• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.47-56
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• 2001

A numerical model for practical use based on the 1-line theory is presented to simulate shoreline changes due to construction of offshore structures. The shoreline change model calculates the longshore sediment transport rate using breaking waves. Before the shoreline change model execution, a wave model, adopting the modified Boussinesq equation including the breaking parameters and bottom friction term, was used to provide the longshore distribution of the breaking waves. The contents of present model are outlined first. Then to examine the characteristics of this model, the effects of the parameters contained in this model are clarified through the calculations of shoreline changes for simple cases. Finally, as the guides for practical application of this model, several comments are made on the parameters used in the model, such as transport parameter, average beach slope, breaking height variation alongshore, depth of closure, etc. with the presentation of typical examples of 3-dimensional movable bed experimental results for application of this model. Here, beach change behind the offshore structures is represented by the movement of the shoreline position. Analysis gives that the transport parameters should be taken as site specific parameters in terms of time scale for the shoreline change and adjusted to achieve the best agreement between the calculated and the observed near the structures.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.39-50
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• 2018

In this study, the nonlinear interaction of irregular waves with wave breaking and currents around permeable submerged breakwater was investigated with the aid of olaFlow model which is open source CFD software published under the GPL license. The irregular wave performance of olaFlow applied in this study was verified by comparing and evaluating the target frequency spectrum and the generated frequency spectrum for applicability to irregular waves. Based on the applicability of this numerical model to irregular wave fields, in the coexistence fields of irregular waves and currents, the characteristics of wave height, frequency spectrum, breaking waves, averaged velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around porous submerged breakwater with the respect to the beach type and current direction versus wave propagation were carefully investigated. The numerical results revealed that the shape of wave breaking on the crown of the submerged breakwater and the formation of the mean flow velocity around the structure depend greatly on the current directions and the type of the beach. In addition, it was found that the wave height fluctuation due to the current direction with respect to the wave propagation is closely related to the turbulent kinetic energy.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.148-156
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• 2008

WAM(WAve Model), deep water wave model has been extended to the region of shallow water, incorporating wave breaking, and triad wave interaction. To verify this model, two numerical simulations for hydraulic experiments of Chawla et al.(1998) and Beji and Battjes(1993) are performed. The computed results show good agreements with measured ones. To identify its applicability to real sea, it is applied to storm wave modelling for typhoon Maemi. Numerical results compared with measured ones at Geoje, Busan and Ulsan show reasonable wave height estimations.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.204-210
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• 1998

This paper presents the development of the probability density function applicable for wave heights (peak-to-trough excursions) in finite water depth including shallow water depth. The probability distribution applicable to wave heights of a non-Gaussian random process is derived based on the concept of the maximum entropy method. When wave heights are limited by breaking wave heights (or water depth) and only first and second moments of wave heights are given, the probability density function developed is closed form and expressed in terms of wave parameters such as $H_m$(mean wave height), $H_{rms}$(root-mean-square wave height), $H_b$(breaking wave height). When higher than third moment of wave heights are given, it is necessary to solve the system of nonlinear integral equations numerically using Newton-Raphson method to obtain the parameters of probability density function which is maximizing the entropy function. The probability density function thusly derived agrees very well with the histogram of wave heights in finite water depth obtained during storm. The probability density function of wave heights developed using maximum entropy method appears to be useful in estimating extreme values and statistical properties of wave heights for the design of coastal structures.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.19-26
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• 2000

A numerical model is applied for predicting two-dimensional beach and dune erosion during severe storms. The model uses equation of sediment continuity and dynamic equation, governing the on-offshore sediment transport due to a disequilibrium of wave energy dissipation. And the model also uses sediment transport rate parameter K from dimensional analysis instead of that recommended by Kriebel. During a storm, a beach profile evolves to a form where the depth at the surf zone is related to the distance seaward of the waterline. In general, the erosion in the beach profile is found to be sensitive to equilibrium profile parameter, sediment transport rate parameter, storm surge level and breaking wave height.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2004.11a
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• pp.102-107
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• 2004

New designed floating breakwater made of Polyethelener with considering the introduction of new material for being harmony with environment and stability of the floater is developed for a marine ranching. Model experiment in order to test its capability is performed for the regular and irregular waves in ocean engineering basin. Good capability to break the incident wave within the 6 second of period and 1 m of height is shown. Breaking efficiency for long period wave is not so good in regular and irregular wave. The results of this study will contribute to the design and construction of the floating breakwater.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.59-62
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• 1992

Empirical criteria for wave breaking on the coastal slope are substantiated theoretically for complex-shape basins. The theory developed here is a generalization of Carrier-Greenspan theory for a plane beach. The place and role of the linear theory for the description of run-up problem is discussed. The height of run-up on the beach of the basins with a “parabolic” profile is calculated for originally monochromatic wave.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.75-82
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• 1990

A Wave transformation including wave breaking in shallow water region is a non-linear and discontinuous Phenomenon. Therefore, a so-called individual wave analysis (or a wave by wave analysis) rather than spectral approach seems to be adequate to investigate the wave transformation in such regions. In this study, a theoretical joint distribution of wave height, period and wave direction of zero-down crossing waves, which is required in the individual wave analysis in the shallow water region, is derived based on the hypothesis that sea surface is a Gaussian stochastic process and that a band-width of energy spectra is sufficiently narrow. The derived i oint distribution is found to be an effective measure to investigate characteristics of three-dimensional random wave field in shallow water through field measurements.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.1B
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• pp.115-123
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• 2008

In the present study, a three dimensional hydrodynamic characteristics around the fully submerged dual breakwaters with a sand beach has been investigated numerically using a 3-D numerical scheme, which can determine the eddy viscosity with LES turbulence model and is able to consider wave-structure-seabed interaction in 3-dimensional wave field (LES-WASS-3D), recently developed by Hur and Lee (2007). Based on the numerical experiments, strong vortices can be generated fore and aft edges of the structures, and propagate lee sides. Thus relatively large circulation flows are occurred around submerged breakwaters. The 3-D flow hydrodynamic characteristics have been examined by mean flows and mean vortices for various x-y, x-z sections and y-z layers. Wave height distribution and wave set-up around and over submerged breakwaters, and breaking point migration toward shore side is discussed in detail.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.87-94
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• 1996

Random wave breaking is one of the most important phenomena in coastal engineering. For two and half decades, various models have been proposed to predict wave height variations in the surf zone. However, some models are applicable to plane beaches only, some requires clumsy computation for a joint probability density of wave heights and periods, and some others need calibration with individual wave data. The present study aims at formulating a model simple enough but reasonably accurate. The merits of the present model are as follows: It is applicable to any shapes of bottom profiles; It requires the input data of incident wave heights and periods only without necessity of coefficient calibration with field data; and its computation time is minimal because it deals with representative waves directly.