Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.29049/rjcc.2021.29.2.185

Modern reinterpretation and succession of Balenciaga design by Demna Gvasalia  

Kim, Jiyoung (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Chungbuk National University)
An, Hyosun (Dept. of Fashion Industry, Ewha Womans University)
Publication Information
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture / v.29, no.2, 2021 , pp. 185-203 More about this Journal
Abstract
The aim of this study was to reveal the modern succession and reinterpretation of brand identity through the case of Balenciaga design presented by Demna Gvasalia through a review of the literature, design collection, and design review analysis. The design collection analysis was conducted from 2016 F/W to 2020 F/W, when Demna Gvasalia commenced responsibility for the Balenciaga collection. A total of 12 articles from overseas fashion magazines and newspapers were analyzed. A modern reinterpretation of Demna Gvasalia's Balenciaga design is as follows. First, he introduced luxury mode to reflect a sense of the times and introduced luxury street looks based on street and sports sensibilities, showing various styles without specific concepts. Second, by sharing universal sensibilities based on pragmatism, he proposed an easy-to-wear outfit for daily life to demonstrate the everydayness of fashion. Third, as a new exploration of traditional structural beauty, the design of Cristobal Balenciaga was reinterpreted through the conversion of items, overlapping outfits, and the introduction of high-tech technologies. Fourth, by taking a conceptual approach to fashion, he has renewed the spirit of experimentation and modernity shown by Cristobal Balenciaga. Fifth, with the presentation of a new icon, new styles of sneakers such as Triple S and Speed Runner are presented as new icons. He inherited the original mindset and creative approach of the house's founder, Cristobal Balenciaga, and reinterpreted it from a contemporary street sensibility and pragmatic perspective.
Keywords
Cristobal Balenciaga; Demna Gvasalia; fashion house; creative director;
Citations & Related Records
연도 인용수 순위
  • Reference
1 Hutton, B. (2020, January 20). Balenciaga is returning to haute couture. Anothermagazine. Retrieved May 20, 2020, from https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/12189/balenciaga-will-return-to-haute-couture-half-a-century-after-cristobal
2 Hargrove, C. (2019, February 27). Balenciaga's Demna Gvasalia: I didn't start appropriation. Refinery 29. Retrieved July 20, 2020, from https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2019/02/225425/demna-gvasalia-balenciaga-vetements-designer-appropriation-interview
3 Her, Y. S., & Chun, J. H. (2017). Analysis on magazine advertisements of fashion brands which replaced creative directors -Focused on 'Saint Laurent', 'Louis Vuitton', and 'Gucci'. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 19(5), 547-558. doi: 10.5805/SFTI.2017.19.5.547   DOI
4 Kim, Y. E. (2019, June 4). The reason why fashion industry risks its life on sneakers. Hankyung-business. Retrieved July 20, 2020, from https://news.naver.com/main/read.nhn?mode=LSD&mid=sec&sid1=101&oid=050&aid=0000050553
5 Kwak, H. Y. (2009). A study on the fashion design of Balenciaga. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
6 Solomatina, I. (2016, November 30). Why is Demna such a hit at Balenciaga. Sleekmagazine. Retrieved June 20, 2020, from https://www.sleek-mag.com/article/balenciaga-demna-gvasalia/
7 V & A Museum. (2017, May 27). Learning from 'the master': Balenciaga revealed. Retrieved May 6, 2020, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qYEUlq7wLI
8 V & A. (n.d.). Introducing Cristobal Balenciaga. V & A online. Retrieved May 20, 2020, from https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/introducing-cristobal-balenciaga
9 Mower, S. (2018, October 12). Demna Gvasalia. Vogue Korea. Retrieved May 20, 2020, from http://www.vogue.co.kr/2018/10/12/%EB%8E%80%EB%82%98-%EB%B0%94%EC%9E%98%EB%A6%AC%EC%95%84/
10 Rhy, H. (2018, August 21). 류현의 패션디자이너 스토리, 뎀나 바잘리아 [Fashion designer story of Rhy Hyun, Demna Gvasalia]. Yeongnamilbo. Retrieved Jun 1, 2020, from https://m.yeongnam.com/view.php?key=20180921.010400751560001
11 McDonald, S. (2018, December 13). The Balenciaga triple S is 2018's hottest sneaker, according to Lyst. Footwear News. Retrieved June 20, 2020, from https://footwearnews.com/2018/focus/sneakers/hottest-sneaker-2018-balenciaga-triple-s-1202717422/
12 Vogue. (n.d.f). Balenciaga 2018 F/W collection. Retrieved March 2, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/balenciaga/slideshow/collection#15
