• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.217-244
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• 1997

This study is about the Korean Jockey's uniform, etc. and horse riding costume as the traditional riding culture grows. I studied informations from the Korea Racing Association's equestrian park, equine museum and Seoul Racecourse Trainers & Jockey's Association. The international regulations of riding costume are compared with Korean regulations, and I consulted some reference books, materials of sports wear and catalogues of some brands regarding horse equipment. The contents includes ; 1. Analysis of informations about horse racing 2. Study of racing, for detail comparative analysis on the following aspects ; -Symbolism, riding costume of jockey, that is, color·pattern·and some formal designs. 3. Suggestion for reasonable and fashionable riding costumes. In the aspects of design, there have not been any historical records, and material adjustments about riding costume in Korea. Therefore we should make more efforts to do developing our traditional costume culture. The result o this study is as follows ; 1. Riding is the sport of etiquette and manners. 2. Most of riding wears are the casual wear centered foreign licenced brands. 3. Study and investment upon specialized material development and processing technology are in demand 4. The need of the consumers are to be satisfied by the quality improvement of the native products design. In addition, we perform to horse racing which is fine play and leisure sports in current society. The horse riding will be a popular sports such as golf, wind surfing, skiing, etc. with the period including lots of kinds of leisure.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.62-71
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• 2008

Costume elements are closely related with human living environment and also play an important role in the costume patterns. The East and the West have influenced and adopted each other's culture through mutual trade, which are well reflected in costume patterns and textile patterns. These days world wide fashion shows the designs applying costume details of the East and the West, which is much affected by the orientalism. The purpose of this study is to compare the sleeve patterns which take an important part in women's costume design of the Joseon Dynasty and the European Monarchy in the 16th century. Korean women's costume showed sleeves in rectangular shape with same width and long length, together with cuffs. Later they changed to diagonal shape of getting narrower toward the wrist. Western women's costume showed sleeves with puff and slash patterns. Then they were classified into French, British and Spanish styles which were getting narrower toward the wrist. Later they adopted the shape of leg of mutton which was puffed in middle and narrower toward the wrist. I n Korea and Europe, they showed respective changes in sleeve patterns, but also similarity of getting narrower toward the wrist. The East and the West are now exchanging their culture in every aspect such as politics, economics and social matters. Costume fashion is not an exception. The characteristic designs of traditional costumes are shown on global fashion, which is influenced by the orientalism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.7
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• pp.86-99
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• 2009

The audience of the performing arts enacted on the stage appreciate acting of the characters in a play to understand its plot, identify with the characters, and comprehend the message and subject matters of the play. Stage make-up in particular should assist audience in comprehending the story without overpowering or distracting the script. Stage make-up is a crucial means to visualize occupation, class, personality, and age of the characters. Thus it is an essential means in producing a high quality performance. The aim of the study is to examine character-emphasis make-up for a play by reviewing theories on the concepts and methods of the stage make-up. The methodology of the study was to analyze character make-up of the adopted play The Madwoman of Chaillot (La Folle de Chaillot) translated from the original French, as a case study. The technique and features of the character make-up of the play were examined, and functions of each factor of the character make-up depending on a role were also examined. The results of the study are as follows. The stage make-up for creating and expressing a distinctive personality of the characters in a play must integrate environmental factors external to a performance such as lighting and scale of a venue. Moreover the stage make-up must adopt and reconstruct internal factors of the play such as interpretation of the original work, subject matters, interpretation of the script, character analysis based on the discussion with a director, and design setting.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.945-956
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• 2011

The purpose for this paper is to categorize and analyze the aesthetic characteristics of graphic factors in contemporary fashion design by media source. Focused on play-instinct visual expression in contemporary fashion design and adopted media source following the way of communication design. A variety of literatures and online sites for graphic factors in contemporary fashion was studied. The standard of media source is classified as graphic media-source: photography media-source, typography media-source, illustration media-source. With this standard, expressed ways are as followings. First, graphic media-source in play-instinct expressional fashion design is mostly borrowing existed character or using designer's brand logo. Second, photography media-source in play-instinct expressional fashion design is placed photograph of social issued people in front of shirt. Third, typography media-source in play-instinct expressional contemporary fashion design is mostly expressed social messages or designer's name in brand. Fourth, illustration media-source is the best way to express play-instinct visual expression. Based on these, aesthetic characteristics of graphic factor in contemporary fashion by media source are classified as three: social words, playfulness and information transference. Frequency ratio using media source per aesthetic characteristics is different and these are able to categorize expression way and image feature. In conclusion, expressional way of graphic factors in contemporary fashion design became diverse as social and cultural changing. Frequency of graphic factor use in contemporary fashion is increased than before. This paper suggested that fashion design is one of the way of communicating with people and should be analyzed graphic factors in contemporary fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.67-80
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• 1998

Being located in the east of the Mediterranean Sea, Cyprus used to play a bridge role of cultural exchanges between the East and the West during period of being occupied. As a consequence the fact that the style of costume might be changed at certain levels during the time is broadly accepted. Basic structure of Cypriot men's clothes during the late of the 19th century to the middle of 20th century is composed of\circled1 baggy trousers(vraka) \circled2 shirt(chemise) \circled3 jacket(ziboune/zibouna) \circled4 waistcoat(yilekko) \circled5 headdress(fez, kourouklin) \circled6 accessories. General composition of women's wear is \circled1 pantaloons(vrandzin) \circled2 shift(poukamiso) \circled3 outer garment(sayia, foustani, Amalia, costume) \circled4 waist kerchief(mandili tis koxas)\circled5 boots(podines)/pumps(goves) \circled6 scarves and accessories. As reviewed above, although men's clothes are still worn on a day to day basis, women's wear continues to exist only for festivals or as a tourist attraction. It was understood that this was an accepted consequence of 20th century modernization and reformation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.79-94
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• 2004

