• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.405-412
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• 2017

Because of the rapid development of computer technology in recent years, wave models can utilize parallel calculations for the high-resolution prediction of open sea and coastal areas with high accuracy. Parallel calculations also allow national agencies in the relevant sectors to produce marine forecasting data through massive parallel calculations. Meanwhile, the eastern coast of the Korean Peninsula has been increasingly damaged by swell-like high waves, and many researchers and scientists are continuing their efforts to anticipate and reduce the damage. In general, the short-term transformation of swell-like high waves can be reproduced relatively well in the third generation wave models, but the transformation of relatively long period waves needs to be simulated with higher accuracy in terms of the nonlinear wave interactions to gain a better understanding of the low-frequency wave generation and development mechanisms. In this study, we developed a calculation module to improve the calculation of the nonlinear energy transfer in the 3rd generation wave model and integrated it into the wave model to effectively consider the nonlinear wave interaction. First, the nonlinear energy transfer calculation module and third generation model were combined. Then, the combined model was used to reproduce the wave transformation due to the nonlinear interaction, and the performance of the developed operation module was verified.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.27-33
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• 2008

One of the central problems in astudy of the coastal surface wave environment is predicting the transformation of waves as they propagate toward the shore. The transformation is mainly due to the existence of obstacles, such as breakwaters and vertical cylinders. In general, the types of wave transformation can be classified as follows: wave diffraction, reflection, transmission, scattering, radiation, et al. This research dealtwith wave transmission and dissipation problems for two dimensional irregular waves and vertical circular cylinders. Using the unsteady mild slope equation, a numerical model was developed to calculate the reflection and transmission of regular waves from a multiple-row circular breakwater and vertical cylinders. In addition, hydraulic model experiments were conducted with different values for the properties between tire piles and the opening ratio (distances) between the rows of the breakwater. It was found that the transmission coefficients decreased with a decrease in the opening ratio and an increase in the rows of vertical cylinders. A comparison between the results of hydraulic and numerical experiments showed reasonable agreement.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.307-317
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• 1993

파랑의 비선형성 및 분산을 고려한, 연안역에서의 파랑변형에 관한 연구를 수행하였다. 규칙파의 변형에 관한 수학적 모형은 비선형 ray모델에 기초하였으며, ray 및 파동장에 관한 방정식들을 수립하였다. 비선형 파동장은 수정 Korteweg-de Vries 식으로서 나타내었으며, 이에 대한 몇몇 해석 해들을 구하였다. 또한 Caustic 변형 및 감쇄효과를 수학적 모형에 포함하였다. Korteweg-de Vries 방정식에 대한 수치계산 알고리즘과 안정조건을 기술하였으며, 연안역에서의 비선헝 파랑변형 계산 결과를 제시하였다.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.240-246
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• 2002

타원형 천퇴해역에 대한 규칙파 및 일방향 불규칙파의 전파변형에 대한 수리모형실험을 수행하였다. 수리모형실험은 비쇄파조건의 규칙파와 천퇴의 정상부에서 부분쇄파가 발생하는 일방향 불규칙파를 대상으로 수행되었다. 수리모형실험 조건에 대해 포물형근사식을 적용한 수치해석을 수행하여 실험결과와 비교하였다.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.597-605
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• 2019

This paper proposes a novel method for efficient prediction of joint distributions of heights and periods of nonlinear ocean waves. The proposed novel method utilizes a transformed linear simulation which is based on a Hermite transformation model where the transformation is chosen to be a monotonic cubic polynomial, calibrated such that the first four moments of the transformed model match the moments of the true process. This proposed novel method is utilized to predict the joint distributions of wave heights and periods of a sea state with the surface elevation data measured at the Gulfaks C platform in the North Sea, and the novel method's accuracy and efficiency are favorably validated by using comparisons with the results from an empirical joint distribution model, from a linear simulation model and from a second-order nonlinear simulation model.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.557-564
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• 2007

타원형 수중천퇴가 있는 지형을 통과하며 변형하는 파랑을 실험한 Vincent and Briggs(1989)의 실험조건을 수치모의하여 규칙파 변형에 대한 파랑과 흐름의 상호작용 효과를 연구하였다. 수치모의를 위해 흐름모형 SHORECIRC와 파랑모형 REF/DIF 1 그리고 SHORECIRC와 파랑모형 SWAN을 결합한 모형과 파랑과 흐름을 동시에 계산하는 FUNWAVE를 이용하였다. 이 수치모의로 부터 수중천퇴상에서 발생된 쇄파류는 수중천퇴후면의 파집중현상을 방해하고, 파랑을 천퇴중심축의 바깥쪽으로 굴절시켜, 파고를 상대적으로 감소시키는 역할을 하는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 두 결합모형의 수치모의 결과는 쇄파류의 영향을 고려하지 않는 파랑모형만의 결과보다 실험치와 일치하였으나, 중복파가 발생되는 경우 SWAN모형과 REF/DIF모형으로부터 계산되어지는 잉여응력(radiation stress)에 문제가 있다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 또한, FUNWAVE를 이용한 수치모의는 실험결과와 완벽히 일치하였다. 이는 파랑쇄파류의 파랑변형에 미치는 역할의 중요성을 확인시켜주는 것이다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.44-51
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• 2008

