• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.2
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• pp.68-87
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• 2017

The New Look, which Christian Dior presented in 1947, has been a source of inspiration for contemporary fashion designers, as well as designers for the House of Dior, and has a great influence on them. The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look and the New Look that Christian Dior House designers reinterpreted. The subject and the scope of this study were limited to Christian Dior and the New Look designed by Gianfranco $Ferr\acute{e}$, John Galliano, and Raf Simons who are regarded as worthy successors. The research method was a literature review on previous studies on Christian Dior and related literatures to examine the history of the House of Dior and the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look presented by Christian Dior. Then, an empirical study was conducted through the analysis of collection photographs from 1989 to 2016 that were gathered from the Mode et Mode and Hi Fashion, and websites (British Vogue, Firstview). The results of the study were as follows. First, the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look in 1947 used femininity to express an elegant and beautiful woman, structural property to render the contours of a woman's body, and innovation that changed the formal and gloomy social atmosphere in the post-war years. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look by Christian Dior were compared with those of the New Look made by designers for the House of Dior. The elegant femininity of Dior can be seen as gorgeous femininity, and sensual femininity, minimalistic femininity, structurality is represented by the spatial structurality of Dior and $Ferr\acute{e}$, the organic structure of Galliano, and the orthodox structure of Simons. Moreover, Dior's retro innovativeness appeared to be $Ferr\acute{e}^{\prime}s$ androgyny innovation, Galliano's deconstructive innovation, and Simons' romantic futuristic innovation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.98-115
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• 1999

As sports infiltrates each field of modern society and becomes familiar, sports wear was changed functionally and was introduced and enveloped into everyday dress. Modern sports wear has been the settled in everyday life deeply and become the clothes of life which are worn regardless of place, time and age. The aim of this paper was to clarify what kind of fashion of sports style would be given to the modern people. In this study, sports wear which has become everyday dress classified from a gender point of view. It was divided into masculine image, feminine image, and neutral image. Sports wear of masculine image generated a silhouette which emphasized the shoulder with the aspiration for youth and health. Wide shoulder was considered as the symbol of masculine beauty and the expression of healthy beauty. It was reflected well in body conscious look. And owing to the development of up-to-data materials, innovation of design, and the study of human body technology, the functional character was settled in the sports wear which showed masculine image. Sports wear of feminine image was represented fashion of body exposure, body feet with body conscious look, and romantic mode. This image was expressed fashion as comforts, pleasant, active design, materials, color, and romantic feminine beauty. Sports wear of neutral image was expressed into unisex clothes. This cloths have no difference in gender, age, and class. It was used as casual sports wear. In the 1960s, young generation participated in such street sports as street basketball and skate. They usually sore the sports wears of neutral image such as cycling, skating, and ski. In the materials of sports, the development of up-to-data material like lycra made the sayings lifelike, “up-to-data material is the second skin” It show that glamorous feminine image and strong masculine image coexisted. The contemporary concept of sportswear is no longer limited to those clothes for sports found in such places like tennis court or swimming pool. Now, the sports wear become more like casual activity wear all classes of people can enjoy in their life regardless of where they are, when they wear, and even how old they are.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.7 s.98
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• pp.76-88
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• 2005

The aim of this study is to define the concept of the matchless, and its social and cultural origins. I shall also define the different types of Matchless style, the respective characteristics of each style, and the distinguishing features of this style in domestic street fashion. In order to do this, 1 have referred to several published studies and a number of Web-sites of Korean fashion information companies for my research. The results of this study are the following; 1. The concept of matchless is a positive way of self-expression by coordination, created by consumers who attach great importance to their image and to developing their individual style. Also, this concept constitutes a new approach to code which reanalyzes existing styles with a new sensitivity. 2. The social & cultural origins of matchless are the expansion of fear of war and terror, and economic depression, the extension of the 5-day workweek, interest in 'Well-being', and the phenomena of cultural diversity. 3. The types of Matchless are Style Matchless, Theme Matchless, Texture Matchless, Season Matchless, and Complex-Layered Matchless. 4. The distinguishing features of Matchless in street fashion are the distinction of formal & Casual wear's Matchless, the creation of a new Look in Sports & Casual wear's Matchless, the development of a new coordinated, layered look, the immense popularity of Denim, the new fashionable versions of Military style, and the renaissance of the Romantic Feminine Look.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.110-127
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• 2015

