• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.263-278
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• 2004

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ONA are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepato-protective, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effect of UA and ONA on acutely barrier disrupted and normal hairless mouse skin. To evaluate the effects of UA and ONA on epidermal permeability barrier recovery, both flanks of 8-12 week-old hairless mice were topically treated with either 0.01-0.1mg/mL UA or 0.1-1mg/mL ONA after tape stripping, and TEWL (transepidermal water loss) was measured. The recovery rate increased in those UA or ONA treated groups (0.1mg/mL UA and 0.5mg/mL ONA) at 6h more than 20% compared to vehicle treated group (p < 0.05). Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/mL per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to vehicle group from 1 week without TEWL alteration (p < 0.005). EM examination using RuO4 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent (ONA=UA > vehicle). LM finding showed that thickness of stratum corneum (SC) was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA > ONA > vehicle). We also observed that UA and ONA stimulate epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Protein expression of involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin increased at least 2 and 3 fold in HaCaT cells treated with either ONA (10${\mu}$M) or UA (10${\mu}$M) for 24 h respectively. This result suggested that the UA and ONA can improve epidermal permeability barrier function and induce the epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber elongation by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory activity measurements were also confirmed in vivo findings. These data suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only epidermal permeability barrier functions but also dermal collagen and elastic fiber synthesis. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve epidermal and dermal functions and pertinent agents for cosmeseutical applications.

• Molecules and Cells
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.323-330
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• 2020

Epigenetic events like DNA methylation and histone modification can alter heritable phenotypes. Zinc is required for the activity of various epigenetic enzymes, such as DNA methyltransferases (DNMTs), histone acetyltransferases (HATs), histone deacetylases (HDACs), and histone demethylases, which possess several zinc binding sites. Thus, the dysregulation of zinc homeostasis can lead to epigenetic alterations. Zinc homeostasis is regulated by Zinc Transporters (ZnTs), Zrt- and Irt-like proteins (ZIPs), and the zinc storage protein metallothionein (MT). Recent advances revealed that ZIPs modulate epigenetics. ZIP10 deficiency was found to result in reduced HATs, confirming its involvement in histone acetylation for rigid skin barrier formation. ZIP13 deficiency, which is associated with Spondylocheirodysplastic Ehlers-Danlos syndrome (SCD-EDS), increases DNMT activity, leading to dysgenesis of dermis via improper gene expressions. However, the precise molecular mechanisms remain to be elucidated. Future molecular studies investigating the involvement of zinc and its transporters in epigenetics are warranted.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.95-101
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• 2018

The epidermis which is stratified by epithelial tissue renewal based on keratinocyte differentiation protects the organism from various environmental insults by forming a physical barrier. Autophagy is a mechanism which mediates lysosomal delivery and degradation of protein aggregates, damaged organelles and intracellular microorganisms. Recent reports have shown that autophagy has critical roles for proper terminal differentiation to stratum corneum via removing metabolic organelles and nuclei. However, whether increasing autophagy can activate epidermal differentiation is unknown. Here, we screened a library of natural single compounds and discovered that betaine specifically increased the LC3 positive cytosolic punctate vesicles and LC3-I to LC3-II conversion in HaCaT human keratinocyte cell line, indicating increased autophagy flux. mTOR pathway, which negatively regulates autophagy, was not affected by betaine treatment, suggesting betaine-induced autophagy through an mTOR-independent pathway. Betaine-induced autophagy was also observed in primary human keratinocyte and skin equivalent. Furthermore, epidermal thickness was increased in skin equivalent under betaine treatment. Overall, our finding suggests that betaine as a novel regulator of autophagy may induce epidermal turnover and improve the skin barrier abnormality of the aged epidermis.

• Journal of The Korean Society of Integrative Medicine
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.63-71
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• 2024

