• Title/Summary/Keyword: Sewing

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A Study on the Methodology of Excavated-Costumes - With a Focus on the Cases of Excavated Costumes from the Grave of Nor Su-ham(1516~1573)'s Family - (출토복식 보수방법에 관한 고찰 - 경주노씨 수함(1516~1573)공(公) 일가(一家) 출토복식 사례를 중심으로 -)

  • Chung, Young-Ran;Song, Mi-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.7
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    • pp.65-78
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    • 2013
  • This study aims to suggest the methodology for conservation of excavated costumes especially repair and restoration process. Early excavated costumes had not attracted attention from the field of academia and the public. So not many scholars, organization and society participated in the excavations but as its value has gotten more recognition, there has been a reversal in trend. And so many organizations have taken part in it. Excavating includes conservation processes such as washing, repair and restoring, and then it is published by reports or books after the process is complete. However the method of conservation has varied depending on the institution. In particular, repair and restore methods do not include anything specific details, and often times, only has descriptions of the before and after state, and so a more unified method needs to be suggested and shared. This study defined 'Conservation', 'Repair' and 'Restoration' and then applied it to the short history of Korean excavated-costumes. Then it suggested ways to repair and restore excavated-costumes in terms of construction, textile, and damage by the unpublished cases of excavated-costumes of Noh Su-ham(1516~1573)'s Family. It was also referred to repair and restoration process such as shaping correction, dyeing, supporting, sewing and after treatment by texts and pictures. Other contents such as a list of relics and its details, will be published through a report or a book. The whole process of conservation was in progress based on the ethical guidelines of conservation, 'Minimum intervention' and 'Reversibility'.

The Production Situations of Apparel Sewing Company and the Perceptions about the Mass Customization (의류봉제업체의 생산현황과 대량맞춤에 대한 인식)

  • Hong, Kyung-Hee;Lee, Ji-Soo;Kim, Young-Mi;Yang, Jin-Ok;Lee, Yoon-Jung
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.12 no.2
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    • pp.162-171
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    • 2010
  • This study aims to discuss what changes Korean clothing companies and manufacturers have undergone with production facilities moving abroad due to offshore outsourcing and examine what conditions the clothing manufacturers are facing and how the clothing companies recognize those manufacturers. For these purposes, in-depth interviews were conducted with 24 firms with annual production capacity of more than 200,000 pieces among clothing brands for the domestic market, clothing exporters and promotion agencies. Those interviewed firms were the companies who were found to produce more than 200,000 pieces of clothing per year, and the interview-based survey was conducted from December 18, 2008 to January 30, 2009. The key findings from this study are as follows; first, a high percentage of interviewed firms were producing only a small number of items in Korea with a large part of their production line transferred abroad or outsourcing all of their production abroad only with their headquarters in Korea. Second, many were employing contractors rather than their own factories. Third, when asked about the wage levels of clothing manufacturers, many of the clothing companies gave responses such as: 'They are just our contractor, so we respect their decision,' 'We don't know because it's none of our business,' or 'We don't know at all.' Fourth, when asked about the work environment of clothing manufacturers, the clothing companies gave responses such as: 'We know in part,' 'To our knowledge, they conform to the Labor Standards Law,' or 'We don't know at all.' Fifth, the production line of clothing manufacturers featured straight-line systems, specialization, pairing and compounding/mixing. Sixth, it was found that clothing companies had interest in mass customization but their preparations were not satisfactory.

