• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.116-122
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• 1998

It is well known that all-trans-retinol is not only very unstable in heat, light, air, and water, but also skin-irritant despite a good anti-wrinkle effect. Therefore, it is very difficult to stabilize retinol and make the safe retinol containing cosmetics by using a certain concentration of retinol with real effect. In order to dissolve these problems and apply retinol for skin care cream, firstly retinol is to be encapsulated in the vesicle called Liposphere (pseudo-liposome) which is made by homogenizing under high pressure the mixtures of lecithin, retinol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and hydroalcoholic solution ; and then this retinol containing Liposphere is to be intercalated in lamellar liquid crystal layer which is prepared by emulsifying in an optimal ratio the mixtures composed of non-ionic emulsifier (cetearyl glucoside, sorbitan stearate & sucrose cocoate etc), cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, cholesterol, and ceramide. In addition, the stability of the retinol containing oil in water cream by adding the polymeric emulsifier such as acrylate /C10-30 alkyl alkylate crosspolymer is to be ensured even at 55 C. Retinol containing oil in water cream prepared through above procedure could be very stable at 45 C for at least 50 days. The structure identification of lamellar liquid crystal was determined using polarized light microscope and electron microscope Conclusively, we could make the very stable retinol containing oil in water cream by triple procedure, that is, encapsulation of retinol in Liposphere, intercalation of retinol in lamellar liquid crystal layer, and assurance of the high temperature stability of cream even at 55 C.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.2 s.43
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• pp.251-270
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• 2003

Cosmetics have had only simple efficacy such as cleansing, beautification, and so on. The latest development tendency for cosmetics turned to make goods that is effective and efficacious for whitening, anti-wrinkle, etc., due to various wants of consumers, development of relative technical, etc. According to this stream, Korea Cosmetics Law has been enacted by the Notification of the Korea Food and Drug Administration in 2000. The establishment of Korea Cosmetics industry and opened regular 'Cosmeceuticals Time'. Since the Korea Cosmetics Law took effect on July 2000, the cosmeceuticals system has settled down according to its lights. This research studied how women consumers were understanding the cosmeceuticals system focused on their life style. This study is considered to offer a basic information about consumer's type and to be a groundwork data for working out a marketing strategy about the subdivision of cosmeceuticals market.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.341-352
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• 2021

Acerola is an excellent ingredient because of its high natural vitamin C content, but it is difficult to stabilize and has hardly been studied as a cosmetic material. Therefore, this study developed a mixed liposome preparation for stabilizing acerola extract. As a safety test, the skin irritation test was evaluated by BCOP assay and HET-CAM assay. We evaluated the inhibition of tyrosinase activity, the whitening effect of melanin production, and the wrinkle effect of prochloragentype-I C-peptide production, and confirmed the possibility of functional cosmetics. In addition, a cream of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture was developed to evaluate the clinical studies of skin wrinkles and whitening. BCOP assay, HET-CAM assay and human skin primary irritation test results of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed no irritation and were safe from skin and eye. The result of tyrosinase activity by 75.8% at 1,000 ㎍/mL. As a result of the melanogenesis inhibition test, liposome with acerola extract showed the melanin content by 46.2% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not effect the viability of the B16F10 cell line. The result of collagen production test using ELISA kit, liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed collagen synthesis ability by 152.1% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not affect the viability of the HS68 cell line. But it did not showed any inhibition of collagenase (MMP-1) activity at all concentrations in the MMP-1 activity inhibition test in the HS68 cell line. We performed clinical studies for the whitening and skin-wrinkle activity of cream containing acerola extract mixes liposome, was showed that the melanin contents and wrinkle was statistically significant reduction. These results suggest that liposomes containing acerola extract mixture have safe natural material, and skin wrinkle, whitening effects allowing their application in cosmetics as a natural product.

• KSBB Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.431-438
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• 2008

For the experiment, to develop new materials for cosmetics, the Celosia cristata L. plant ethanol extract were used for physiological effect and cosmetics application research. The Celosia cristata L. is a Korean traditional variety grown. To investigate the effect of Ethanol extract of Celosia cristata L. on skin care, we measured anti-oxidant activity and anti-aging activity. Celosia cristata L. ethanol extract itself had anti-oxidant activity in a dose-dependent manner in 1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl(DPPH) radical scavenging. Ethanol extract had anti-oxidant activity in a dose-dependent manner. Silica dose-dependently increased the intracellular ROS generation in RAW 264.7 cells. Celosia cristata L. ethanol extract inhibited silica-induced intracellular superoxide anion generation and $H_2O_2$ generation and hydro-peroxide generation in RAW 264.7 cells. For anti-aging effects, the hyaluronidase inhibition effects, were relatively strong and they also showed elastase activity inhibition effects, which suggesting the Celosia cristata L. ethanol extract might be used as hydration and anti-wrinkle agents. From the above results, it is referred that Celosia cristata L. ethanol extract appears to have potent anti-oxidant activity and anti-aging activity.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.186-190
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• 2009

In the previous study, we reported the antioxidative activity and inhibition of melanogenesis of Ligularia stenocephala extracts. In this study, inhibitory effect on elastase and production type I procollagen were investigated. The compounds which was investigated were 4-hydroxyacetophenone, vanillin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid isolated from Ligularia stenocephala. They were slightly mild on elastase inhibition activity but 4-hydroxyacetophenone, vanillin exhibited good inhibition activity on collagen production. These results suggest that Ligularia stenocephala may have potential as an anti-aging ingredient in cosmetics.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Applied Pharmacology
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• 2007.11a
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• pp.140-152
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• 2007

