Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Studies on Anti-Wrinkle and Whitening Effects of Liposomes Containing Acerola Extract Mixture

아세로라 추출물 혼합 리포좀의 주름, 미백 효과에 대한 연구

  • Kim, Su Jin (Healthcare Advanced Chemical Institute, Korea Testing and Research Institute) ;
  • Oh, Won Jun (Healthcare Advanced Chemical Institute, Korea Testing and Research Institute) ;
  • Kwon, Sung Pil (ChungdamCDC JNPharm LLC) ;
  • Nam, Gaewon (Department of Bio-cosmetics, Seowon University)
  • 김수진 ((재)한국화학융합시험연구원 헬스케어첨단화학연구소) ;
  • 오원준 ((재)한국화학융합시험연구원 헬스케어첨단화학연구소) ;
  • 권성필 (청담씨디씨제이앤팜) ;
  • 남개원 (서원대학교 바이오코스메틱학과)
  • Received : 2021.12.10
  • Accepted : 2021.12.27
  • Published : 2021.12.30
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Abstract

Acerola is an excellent ingredient because of its high natural vitamin C content, but it is difficult to stabilize and has hardly been studied as a cosmetic material. Therefore, this study developed a mixed liposome preparation for stabilizing acerola extract. As a safety test, the skin irritation test was evaluated by BCOP assay and HET-CAM assay. We evaluated the inhibition of tyrosinase activity, the whitening effect of melanin production, and the wrinkle effect of prochloragentype-I C-peptide production, and confirmed the possibility of functional cosmetics. In addition, a cream of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture was developed to evaluate the clinical studies of skin wrinkles and whitening. BCOP assay, HET-CAM assay and human skin primary irritation test results of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed no irritation and were safe from skin and eye. The result of tyrosinase activity by 75.8% at 1,000 ㎍/mL. As a result of the melanogenesis inhibition test, liposome with acerola extract showed the melanin content by 46.2% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not effect the viability of the B16F10 cell line. The result of collagen production test using ELISA kit, liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed collagen synthesis ability by 152.1% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not affect the viability of the HS68 cell line. But it did not showed any inhibition of collagenase (MMP-1) activity at all concentrations in the MMP-1 activity inhibition test in the HS68 cell line. We performed clinical studies for the whitening and skin-wrinkle activity of cream containing acerola extract mixes liposome, was showed that the melanin contents and wrinkle was statistically significant reduction. These results suggest that liposomes containing acerola extract mixture have safe natural material, and skin wrinkle, whitening effects allowing their application in cosmetics as a natural product.

아세로라는 천연 비타민 C 함량이 높아 우수한 원료이지만 안정화하기가 어려워 화장품 소재로서의 연구가 거의 이루어지지 못하고 있다. 따라서 본 연구는 아세로라 추출물을 안정화 시키는 혼합 리포좀 제형을 제조하여, 안전성 시험으로 BCOP assay 및 HET-CAM assay를 통한 안점막자극시험, 인체피부 일차자극시험을 통한 피부자극시험을 평가하였다. Tyrosinase 활성저해, melanin 생성저해를 통한 미백 효과 및 procollagen type-I C-peptide 생성을 통한 주름 효과를 평가하여 기능성 화장품 소재로서의 가능성을 확인하고자 하였다. 또한, 아세로라 추출물 혼합 리포좀이 함유된 크림을 제조하여 시험대상자를 대상으로 피부주름, 피부미백에 대한 인체효능평가를 진행하였다. 아세로라 추출물 혼합 리포좀의 BCOP assay, HET-CAM assay 및 인체피부 일차자극 시험결과에서 모두 자극을 보이지 않아 피부 및 안자극에서 안전함을 확인하였다. Tyrosinase 활성저해능을 확인한 결과, 아세로라 추출물 혼합 리포좀은 1,000 ㎍/mL 농도에서 75.8%의 tyrosinase 활성 저해능을 확인하였으며, melanin 생성 저해시험에서 B16F10 세포주의 생존율에 영향을 미치지 않는 아세로라 추출물 혼합 리포좀 1,000 ㎍/mL 농도에서 46.2%의 멜라닌 생성 저해능을 확인하였다. Procollagen type-I C-peptide에서 아세로라 추출물 혼합 리포좀은 HS68 세포주의 생존율에 영향을 미치지 않는 1,000 ㎍/mL 농도에서 152.1%의 collagen 합성능을 확인하였으나, MMP-1 활성억제는 확인할 수 없었다. 아세로라 추출물 혼합 리포좀이 함유된 크림에 대한 피부주름 및 피부멜라닌 인체효력평가에서 피부주름 지표와 피부멜라닌 지표에서 통계학적으로 유의하게 개선됨을 확인하였다. 이상의 연구 결과를 바탕으로 아세로라 추출물 혼합 리포좀이 안자극과 피부자극을 나타내지 않는 안전한 천연 소재임을 확인하였으며, 피부 주름 개선 및 미백 화장품 소재로써 활용 가능성이 높을 것으로 사료된다.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

본 연구는 산업통상자원부의 경제협력권산업육성사업창의융합 R&D(R0005985)에 의해 수행되었으며, 이에 감사를 드립니다.

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