The goals of this study are to analyze how fashion professionals' attitudes toward Grunge style have changed since the 1990s and to compare aesthetic features of 1990s Grunge style and the style since 2000. By searching Vogue and Women's Wear Daily articles from 1992 to 2014 according to the keyword "Grunge", three collections from the 1990s and 59 collections since 2000 were selected for analysis. Although Grunge collections of the 1990s were harshly criticized by critics and retailers as ugly, the more recent collections have been highly praised for both design and profitability. The common aesthetic features of Grunge style in the 1990s and beyond include loose silhouettes, mix-and-match layerings, plaid patterns, floral prints, and striped patterns. However, Grunge style since 2000 has new features such as ornate fabrics, handcrafted details, a formal and dressy look, and faux plaid flannel shirts in chiffon or organza. These features give the style a more luxurious, feminine, and refined appearance. The results of this study indicate that Grunge style of the 1990s changed high fashion beauty standards and today's designers and consumers prefer to mix various styles to create new ones. They typically do not consider the original spirit or identities of the varied styles.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.46
no.5
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pp.910-926
/
2022
Suitability for the human body, freedom to move and thermal insulation are important design considerations in military clothing. This study investigates the performance and wearer-satisfaction of the functional inner winter uniform currently used in Korea; it is hoped that our data can inform the development of a future version. Interviews were conducted, in which the participants suggested various improvements. The uniforms were mainly worn for guard duty or as daily attire in cold weather. The participants chose how many layers to wear according to the current situation, rather than sticking to the layering recommended in the manual. Layering choices did not significantly affect combat efficiency but were found to affect wearers' comfort. Wearers' satisfaction was found to depend on the convenience of the clothing, whether it was in the appropriate size, freedom to move and thermal insulation. Also, this study suggests a problem with the current size system, as the analysis of size distribution, across all sizes, the range of current production is insufficient to cover the demand.
In this study, in-depth interviews with Hanbok experts on the development direction of the Hanbok culture industry were performed to listen to professional and future-oriented opinions for the development of Hanbok culture and the Hanbok industry. Interviews were conducted with 12 experts to identify the perception of the Hanbok culture industry and to confirm the possibility of sustainable development of Hanbok as a global culture. First, the results of this study should be preceded by the establishment of concepts such as traditional Hanbok, daily Hanbok, fusion Hanbok, and new Hanbok, and design, education, and government support suitable for each field are required. Second, the responsible craftsmanship of the Hanbok industry, the development of Hanbok design with the aesthetics and convenience of Hanbok designers, multi-dimensional research with high academic use, and systematic support for various Hanbok-related programs and events by the government are needed. Third, the government should promote and actively wear Hanbok through various media to revitalize the Hanbok culture, such as establishing a Hanbok wearing day, reviving etiquette education in school, and providing local-based Hanbok wearing experience education. Fourth, in order to cultivate professional manpower, detailed Hanbok education by field is necessary, and specialized education tools, such as distribution, VMD, and stylist are proposed.
In this study, the concept of play as an entertainment is redefined and applicable method of fashion design as a play are suggested by analyzing the feature of doll's costume design based on the play pattern. In literary study, the role of playing doll Is described and has been examined by the analysis of scholars' opinions. In positive study, the pattern and costume design of sample costume dolls are analyzed using 624 samples of the representative images collected from the literatures and real figures, and they are classified as collection dolls or fashion dolls in order to analyze the feature of fashion design in playing dolls. As a result of the analysis of doll's costumes based on its use, the costumers are divided into a real world costume which is similar to what human wear in daily life and a virtual costume which is used in the movie or play and the costumes only worn by the dolls. The examination of the type of costume worn by dolls, dress is principally dominant costume in collection doll, whereas in fashion doll, dress is still mainly worn but shirt blouse & pants, shirt blouse k skirt, jacket, coat, bathing suit. etc. are shown dispersedly as well. In the costume silhouette of dolls, collection doll uses mostly A line silhouette meanwhile fit and flare is mostly used in the fashion doll but other silhouettes are also relatively shown a lot. In the means of the color of the costume worn by dolls, collection doll is more similar to those in actual fashion design. On the contrary, the color of the costume that fashion doll is put on is more free and more various because the trendy rotors such as green, yellow, purple, etc are used.