The planning and design of coastal structures against wave attack is required to accurately predict wave transformation, wave run-up, and fluid. particlevelocities an a slope. On tire other hand, in tire swash and surf zones of a natural beach, where coastal erosion and accretion occur at tire land-sea boundary, hydrodynamic analysis is essential. In this study, a RBREAK2 numerical model was created based on the nonlinear shallow water equation and laboratory measurements were carried out in terms of tire free surface elevations and velocities for tire cases of regular and irregular waves on 1 : 10 and 1 : 5 impermeable slopes. The data were used to evaluate tire applicability and limitations of tire RBREAK2 numerical model. The numerical mode1 could predict tire cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably well, but showed more accurate results for slopes that were steeper than 1 : 10. Except near tire wave crest, tire computed depth averaged velocities could represent tire measured profile below tire trough level fairly well.

• 한국항해항만학회지
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.257-262
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• 2005

본 연구는 최근의 연안역 개발 사업 이전에 선행되어야 하는 물리학적 변화요인들( 파랑변형과 주변해역의 해양 환경적 변화 요인 등)에 대한 연구에 그 목적이 있다. 이러한 관점에서 울산 신항과 같은 연안역에서의 DELFT-3D: WAVE(SWAN)을 이용하여 대상 해역의 파랑특성을 파악했다, 파랑특성 파악을 위해서 다방향 불규칙파의 굴절 및 천수변형을 동시에 풀 수 있는 에너지 평형 방정식을 사용한 수치모델인 SWAN 모델에 대해 연구하였다. 이러한 과정을 통해서 울산 신항 주변 해역의 불규칙 파랑특성을 파악했다. 파랑특성 파악의 가상 좋은 방법은 현장 파고계를 설치하여 장기간에 걸쳐 파랑을 직접 관찰하는 것이다. 그러나 광범위한 지역에 대한 파랑특성 파악에는 어려움이 있어서 이에 대한 대안으로 수치모텔인 DELFT-3D; WAVE를 이용해서 불규칙 파랑특성을 파악했다.

• 한국항만학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.75-86
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• 1998

To design a coastal structure in the nearshore region, engineers must have means to estimate wave climate. Waves, approaching the surf zone from offshore, experience changes caused by combined effects of bathymetric variations, interference of man-made structure, and nonlinear interactions among wave trains. This paper has attempted to find out the effects of two of the more subtle phenomena involving nonlinear shallow water waves, amplitude dispersion and secondary wave generation. Boussinesq-type equations can be used to model the nonlinear transformation of surface waves in shallow water due to effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and reflection. In this paper, generalized Boussinesq equations under the complex bottom condition is derived using the depth averaged velocity with the series expansion of the velocity potential as a product of powers of the depth of flow. A time stepping finite difference method is used to solve the derived equation. Numerical results are compared to hydraulic model results. The result with the non-linear dispersive wave equation can describe an interesting transformation a sinusoidal wave to one with a cnoidal aspect of a rapid degradation into modulated high frequency waves and transient secondary waves in an intermediate region. The amplitude dispersion of the primary wave crest results in a convex wave front after passing through the shoal and the secondary waves generated by the shoal diffracted in a radial manner into surrounding waters.

• 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국해양공학회 2006년 창립20주년기념 정기학술대회 및 국제워크샵
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• pp.377-381
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• 2006

Recently, as economy grow and population increase we need to develop our coastal area and make good use of it for various purposes. That's why large structures are being installed on the sea. Some samples are petroleum storage tanks, pier of sea bridges. These are large structures which have been installed at coastal area. When we design such vertical cylinder, we should avoid too much construction expense caused by excessive designing or by lack of sufficient design. In order to prevent excessive expenditure, it is important to correctly calculate the force of waves acting on structures and predict the wave transformation. In this study, apply to VOF method based on Navier-Stokes equation and then discussed that nonlinear wave force and wave transformation. A comparison between the numerical model and existing experimental results showed nice agreement among them.