Purpose : Skin is the primary barrier to protect the body from various exogenous factors. Among them, UVB exposure can cause the induction of not only excessive inflammatory responses but also the degradation of extracellular matrix (ECM), including collagen and elastin. This study tried to investigate the ameliorative effect of Persicaria perfoliata ethanol extract (PPEE) on UVB-irradiated photodamage through the regulation of activator protein (AP)-1, phosphoinositide 3-kinase (PI3K)/Akt, and mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling molecules in HaCaT cells. Methods : The cytotoxicity of PPEE on HaCaT cells was evaluated by the WST-1 assay. The 80 mJ/cm² of UVB (312 nm) was irradiated on HaCaT cells to induce the photodamage. Western blot analysis was conducted to investigate the protein expression levels of cyclooxygenase (COX)-2, matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-9, and heme oxygenase (HO)-1 for ameliorative status by PPEE treatment in UVB-exposed HaCaT cells. In addition, the activated status of the inflammatory transcription factor, AP-1, as well as upstream signaling molecules, PI3K/Akt, and MAPK, were also evaluated by Western blot analysis. Results : Any cytotoxic effect was not induced at the concentration up to 200 ㎍/ml by PPEE treatment. Protein expression levels of COX-2 and MMP-9 were significantly down- and up-regulated by PPEE treatment. The inflammatory transcription factor AP-1, stimulated by UVB irradiation, was also significantly attenuated by PPEE treatment. The phosphorylated status of PI3K/Akt and MAPK were mitigated by PPEE treatment in UVB-exposed HaCaT cells. Moreover, PPEE treatment potently accelerated the expression of HO-1 and its transcription factor, nuclear factor-erythroid 2-related factor (Nrf)2, which is known for its anti-inflammatory activity. Conclusion : Consequently, PPEE treatment significantly regulated COX-2 and MMP-9 expressions in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. The inflammatory transcription factor AP-1, along with upstream signaling molecules PI3K/Akt and MAPKs, were also attenuated by PPEE treatment in UVB-exposed HaCaT cells. Additionally, PPEE treatment exaggerated HO-1 expression and Nrf2 activation, which might have contributed to the anti-inflammatory activity of PPEE. These results indicate that PPEE could be a candidate for attenuating UVB-induced photodamage in human skin.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.383-389
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• 2017

This study intends to analyze the contents of rutin, procyanidin B3, quercetin, kaempferol, known to have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic effects, among the polyphenol type contained in the grape pruning stem extracts (GPSE), utilizing grape stems being discarded after harvest, measure the effects on the skin moisture, inhibition of skin cell proliferation, anti-inflammatory on the damaged skin of a HR-1 mice induced with UVB, and verify the applicability as a material for functional food and functional cosmetics. The results of verifying the photoprotection effects through the skin proliferation control through of GPSE showed similar result to suncream was achieved at the GPSE concentration of 2,000 mg/kg on the epidermis (p<0.05). The results showed anti-inflammatory effects on all groups applied with GPSE as compared to the control group irradiated with UVB, but at the GPSE concentration of 1,000 mg/kg, a lower COX-2 protein expression at 8%, lower than the 22% of suncream, was observed to achieve an excellent anti-inflammatory effect (p<0.05). The results of this study confirmed the existence of active polyphenol type, such as rutin, kaempferol, querocetin and procyanidin B3, within the GPSE, and GPSE has improvement effects on moisturizing effects, skin proliferation control effect, inflammatory control effect and improvement effects on the skin barrier function through UV ray damage. GPSE is a functional ingredient with a potential for skin protection effects, and has high utilization as an ingredient for functional food and functional cosmetics.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.141-147
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• 2018

This study aimed to analyze the contents of rutin, procyanidin B3, quercetin, and kaempferol, known to have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-carcinogenic effects, among the polyphenol types contained in grape pruning stem extracts (GPSE). It utilized grape stems discarded after harvest to measure the effects of GPSE on skin moisture, inhibition of skin cell proliferation, and anti-inflammatory activity on the damaged skin of HR-1 mice induced with ultraviolet B (UVB), and to verify the applicability of GPSE as a material for functional food and functional cosmetics. The polyphenol was extracted from grape pruning stems with 80% EtOH, and then the extract was used while storing at $-20^{\circ}C$, after filtering, concentrating, and freeze-drying it. The content of an active ingredient of GPSE was analyzed using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). From 53 kg of the grape pruning stem specimen, 2.34 kg of the EtOH fraction extracts were extracted to achieve a 4.42% yield ratio. Analysis of the active ingredients showed 0.28 mg/g of procyanidin B3, 12.81 mg/g of rutin, 0.51 mg/g of quercetin, and 8.24 mg/g of kaempferol. After UVB irradiation on the dermis, to confirm the degree of inhibition of collagen synthesis, we examined the protein expression of MMP-9 using immunohistochemical staining. The results of this study confirm the existence of active polyphenol types, such as rutin, kaempferol, quercetin, and procyanidin B3, in GPSE. Moreover, the study found that GPSE has anti-collagenase effects and it decreases the effects of UV damage on skin barrier function. GPSE is a functional ingredient with a potential for skin protection effects, and it has high utilization potential as an ingredient for functional cosmetics.

