• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.101-113
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• 2016

This study was conducted in order to analyze draping and flat pattern according to jacket design, and provide basic materials for developing a jacket pattern that can enhance fitness, functionality, and aesthetic expression of clothes by reflecting esthetic expression of draping and efficiency of flat pattern at the same time. For the experimental jacket designs of a one-piece sleeve jacket and a two-piece sleeve jacket were selected among the entries of the designer Rubina for 2014 F/W Seoul Fashion Week. Designer brand Rubina usually produced clothes using draping and the designer brand company provided the experimental patterns for the study. We also had flat patterns of the same design and size specifications designed by a flat patternmaker who has 30 year-experience in flat pattern like Rubina. The test apparel jacket was made of 20's cotton yarns. Three models wore the jackets and evaluation on appearance fitness was conducted by 7 members in an expert panel group from August 10, 2015 to September 10, 2015. As a result of appearance fitness analysis on one-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant difference in 4 items among 17 items in terms of overall appearance. The appearance of jackets by draping had higher score than those using flat pattern. As for two-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant differences in 7 items among 17 items related to overall appearance. As for the items related to sleeve, 5 items out of 13 showed significant differences. Except for one item, appearance of jackets using draping had higher score than flat pattern. As for motion fitness, draping was evaluated to be more comfortable. Applying the items with high scores in appearance and motion fitness in draping to flat pattern, The study suggests a new jacket pattern development that would increase the satisfaction of consumers for future research.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.699-714
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to suggest a methodology to grasp the design method of industrial slacks pattern for women in their early twenties. The result of this study is as follows: 1. The result of the questionnaire showed that the design of rear center gradient was most important and the rear center gradient was designed by shifting waist line and hip line to a suitable degree.; below the waist by 4cm, the girth was measured and the ease of $0{\sim}1cm$ was applied to it, and the ease of hip girth was $3.2{\pm}1.2cm$, and rear center gradient was $2.2{\pm}1cm$, and front crotch extension was $2.8{\pm}0.5cm$, while rear crotch extension was $6.3{\pm}0.5cm$. 2. By comparing rear center gradient which was selected as an important design item with total crotch length and hip girth, I selected industrial pattern and educational pattern, and evaluated them on human bodies. In the result of ANOVA analysis, there were meaningful differences in 8 items: the ease of front waist girth, the ease of front abdomen, the ease of front hip girth, rumples in the side lines, the location of rear waist line, etc. 3. The design method of slacks pattern suitable for women in their early twenties was suggested as follows: the location of waist girth is below waist by $2.5{\sim}3cm$; the ease of waist girth is $0{\sim}1cm$; the ease of hip girth is $2{\sim}3cm$; total crotch length is body size - 5cm; rear center gradient is $2.5{\pm}0.5cm$; rear crotch extension is $7{\pm}0.5cm$; front crotch extension is 3cm.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.596-605
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• 2013

