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Study on Developing Western Women's 3D Bodice and Jacket of the Late 19th to Early 20th Century - Based on the Pattern Drafting Book of Gordon S. S. - (19세기 말 20세기 초 서양 여성 3D 바디스 및 재킷 개발 - Gordon S. S.의 패턴북을 중심으로 -)

  • Ryu, Kyunghwa;Kim, Yanghee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.23 no.6
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    • pp.744-757
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    • 2021
  • This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.

Conservation Treatment and Structural Characteristics of Armor and Helmets Housed in the National Museum of Korea - Armor and Helmets from the Mid- and late Joseon Dynasty (국립중앙박물관 소장 갑주(甲冑)의 보존처리와 구조적 특징 - 조선시대 중·후기 갑주를 중심으로-)

  • Park, Jinho;Park, Jihye;Hwang, Jinyoung
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.26
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    • pp.35-66
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    • 2021
  • This study conducted scientific analysis and conservation treatment on four suits of armor and two helmets from the collection of the National Museum of Korea. Based on the findings, it identified structural characteristics of armor from the middle and late Joseon Dynasty. Since a suit of armor is made of composite materials consisting of both organic and inorganic elements, conservation treatment was conducted to the extent that the stable condition of each material remained unaffected by the other materials. The process took place in the sequence of investigation and analysis, removal of contamination, stabilization and reinforcement, repair of damaged parts, and storage. The armor and helmets had suffered severe damage, but were safely repaired and partially restored through the conservation treatment. The findings from the conservation treatment revealed the materials used and structural characteristics of the armored skirt from a two-piece set of armor from the middle Joseon period and for the two suits of overcoat-style armor, suit of vest-style armor, and helmets from the late Joseon era. It also allowed the investigation of the production methods of the armor and helmets.

A Study on the Wearing Condition and Design Preferences of the Rash Guard (래시가드 착용실태 및 디자인 선호 연구)

  • Han, Yuchen;Choi, Jeongwook
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.24 no.1
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    • pp.45-57
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    • 2022
  • A rash guard, also known as rash vest or rashie, is functional sportswear that protects the wearer's skin from various dangers during outdoor sports activities. It is durable and comfortable since it is designed considering muscle movement. In modern society, more and more people enjoy leisure activities due to an increase in income level and increased leisure hours. Water leisure activities are increasingly enjoyed in the summer. As the way people think of leisure evolves, people are more inclined toward dynamic leisure sports rather than static facility tourism. Therefore, more research on rash guards is required. By identifying and analyzing the design preferences and purchase behaviors of young adults on rash guards, this study aims to provide basic data on the actual sportswear behaviors concerning those who are most active in water sports, people in their 20s and 30s. Furthermore, the study aims to contribute to a healthy exercise lifestyle for women who enjoy water sports and the growth of the water sportswear market. In the study, a survey was conducted using a questionnaire to investigate the wearing behaviors and purchase preferences as well as the wearing satisfaction on rash guards. For the study, 200 copies of the questionnaire were distributed and collected to be used as analysis data. The questionnaire consisted of 36 questions, 6 about demographic characteristics, 11 about purchase preferences, and 19 about wearing satisfaction. The collected data was analyzed using the statistical program SPSS 8.0. The study results can be used as basic data to investigate the design preferences and wearing behaviors of rash guards of women in their 20s and 30s. The results found numerous complaints on comfortableness and durability, which suggests more concern and improvements are necessary in those areas when designing patterns for rash guards.