The main purpose of this study is to discribe the transfiguration process and the symbols of theatrical costume of Sandai masque(산대놀이) during the Choson Dynasty. Sandai masque as a popular play is a very important form in the history of the Korean theatre. Furthermore in order to analyze the mutual relationship and difference between in the early and later Chosen Dynasty, Narye has is stressed deeply a national amusement event. In the early years of Choson Dynasty, non-official culture such as outside of Seoul and Seoul were subject to the official culture of the Court. In the late years, actors become more and more libral, separating themselves from the systemical restriction. The main reason for this is the growth of capitals in private sectors as well as the growth in demand for entertainment among private citizens. On these backgrounds, the transfiguration process of Sandai masque have changed the treatrical costume. The treatrical costume carries symbolic meaning to the obserber. The value of symbol changes as the time passes, overtime thereby altering its meaning as well. The caracters and plots change inevitably over years but the basic theme remains. The symbols of theatrical costume of Sandai masque are mainly focused on three subjects: first, the entrance of a dragon and tiger originated in the exorcism for good harvest; second, color symbolism expressed in the confrontation between red and black; and third, associate characteristics of dress forms related to regoinal classification of the mask dance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.193-202
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• 2012

With entering the 21st century, modern people's dark inside and panic are emerging as the talking point on the theater stage. Even in the field of stage costume, the necessity of a research is being demanded through analyzing on psychological anguish and structure of characters. Accordingly, this study aims to allow the stage costume design to be expressed a human being's Doppelg$\ddot{a}$nger Image, which was elicited through analyzing a work of the play titled Le Grand C$\acute{e}$r$\acute{e}$monial by a playwriter Fernando Arrabal, who draws the conflictory and contradictory duplicity, which positions in a human being's deep inside by having chaos as catalyst. A research subject is 'Le Grand C$\acute{e}$r$\acute{e}$monial,' which was staged as the winter performance in commemoration of the 50th anniversary for the foundation of Dept. of Theater, Chung-Ang Univ. in November 2009. Psychology of characters in a play, which varies dimensionally, could be delivered, as nonverbal element called costume, by applying costume design of Cavanoza, Syl, Nice to Doppelg$\ddot{a}$nger Image such as Innocence vs Cruelty, Purity vs Superficiality and Restraint vs Freedom, which were elicited through analyzing characters. Through this study, the costume, which was expressed by visualizing a human being's Doppelg$\ddot{a}$nger Image, could be known to function as important dramatic factor of allowing character's psychology to be understood through costume as well as functioning as visual and sensible language, which is important for communication with the audience. A research on costume design, which reflects a character's complex inside, is expected to be likely continued through in-depth analysis on a playwriter's intention and on the appearing characters at the current point of time when an active research is being performed on stage costume in the wake of this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.72-87
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• 2011

The 21st century are seeing a large number of performing arts, and one of them, opera is evolving, transforming itself as one of total arts. Besides, the costume in performing art which play a major role in opera's visual impact, characterize figures, set the tone for performance and greatly contribute to the perfection of the stage. Under these circumstances, the study developed designs of stage costumes and built a full-scale production of the Magic Flute, one of three greatest Mozart operas. The opera based on a fiction, is still popular today since it is a fantastic fairy tale introducing moral and ethical lessons. The play's background itself is Egypt. But due to its fairy-take-like storyline, it has been performed focusing on various concepts rather than on costumes prepared through background research. As such, this study conducted research on designs of stage costumes that contains the element of Egypt and also take athleticism and comfort into consideration. The results derived from the study were as follows. First, traditional dresses of ancient Egypt were used as a basis while adding some modem touch in terms of forms or colors, which resulted in a new design. Second, a variety of images were captured using textures and colors that fit the characteristics of attributes of the figures. Third painting techniques were used to help highlight the symbolic image of Egypt-simple, not heavy and extravagant-with fairy-tale-like fantasy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.48
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• pp.83-100
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• 1999

Articles from leading daily newspapers dealing with costumes analyzed here dating back to oughly one year before the I.M.F. system came into place in korea. The values and esthetic consciousness of that period were studied through fashion. The major conclusions of the study are as follows: 1. The values of exhibition conformity and extravagance were emphasized. 2. The beauty of play the beauty of the extraordinary and the beauty of splendour were expressed as the esthetic consciousness 3. Preference of young people toward expensive high-grade and foreign-made brands was excessive Adults have to guide the young not to overconsume. Development of a sounder culture of clothing is needed for the establishment of economic prosperity for the nation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.147-158
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• 1999

This study focused on situational simularity of psychedelic expressed in the mid-1960s with culture including costume in the end of 20th century. So this study is composed of psychedelic concept and the comparision of temporal background and general characteristics of psychedelia in the 1960s and 1990s and relationship with Art-Nouveau which has originated psychedelia and psycheelic image including mysticism play illusionism and narcissism. The New psychedelic revival of the early 1980s came at a time when as in the mid-1960s the world's attentions were firmly focused on British youth. The same could be said of the mid-1990s when 'BriPop' once again has international appeal and the result has been a kind of New New Psychedelic revival with all manner of British youth styles from the 1960s blended together. The swirling patterns hallucinogenic colors and space-aged designs of the psychedelics have become a symbolic representation of cocktail of youth sex and optimism