• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.545-554
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• 2017

This study is concerned with the stability of liquid crystal forming emulsifier with localized depend on change of pH using liquid crystal forming agent of advanced company. The liquid crystal emulsifying agent was localized using Sugar Crystal-LC (bio-tech Co., Ltd., Korea), and comparative samples were measured by using Nikkomulese-LC (Nikko Camicarls, Japan) and Alacel-LC (Croda Camicarls, UK). Liquid crystal formation was confirmed microscopically to show the formation of liquid crystal structure at acidic (pH=4.2), neutral (pH=7.0) and alkaline (pH=11.7). The particles of the liquid crystal were observed with a polarizing microscope according to the stirring speed. The stirring time was all the same for 3 minutes with a homo-mixer, and the stirring speed was increased to 2500 rpm, 3500 rpm and 4500 rpm to observe the liquid crystal state. As a result, it was found that the Korean surfactant was more stable and clear liquid crystal structure was formed than the two foreign acids. In the case of the UK in acid zone, the emulsion particle size was uniform and unstable. In the case of Japanese surfactant, it has similar structure and performance to those of localized Korean. It was found that Korean surfactant had superior emulsifying performance in acid zone compared with foreign products. It is possible to develop various formulations such as liquid crystal cream, lotion, eye cream, etc. using Sugar Crystal-LC emulsifier as an application cosmetic field, and it is expected that it can be widely applied as emulsifying technology for skin care external application in the pharmaceutical industry and the pharmaceutical industry as well as the cosmetics industry.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.181-187
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• 2007

In this study, we measured the anti-oxidative activity of Cirsium setidens and investigated its effect on UVA-induced MMP-1 expression in human dermal fibroblats. And then we examined possible improvement in skin elasticity by topical treatment with fomular including Cirsium setidens extract. The ethanol extract of C. setidens showed free anion radical scavenging effect(87.47 % at 1 mg/mL) and superoxide anion radical scavenging effect(61.71 % at 1 mg/mL) in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, respectively. At the concentration of 100 ${\mu}g/mL$, C. setidens extract showed 95.54% inhibition on lipid peroxidation of linoleic acid. UVA-induced MMP-1 expression in human dermal fibroblasts was reduced to 54.69 % by treatment with 100 ${\mu}g/mL$ of C. setidens extract. A human clinical study, in which oil-in-water emulsion with C. setidens extract was topically applied, showed significant increase in skin elasticity. These results suggest that the C. setidens extract can be effective anti-aging ingredient for cosmetics applications.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.133-139
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• 2014

Oil-in-water nanoemulsions were prepared in the system of water/Span 80-Tween 80/long-chain paraffin oil via the PIC (phase inversion composition) method. With the increase of preparation temperature from $30^{\circ}C$ to $80^{\circ}C$, the diameter of emulsion droplets decreased from 120 nm to 40 nm, proving the formation of nanoemulsions. By varying the HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) of mixed surfactants, we found that there was an optimum HLB around 12.0 ~ 13.0 corresponding to the minimum droplet size. The viscosity of nanoemulsions clearly increased with droplet volume fraction, f, but the droplet size slightly increased. Significantly, at ${\phi}{\leq}0.3$, the size distribution of nanoemulsions kept constant more than 2 months. These results proved that the viscous paraffin oil can hardly be dispersed by the PIC method at $30^{\circ}C$, but the increase in preparation temperature makes it possible for producing monodisperse nanoemulsions. Once the nanoemulsion is produced, the stability against Ostwald ripening is outstanding due to the extremely low solubility of the liquid paraffin oil in the continuous phase. The highly stable nanoemulsions are of great importance in cosmetic applications.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.1 s.55
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• pp.7-15
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• 2006

In this study, the effect of oligopeptide ($Oligosproutin^{(R)}$) from sprouted black rice was evaluated for possible improvement in skin elasticity. We examined the changes in gene expression on oligopeptide-treated HaCaT cells using DNA microarray analysis. As a result, oligopeptide treatment showed a differential expression ratio of more than 2-fold : 745 genes were activated and 1011 genes were repressed. One of the most interesting findings is a 2-fold increase in hyaluronan synthase 2 (HAS 2) gene expression by oligopeptide. We also found that oligopeptide increased cell proliferation, HAS2 mRNA expression and intracellular ROS scavenging activity in HaCaT cells. A human clinical study which oil-in-water emulsion with oligopeptide was topically applied showed significant increase in skin elasticity. These results suggest that the sprouted black rice oligopeptide ($Oligosproutin^{(R)}$) can be effective anti-aging ingredient for cosmetics.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.38 no.6
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• pp.373-380
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• 2008