Pattern Making of the Flared Skirt According to the Lower Body Somatotype of the 20's Women (20대 여성의 하반신 체형 유형에 따른 플레어스커트의 패턴 설계)

  • Lee, Youn-Soon;Ryu, Ji-Hyun;Kim, Kyung-A
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.10 no.5
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    • pp.660-667
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study was to modify a Flared Skirt for women according to the somatotype of lower body. The subjects for the wear test were 3 students, who were in $mean{\pm}1{\sigma}$ each somatotype. The results of this study are as follows: First, the Flared Skirt pattern was modified according to each type. The front waist line rising measurement proposed for type 1 and type 2 were 0.5cm, because of lower front silhouette with waist shape. The back waist line rising measurement proposed for type 2 was 1cm and type 3 was 0.5cm, because of lower back shape with hip. Second, the wave-height of nodes were regular at front and back in type 1. Also, the wave-height of nodes were evenly distributed side and center. The variation ratio of wave-height of back nodes were lower than existing pattern in type 2 and type 3. It means the variation ratio of wave-height of back nodes were regular in modification pattern. Altogether, modification patterns were more regular and lower than existing pattern in the number of nodes, the distribution ratio of nodes, the wave-height of node, the variation ratio of wave height of nodes.

A Study on Awareness and Responses of Korean Textile Firms against Korea-US FTA (한·미 FTA에 대한 한국섬유업체의 인식 및 대응방안에 관한 연구)

  • Ha, Ju-Young;Lee, Hyun-Ok;Ku, Yang-Suk
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.17 no.6
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    • pp.978-987
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    • 2015
  • This study investigates the awareness levels of Korean textile companies and develops appropriate response plans for the Korea-US Free Trade Agreement. The study also explores practical and realistic directions that the Korean textile industry must initiate. A qualitative study was conducted on 10 individuals for a more in-depth and demonstrative understanding that provide a better awareness on the responses of the textile industry towards the Korea-US FTA. The results of this study are as follows. First, the effect of the Korea-US FTA on the textile industry was insignificant. Second, industry members determined that fabric sectors and specialized fabrics (such as industrial materials and finished clothing products) could realize benefits through the Korea-US FTA. Third, industry members emphasize that the current focus is on FTAs by countries that have solidified their positions as manufacturing and sewing bases for the US and Europe (such as Southeast Asia) and not the Korea-US FTA. Based on results acquired through this study, the response measures to enter the U.S. market are as follows. First, the industry must develop high-performance and high value-adding direct export products suited to the needs of the US market in order to realize the benefits of the Korea-US FTA. Second, the industry and government must cooperate to actively host and participate in overseas trade shows that can actively open sales channels within the US. Third, the self-sustainability of textile companies must be cultivated through continuous and focused government training.

Garments Waterproofness Test Using Rain Tower System (인공강우시스템을 활용한 의복의 방수성능 평가)

  • Cha, Hee Chul;Park, Jun Ho;Lim, Jee Young;Shim, Huen Sup
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.17 no.6
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    • pp.1013-1019
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    • 2015
  • As the interest in leisure and health increases, the domestic outdoor wear industry becomes bigger. The waterproofness of fabrics does not ensure the waterproofness of garments because of the stitch holes during the sewing process even with the seam sealing tapes. Thus the water leakage often becomes a problem during the end use. Still companies use fabrics waterproofness data for garments marketing because they are simple to run the test, less expensive than the whole garment testing, and easy to achieve the quality control. In this study the rain tower system for evaluating the waterproofness of garments has been developed and the waterproofness of the selected waterproof and breathable garments in the market were tested. The rain tower was consisted of rain tower room, rainfall forming system and measurement system. Two different levels of rainfall can be simulated with this system(100l/m2/hr and 450l/m2/hr). Jackets in the market have been tested at two different rainfall conditions. The temperature and humidity data inside jackets didn't provide much information on the waterproofness at severe rainfall condition(450l/m2/hr, 1 hour). However, water leakage was detected on the cotton undershirt inside jacket. 5 out of 8 jackets passed the normal rainfall condition(100l/m2/hr, 30 minutes). The newly developed rain tower system was able to evaluate the waterproofness of the jacket seams. It is recommended the further study on the detailed test conditions for the end use of the waterproof and breathable garments.