This study investigates the wearing trend and purchase facts for adult females in their 20s and 30s along with their fitting satisfaction for woven jackets and circular knitted jackets. A questionnaire survey on consumers investigated satisfaction with jackets according to clothing materials and repair trend after wearing. Subsequently, a preference for circular knitted jackets was shown higher than woven jackets. Females in their 20s preferred woven jackets than those in their 30s; however, the latter preferred circular knitted jackets than the former. For woven jackets, they showed the highest satisfaction with size; however, for circular knitted jackets, they showed the highest satisfaction with fitting. In the question on their satisfaction by jacket part, satisfaction with circular knitted jackets was higher in all items except for bust measurement, bottom edge measurement, elbow circumference, shoulder width, and clothes length. Circular knitted jackets had lower repair rates than woven jackets and woven jackets had significant differences by age in satisfaction with back width. The research results indicate that females in their 20s and 30s who value fit preference and practicality will increasingly wear knit clothes. Therefore, we can address the fitting satisfaction requirement of females in their 20s and 30s by taking the clothing material properties of circular knitted clothes into consideration. In addition, further research is required on jacket patterns in consideration of clothing materials.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to compare the constitutions comparatively among Korean, Chinese and Chosunjok college women and thereby, provide for some basic data helpful to the development of export apparels befitting the Chinese consumers, For this purpose, Korean, Chinese and Chosunjok college women aged between 17 and 24 were sampled to be subject to body measurements. The measurement data obtained were indexed for each part of the body to set a total 29 constitutional indices, which were analyzed by factor dictating the major shapes of body, Thus, based on the constructed, the differences of constitution among three groups were comparatively analyzed. The results of this study of this study can be summarized as follows; It was found through this study that Korean college women had thickest neck compared with body size and had longer lower limbs compared with stature, Moreover, their lower body was absolutely longer than the other two groups, and thus, Korean college women were found slimmest. On the other hand, Chinese college women had most voluminous chest turned over with shorter and thicker body. they were obesest. Chosunjok college women had longest upper body but shortest breast length. Their lower body was obesest, and their body was longer compared with stature. Moreover, Chosunjok college women's lower limbs were shortest, while their arm scyes were small nearest body type.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.15-26
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designing and making of brassiere with the consideration of the physiological nature of man. Each of 3/4-cup wired upward-support-type Mold Bra of 75 size with basic pad made at three representative domestic companies (A, B and C Company) was selected for analysis of pattern and components. The following is the result of this study. 1. That Company A's bra had the highest cup, relatively narrow width, the widest front-center and the highest front center at front pad. That of Company B had relatively short wing over the base and much difference at the height of cup depending on the presence of wire. That of Company C had low and wide cup, the widest bust span and the front center width, the front center height of front pad, the base length of front pad and the length of wings were observed to be of the figures between those of Company A and B. 2. The Bra of Company A had the biggest front center angle of $6^{\circ}$, while that of Company C had the biggest wing angle of $18^{\circ}$. The Bra of Company B showed the biggest difference of patterns depending on the presence of wire. Those of Company A and C showed very similar shape when wire was inserted. 3. The order of making brassiere is following: making of exterior mold cup${\rightarrow}$ sewing exterior cup and circumference of mold${\rightarrow}$ sewing base and wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to base${\rightarrow}$ sewing cup and main pad${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to upper sides and upper part of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing wire-tape to interior base of cup${\rightarrow}$ inserting of wire inside wire-tape${\rightarrow}$ sewing hook & eye on the back of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing shoulder string.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.117-128
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• 2012

This study compares the net effect of wearing different shoulder/arm armor systems on garment impediment perception and wearer acceptability. Two independent variables in this study were armor systems and shoulder/ arm movements. There were four armor systems of control garment and arm armor systems A, B, and C as well as five types of arm/shoulder movements, (shoulder flexion, should extension, shoulder abduction, shoulder horizontal flexion, and shoulder horizontal extension). Ten male volunteers wearing size medium battle dress uniform (BDU) with recent relevant military experience participated in this study. The volunteers performed shoulder/arm movements (while wearing each armor treatments) and completed the garment impediment perception as well as wearer acceptability scales. The body areas of neck side, shoulder top, and armscye front showed the highest frequency of reported impediments. Resistance to movement and localized pressure were the most frequently mentioned types of impediment. The armor system B had the most areas of impediment, and was rated as more restrictive than the control garment and armor system A for each movement. For wearer acceptability, no significant differences were found between the control garment and armor system A for all eight items; this indicated that subjects did not perceive a difference between wearing the control garment and armor system A. There was a trend for wearer acceptability to decrease from wearing the control garment to armor systems A to C to B.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.14-28
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• 2013

This study attempts to systematically analyze a red carpet style. I have researched the Academy Awards called representative film awards which symbolizes international fame and the Grammy Awards which is the most prestigious award in the music industry by subdividing into formative elements such as silhouette, color, fabric, pattern, detail, accessory, fashion image, and so on from 2000 to 2012. Firstly, when it comes to silhouette, mermaid silhouette accounts for the highest proportion in the Academy Awards. Compared to this, fit silhouette is shown almost the same percentage as the mermaid silhouette in the Grammy Awards. Secondly, with regard to color, black color has not only the highest percentage but also examples of different unit forms such as various color, showy gradation and single colors. Various colors in the Grammy Awards have similar percentage in comparison with the Academy Awards. Thirdly, in terms of fabric, silky material is often used most, which looks like putting more weight on dresses for the formative elements of clothes. Fourthly, in pattern, patternless dresses are represented by high percentage at both the Academy Awards and Grammy Awards. Dresses with patterns have mild, stylistic elements and geometric designs. The Grammy Awards shows many different unique patterns, color and size, compared to the Academy Awards. Fifthly, in detail, frill and ruffle ornaments are shown most at the Academy Awards and Grammy Awards. Especially in the Grammy Awards, beads ornaments are used most. Sixthly, in accessory, there are many accessories of graceful, elegance styles in the Academy Awards. On the contrary to this, there are many accessories to effect on many performances of large, fancy, unique styles. Seventhly, elegance images of a goddess style among fashion images emerge as fashion of the Academy Awards. In spite of romantic styles in the Grammy Awards, many various images are the same rate as there, which means different appearance of experiment and sensational styles.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.725-742
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• 2016