PollMap: a software for crop pollination mapping in agricultural landscapes

  • Rahimi, Ehsan;Barghjelveh, Shahindokht;Dong, Pinliang;Pirlar, Maghsoud Arshadi;Jahanbakhshian, Mohammad Mehdi
    • Journal of Ecology and Environment
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    • v.45 no.4
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    • pp.255-263
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    • 2021
  • Background: Ecosystem service mapping is an important tool for decision-making in landscape planning and natural resource management. Today, pollination service mapping is based on the Lonsdorf model (InVEST software) that determines the availability of nesting and floral resources for each land cover and estimates pollination according to the foraging range of the desired species. However, it is argued that the Lonsdorf model has significant limitations in estimating pollination in a landscape that can affect the results of this model. Results: This paper presents a free software, named PollMap, that does not have the limitations of the Lonsdorf model. PollMap estimates the pollination service according to a modified version of the Lonsdorf model and assumes that only cells within the flight range of bees are important in the pollination mapping. This software is produced for estimating and mapping crop pollination in agricultural landscapes. The main assumption of this software is that in the agricultural landscapes, which are dominated by forest and agriculture ecosystems, forest patches serve only as a nesting habitat for wild bees and the surrounding fields provide floral resources. Conclusion: The present study provided new software for mapping crop pollination in agricultural landscapes that does not have the limitations of the Lonsdorf model. We showed that the use of the Lonsdorf model for pollination mapping requires attention to the limitations of this model, and by removing these limitations, we will need new software to obtain a reliable mapping of pollination in agricultural landscapes.

Identifiable life vest signal generator in case of marine accident (해양사고 시 식별 가능한 구명조끼용 신호발생 장치)

  • Bang, Gul-Won
    • Journal of Digital Convergence
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    • v.20 no.5
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    • pp.317-322
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    • 2022
  • In general, life jackets are worn by people in critical situations on the water to rise to the surface without falling into water, and life jackets simply serve to prevent sinking, but do not actively help rescue disaster areas in critical situations early. In order to solve this problem, a device that automatically generates a distress signal in an emergency situation was developed. When the survivor is in hand for a while, the distress signal generator is automatically separated from the life jacket, allowing information such as location values and other information to be transmitted wirelessly and a rescue signal using LED light. As a result of the experiment, when submerged in water, the life jacket and the distress signal generator were automatically separated, and the result of wireless transmission of the coordinate value of the location received by the GPS was confirmed. By using this, the location of the distress or missing person can be identified, which can be quickly replaced in case of an emergency

A study on the formative analysis of Chinese traditional women's clothing design elements and preference of modern Chinese women's clothing reflecting traditional clothing (중국 전통 여성복 디자인 요소의 조형적 분석과 전통복식을 융합한 현대 중국 여성복 선호도에 관한 연구)

  • Jizhen Li;Jihyeon Kim;Mi-hyang Na
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.24 no.4
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    • pp.117-133
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    • 2022
  • In order to reflect traditional elements in modern design, designers should be able to creatively apply elements of traditional Chinese clothing. To understand this, a deep understanding of and insights into the traditional clothing culture are required. In this study, the characteristics of traditional Chinese women's clothing from the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties of China to the Qing Dynasty were analyzed by dividing them into silhouette, color, pattern, materials, and detail. The characteristics of the silhouette were classified into A, H, X, and O types, of which types A and H were the most common. As for the color characteristics, there are relatively many five cardinal colors, and for the contrast of colors complementary colors were mainly used. As the for pattern characteristics, real patterns, animal patterns, character patterns, geometric patterns, and mixed patterns were used. Four types of materials were mainly used: silk, hemp, cotton, and wool. The detail characteristics were also anlyzed by classifying them into collar, sleeve, neckband, and gusset. Based on the results of this analysis, a satisfaction survey was conducted on the design of modern Chinese women's clothing. The result of satisfaction with design elements showed that the images of vest and suit were most preferred, H and X silhouettes, and yellow and white were the most preferred. Geometric and plant patterns were preferred, as were silk and acetate materials. Based on the result of chi-square analysis of design element preferences according to the characteristics of the subject, there was no difference according to occupation, residential area, or income, and there were differences in silhouette, color, materials, and detail according to age.

Stage Costume Design for Performance Hamlet (II) - The Study on Pattern and Manufactured Product - (햄릿 공연을 위한 무대의상 디자인 (II) - 패턴 및 실물제작 -)