The Development of Bicycle Wear for New Senior Women (뉴시니어 여성을 위한 자전거의류 개발)

  • Jung, Hee-Kyeong;Lee, Jeong-Ran
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.18 no.4
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    • pp.498-508
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    • 2016
  • The purpose of this study is to develop an aesthetic and functional bicycle wear for new senior women in their 50s and 60s. Based on the results of the survey, we developed bicycle wear that is friendly to bicycling posture and reflects the preference of new senior women. The results are as followed: First, emphasis is placed on the simple and functional design of the experimental wear consisting of jacket and pants. Jacket is different from the color scheme with the armhole princess line in order for the waistline to look slim. Pants are designed to hold the leg muscles tightly in order to help reduce the muscle fatigue on the bicycle ride. Second, cutting lines and coloring materials are used for the wearer to look slim and the safety of the wearer is planned to secure by inserting the reflective material along the cutting lines on the bicycle ride. Third, the pattern of the experimental wear is designed in consideration of the riding motion of the bicycle. Jacket is designed to have back length longer than front length as compared to the bicycle wears available on the market. Sewing lines in the armpit are designed to be eliminated in order to move the arms smoothly on the ride. Pants are designed to minimize the seam line in consideration of the movement of muscles and ligaments and the experimental wear is produced by combining the material with the functions of cool comfort and stretch.

Development of Female's Ordinary Hanbok Design with Korean Patchwork Image (조각보 이미지를 이용한 여성생활한복 디자인 개발)

  • Choi, Sun-Mi;Yang, Suk-Hyang
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.9 no.2
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    • pp.145-150
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    • 2007
  • Recently, active movements are occurring to reestablish our own traditional Korean images in all levels of society. One of them is about Ordinary Hanbok. Academics and business sectors are endeavoring to develop comfortable and Korean traditional Hanbok designs and popularize them as well. Based on the facts, the study focuses on developing Ordinary Hanbok designs for women by applying Korean traditional patchwork in order to present handmade, humane senses. First of all, the backgrounds, history and preference of Ordinary Hanbok are discussed through literatures and precedent studies as study methodology. Then, the study is analyzing the formative beauty of Korean traditional patchwork that contains emotions of women in the Chosun Dynasty. After that, it shows Ordinary Hanbok designs developed for women by using checks, free style, and yeoiju patterns of the fabrics dyed with clay and Chinese ink that recently attract people in particular. The results are like followings; First, the limits that excessive transformation of Hanbok may cause the lack of traditional beauty can be covered through using a variety of images of Korean traditional patchwork. Second, diverse face configuration of patchworks has very unique geometric forms so to be easily applied to modern Ordinary Hanbok designs. Third, the sewing technique of patchworks also plays a role as a design factor as important as face configuration. Fourth, utilizing fabric pieces may result in various unplanned face configuration and help resource recycling. Fifth, it is possible to coordinate Hanbok with other ordinary clothes that people normally wear on. Sixth, using patchworks images can encourage developing more active and refined designs added with traditional beauty. Seventh, natural dying and fabrics are eco-friendly, which is good for human health and environment. Finally, more studies should be done on design development based on precedent studies about Ordinary Hanbok. Also, it is important to foster social atmosphere and circumstances where people accept wearing Ordinary Hanbok as our natural culture.

Two vivax malaria cases detected in Korea (비무장지대 부근에서 발생한 양성 삼일열 말라리아 환자 2례)

