Fashion & Textile Research Journal (한국의류산업학회지)

The Society of Fashion and Textile Industry (한국의류산업학회)
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The Development of Enzymatic Mordanting Using Laccase for Phenolic Natural Dye

라카아제 촉매 활성에 의한 홍차 염색물의 매염효과

  • Lee, Hye Bin (Dept. of Textile & Clothing, Sookmyung Women's University) ;
  • Song, Ji Eun (Dept. of Textile & Clothing, Sookmyung Women's University) ;
  • Shim, Eui Jin (Dept. of Textile & Clothing, Sookmyung Women's University) ;
  • Kim, Hye Rim (Dept. of Textile & Clothing, Sookmyung Women's University/Research Institute of ICT Convergence, Sookmyung Women's University)
  • 이혜빈 (숙명여자대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 송지은 (숙명여자대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 심의진 (숙명여자대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 김혜림 (숙명여자대학교 의류학과/숙명여자대학교 ICT융합연구소)
  • Received : 2018.04.16
  • Accepted : 2018.05.10
  • Published : 2018.06.30
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Abstract

This study aim is to provide new coloration method by laccase-catalyzation on natural phenolic dyeing process. In this study, silk was dyed with black tea, which is one of polyphenolic dye, extracted in distilled water. The dyed samples were catalyzed by laccase as the eco-friendly mordanting process. To optimize the conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration, conditions were varied by different mordanting methods (one-bath, two-bath), temperature and treatment time. The dye affinity in terms of the value of K/S, $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V, C was measured by Computer Color Matching System (CCM, CM-2600d, Spectra Magic NX, Korea). The effect of laccase-catalyzed coloration on washing fastness was evaluated and compared with the synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). As the result of color analysis of dyed silk, the optimum conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration were determined to post-mordanting by one-bath at $50^{\circ}C$ for 3 hours. Under the optimum laccase-catalyzed conditions, the dyed silk was shown the color of yellowish-red. After laccase-catalyzed coloration on the dyed silk, the improvement of washing fastness was obtained compared with mordanted silk by synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that the effective enzymatic mordanting method by laccase for phenolic natural dyeing with vivid color and good fastness.

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References

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