  • Kim, Soon-Ku;Hwang, Seong-Won
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.6 no.1
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    • pp.41-50
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    • 2004
  • This research proposes the on-stage costumes for the play Hamlet of Shakespeare performed by Yunheedan Guhri Pae - the Street Theater Troupe. Stage costumes have an important role in displaying the characteristics of each characters to the audience and has big visual effects. However, in order to design the costumes in the object viewpoints of the audience, the survey on the images of the characters who had actually watched the performance was taken place and proposed the costume design according to the results of the survey. Hamlet a: This result was applied to propose a sweater in black color, black leather pants and vest. Hamlet b: This result was applied to propose hooded coat in purple in middle level of brightness and color spectrum and yellow coat. For free image, loose pants in blue and vest in the same color tone were proposed. Gertrude a: This result was applied to use purple (violet) with reddish tone to propose the formation of a dress applying tailored suit. Gertrude b: This result was applied to propose purple gown and the one-piece dress with black laces. Ophelia a: This result was applied to propose feminine white dress and cape in purple color tone. Ophelia b: This result was applied to propose dyed and weaved clothes. Through the surveys as above, the images of each character was driven in adjectives, and using the results driven from the brightness, coloration, and color, color images were proposed. Only one costume cannot make up for the stage costumes and because it exists as an element of stage production, it is true that costumes are limited in some areas. However, that limit can become the motive of the costume. There is a limit, which the designer cannot produce the costumes as he or she had designed but I believe it is the center of the on-stage customers to display the characteristics of the characters according to the given concept. The limit of this research is the fact that because the costumes were designed so they fit the conditions already given, thus it was difficult to regard the process of designing and producing the costume as a project done according to the interaction. And in the future, if it is possible, I wish for the joint research with the people responsible for stage art to take place as a practical stage art. It was possible to produce practical costume since they were produced for actual performance and the production of costumes considering the dance steps, line of flow, and acting, was able to reduce the trial and error on stage. Through this research, I felt that the understanding and smooth interaction on diverse other areas not limited to the costume design should be taken place and believe that this was a research that proposes new research method since there had been only a few previous research regarding the on-stage costumes for actual performances. Therefore, this research had depended on the surveys given to the audiences to endow objectivity, however, I wish this research can contribute to defining effective process and methods for the on-stage costumes with more active researches with diverse methods and in diverse areas. I am sorry that the costume production for all the characters and all the scenes in Hamlet couldn't be done due to many limitations. As the following research assignment, I am planning on designing the costumes for all the scenes.

A Study on the Costumes in the Dong A II Bo - $1920{\sim}1945$ - (동아일보(東亞日報)에 나타난 복식연구(服飾硏究))

  • Son, Myong-Im;Kim, Jin-Goo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.14
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    • pp.145-165
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    • 1990
  • This study examine closely conditions of costume between the Modernized period and Liberation with newspaper materials. Because newspaper generally appear society conditions in those days on rapid and across-the boad basis. The Modernized period is extremely change among history of costum (ordinance prohibiting top knots, allowance of foreign clothes putting on). Because this change have been spontaneously not by internal desired but Western input by the strong nation of imperialism to enclose Chosun, they was accepted by the general public later under the rule of Japaneses Imperialism. Consequently, study of costume play an important part periods between the Japanese annexation of Korea and Liberation. This study apply to newspaper characteric for costume, and closely examine an important costum condition of those days next time, and present costume material in those days that composed the account catalog appeared periods between the first publication(1920) of the Dong A II Bo, and in the year 1945, it is as follows. 1. Foreign clothes of men generally accept the general public on look at from form change, in the 1920's had come short Jackets and narrow throusers into fashion, in the 1930's had come trousers of generous waist band with broads shoulder and long Jackets. Catalog of Major clothes is as follows; Spring coat, Jacket, Vest, Shirt, etc. While pants had come trousers into fashion 2. Functional characteric of Foreign clothes was the possible acceptance of women's foreign clothes. It relate with much discussion to improve Korean development in those days and substitute foreign clothes for Korean clothes because of institence in those days to improve functional clothes life. 3. An improvement women's Korean clothes generally take aim at women's nipple liberation, substitute vest waist for skirt waist, appear seamless one-piece skirt of shade length, and long dress length of Jacket. 4. Children's clothes give an account of functional and sanitary conditions, handling method, washing method. 5. Clothes materials give account of foreign clothes material, artificial silk, furs, cotton fabrics, and etc. 6. Clothes management give an account of washing, keeping method, washing method of foreign clothes, and keeping of furs. 7. The hair generaly had come short hair into fashion in men's case, while accounts on long hair fashion of foreign nation effect in case of women. 8. Describing on beauty care manage primary beauty care, reform, plastic operation, and shade beauty care. Ideal beauty care deal with natural and dignified buauty care. 9. Accesaries (hat, handbag, handkerchief, gloves) change with fashion of clothes, it rapid more than clothes fashion. 10. On encouragement of abolition of white clothes and putting on dyeing clothes, because of economic defect of white clothes, psychology and beauty consequently, white clothes is on the rise abolition. In national level almost substitute dyeing clothes for control and improvement of people of all social standings consequently, dress and its ornaments conditions in those days analyzed account of Dong-A II Bo accept the foreign clothes that introduced internal country of the whole century, and substitute dyeing for white clothes. Costume condition in those days appear the mixed conditions of Korean clothes and Foreign clothes. In the 1920's is the first consideration dress and its ornaments form of Korean clothes. As later goes on foreign is given much weight in the whole clothes life. Account of foreign clothes managemental ways appear in the 1920's, while those facts prove the point that appeared the account that always dealed with concrete content of foreign fashion in the 1930's.

