• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.391-406
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to utilize of apparel CAD System by the classification of the basic pattern block in pattern making process. Gerber AM-300 CAD System was used for this study. The results form this study were as follows; 1. New shirts block were developed. 2. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new shirts block for women by comparing it with Japanese Bunka shirts blouse pattern making method. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 20 items on the questionnaire, the 19 items showed significant difference(${\alpha}{\leq}0.01$)between the two, with the new shirts block having higher scores. 3. A basic pattern block was selected by the design sketch. 4. P/D/S were enabled to be constructed directly from a block pattern. The drawing, deletion. duplication, and movement of all points and lines in the pattern might be made freely, and the split, pivot, and movement of the pattern, and the attachment of two patterns were possible. 5. Automatic grading of finished pattern have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of block pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.12
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• pp.177-188
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fitness according to drafting method of the block patterns for women in Korea. The major findings of this study are as follows: 1. According to each sensory test of the frontal view, back view, side view and silhouette Block Pattern I is the best of them in summation of the sensory tests score. Block, Pattern D and I have good shape too. However the best block Pattern D shows good score in evaluation of overall fitness and silhouette. 2. Most of block patterns, which show high scores in sensory tests, are the Compromise Method taking merits of the Proportional Method and Short Measure Method among the Pattern Drafting Methods. Box-shape patterns show low score in the sensory tests. 3. Regarding to the number of measurement, the patterns of the Compromise Method using 6-8 measurements seem to be optimal. In degree of fitness, loose fit type basic patterns are better than other patterns from a viewpoint of the total satisfaction.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.379-390
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fitness according to drafting method of the block patterns for women in Korea. The major findings of this study are as follows: 1. According to comparative analysis of required measurements, two measurements of back length and bust girth are used in Proportional Drafting Method (Munhwa). In case of Compromise Drafting Methods are used across chest, across back, bust length, bust width, full length in front, across shoulder and shoulder length in addition to back length and bust girth. The type of Armstrong as a Short Measure Drafting Method uses 10 measurements for the drafting the bodice. 2. While Esmod block pattern arid Armstrong's block pattern are the lightest in full width and other widths. Rasara block pattern is the most ample. In Lee, Myung-hee's block pattern and Lee, Hyung-sook's block pattern, amounts of drooping are decided $3{\sim}4cm$, but drooping amounts of other block patterns are decided corresponding to real measurements. While cap height in Esmod and Armstrong's sleeve patterns are directly measured Armhole length of the block pattern, cap height of other sleeve patterns are used armhole depth and cap height length as well as armhole length. 3. When analyzing to indirect measurements, Esmod block pattern shows the least different between full length of block pattern and that of body form. Munhwa block pattern and Kim, Hyosook's block pattern are mostly same to body form back length. However all of the block patterns are sheller than body form length. In case of Suh, Wansuk's block pattern, across back and across chest are same size, but other block patterns show difference between across back and across chest. Most block patterns' neck width in front and bach bodice are almost same. Front neck width is generally bigger than back neck width in some cases.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.85-91
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• 2005

To understand the basic relationship between 3D curved surface model and 2D pattern, simplified torso model was generated by commercial CAD program (IDEAS). 3D torso model was then divided into different blocks and unfolded into a flat pattern as in ordinary works of clothing item design. As results, 2D pattern development of different part of 3D torso model was attempted and analyzed mathematically. It was found that different height, radius and tangent slope of 3D blocks resulted in different 2D pattern. The relationships between the shape parameters of 3D torso blocks and those of 2D patterns were analyzed using regression equations. Direct way of drawing a 2D pattern of corresponding 3D torso block was also illustrated for the convenience of pattern making using conventional measurements of upper/ lower radii and height of 3D torso block.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.637-646
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• 2016

The goal of this study is to provide basic data on developing circular knit basic pattern for women in their 20's. Production conditions of circular knit product pattern making among domestic women's apparel industry was researched, and collected data on sizes and ease amounts from woven and circular knit pattern were compared and analyzed. According to the result of the survey, product measurements adjusted to the actual body size fit for the brand's image were used, and the common problem among manufacturers and consumers regarding circular knit products turned out to be change in size and form due to stretching. For the basic pattern of circular knit, stretching quality was reflected in the woven basic pattern based on plain stitch(single knit) and then dart was removed and ease amount was reduced. The result of looking into size and ease amount about woven and circular knit torso & sleeve block shows that there is a significant difference among chest circumference, hip circumference, bi-shoulder length, interscye back, interscye front, scye depth, upper arm circumference and wrist circumference, and it was clear that circumference and width on the areas around the wrist tended to fit around the body more when circular knit was used instead of woven fabric.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.63-81
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• 2013

