A Study of Wearing Fitness of Jacket Design and Analysis of Flat Pattern and Draping

재킷 디자인의 입체와 평면 패턴분석 및 외관 적합성 분석에 관한 연구

  • 서완석 (세종대학교 패션디자인학과) ;
  • 김숙진 (세종대학교 패션디자인학과)
  • Received : 2016.02.03
  • Accepted : 2016.04.28
  • Published : 2016.06.30

Abstract

This study was conducted in order to analyze draping and flat pattern according to jacket design, and provide basic materials for developing a jacket pattern that can enhance fitness, functionality, and aesthetic expression of clothes by reflecting esthetic expression of draping and efficiency of flat pattern at the same time. For the experimental jacket designs of a one-piece sleeve jacket and a two-piece sleeve jacket were selected among the entries of the designer Rubina for 2014 F/W Seoul Fashion Week. Designer brand Rubina usually produced clothes using draping and the designer brand company provided the experimental patterns for the study. We also had flat patterns of the same design and size specifications designed by a flat patternmaker who has 30 year-experience in flat pattern like Rubina. The test apparel jacket was made of 20's cotton yarns. Three models wore the jackets and evaluation on appearance fitness was conducted by 7 members in an expert panel group from August 10, 2015 to September 10, 2015. As a result of appearance fitness analysis on one-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant difference in 4 items among 17 items in terms of overall appearance. The appearance of jackets by draping had higher score than those using flat pattern. As for two-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant differences in 7 items among 17 items related to overall appearance. As for the items related to sleeve, 5 items out of 13 showed significant differences. Except for one item, appearance of jackets using draping had higher score than flat pattern. As for motion fitness, draping was evaluated to be more comfortable. Applying the items with high scores in appearance and motion fitness in draping to flat pattern, The study suggests a new jacket pattern development that would increase the satisfaction of consumers for future research.

Keywords

References

  1. 서완석, 김숙진. (2014). 국내 여성복 브랜드재킷의 맞음새 평가 연구. 한국의상디자인학회지, 16(2), 15-29.
  2. 신장희. (2003). 국내 디자이너브랜드 업체의 패턴 업무 실태분석. 한국복식문화연구, 11(2), 208-218.
  3. 이명희, 강진희. (2004). 입체재단과 평면제도법의 의한 Bodice원형의 비교 연구. 생활문화연구, 18, 27-44.
  4. 이미성, 김소라. (2011). 노년여성을 위한 재킷패턴 개발. 한국패션디자인학회지, 11(1), 37-54.
  5. 윤지현, 박길순. (2010). 입체재단과 평면 재단 방식의 토루소 원형비교. 한국복식문화연구, 18(5), 892-907.
  6. 황애란. (2000). 상업용 샘플패턴 개발에 관한 연구. 동덕여자대학교 대학원 석사학위논문.
  7. 패션전문자료사전. (1997). 한국사전연구사.