13 Vogue. (n.d.b). Balenciaga 2017 S/S collection. Retrieved March 2, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/balenciaga/slideshow/collection#21
14 Vogue. (n.d.c). Balenciaga 2017 F/W collection. Retrieved March 2, 2021, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2017/03/06/fall-2017-balenciaga/#0:42
15 Vogue. (n.d.e). Balenciaga 2018 S/S menswear collection. Retrieved March 2, 2021, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2017/06/22/menswear-spring-2018-balenciaga/#0:18
16 Vogue. (n.d.h). Balenciaga 2020 F/W menswear collection. Retrieved March 2, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/balenciaga/slideshow/collection#52
17 Vogue. (n.d.j). Balenciaga 2020 F/W collection. Retrieved July 7, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2020/03/10/ready-to-wear-2020-fw-balenciaga/#0:73
18 Vogue. (n.d.l). Balenciaga 2020 S/S collection. Retrieved July 7, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2019/09/30/spring-2020-ready-to-wear-balenciaga/#0:0
19 Vogue. (n.d.m). Balenciaga 2020 S/S collection. Retrieved December 20, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2019/09/30/spring-2020-ready-to-wear-balenciaga/#0:51
20 Cho, Y. J. (2019, September 30). "Balenciaga 2020 SS collection talks of clothing and society". Hypebeast. Retrieved December 20, 2020, from https://hypebeast.kr/2019/9/balenciaga-spring-summer-2020-collection-runway-show-paris-fashion-week
21 Kim, S. E., & Ha, J. S. (2016). A study on aesthetic values of neodeconstructive fashion -Focused on Vetments, Marques' Almeida, Jacquemus-. Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion Design, 16(4), 129-150. doi:10.18652/2016.16.4.8   DOI
22 Jo, E. A., & Park, J. H. (2017). Influences of post-Soviet in fashion designer Demna Gvasalia's works. Journal of Fashion Design, 17(1), 137-153. doi:10.18652/2017.17.1.9   DOI
23 Kering. (n.d.). "Demna Gvasalia". Retrieved July 20, 2020, from https://www.kering.com/en/houses/couture-and-leather-goods/balenciaga/demna-gvasalia/
24 Kim, K. S., & Park, J. H. (2014). Taste of Spain in designs by Cristobal Balenciaga. Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion Design, 14(2), 1-19.
25 Vogue. (n.d.c). Balenciaga 2017 F/W collection. Retrieved March 2, 2021, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2017/03/06/fall-2017-balenciaga/#0:42
26 Balenciaga. (n.d.b). Triple S trainer. Retrieved December 20, 2020, from https://www.balenciaga.com/kr/triple-s-shoes_cod11534885nb.html#/Search/Index
27 Biondi, A. (2020, January 20). Why Balenciaga sees opportunity in couture. Vogue Business. Retrieved July 20, 2020, from https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/balenciaga-return-couture-demna-gvasalia
28 Blanks, T. (n.d.). What would Cristobal Balenciaga make of what Demna Gvasalia has made of Cristobal Balenciaga? Re-edition Magazine. Retrieved July 20, 2020, from https://www.reeditionmagazine.com/latest/timblanksdemnagvasalia
29 Vogue. (n.d.o). Balenciaga 2016 F/W collection. Retrieved July 5, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/03/07/ready-to-wear-2016-fall-balenciaga-collection-2/#0:13
30 Vogue. (n.d.n). Balenciaga 2020 F/W collection. Retrieved July 20, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2020/03/10/ready-to-wear-2020-fw-balenciaga/#0:66
31 Vogue. (n.d.p). Balenciaga 2016 F/W collection. Retrieved July 20, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/03/07/ready-to-wear-2016-fall-balenciaga-collection-2/#0:0
32 Vogue. (n.d.q). Balenciaga 2017 F/W collection. Retrieved December 20, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2017/03/06/fall-2017-balenciaga/#0:20
33 Vogue. (n.d.r). Balenciaga 2018 S/S collection. Retrieved December 20, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2017/10/02/spring-2018-balenciaga/#0:26
34 Vogue. (n.d.s). Balenciaga 2018 F/W collection. Retrieved July 20, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2018/03/04/ready-to-wear-2018-fw-balenciaga/#0:71
35 Vogue. (n.d.t). Balenciaga 2016 F/W collection. Retrieved July 20, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/03/07/ready-to-wear-2016-fall-balenciaga-collection-2/#0:43
36 Vogue. (n.d.k). Balenciaga 2019 F/W collection. Retrieved July 7, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2019/03/28/ready-to-wear-2019-fw-balenciaga-2/#0:22
37 Cho, H. A., & Kim, Y. I. (2019). Expressive characteristics of everydayness in hyperrealism art and fashion -Focused on Duane Hanson and Vetements-. Journal of Fashion Design, 19(3), 55-72. doi:10.18652/2019.19.3.4   DOI
38 Givhan, R. (2019, April 24). Balenciaga's Demna Gvasalia is changing what we consider fashion. The Telegraph. Retrieved June 20, 2020, from https://www.thetelegraph.com/lifestyle/article/Balenciaga-s-Demna-Gvasalia-is-changing-what-we-13791553.php