Hyaluronic acid(HA) is a naturally occurring mucopolysaccharide composed of the repeating disaccharide unit of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine. HA exists as a high molecular weight polymer in the extracellular matrix of many tissues in the body. HA has been widely used not only for osteoarthritis and ophthalmology but also for cosmetics for skin care. Recently HA has drawin much attention for use in health foods. Bioland Corporation started production of HA t1y biotechnological process in 1990 for cosmetical use. At present Bioland produces HA for cosmetic and food use. We have done many researches to evaluate the helpful effect for skin and safety of HA as food. In order to evaluate the effect of HA on the skin after its oral intake, we measured its bioavailability, skin-care effects on anti-wrinkle, moisturization elasticity and desquamation by clinical trial. The results showed that HA is very safe and could bs helpful to improve anti-wrinkling, moisturization, elasticity, and desquamation on the skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.1
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• pp.69-78
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• 2017

Hwangryunhaedoktang (HHT) has been traditionally used as a preventive and therapeutic medicine to treat enervation and diverse chronic diseases. This study was designed to compare the antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects of HHT extract and its fermented extract by Leuconostoc mesenteroides (FHHT). FHHT was prepared by inoculation of L. mesenteroides after the extraction procedure with 70% ethanol. HHT and FHHT was investigated via high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Simultaneous qualitative analysis of two bioacitive components, berberine and palmatine. was achieved by comparing their retention times ($t_R$) and UV spectra with those of the standard components. Cell viability test results indicated that both HHT and FHHT were non-toxic. In DPPH radical scavenging ability, $SC_{50}$ values of the FHHT was $68.85{\mu}g/mL$, which is more effective than HHT. Moreover, FHHT showed higher expression in production of procollagen type I than HHT. In nontoxic concentration range, FHHT showed strong melanin production inhibitory effect in ${\alpha}-melanocyte$ stimulating hormone (${\alpha}-MSH$)-stimulated B16F10 cell ($IC_{50}=9.82{\mu}g/mL$). These results suggested that fermented extracts of hwangryunhaedoktang had considerable potential as a cosmetics ingredient with an antioxidant and anti-wrinkle and whitening effects.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.65-73
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• 2021

It is very important to control the inflammation of the skin because it can develop into diseases such as atopy as well as scarring and aging. In this work, we recently identified the in vitro synthesis of specialized pro-resolving mediators (SPMs) known to control inflammation in the human body and the applicability of cosmetics. Using recombinant protein of lipoxygenase from Glycine max, we succeeded to prepare mixtures of mono- or di-hydroxy DHA named as S-SPMs and used them for in vitro efficacy test. To investigate anti-inflammatory effect of S-SPMs, mRNA level of TNF-α and IL-6 were analyzed. Under UVB exposed condition, expression of both were decreased by S-SPMs treatment. And we observed reduced production of nitric oxide (NO) by S-SPMs application under the condition with diesel particulate matter (DPM). At the same experimental condition, malondialdehyde (MDA) production was decreased by S-SPMs, indicating the inhibitory effect of S-SPMs in lipid peroxidation. In addition, S-SPMs treatment resulted in reduction of matrix metalloproteinases-1 (MMP-1) expression and elevation of procollagen type I synthesis. Together with this, mRNA level of filaggrin and loricrin were increased by S-SPMs, indicating enhancement of skin barrier function. These results demonstrate that S-SPMs is a good candidate to develop as a cosmetic ingredient for anti-inflammation, anti-wrinkle, and improvement of skin barrier function.

• Journal of Convergence for Information Technology
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.290-297
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• 2022

This study was conducted to determine the cell cytotoxicity, astringency, nitrite oxide scavenging, iNOS protein expression level, pro-inflammatory cytokine, elastase inhibition, and type I pro-collagen synthesis as a functional cosmetics material of Salvia miltiorrhiza root. We prepared the 80% ethanol(SE) and hot-distilled water(SW), respectively. Both SE and SW showed no toxicity from 0.05 to 0.5 mg/mL concentration as a result of MTT assay in NHDF or RAW264.7 cells. In the measurement of astringent effect, SE reveled 74.6% of astringent activity in 10 mg/mL. SE showed that LPS-induced nitric oxide production, iNOS protein expression, and cytokines were inhibited in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, two extracts significantly inhibited elastase activity and increased the type I pro-collagen production. Therefore, it is expected that Salvia miltiorrhiza extract is used as a natural material for functional cosmetics that can effectively prevent skin-related inflammation and wrinkles, and aging.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.27-33
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to investigate the functionality of Lycium chinense Miller. as a functional cosmetic material. The total polyphenol content in the extract was 17.3 mg/mL, and as a result of confirming cytotoxicity through MTT assay before the enzyme experiment, it was confirmed that it did not affect cell growth at all concentrations below 1000 ㎍/mL. As a result of conducting DPPH radical scavenging tests as an antioxidant efficacy test, it showed 84.97% scavenging ability at a concentration of 1000 ㎍/mL, and showed very excellent antioxidant efficacy in SOD-like activity test with a result of 80.54% at 1000 ㎍/mL. The measured elastase inhibitory activity, the inhibition rate of 50.93% was observed at 1000 ㎍/mL, indicating that the extract of Lycium chinense Miller. was effective in inhibiting elastase. All these findings suggested that 70% ethanol extract of Lycium chinense Miller. was confirmed as a functional cosmetic material by confirming its antioxidant and anti-wrinkle efficacy.