This study probed into the fashion styling of modern girls who led fashion and revealed power of woman as the center of modernization in Korea. Methods included the theoretical study based on fashion related newspaper articles at the time, specialized publications, advance researches, and internet data and the empirical study that involved contents analysis centering on visual data, expert evaluation, and styling development and presentation. The image of Korean modern girl analysis found in the order of modern image, elegant image, classic image, mannish image, romantic image. The aesthetic characteristics could be classified into sensual classicism, modern elegance, feminist epicenism, and romantic simplicity. The theme was 'Retro Modern' and a total of 4 styles were applied. 'Progressive Tradition' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of sensual classicism and it gave a modern reinterpretation of the seamless one-piece skirt which is the modified Korean clothes of Korean modern girls. 'Luxe Beauty' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of modern elegance, and it developed the long and slim style which was popular in the 1930's in a trendy way. 'Dressy Avant-garde' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of feminist epicenism, and it suggested the mannish style Western clothes that Korean modern girls wore by following recent fashion trend. 'Minimal Couture' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of romantic simplicity and it presented the garçonne look which was popular in the 1920's by following recent trend.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.69-78
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• 2008

A new coinage which calls a modern was appeared variously by values, taste, feature of lifestyle and the meaning of a new coinage has influence in the change of lifestyle. Particularly a popular star is a person who situates in the center of a new coinage, his role, behavior, and appearance have great influence in the birth of a new coinage. He is a fashion leader as well as the object of fashion imitation to the new generation being sensitive for fashion. As his fashion is appeared with important fashion icon in fashion market, fashion companies have developed actively star marketing marking him as an advertising model. Therefore, because the fashion trends of a popular star introduce season's fashion trends and can be important factor forecasting fashion behavior of consumer, this study aims at analysis for fashion trends of a popular star including a public entertainer. The dates of this study were collected by TV drama, internet, and magazines, etc. The fashion trends were divided into feminine fashion trend, sexy fashion trend, tomboy fashion trend, and retro fashion trend. Feminine fashion trend was based on feminity but it was classified in masculine look, simple look, chic look, and natural & romantic look according to the standard of a transformation of feminine image. Sexy fashion trend was divided into two sexy images according to the method wrapping oneself in a dress and the method exposing a specific body part. Tomboy fashion trend could be the immature boyish style which concealed bust or hip or pelvis symbolizing feminity. Retro fashion trend could be style being based on 1980's style and Y line. Fashion items as leggings, baby doll dress, tunic style, dot pattern, garsonne look were come into fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.28
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• pp.239-253
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• 1996