In order to develop optimal formulation and iontophoresis condition for the transdermal delivery of levodopa, we have evaluated the effect of two permeation enhancers, ethanol and oleic acid in microemulsion, on transdermal delivery of levodopa. In vitro flux studies were performed at $33^{\circ}C$, using side-by-side diffusion cell and full thickness hairless mouse skin. Current density applied was $0.4\;mA/cm^2$ and current was off after 6 hours application. Levodopa was analysed by HPLC at 280 nm. The o/w microemulsions of oleic acid in buffer solution (pH 2.5 & 4.5) were prepared using oleic acid, Tween 80 and ethanol. The existence of microemulsion regions were investigated in pseudo-ternary phase diagrams. Contrary to our expectation, cumulative amount of levodopa transported from microemulsion (pH 2.5) for 10 hours was similar to that from aqueous solution in all delivery methods (passive, anodal and cathodal). When pH of the micro-emulsion was pH 4.5, cumulative amount of levodopa transported for 10 hours increased about 40% (anodal) to 50% (cathodal), when compared to that from aqueous solution. Flux from pH 4.5 microemulsion showed higher value than that from pH 2.5 in all delivery methods. These results seem to indicate that electroosmosis plays more dominant role than electrorepulsion in the flux of levodopa at pH 2.5. The effect of ethanol on iontophoretic flux was studied using pH 2.5 phosphate buffer solution containing 3% or 5% (v/v) ethanol. Flux enhancement was observed in passive and anodal delivery as the concentration of the ethanol increased. Without ethanol, cathodal delivery showed higher flux than anodal delivery. Anodal delivery increased the cumulative amount of levodopa transported 1.6 fold by 5% ethanol after 10 hours. However, in cathodal delivery, no flux enhancement of levodopa was observed during current application and only marginal increase in cumulative amount transported after 10 hours was observed by 5% ethanol. These results seem to be related to the decrease in dielectric constant of the medium and the lipid extraction of the ethanol, which decrease the electroosmotic flow, and thus decrease the flux. Overall, the results provide important insights into the role of electroosmosis and electrorepulsion in the transport of levodopa through skin, and provide some useful informations for optimal formulation for levodopa.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.121-128
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• 2010

We investigated the effects of skin hydration and composition analysis of proteoglycan (chia seed polymer) produced from chia (Salvia hispanica) seed. The result showed that proteoglycan of chia seeds is composed of galactose (46.8 %), glucuronic acid (27.1 %), rhamnose (8.7 %), xylose (7.6 %), glucose (4.9 %), fructose (2.3 %), mannose (1.8 %), arabinose (0.9 %) and the amount of proteins contained is 31.3 mg/g with the constituent amino acid compositions (mg/g) of Asp (1.9), Glu (3.6), Ser (0.9), Gly (3.6), Thr (0.8), Arg (1.0), Ala (2.0), Tyr (0.4), Cys (4.8), Val (1.1), Phe (0.5), Ile (0.6), Leu (0.9). The molecular weight of the proteoglycan measured by GPC (Gel Permeation Chromatography) is the range of 100,000~250,000 Da and the average molecular weight is 170,000 Da. The moisturizing effects and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) of chia seed polymer in cosmetic products (O/W emulsion) were studied in vivo. Chia seed polymer showed good skin hydration effects when compared with sodium hyaluronate which is a common moisturizer. Taken all together, chia seed polymer should be a very useful cosmetic ingredient as a moisturizer and a protecting agent from various skin irritations.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.35-41
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• 2005

We investigated the effects of skin hydration and anti-irritation of exopolysaceharide (GF-glucan) produced from submerged culture of Grifola frondosa. The moisturizing effects and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) of GF-glucan in cosmetic products (O/W emulsion) were clinically studied. GF-glucan showed good skin hydration effects when compared with sodium hyaluronate which is a commonly using moisturizer. The skin protective effects of GF-glucan against sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) were also found. Twice a day application of the CF-glucan to skin reduced local inflammation remarkably. Irritant reactions were assessed by various aspects of skin function, erythema (skin color reflectance), hydration (electrical capacitance) and TEWL. In the human skin test, 5-day treatment of the GF-glucan was found to reduce SLS-induced skin erythema and Improve bier regeneration. Taken all together, GF-glucan should be a very useful cosmetic ingredient, as a moisturizer, and a protecting agent for various skin irritations.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 2021

With increasing interest in the effectiveness and safety of sunscreen worldwide, research on the development of new inorganic sunscreen is also gaining momentum. In the present study, non-nano sized needle type zinc oxide, which can meet the regulation of nano-material as a recent problem, has been synthesized and surface-modified with cetyl alcohol to obtain needle type zinc oxide powder. Here, we also investigated their physical properties and evaluated their potential application as sunscreens. As a result of the experiment, the sunscreen with needle type zinc oxide powder, which was non-nano, showed similar UV-protection properties and transparency compare to that of 40nm size zinc oxide. It was further confirmed that the UV blocking effect was significantly increased when the needle type zinc oxide dispersion was applied to the sunscreen. Therefore, although the needle type zinc oxide is non-nano (200 nm) material, it has the potential to be applied to the product as an excellent transparency (improvement of whiteness), UV protection efficacy and smooth texture.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.342-349
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• 2018

In this study, the physicochemical properties, emulsifying capacity, moisture content and cytotoxicity of the composite material produced by transesterification reactions of the olive oil (olive oil esters) were investigated for cosmetic applications. Olive oil esters with short (S) and long (L) reaction times were studied. From the TLC-image analysis, composition ratios of the olive oil esters S were found to be 5.2, 24.1, 46.4, and 21.9% for mono-, di-, tri-glyceride, and fatty acid ethyl ester, respectively. Those of the olive oil esters L were 4.1, 24.7, 40.6, and 28.8% for mono-, di-, tri-glyceride, and fatty acid ethyl ester, respectively. The iodine value, acid value, saponification value, unsaponified matter, refractive index, and specific gravity were determined and purity tests were also carried out and normalized to establish standards and testing methods for using olive oil esters in cosmetics. To evaluate their emulsifying capacities, the O/W emulsion was prepared without surfactants and the formation of the emulsified particles were confirmed. After 5 days of applying the olive oil esters to human skin, the skin moisture retention was improved by 13.1% from the initial state. For the evaluation of toxicity on human skin cells, the olive oil esters showed 90% or more of the cell viability at $0.2-200{\mu}g/mL$. These results suggested that olive oil esters can be applied as natural/non-toxic ingredients to cosmetics industries.