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Accessibility Analysis in Mapping Cultural Ecosystem Service of Namyangju-si (접근성 개념을 적용한 문화서비스 평가 -남양주시를 대상으로-)

  • Jun, Baysok;Kang, Wanmo;Lee, Jaehyuck;Kim, Sunghoon;Kim, Byeori;Kim, Ilkwon;Lee, Jooeun;Kwon, Hyuksoo
    • Journal of Environmental Impact Assessment
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    • v.27 no.4
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    • pp.367-377
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    • 2018
  • A cultural ecosystem service(CES), which is non-material benefit that human gains from ecosystem, has been recently further recognized as gross national income increases. Previous researches proposed to quantify the value of CES, which still remains as a challenging issue today due to its social and cultural subjectivity. This study proposes new way of assessing CES which is called Cultural Service Opportunity Spectrum(CSOS). CSOS is accessibility based CES assessment methodology for regional scale and it is designed to be applicable for any regions in Korea for supporting decision making process. CSOS employed public spatial data which are road network and population density map. In addition, the results of 'Rapid Assessment of Natural Assets' implemented by National Institute of Ecology, Korea were used as a complementary data. CSOS was applied to Namyangju-si and the methodology resulted in revealing specific areas with great accessibility to 'Natural Assets' in the region. Based on the results, the advantages and limitations of the methodology were discussed with regard to weighting three main factors and in contrast to Scenic Quality model and Recreation model of InVEST which have been commonly used for assessing CES today due to its convenience today.

Comparison of Habitat Quality by the Type of Nature Parks (자연공원 종류별 서식지질 비교)

  • Jung-Eun Jang;Min-Tai Kim;Hye-Yeon Kwon;Hae-Seon Shin;Byeong-Hyeok Yu;Sang-Cheol Lee;Song-Hyun Choi
    • Korean Journal of Environment and Ecology
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    • v.36 no.6
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    • pp.553-565
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    • 2022
  • Awareness of the ecological value and importance of protected areas has increased as climate change accelerates, and there is a need for research on ecosystem services provided by nature. The natural park, which is a representative protected area in Korea, has a system of national parks, provincial parks, and county parks. National parks are managed systematically by the Korea National Park Service, but local governments manage provincial parks and county parks. There may be the same hierarchical differences in naturalness (habitat quality) depending on the hierarchy of the natural parks, but it has not been verified. To identify differences, we examined 22 mountain-type natural parks using habitat quality using the INVEST model developed by Stanford University. The analysis of the habitat quality, regardless of the type and area of the natural park, showed that it was higher in the order of Taebaeksan National Park (0.89), Juwangsan National Park (0.87), Woongseokbong County Park (0.86), and Gayasan National Park (0.85). The larger the area, the higher the value of habitat quality. A comparison of natural parks with similar areas showed that the habitat quality of national parks was higher than that of provincial parks and parks. On the other hand, the average habitat quality of county parks was 0.83±0.02, which was 0.05 higher than that of provincial parks at 0.78±0.03. Furthermore, the higher the proportion of forest areas within the natural park, the higher the habitat quality. The results confirmed that the naturalness of natural parks was independent of their hierarchy and that there are differences in naturalness depending on land use, land coverage, and park management.