A Study using compare and analyze about differences among three patterns(shape and size of pattern, fitting and amount of air gap and so on) through 3D simulation. This study use 3D simulation program, DC Suite version 3.0. The results are as a follows: The results of estimation about total appearance, the pattern of Bunka is best of all pattern about total fitting and silhouette of front and back side. The pattern of armstrong and on&on stand low in estimation. As the total fitting, the pattern of Bunka is 4.40, the pattern of Armstrong is 2.60 and the pattern of On&on is 1.60. The result show better pattern of Bunka than pattern of Armstrong and On&on. When we examine about space between body and cloth, the pattern of Bunka is best. The pattern of Armstrong don't have problems about back side but front side have some problem of getting loose. Because it only have a waist dart so dart size is too big. The pattern of On&on have so much space because it don't have a waist dart. On the amount of air gap, the pattern of Bunka squash up body so it have the amount of air gap 0.08 at bust circumference and underbust circumference. Next is the pattern of Armstrong, amount of air gap is 0.14 at bust circumference and 0.23 at underbust circumference. The pattern of On&on's amount of air gap is 0.30 at bust circumference and 0.37 at underbust circumference. So the pattern of Bunka is bodice block of the best closing adhesion and the On&on is a loose-fitting pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.4 s.163
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• pp.633-645
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to develop brassiere patterns which are both fitting and functional for women aged 19 to 24(the 1924 generation). We suggested a 'size chart for body measurements' for constructing basic brassiere patterns with six sizes of '70, 75', 'AA, A, B cups', which are used most frequently by the 1924 generation consumers. The scope of research was in reference to the statistical analysis results of the Size Korea(2004) body measurements and the results of the data from the preceding research. The 'drafting method for constructing basic brassiere patterns for the 1924 generation consumers' was completed by selecting a total of 18 subjects, 3 for each six sizes in the scope of research, and three wearing tests were carried out with the subjects. We compiled one brassiere pattern in six sizes obtained with the drafting method of constructing a basic brassiere pattern on another by block pattern in order to observe the phase of change in dimensions and shapes of paper pattern. The result was converted into the variations of a x-axis and a y-axis, and we suggested 'Size Grading Rule' and 'Cup Grading Rule' for the basic brassiere patterns. As the results of the wearing evaluation of the basic brassieres and measuring the variation in body dimensions by wearing brassieres, the dimensions and shapes of the basic brassieres suggested in this research proved to be fitting and to have a wearing effect that brings together and supports the breasts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.45-59
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• 2016

This research is a study to develop basic block patterns for adult males. The subjects were 20 men in their 20s, and we tested 6 basic bodice blocks that are used in academia and industry. First, a comparative analysis of the patterns of the bodice blocks was conducted and the test garments were made, and then their appearances were evaluated during wearing tests. Based on the test results, we intended to select a bodice block that is a good fit when it is put on and to use it as basic data in order to design a man's bodice block for the future. The research results are as follows: First, a comparison of the 6 bodice block drafts showed that they used differently calculated ease allowances at chest circumference and width, waist circumference, shoulder length, etc. for which the upper chest circumference is used as a reference. Second, when the appearances of the test garments were tested, the average scores were high in the order of B> H> P> K> M> L. Pattern B was superior in the areas of the neck circumference and shape, ease allowance at the back of the neck, circumference of the front of the neck, location of side width, ease allowance at sides, armhole width and depth. But in the other test items, there were cases where other patterns were superior.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.577-586
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• 2000

The objectives of this study were to develope slacks basic block to be used for improving the attactive silhouette and bodily fitness in ready-to-wear and educational patterns. The subjects were from 20 to 24 years old and twenty six body measurements were taken on the National Anthropometric Survey of Korea in 1977. The women in 20's think ideal body shapes are high stature, long legs, slander waist, hip, abdomen, thigh, ankle and light weight. And so it needs to be studied to studied to make slacks pattern which show slander girth and long length. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. Through the comparative investigation on the conventional slacks patterns of System M. Muller & Sohn, Secolli, 文化's in Japan, and Won-ja Rim's and the clothing experiment, the characteristics of every four patterns were found. 2. According to the center back slant, reflecting the change of waist circumference, thigh circumference, back crotch length, and the new suitable slacks pattern was achieved. 3. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the new slacks pattern by comparing with the conventional slacks pattern. From the result of the sensory evaluation, it was found that the new slacks pattern was more suitable for appearance. 4. The new slacks pattern for women in their 20's were developed as follows ; The waist line came down 2 ㎝, the waist circumference was plus 2㎝ than originally, and the back hip circumference was larger 1 ㎝ than the front hip, the slacks length was created stature/8×4.9, the knee length was stature/8×2.7. The center back crotch length was interspaced 1∼1.5㎝ at the center front, and was at right angle the point which was raised 5㎝ at the side front. This size is not the absolute size but it helps to make the surplus on any other ready-made slacks for women.

• Journal of Korea Multimedia Society
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• v.20 no.10
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• pp.1655-1661
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• 2017

A high-speed directional interpolation algorithm based on the pattern of a $2{\times}2$ pixel block is proposed in this paper. The basic concept of the proposed algorithm is started from UDWT(un-decimated discrete wavelet transform), but there are no transform operations. In order to detect the direction of the edge, 4-pixel differences of two pairs in the $2{\times}2$ block are compared. The $2{\times}2$ block patterns are grouped into total 8 classes, and thereafter the directional interpolation is executed according to the type of the pattern. Since the calculation of the proposed algorithm is very simple and needs a few additions on integer data type, the computation time is almost same as that of bilinear interpolation algorithm. However, experimental results show that the output quality of the proposed one is better than those of the conventional interpolation ones in the objective quality and the computation time.