  • Cho, Seung-Yull;Kong, Yoon;Park, Sill-Moo;Lee, Joon-Seung;Lim, Young-Ae;Chae, Seok-Lae;Kho, Weon-Gyu;Lee, Jong-Soo;Shim, Jae-Chul;Shin, Hak-Kyoon
    • Parasites, Hosts and Diseases
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    • v.32 no.4
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    • pp.281-284
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    • 1994
  • On .lune and .truly 1994, two cases of vivax wl,Blaria were consecutively diagnosed at the Yongsan Hospital, Chung-Ang University in Seoul. The first patient was a soldier sewing in western parts of the demilitarized zone (DMZ) while the second case was a resident of a village near DMZ. Neither patients had history of being abroad. Republic of Korea (ROK) has been free of malaria since the mid-1970s except for imported cases. The two ivfn malaria cases, together with an additional patient detected in 1993, occurred in relatively small areas near DMZ. This necessitated an epidemiologic surveillance. When medical records and blood smears in the areas were examined, no other cases were found. Of 7,723 mosquitoes collected by a black light trap for ho nights in June, 7,066 (91.5%) were Anopheles sinensis. In order to evaluate a significance of the recent malaria occurrence, a surveillance system should be operated in the areas.

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Characteristics of Machinery Noise (기계류의 소음 특성)

  • Kang, Dae-Joon;Gu, Jin-Hoi;Lee, Jae-Won;Kwon, Hyuk-Je;Park, Hyeong-Kyu;Kim, Ji-Yoon
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society for Noise and Vibration Engineering Conference
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    • 2008.04a
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    • pp.904-908
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    • 2008
  • As the various industrial production machinery has come into being by development of industrial technology, the productivity of the basic industrial production machinery has improved and the international competitiveness of the one of Korea has strengthened. However, at the same time, noise from various industrial production machinery disturbs the quiet environment. There are 35 kinds of the noise emission machinery defined in the noise and vibration control act according to the horse power and the number of machinery. These were classified in 1992 through investigation from 1990 to 1991, and the characteristic of the noise emission machinery may be different from the past one. So we need to investigate the characteristics of the noise emitted by machinery to control it rightly. Also we need to investigate the new noise emission machinery which has come into being recently. In this survey, we measured sound intensity of 32 noise emission machinery to calculate the sound power levels of those and investigated the characteristic of the sound power level of those according to the frequency. From the survey, we found that the forging machine, concrete pipe and pile making machine, sawing machine, etc. are the noisy machinery. And the automatic packing machine, sewing machine, centrifuge, etc. are the silent machinery. Also the generator, the concrete pipe and pile making machine, the printing machine, etc. emit the low frequency noise, and the molding machine, the stone cutter, the metal cutter, etc. emit the high frequency noise. Lastly, we intented to propose the proper guide line of classifying noise emission machinery.

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A Study on Purchasing Behavior and Fit Satisfaction on the Direct Imported-U.S. Apparel Brand and Products - Focusing on Korean Female University Students in 20s - (미국 직수입 의류 브랜드와 제품에 대한 구매 행동과 맞음새 만족도 조사 - 20대 한국 여대생을 대상으로 -)

  • Choi, Sun-Yoon;Chun, Jong-Suk
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.18 no.6
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    • pp.1127-1137
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    • 2010
  • As directly imported apparel brands are actively entering the domestic market, studies of the marketing aspects of these imported apparel products and their overall consumption trend have been done. However, studies of whether are not the directly imported apparel products provide Korean consumers with an appropriate fit are not as common. Therefore, this study investigates the satisfaction with and problems associated with the fit along with the recognition of and preference for directly imported US apparel brands. 100 female college students who purchased directly imported US apparel brands participated in a survey. The results of this survey showed that their recognition of, preference for, possession rate of and satisfaction with the directly imported US apparel brands tend to be high. The major purchasing motivations were the excellent 'design' and 'color' of the products. The subjects reported that they were satisfied with the quality of 'materials' and 'sewing condition'. However, they were not satisfied with the 'comfort' or the 'size'. Their level of satisfaction with the fit of these products differed depending on the specific item. Their level of satisfaction with the fit of T-shirts and knits was high, whereas the level for pants was relatively low. They complained mostly about the sleeve length and garment length of upper-body garments and coats. They were not satisfied with how the pants fit. The areas of dissatisfaction regarding the pants were the waist girth, the crotch length and the pants length.