• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.549-556
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• 2014

This study evaluates the thermal insulation and evaporative resistance of a waterproof and breathable garment system and determines the factors influencing its thermal performance. The experimental garments were composed of underwear (shirts with 100% wool and 100% polyester) and outerwear (jackets and pants with a vapor-permeable membrane and a vapor-impermeable membrane). Data on clothing insulation in a dry condition ($10^{\circ}C$) and a wet condition ($10^{\circ}C$, 40% R.H.), evaporative resistance ($34^{\circ}C$, 40% R.H., and $10^{\circ}C$, 40% R.H.), and microclimate vapor pressure were collected and analyzed. According to the results, the thermal insulation of the experimental garment system ranged 1.27~1.40 in the dry condition and 0.40~0.89 in the wet condition at $10^{\circ}C$. Evaporative resistance ranged $41{\sim}525m^2Pa/W$. A decrease in thermal insulation by wetting underwear ranged 31~67% in the cold condition ($10^{\circ}C$). The breathability of the outer garment influenced the decrease in thermal insulation by wetting. The type of underwear fiber influenced the decrease in thermal insulation only when it was used with breathable outerwear. The vapor-permeable outerwear sample with polyester underwear (P_Perm) showed a larger decrease in insulation than that with wool (W_Perm). The evaporative resistance of the vapor-permeable ensemble showed no effect of underwear in the warm condition ($34^{\circ}C$), but polyester underwear showed lower evaporative resistance than wool in the cold condition ($10^{\circ}C$). The vapor-impermeable ensemble showed no difference in evaporative resistance between polyester underwear and wool underwear in both conditions. Future research should consider various clothing ensemble combinations and environmental conditions and evaluate wear comfort by using human subjects.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.26-38
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• 1998

This paper is based on a survey of consumers 'opinions on underwears. The questions in the survey dealt with what materials were used to manufacture underwears, which underwears were worn together in combinations, and how comfortable underwears were. In addition, the respondents were asked about how many pieces of different underwears they posses. Through such research, this paper aims to provide a guide to manufacturing domestic underwears that are competitive against foreign bands. 336 women in their twenties, thirties, forties and fifties from Seoul and it's suburbs were surveyed. Statistical analysis was performed by calculating the average, frequency and standard deviation, and through one-way analysis and the Duncan test. The following are the results of the study : 1. Consumers were moderately satisfied with Korean-made underwears. In order to complete with foreign brands, products with high consumer-satisfaction levels must be produced. 2. Upper garments usually consisted of brassieres with shoulder straps and sleeveless shirts. For lower underwears, most people tended to wear panties under girdle, with garlets on top. This is most likely the resut of more people wearing slacks than skirts. 3. Consumer in their twenties had anaverage of 1.71 slips, while those in their thirties had 3.07, those in their forties and 3.25, and people in their fifties had 3.88 slips. Thus the number of slips a consumer possesses increases as age increases. for socks, people in their twenties had 7.4 pairs on average, those in their thirties had 5.5, those in their forties had 6.7, and those in their fifties had 5.3. Thus, those in their twenties possessed the most number of socks. Consumers in their twenties also had the largest proportion of socks among all the types of hosiery combined, with 47.1% of their hosiery being socks. 4. Consumers did tend to prefer cotton underwears, but according to the type of underwears, producting using mixed fabrics of cotton and synthetic fibers were also frequently worn. 5. The shape and form of underwear that consumers prefer in a ceratin time frame varies according to the latest fashion in outer wear. Therefore, planning design of underwear products by predicting the future trend of outer wear fashion is necessary.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.30
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• pp.211-225
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• 1996

In this paper we discuss the corelation be-tween feminism and fashion and examine its influnce on mordern fashion. And we also try to infer what the fashion design will be like in the future by understanding the value of modern fashion from a new viewpoint. The Early Feminism which advocated the similarity between man and women held the thought that women could be equal to men only when they behaved in the same way as men did, In 1970s when the pendulum of the Early Feminism movement reached its highest point a manish look began to flourish. The manish look introduced the items once employed only for men such as trench costs tidy tailored suits shirts and ties to women clothes. It has taken root deeply in women's life and is still employed in various ways by many designers. From the late 1970s the pendulum of feminism movement began to swing toward the Essentialist Feminism which emphasized the differences between men and women. It focused not on the negative image of women seen from male-oriented viewpoints but on their positive image and stressed women's sexual characteristic to make distinction between two genders. in fashion the Essentialist Feminism played a role in bringing about a sexy look which stressed the erotic silhouette of woman's body. The latest feminism is the socio-cultural one. It sees the distinction between men and women as sexual discrimination and introduces the androgynous human which carries the characteristic of two sexes. it leads to ambiguity of sex roles and at the same time serves to make androgynous social atmosphere by admitting the coexistence of two genders. The androgynous idea in fashion is expressed as a new trend which crosses men and women's own beauty while keeping their own identity intact. As we have briefly reviewed feminism in fashion has been presented in various ways with regard to expressing the nature of men and women. And it has continuously indicated the ultimate message of the salvation of mankind such as the respect for humanity and recovery of humanism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.197-215
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• 1998