39 Golbin, P. (2006). Balenciaga Paris. London: Thames & Hudson.
40 Kim, S. N. (2019). The value of the Balenciaga inherited by experimental spirit. Opinion News. Retrieved June 20, 2020, from http://www.opinionnews.co.kr/news/articleView.html?idxno=25676
41 Kim, S. Y. (2007). The aesthetic characteristics of Balenciaga designed by Nicolas Ghesquiere. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 57(5), 45-57. doi:10.18208/ksdc.2016.22.3.67
42 Lin, A. (2017, May 25). Balenciaga: Shaping fashion -From Cristobal Balenciaga to Demna Gvasalia. Anniversary Magazine. Retrieved July 20, 2020, from https://www.anniversary-magazine.com/all/balenciaga-shaping-fashion-from-cristobal-balenciaga-to-demna-gvasalia
43 Menkes, S. (2011, September 29). Breaking news at Balenciaga. New York Times. Retrieved July 20, 2020, from https://www.nytimes.com/2011/09/30/fashion/30iht-rstyle30.html
44 Balenciaga. (n.d.c). Everyday camera bag. Retrieved December 3, 2020, from https://www.balenciaga.com/Item/Index?cod10=45381462fn&siteCode=BALENCIAGA_KR
45 Ahmed, O. (2017, May 18). The hidden links between Cristobal Balenciaga and Demna Gvasalia. Business of Fashion. Retrieved May 20, 2020, from https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/demna-gvasalia-balenciaga-cristobal-hidden-links
46 Amed, I. (2016, February 5). Demna Gvasalia reveals Vetements' plan to disrupt the fashion system. Business of Fashion. Retrieved May 20, 2020, from https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/demna-gvasalia-reveals-vetements-plan-to-disrupt-the-fashion-system
47 Balenciaga. (n.d.a). Speed sneakers. Retrieved December 3, 2020, from https://www.balenciaga.com/Item/Index?cod10=11603778vm&siteCode=BALENCIAGA_KR
48 Sunnucks, J. (2017, May 26). Breaking down Balenciaga, era by influential era. Dazeddigital. Retrieved July 20, 2020, from https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/36080/1/balenciaga-designers-nicolas-ghesquiere-alexander-wang-demna-gvasalia
49 Miller, L. E. (2007). Balenciaga Paris. London: V & A Publication.
50 Moat, H. (n.d.). Nicolas Ghesquiere: A Balenciaga legacy. Farfetch. Retrieved June 20, 2020, from https://www.farfetch.com/uk/editorial/nicolas-ghesquiere-a-balenciaga-legacy.aspx
51 Vogue. (n.d.a). Balenciaga 2016 F/W collection. Retrieved March 2, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/balenciaga/slideshow/collection#9
52 Vogue. (n.d.g). Balenciaga 2019 S/S collection. Retrieved March 2, 2021, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2018/10/11/ready-to-wear-2019-ss-balenciaga/#0:75
53 Gu, H. N. (2016). Love and war of fashion house and creative director. Fashion Seoul. Retrieved June 3, 2020, https://www.fashionseoul.com/114534/amp
54 Vogue. (n.d.i). Balenciaga 2018 F/W collection. Retrieved July 7, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2018/03/04/ready-to-wear-2018-fw-balenciaga/#0:54
55 Persson, L. (2016, March 5). Cristobal Balenciaga and Demna Gvasalia have more in common than you think. Vogue. Retrieved July 20, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/article/designers-cristobal-balenciaga-demna-gvasalia-similarities