The purpose of this dissertation is to exam-ine the hippie look which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the early 90s, in re-lation to the hippie style in 60s and cultural restoration. in order to investigate the re-lationship this dissertation studies the trans-feral phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother fashion in the basis of social and clutural theories. hippie culture is the anti-culture which appeared in America in the late 60s, it tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. First of all to examine the inner symbolic meaning and outer shape of the hippie style I divided the characteristics of the hippies into ideology social value and attitude on sex. in the aspect of ideology the hippie show strong subjectivity while mother culture shows ob-jectivity. in social value the hippie has the resisting chaacteristics while mother culture has the conformative characteristics. In the aspect of sex the hippie tries to break the fixed idea of mother culture. Hippie culture as anti-culture is symbolically expressed in hippie style fashion which is dif-ferent from mother fashion in shape. There-fore the inner meaning and the outer shape of the hippie style shows strong characteristics of anti-fashion. Hippie style as anti-fashion has an effect on high fashion in the late 60s and the early 70s and on hippie look which is restored in 90s. however hippie-look in 90s is a mother-fashion in which all symbolic mean-ings of the hippie style are weakened and the only outer shape of hippie style is presented and suggested. It doesn't show any cultural backgrounds ideology social value and new attitude on sex of the hippies. The transferal phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother-fashion is summarized as follows. First in the process of tranference to highfashion in 60s and 70s and hippie-look in 90s the resistance of the hippie style is weakened and only suggested through the outer look. Second the hippie style which reappeared in the high fashion and mother fashion in 90s are layered look military uniform mode flower print grunge look romantic look peasant look ethnic look gypsy style handicraft ornaments working suit style handicraft ornaments working suit style and the use of the see-through cloth. Third the fact that the popular and high fashion were influenced by anti fashion in 60s proves filter-up theory in fashion adaption theory. As I examined before the ideology of the hippies are faded in high fashion in 60s-70s and hippie-look in 90s. The symbolic meaning of the hippie style is also weakened and only presented as a fashion trend.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.734-746
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the influence of women's self-image on image evaluation of clothing self-image, and on their selection of clothing styles by situations. The subject of investigation was 500 women above 20 living in Daegu. 6 types of clothing styles including classic, casual, elegant, dramatic, romantic, and mannish and 7 social situations including shopping near house, shopping in a busy street, cultural center, wedding ceremony, dinning out, alumni meeting or fraternity meeting, and couples meeting were used for this study. Data analysis was performed using SPSS package, which included factor analysis, reliability test, cluster analysis, ANOVA, and X²-test. The results are summarized as follows. 1. Adult women could be classified into 4 groups such as the passive mannish, the passive feminine, the active mannish, and the active feminine by their self-images. 2. There were different opinions on each clothing style by self-image. In the image of each clothing style by self-image groups, the passive feminine group considered classic style having effect to make people look tall, mature and elegant style to make people look active and charming. Also, they rated the boldness of dramatic style and the activeness of mannish style high. The active feminine group estimated the boldness of mannish style high. 3. Selection of clothing style differed according to various situations. More formal the situation was, more classic style tended to be selected and for less formal situation, mannish style was selected.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.117-131
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is for affirmation about fashion and film industry has very important relationship through the image of film fashion in 1990. To this processing , films in 1990 were analyzed by the back ground, time place, persons's status are expressed in period movie but the person's characters, development of story mood in contemporary movies. The contents of this study are as follows : First, film fashion which was related mass fashion design and concept development and fashion designers as constume services were considered. Second, the change of star image through the 20th century. The roles and new image of film fashion in period movies and contemporary movies in 1990 were searched. Third, proposal and results were confirmed for expansion of fashion industry and film industry together. Finally, from the latter of 20th century, a lot of fashion designers have participated in film works than before, So the images of films were sued and reflected as new mass trend . Especially retro-romantic mood was expressed in fashion trend due to period movie fashion. Also minimal city look and elegance glamourous look are represented cause of contemporary movie fashion. Therefore, the cooperation between film productions and fashion professionals is very important for promotion of Korean culture development in 21st century, 'the century of image'.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.13-29
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to analyze eroticism shown in the fashion of Lady Gaga's music video. This study methods taken theoretical consideration and then was classified eroticism based on previous studies and was analyzed costumes from Lady Gaga's music video. The results of this study were as follows: Avant-garde style exaggerates shoulders, hips, a hat or uses metal and glossy material, tape, leather and it was expressed into emphasizing or baldly exposing breast. Primitive style was expressed in ethnic style and animal patterns, lingerie look with drastic, bald exposing fashion. Romantic style was expressed using rococo style costume, frill, pleats, decoration and was produces eroticism with see-through look or costume fitting to the body. Sportive style expresses a healthier and erotic image using tight costume in yellow, blue and black while exposing belly and legs. Janus-faced style was expressed by dressing up like a man or using the method of attachment and exposure in clergy's costume. Humorous style was expressed by emphasizing parts of body or costume itself. As examined in the above, Lady Gaga was expressed various eroticism images in her music video and is builds her own sexually appealing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.129-139
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• 1999

This paper analyzes the trend of fashion and make-up in 1990s and their relevancy to each other. Based on the chronological analysis, we propose a new category for the fashion and make-up trend in 1990s, which is 1) traditional ecology period(1990∼1994), 2) versatile trial or decadent period(1995∼1997), and 3) soft landing period based on the minimal neo-ecology and romanticism(1998∼2000). Between 1990 and 1994, there was no differentiation in seasons. It appeared that spring/summer and fall/winter trend have had no big differences. At the beginning in 1990s, it was basically based on ecology concept that emphasizes the natural image. However after 1995, seasonal differences in trend are appeared and there were various make-up designs. The trends of spring/summer in 1996 could be named as color revolution period that emphasized the unique and individual expression of each person. In 1997, black, pastel, and brown colors were the result of reinterpreting the classic and sexy images of 1960s to natural and modernistic image of 1997. Purple color started to be introduced to us. In 1998, pastel tone, pink, and purple color expresses the glamorous look based on the romantic feminism. S/S of 1999 is mainly represented by minimalism and avant garde. For fall/winter trends, brown color lines make-up comes to mix with romantic image and developed into wine, orange, neon colors in 1995 and 1996. These colors were the symbol of property and sentiment. Gold make-up emphasizing the eye area was the tendency of that period. In 1997, the fear of coming end of century was expressed as decadent image. At that time, ethnic and romantic image appeared with vivid color lines, gold, red and violet. In 1998, romanticism was popular again with modernism and ethnic mood. It expressed the romantic elegant image. The trend has returned to the ecology mood again in 1999. This ecology is somewhat different from the previous ecology. It adds a sofistaiced feeling and sportic fashion. To express natural and sportic image, they choose pink blush. In coming 2000 as a new millennium, the yellow color will be main the stream to express vision, dream, and happiness in both fashion and make-up as an accent color. The minimal design and minimal tools will be used for the design and make-up, respectively. In addition, the fusion concept will dominate the fashion and make-up industry in the globalized and boundariless age. Through this paper, we hope that make-up can be accepted as a part of total fashion in its relationship with other elements such as shoes, clothes and accessory and that it can be considered as a independent art that has direct influence on people and industry.