Vivienne Westwood, the revolutionary cre-ator of Punk fashion(ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, fetishist accoutrements) was a street fashion designer. Although Westwood's clothes have frequently been described as decadent, degenerate and unwearable, they have also exerted a powerful influence on interntional fashion. Westwood became a fashion designer in the mid-1970s, when he emergence of Punk put London back on the fashion map for the first time since 1965. Just as the Mods, Rockers, and Hippies of the 1960s had embraced par-ticular styles of dress and music, so also did the Punks create their own subculture. The Punk“style in revolt”was a deliberately“re-volting style”that incorporated into fashion various offensive or threatening objects like tampons, razor blades, and lavatory chains. Vivienne Westwood and parter Malcolm McLaren articulated this youth culture, who roots lay in music. A sign is something which stands for some object or idea, while the semiotics are the ex-ternal expression for an internal meaning. Semiotics can be used as a medium of communication between dress and music. A language is simply used for explicit of meaning, while the style of dress and music express the explicative and implicative signs. Peirce's scheme among several theories of the semiotics was chosen for this study, because the Peirce's scheme was the first non-language communication medium between external and internal stages, and readily inter-preted the styles of dress and music. Punk rock was studied at first to identify the style which influenced Vivienne Westwood's works and then Semiotics were used to apply the above results to the 1970s and 1990s for analyzing and interpreting the Vivienne Westwood's works were also interpreted by the symbolic characteristics of Semiotics, because the symbol of semiotics often found at Youth Cults reflected punk rock. The symbol of revolt, decadence, grungy, freedom in Vivienne Wes-twood's works wre determined by using Punk rock's semiotics. This study could conclude that the style of dress and punk rock were able to be interpreted by semiotics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.125-139
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• 2004

The present study was to analyze the trend of registration of design rights in apparel products and tc point out problems of current protection law to design. The research data was total 1,850 design rights in apparel that have been registered to the Korean Patent and Trademark Office from the first design registered in March 1, 1963 through those registered in April 24, 2003. All design rights were analyzed by the year, by the type of product, and by the type of applicant. And also design rights registered under the revised design registration system(without examination) were analyzed by the trait. The results of the study were as follows: (1) Sweater & polo shirts, underpants, and the Korean traditional dress were three major single categories registered in apparel : (2) 54.3% of total design rights in apparel was registered since the legal system of design rights has been revised in March 1, 1998 : (3) Registration by individual applicant were 71.7% of total; (4) About 60% of total design rights were for aesthetic, but in some categories such as vest. brassiere, undershirts, designs for function were more frequently registered than others. And total 68 design rights for the symbol of the organization or uniform, were registered in upper outerwear and pants : (5) As problems of the current legal protection system for designs, the term of “design”(expressed in Korean), double registration of similar designs, malicious intention to register other's trademark as his/her own design. The current legal system for design rights were more used for the product that has relatively long life cycle. And the revised law has been effective in encouraging the registration of design rights. However. the current design law still has some problems to be revised to prevent design rights or trademark infringement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.1
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• pp.89-103
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to design fashion-cultural products by reviewing the symbolism in Changseung and Sotdae, which are folk belief sculptures. This study was performed by literature reviews of Changseung and Sotdae in order to look into the characteristics of folk belief and traditional culture, and the designs were developed from the symbolism extracted from Changseung and Sotdae with photoshop CS5 and illustrator CS5. The Symbolism of Changseung and Sotdae were as follows: First, Changseung and Sotdae express the 'symbiotic world view' that human beings need to devote one's life to nature. Second, original materials were saved in order to achieve the 'pursuit of essence'. Third, 'simple esthetic expression' was symbolized through the undivided condition between art, religion and life. And fourth, 'empathic humor' was seen through the basis of emotional sense of affinity. The first concept of design development was 'Pursuit of Essence', which was inspired by the characteristics of 'symbiotic world view' and 'pursuit of essence'. Changseungs were expressed as simple and abstract, and Sotdaes as simplified and modern by symmetrical and rotating copy. The second concept, 'Touch of Humor' was inspired by 'simple esthetic expression' and 'emphatic humor'. The face of Changseungs was exaggerated in a humorous ways and Sotdae was developed as sub-motives. The items for the fashion-cultural design were T-shirts, bags, and scarves. Total of 24 items were developed with 4 differently styled designs for each concept. This study was based on basic culture and attempted to diversify the traditional culture items. It hopes to raise the value of traditional culture, and furthermore help build up national competitiveness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.646-656
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• 2015

