Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers (한국해안해양공학회지)

Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers (한국해안·해양공학회)
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Nonlinear Dispersion Model of Sea Waves in the Coastal Zone

연안역에서의 비선형 파낭 분산모형

  • Pelinovsky, Efim N. (Hydrophyical Department, Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Science) ;
  • Stepanyants, Yu. (Hydrophyical Department, Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Science) ;
  • Talipova, Tatiana (Hydrophyical Department, Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Science)
  • Published : 1993.12.01
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Abstract

The problem of sea wave transformation in the coastal zone taking into account effects of nonlinearity and disperison has been studied. Mathematical model for description of regular wave transformation is based on the method of nonlinear ray theory. The equations for rays and wave field have been produced. Nonlinear wave field is described by the modified Korteweg-de Vries equation. Some analytical solutions of this equation are obtained. Caustic transformation and dissipation effects are included in the mathematical model. Numerical algorithm of solution of the Korteweg-de Vries equation and its stability criterion are described. Results of nonlinear transformation of sea waves in the coastal zone are demonstrated.

파랑의 비선형성 및 분산을 고려한, 연안역에서의 파랑변형에 관한 연구를 수행하였다. 규칙파의 변형에 관한 수학적 모형은 비선형 ray모델에 기초하였으며, ray 및 파동장에 관한 방정식들을 수립하였다. 비선형 파동장은 수정 Korteweg-de Vries 식으로서 나타내었으며, 이에 대한 몇몇 해석 해들을 구하였다. 또한 Caustic 변형 및 감쇄효과를 수학적 모형에 포함하였다. Korteweg-de Vries 방정식에 대한 수치계산 알고리즘과 안정조건을 기술하였으며, 연안역에서의 비선헝 파랑변형 계산 결과를 제시하였다.

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