The aim of this study was to reveal the modern succession and reinterpretation of brand identity through the case of Balenciaga design presented by Demna Gvasalia through a review of the literature, design collection, and design review analysis. The design collection analysis was conducted from 2016 F/W to 2020 F/W, when Demna Gvasalia commenced responsibility for the Balenciaga collection. A total of 12 articles from overseas fashion magazines and newspapers were analyzed. A modern reinterpretation of Demna Gvasalia's Balenciaga design is as follows. First, he introduced luxury mode to reflect a sense of the times and introduced luxury street looks based on street and sports sensibilities, showing various styles without specific concepts. Second, by sharing universal sensibilities based on pragmatism, he proposed an easy-to-wear outfit for daily life to demonstrate the everydayness of fashion. Third, as a new exploration of traditional structural beauty, the design of Cristobal Balenciaga was reinterpreted through the conversion of items, overlapping outfits, and the introduction of high-tech technologies. Fourth, by taking a conceptual approach to fashion, he has renewed the spirit of experimentation and modernity shown by Cristobal Balenciaga. Fifth, with the presentation of a new icon, new styles of sneakers such as Triple S and Speed Runner are presented as new icons. He inherited the original mindset and creative approach of the house's founder, Cristobal Balenciaga, and reinterpreted it from a contemporary street sensibility and pragmatic perspective.
Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
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v.26
no.7
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pp.1019-1025
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2022
In recent years, the number of foot disease patients due to bad walking habits and living environment is increasing. We examine how patients with mild foot disease according to shoe design characteristics affect satisfaction and purchase intention when purchasing orthopedic shoes. The design characteristics of shoes consisted of functionality, convenience, and aesthetics. It was found that aesthetics had an effect on purchasing orthopedic shoes. Even if the factors of functionality and convenience have little effect, if the aesthetic is high, purchase intention and satisfaction are affected. Various elements are required for design according to the frequency of participation in social activities for each mild foot disease and the purpose of wearing it. It is expected that the development of useful orthopedic shoe designs that patients with mild foot disease can wear in their daily life will lead to practical application and satisfaction by further supplementing the characteristic factors of orthopedic shoe design identified through the research results.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.26
no.3
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pp.99-112
/
2024
This study aims to analyze the characteristics of 'Korean Chic' through the collections of Korean designer Eudon Choi, who has gained prominence in the international fashion market. The term 'Korean Chic' encompasses four main traits: coexistence, eclecticism, practicality, and uniqueness. First, coexistence involves blending masculine and feminine elements as well as traditional and modern aspects. This is evident in Choi's use of strong, angular designs typically seen in menswear alongside soft silhouettes and feminine touches found in womenswear. Additionally, traditional Korean hanbok elements are harmoniously integrated with modern design techniques. Second, eclecticism is seen in the balanced mix of direct and subtle expressions, including the fusion of hanbok details with diverse fashion elements, and the combination of monochromatic and vivid colors. This trait also involves blending strong and delicate features to create a dynamic and versatile look. Third, practicality is a cornerstone of Choi's design philosophy. He emphasizes the importance of creating wearable yet innovative pieces that are suitable for daily wear. His collections feature practical materials and items that prioritize comfort without compromising creativity. Last, unique is highlighted through hidden details and unexpected design elements. Choi often incorporates surprising prints or decorations that are not immediately visible, adding an element of discovery and delight for the wearer. This can include witty combinations of traditional and contemporary elements, as well as formal and casual styles. Through study aims to shed light on the design identity of Korean fashion designers by examining the characteristics of Korean Chic in Eudon Choi's work. It also calls for further research on other Korean designers to enhance the understanding and global recognition of Korean fashion's unique aesthetic and growing influence in the international fashion scene.