• Journal of Physiology & Pathology in Korean Medicine
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.1-6
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• 2020

Arctii Lappa Fructus has the numerous health benefits, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-carcinogenic properties. Skin lipids are one of several factors that maintain epidermal barrier function. This study was to explore the lipogenic effect by ethanol extract of Arctii Lappa Fructus (EAF) in sebocytes. First, it was confirmed that EAF exhibited high antioxidant activity and collagenase activity inhibition. We found that cholesterol and triglyceride levels of cells by EAF were increased significantly in a dose-dependent manner. Moreover, EAF increased the expression of transcription factor sterol regulatory element-binding protein-1 (SREBP-1) in the cells. These results suggest that EAF induces lipogenesis in cells through the activation of SREBP-1.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.1
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• pp.59-65
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• 2023

We validated the physiological activity of Syzygium claviflorum (Roxb.) Wall. ex A.M. Cowan & Cowan (S. claviflorum) extracts (leaves, stems, fruits, and flowers) as a cosmetic ingredient. Firstly, S. claviflorum extracts removed over 80% of free radicals at various concentrations in antioxidant experiments using the DPPH and ABTS assay. In cytotoxicity experiments using human epidermal keratinocytes, S. claviflorum extracts showed low cytotoxicity. In addition, S. claviflorum extracts significantly increased the expression of keratin (KRT)1, KRT2, KRT9, KRT10, which are differentiation markers of keratinocytes, as well as genes involved in the maintenance of skin barrier function, including involucrin (IVL), loricrin (LOR), filaggrin (FLG), and claudin1 (CLDN1). In particular, the expression of FLG protein, inhibited by interleukin (IL)-4/IL-13 in atopic dermatitis, was restored by S. claviflorum extracts in in vitro experiments. Therefore, S. claviflorum extracts with excellent antioxidant efficacy and skin barrier improvement function will be useful materials for the development of future atopic dermatitis treatments and cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.1 s.55
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• pp.17-22
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• 2006

Phosphatidyiserine (PS) is a phospholipid which plays the structural role in membranes and serves as a cofactor of signaling enzymes for diverse cellular functions. In this study, we observed that topical treatment with PS significantly decreased trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) induced by tape-stripping in hairless mice. Also, ceramides in epidermis were increased in PS-treated group compared to vehicle-treated one in vivo. the amounts of non-hydroxyl ceramide (NHCER) (1.4 fold) and glucosylceramide (glucosylCER) (1.6 fold), in the skin of hairless mice, were increased by topical treament with PS. Also, we demonstrated that PS stimulated keratinocyte differentiation. We observed that PS treatment morphologically altered normal human keratinocyte (NHK) from the proliferating phase to the differentiating one, suggesting that PS stimulated epidermal differentiation in NHK. We also showed that the expressions of the specific markers for epidermal differentiation, involucrin (INV) (3.5 fold up) and transglutaminase 1 (TG'ase 1) (3 fold up), were significantly increased by PS treatment, compared to untreated control in vitro. In addition, topical treatment with PS resulted in a progressive increase in INV and loricrin protein levels in vivo. In conclusion, we provide the first evidence for the physiological activities of PS in skin, and we suggest that PS strengthen the epidermal permeability harrier by stimulation of keratinocyte differentiation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.37-47
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• 2019

Recently, due to the increase in skin diseases caused by particulate matter, endocrine disruptor and environmental changes, the trend of development of cosmetic materials has been shifting to the more safe and effective ingredients based on natural materials rather than existing synthetic compounds like steroids and antihistamines. This study aimed to develop a new natural cosmetic materials using oriental herbs such as Eucommiae cortex, Alpinia oxyphylla Miquel and Bombyx batryticatus. First, DPPH assay was performed to examine the antioxidative activity of the herbal extract (Mix) and 98.8% DPPH radical scavenging activity was confirmed at $400{\mu}g/mL$ concentration of it. In order to confirm the whitening efficacy of oriental herbal extracts(mix), the amount of melanin synthesized after stimulation of ${\alpha}-MSH$ with B16F10 cells was measured. Results showed that it was decreased to 27.1% comparing with the only ${\alpha}-MSH$ treated group, which confirmed the whitening efficacy. Also, both nitric oxide(NO) production and iNOS and COX-2 expression were significantly reduced in RAW264.7 macrophages activated by LPS in the presence of the extracts(Mix). The mRNA expression of the inflammatory cytokines such as $IL-1{\alpha}$, $IL-1{\beta}$, IL-6, and $TNF-{\alpha}$ was also analyzed to confirm the inhibition effect of the extracts on inflammation. Finally, to confirm the enhancement of skin barrier function, the expression of claudin 1 gene, a tight junction protein, was observed using human keratinocyte HaCaT cells and increased as concentration dependent manner. From these results, it is concluded that the oriental herbal extracts(Mix) containing Eucommiae cortex, Alpinia oxyphylla Miquel and Bombyx batryticatus is effective for antioxidant, anti-inflammation, skin whitening, and skin barrier and thus could be applied as a new natural cosmetic material.