In the Korean fashion industry, 3D printing systems are considered as new technology and a new opportunity. With 3D printers, consumers can be manufacturers and individuals can develop businesses with little upfront capital. In this study, a dress form for the typical Korean women's body shape was developed using 3D technology (3D scanning, 3D modeling, and 3D printing). Ten women with apparel sizes 85-91-160 were selected from 3D body-scan data collected by SizeKorea of 201 women aged 25 to 34 (2010). First, 15 horizontal cross-sections were collected from the 3D scan data of the 10 subjects. Then, inside lines of those cross-sections were drawn at 15-degree intervals, and the lengths were measured. The average of the inside lines was connected to the internal spline curve, and the curves were used as the average cross-sections. The average torso body and the dress form of Korean women were developed into a 3D solid model using a 3D CAD program (Solidworks 2012). An output mockup was printed by the FDM type's 3D printing system (Bonbot 1200, Bonbot 3-H4) using PLA material. The dimensions comparing the 3D solid modeling to the 3D printed mockup of the dress form were measured, and minor differences were between 0.00cm and 0.40cm. In the future, 3D printing systems are expected to be in use for various personalized dress forms.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.316-325
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• 2006

The colors of apparel are getting more important to give the differentiated character on fiber and fabrics. This study was to extract the favorable colors that become to facial color types. Research was carried out to classify the facial colors into several similar facial color groups. With JX-777, 2 points of face: forehead and cheek, were measured and classified into 3 facial color types. Sample size was 418 Korean adult males and other 15 of new males subjects. New chosen 3 subjects who had the classified facial color types, wore silver gown and black hat on his head to minimize the interaction of the clothe color an hair. The 40 standardized color samples were used to extract the favorable colors. 187 respondents answered the degree of becomingness of color samples on 3 facial color types. Data were analyzed by K-means cluster analysis, ANOVA and Duncan multiple range test using SPSS Win. 12. Findings were as follows: 1. 418 subjects who had YR colors were classified into 3 kinds of facial color groups. Type 1 was 4.59YR 5.89/5.12, Type 2 was 5.61 YR 5.41/4.79 and Type 3 was 4.38YR 6.49/4.89 respectively. 2. Favorable colors for Type 1 were 2 colors that belonged to ' a ' group from among colors that were divided into a, b, c group and 18 colors that belonged to ' a ' group from among colors that were divided into a, b group by Duncan post hoc test. 3. Type 2 showed that this type had many unfavorable colors. Unfavorable colors were 16 colors that belonged to ' c ' by Duncan test. 5. Favorable colors for Type 3 were 14 colors that belonged to ' a ' from among colors that were divided into a, b, c and 16 colors that belonged to ' a ' from among colors that were divided into a, b by Duncan test.

• 복식
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• 제57권4호
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• pp.9-17
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• 2007

Somatotype is human body shape and physique type which can be classified not only by the size, but also by the shape or posture of the body. Postural variations in the alignment of the back, shoulder, and neck can have an adverse effect on the fit of garments designed to hang from the shoulders. There have been some previous studies about the lateral upper torso by analyzing photographic measurements. In this study, 3D body scan images were used to classify the side somatotype of upper lateral method even though they are major data in the classification of upper torso. This study focused on following objective.; 1) To apply new and developing technology into the apparel industry analyzing 3D body scan images. 2) To classify upper laterla torso using the data through the new improver technology, 3D body scanner. 3) To propose basic materials for well fitted garments for each type of figure. The test subjects for this study were two hundreds nine female aged 19 years and up who were recruited in Cornell university body scan research team. Seventeen Variables(12 angles, 5 lengths) out of 3D body scan data were measured based on these landmarks and applied to analyze. The result of factor analysis indicated that 6 factors were extracted through factor analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax and those factors comprise 62.5% of total variance. And the somatotype of upper body is classified into 3 types of figures according to cluster analysis; Bent forward posture, Straight posture, Swayback posture. Future study could be addressed about the somatotype of body by the age group based on the large database with wide variety of age.