This study investigates the conditions of Korean naval duty and combat uniforms to develop a new design. Survey participants consisted of, 723 Sailors ($25.3{\pm}6.9yr$ in age, $43{\pm}53$ months in work experience, $174{\pm}6cm$ in height, $71{\pm}9kg$ in body mass) serving in the Korean Navy for over 12 months. The questionnaire consisted of 72 questions about anthropometric characteristics, preferred design, textiles, wear mobility, and subjective perceptions. The results showed that the preferred colors for future naval duty uniforms were blue in summer (69%) and black in winter (62%). Digital camouflage pattern (60%) and darker colors on the inside of shirt collar (87%) and the edge of sleeves (84%) were preferred. They favored more than one pocket on the upper arm and chest of the shirts (58%), narrower width around pant legs and hems than the current clothing (63%), self-controlled elastic waist (55%) and no cargo type pocket on the pants (45%). There were requirements to alleviate excessive heat stress in summer and to protect from the cold and wind in winter. Wrinkle-free (85%), anti-bacterial (78%), water-proof (75%), oil-proof (90%), and elastic (67%) textiles were preferred for Korean navy uniforms. These results will be applied to develop the next generation Korean navy uniforms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.838-849
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate use and purchase behavior of sleeping wear for summer. Subjects in this study were composed of 591 males and females aged from twenties to fifties, living in Taejon and Chongju. For data analysis, descriptive analysis, $\chi$$^2$-test, t-test, ANOVA, and factor analysis were used. The results are as follows. First, subjects used sleeping wear(a night gown and pajamas), and home wear(T-shirts and sweat suit with zippered top) with similar rates. The subjects, who are females, married, older and have professional jobs, owned sleeping wear such as a night gown and pajamas more than home wear. Also, the mean of using pajamas was the highest, and they were satisfied with them more than others who didn't wear them. Second, one-third of consumers purchased sleeping wear once a year in a specialty store. Consumers mainly searched for information regarding sleeping wear in the display section. Most consumers weren't influenced by others when they made their purchases. When consumers decided to purchase a product, they considered six criteria such as fabric/management, wearing/fitness, esthetic, service, symbolic status, and economic for evaluating. Among them, the factor wearing/fitness was considered the most important. These results imply that consumers would be conscious of sleeping wear even though sleeping wear and home wear are used interchangeably. In addition, consumer behavior concerning sleeping wear is different from their characteristics such as sex, age, occupation, the level of education, and marital state. Therefore, the markets with sleeping wear would be able to be segmented based on consumers’characteristics. Also, marketers should focus on distribution channels to reform the markets of sleeping wear, that is, they may offer products in specialty stores. Additionally, market managers would be able to concentrate on visual merchandising in stores in order to increase brand awareness and market share.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.5
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• pp.641-655
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• 2015

This study examined the ideal image and fashion of Korean women in the 1970s from a socio-cultural context. This study used information on the 1970s politics, economy, and culture provided by "Chosun Ilbo" and "Yosungjungang" as well as their presentation of the ideal image and fashion for Korean women in the 1970s. The ideal image and fashion of women were considered from the viewpoint of Hamilton's Meta-theory. The ideal image of women in the 1970s is divided into two aspects. The image from the traditional Confucian perspective was prevalent and restricted the lives of women to housekeeping chores. On the contrary, women have increasingly participated in society vis-$\grave{a}$-vis education and employment opportunities to present a progressive image of women. These aspects coexisted during the turmoil of social change. Progressive women had money to buy clothes because they were economically independent. These women embraced styles that included mini, midi, maxi, and bell-bottom pants. Further, pants were developed into different styles such as pant suits. T-shirts and blue jeans as casual wear were very popular among the youth. At the end of the 1970s, the tailored look and the big look (which copied men's clothing) were in fashion. Masculine styles such as wide shoulders with pads and neckties strengthened gender equality. Other fashions were dominated by feminine styles described as beautiful, sweet, and elegant that reflected Korean society's tendency to regard women as sex objects. Clothing that exposed the body highlights this sexual objectification aspect. Women wore miniskirts, hot pants, and bikinis because they wanted to enhance their sex appeal, propagating the view of women as sex objects. In conclusion, all aspects of society and culture were closely interrelated with a fashion style that reflected the values of those aspects.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.10
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• pp.1596-1610
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• 2010

This study investigates the studies of development of apparel basic pattern published in domestic journals and the trends in related studies. It also provides basic information on directions for future studies. The data was collected from the theses of domestic journals of the Korean Studies Information (KSI) which were published until December 31, 2009 and retrieved by a keyword related to the design of basic apparel patterns. The data was classified by the journals, the year of publication, research themes, research subjects, and research methods. They were analyzed to find out the overall distribution status and characteristics by time. The number of theses for the analysis was 73 published in 11 Journals total. Reviewing the theses by dividing the times into 7 Chronicles of 5 years in each term since the first thesis was published in 1968, it was found that more active research had been done as time went by. The theme of the theses in most cases was the composition of western apparel. As for items, most cases were on the study of bodice torso basic patterns. Since the period of 5-6 Chronicles, studies in the pattern of underwear, jacket, shirts blouse have gradually increased and the development of patterns using elastic materials are increasing as well. Women were dominant in the studies as subjects and so were young people of both sexes. Unlike the studies in earlier times that focused on the average figure, studies on developing patterns for various figure types have been made since the 5-6 Chronicles. However, there were limited studies on the figures of infants, male youth, seniors, and obese males. As for the research methods, there were common processes for validity testing of patterns through the measurement of the human figure, survey of customers and companies, designing pilot patterns, and wearing trials. The studies showed characteristic the differences in research methods according to the period.