Kim, Soon Young;Choo, Ho Jung;Nam, Yun Ja;Son, Jin Ah
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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v.62
no.7
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pp.117-132
/
2012
This study explored public awareness and donning practices of traditional and religious dresses among Indonesian Muslim. The relevant literature was reviewed first, and in-depth interviews and survey were followed to achieve the purpose of the study. Sarung and Kain Panjang are the most representative unisex traditional clothing of Indonesia. Traditional male dresses include Kemeja Batik, Beskap, Peci(Kopiah) and Blangkon. Traditional female dresses include Kebaya, Baju Kurung, Baju Bodo, Kemben, Rok Batik and Slendang. Baju Koko, Sarung and Peci(Kopiah) are the most well-known Muslim male dress items. Muslim female dresses are more diverse than men's. For traditional and religious dresses, which were identified from literature study, public awareness and donning practices were examined with survey data. Indonesian people consider Kebaya, Sarung, and Batik as the most important traditional dresses which convey national identity. Peci(Kopiah), Baju koko, and Jilbab(Kerudung) are highly mentioned as the representatives of Muslim dresses. Indonesian Muslims report that they own these representative dresses commonly. Peci and Sarung are included both in religious and traditional dresses, demonstrating that the two items are the representative crossovers of their religion and the tradition of the country. For both traditional and Muslim dresses, Indonesian people think that aesthetics and traditional values are more relevant than practical value. Lastly, it is found that traditional dresses are parts of the daily wear of Indonesian people from the fact that they wear traditional dresses more than once a week.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.35
no.3
/
pp.292-303
/
2011
This research suggested a draft proposal for a smart jacket design, which has applied wearable technologies to provide convenience in daily life. The smart jacket combined with a vest was the casual item for autumn and winter. The heating device was composed of the heating element, battery, controller, electric wire, connector, switch, and charger. A stable electronic conductor fiber of good heating effect with a flexible zigzag form has been selected for the heating element. The lighting device has been made in a way that attaches the LED and its power controller in the same mechanical device. As the result of the wearing test, the heating effect turned out to be effective in the order of: back, both the back and abdomen and only the abdomen. When wearing a smart jacket, the back and abdomen have been selected as favorable body parts for heating. Pockets and hems are selected as the adequate place to attach the LED lighting, and the brightness of LED lighting has turned out to be suitable and useful. Based on the test results, the first draft proposal has attached the heating element only in the back and its controller located in the inside pocket of the vest. In addition, the LED has been attached to the front pocket of the jacket. As to the second draft proposal, heating elements have been placed in the back and the abdomen. Each controller for the heating elements has been placed in the front and inside pocket of vest, and the LED lighting has been attached to the hem of the jacket. The smart jacket combined with a wearable device was assessed by functioning categories. The user showed a high satisfaction in the heating and illuminating function of a smart jacket.
Objective: Many caregivers often carry infants using baby carriers until they are approximately 36 months old. The purpose of this study was to compare the muscular activity of the trunk and lower leg muscles during trunk flexion-extension movements in correspondence to various wearing methods of a baby carrier blanket. Design: Cross-sectional study. Methods: Sixteen healthy adult women were to wear baby carrier blankets in five different ways in terms of direction and height, followed by flexion-extension of the trunk. Erector spinae (ES), rectus abdominis, rectus femoris (RF), biceps femoris (BF) muscle activities and triaxial acceleration of trunk were investigated. Results: The front-wearing method of the baby carrier blanket increased the muscular activity of the ES muscle, and wearing the baby carrier blanket at waist height in the same direction was significantly higher than wearing it at pelvic height (p<0.05). As the angle of flexion increased during trunk flexion-extension, the muscle activity of the ES, BF, and the RF increased. There was a greater increase in muscle activity of the ES and the BF during extension compared to flexion (p<0.05). Conclusions: If it is difficult to wear a baby carrier blanket due to lumbar pain, it is recommended to lower the wearing height of the baby carrier to the pelvic level so that the external load can be transferred to the lower extremity. In addition, it appears to be necessary to hold the baby and distribute the load onto the waist through proper body control when performing flexion-extension movements of the trunk. More objective and scientific research that includes various daily tasks and evaluation methods are needed.
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