• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2006.05a
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• pp.1931-1934
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• 2006

The accuracy impact of using high-order Boussinesq-type model as compared to the typical order model is examined in this paper. The multi-layer model developed by Lynett and Liu(2004a) is used for simulating of wave breaking over a step region. The overall comparisons between the two-layer model and the hydraulic experiments are quite good. The one-layer model overshoals the wave near the breakpoint, while the two-layer model shoals at a rate more consistent with the experimental data.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.19 no.2 s.63
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• pp.29-33
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• 2005

The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and design of coastal structures. Numerical experiments are conducted to identify the shoaling and breaking characteristics of a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation-based model. Simulated shoaling showed good agreement with the Shouto's formula, and the results of the breaking experiment agreed well with experimented data, over several beach profile.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.281-289
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• 1994

An equation set of nonlinear model for regular/irregular waves presented in this study can be applied to waves travelling from deep water to shallow water, which is different from the Boussinesq equations. The presented equations completely satisfy the linear dispersion relationship and when expanded, they are proven to be consistent with the Boussinesq equation of several types. In addition, the position of averaged velocity below the still water level is estimated based on the linear wave theory.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.418-428
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• 2007

In the calculation of wave propagation by Boussinesq equation model, it is very common to experience numerical noises generated from nonlinear interaction and breaking wave occurrence, and the numerical solution is rapidly diverged unless the noises are properly controlled. A comparative study was here undertaken for the characteristics of three different lowpass filters (FFT filter, Gaussian filter and Shapiro filter) which are all designed to be applied to the interim results of numerical calculation. The numerical results obtained with application of respective filter techniques were compared with the results of an existing hydraulic experiment for the aspects of noise suppression, conservation of main signal and altering time. The results show that the Shapiro filter can be best applied with optimal choices of its element number, pass number and filtering tune interval. The combination of the number of filter element off, pass number of 50 or less, and application interval of 100 to 200 time steps generally showed good performance in both accuracy and efficiency of the numerical calculation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.446-456
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• 2007

Numerical analyses of stem waves, the interaction between incident and reflected waves of obliquely incident regular waves along a vertical wall in a constant water depth, are presented. For the numerical model of the analysis, the two-layer Boussinesq equations developed by Lynett and Liu(2004a,b) are employed. Numerical results are compared with both laboratory measurements and those obtained using parabolic approximation model. The overall comparisons between the results from the two numerical models and the experiments are good. However, the two-layer Boussinesq model is more accurate than the parabolic approximation model as the angle of incident waves increases. In particular, the higher harmonic generation due to the wave nonlinearity is captured only in the Boussinesq model.

• Tribology and Lubricants
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.121-127
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• 1998

In this study, a numerical procedure to solve a contact problem has been developed. The procedure takes advantage of signal processing technique in frequency domain to achieve shorter computing time. Boussinesq's equation was adopted as the response function. This procedure is applicable to a non-periodic surface profile as well as a periodic one. The validity of this procedure has been established by comparing the numerical results with the exact solutions. The fastness of this procedure was shown in comparison with other algorithm.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.112-117
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• 1990

Boussinesq-type equations should be employed in which the water surface profile is considerably steep or the bottom topography is abruptly changed. The primary reason is that the pressure deviates significantly from the hydrostatic pressure distribution due to the large curvature of the stream lines. It is shown that such a Boussinesq type equation can be also derived by making use of the concept of the averaged flow description for specifying the turbulence effects. In addition, a numerical scheme is developed to solve the equations and the effects of the Boussinesq term is briefly investigated.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.136-145
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• 2007

When waves propagating over an underwater shoal break at the top of the shoal, wave heights are drastically decreased in the downstream breaking zone, but a secondary current shooting downstream with strong velocity can be induced by the breaking waves themselves. In the case that an offshore structure is placed in the breaking zone, the estimation of wave farce purely based on the visible wave height may cause an under-design of the structure. Thus, for the safe design of the structure, the breaking wave induced current should be necessarily considered in the comprehensive estimation of design load. In the present study, Boussinesq equation model to calculate the wave height distribution and breaking wave induced current was set up and applied to the scheme of a hydraulic model test previously undertaken. Based on the results of the Boussinesq model, fluid forces acting on the model structure were calculated and compared with the experimental results. The importance of the breaking wave induced current was quantitatively assessed by comparing fluid forces with or without current.

• Ecology and Resilient Infrastructure
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 2014

In this study, a numerical simulation technique for coastal area where wave and current interactions are observed is proposed. Considering the spatial scale of coastal area and the coastal processes such as wave, current, shoaling, wave breaking, and inundation processes, boussinesq equation model is used. A depth-integrated transport model based on the consistent assumption with the boussinesq equation model is used for the prediction of solute transport. To solve the equations, finite volume method with an approximate riemann solver is used. The proposed model is applied to a coastal area and reasonable computational results are obtained.

• Kyungpook Mathematical Journal
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• v.49 no.1
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• pp.81-93
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• 2009

Bifurcation method of dynamical systems is employed to investigate exact solitary wave solutions and kink wave solutions in the generalized modified Boussinesq equation. Under some parameter conditions, their explicit expressions are obtained. Some previous results are extended.