• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.28-46
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• 2010

Variety and individuality are characteristic of consumer in modern society. For the necessity of new designed men's formal suit is on the rise with advance of party culture and change of wedding style. In addition to growing numbers of Korean grooms are getting more interested in make themselves well-groomed on the wedding ceremony. The purpose of this study is to develop the men's formal suit pattern for right fit and better style for Korean grooms. In order to find out how to modify their fit, comparison among the existing patterns was necessary. In this study we proposed new patterns of men's formal suit, a morning coat, a tail coat, tuxedoes, director's suit, three-peaces suit, navy blazer. Considering the results of this study, developed patterns were altered to fit better and to smarter. They were well graded in waistline position, shoulder shape, back princess line shape. Also they were best to move around sleeve and bodice. And the developed patterns were altered to make armhole narrower to make bodice length shorter, to make bodice slimmer. The researcher's pattern's were made up into garments using wool 100%, silk 100%. According to verify the improvements and grade better in both appearance and comport, it will be to take the lead men's formal dress culture and expand the base of popular consume for men's formal wear.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.826-837
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• 2012

Recently, hats have been used more frequently as an accessory, contributing to the general image of clothes in men's collections. This study compared and analyzed the frequency and styles of hat usage in men's brand collections according to the collections' images. Types of hats and their frequency of usage in men's clothes were analyzed among 857 collections from 74 brands between S/S 2006 and F/W 2012. This study also examined the relationship between clothes image and type of hats used. Hats were used in 622 out of 857 collections, and 24 different types of hats were used. In 67 collections, hats were used in at least 71% of clothes. The most frequently used hat was the fedora, followed in frequency by the beanie, cap, bowler, and high hat. The styles of hats in collections varied depending on seasons. In S/S season collections, fedoras were often used, while beanies were more common during the F/W season. This study analyzed styles of hats used in formal, casual, uniformed, and deformed images. Beanies and fedoras were frequently used for the formal image; fedoras, beanies, and plat caps were often used for the casual image; more than 3 types of hats were used together for the uniformed image; and design hats and hats in various styles were used for the deformed image. The results show that hats of various styles were used in collections to express the image of clothes.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.80-80
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• 2001

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.117-130
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• 1997

The purpose of this study were to identify the design elements and the changing flow of advertisement from 1970's to 1990's by using content analysis of men's magazines. Finding were as followed; First through the analysis of men's wear advertisement in magazine it was found that the closer to 1990's the more various men's wear styles and backgrounds were advertized. These were more image oriented than product oriented. Since 1980 the advertisement about the licenced and the imported brands have been increased and the serial advertisement has shown more fre-quently than the 1-page advertisement since 1990's ; Second two piece suit was dominated in men's wear during 1970's and 1980's From 1990's this style was decresed in stead combi suit was increased. In 1970's the X silhouette was infashion and the y and the X silhouette was in fashion and the y and X sillhouette were increased during 1980's . The H silhouette was dominated in 1990's The brighter and the more various colors appeared in 1990's than in 1970's. The brighter and the more various colors appeared in 1990's than in 1970's The solid pattern was the main flow in men's wear however the stripes and the the check patterns were added in 1990's Third single breasted jacket style with two buttons and tailored collar was in fashion during 1970's . The length of the v-zone was shorter than half at this time however it was lengthened in 1980's . Also the the length of the jacket was lengthened. In 1990's the double breasted jacket style and two buttons were increased. The length of the v-zone and jacket were also lengthened.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.6
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• pp.60-73
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• 2011

Men's fashion has not much changed due to the pervasive patriarchy Because of the change of gender roll and attitude towards one's appearance and fashion, men began to express themselves with fashion in the late 90's. The purpose of this study is to categorize men's image and their fashion styles from Korean TV dramas to provide informations for predicting men's fashion trend in rapidly changing market. Through the analysis of three dramas with 30% or more of audience rating by all age groups from January to July, 2009, nine distinctive male images were selected and their styles were analyzed; silhouette, details, materials, color, accessories, and hair-style. The results are as follows: In the past holding neat and straight line silhouettes but today shows tight silhouette. In color and detail, the use of brilliant chromatic colors, use of hight saturation colors, big and brilliant pattern, ruffles, frills, beads, knitwear, mix matched new composed materials, and light materials are dominant. While short and simple shape of hair-styles were predominant in the past, now we see more varied hair length. Not only that, variety of perms and colors are showed on TV screens. Hence, the results show that a lot of radical change has happened in the men's fashion, and marketing propositions that reflects this change in men's fashion market are requested along with trendy emotional product development and coordination proposals, and finally calls for more multilateral study and market search of male consumers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.222-239
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• 2021

In this study, six mainland Chinese designer brands-Xander Zhou, Sankuanz, Sean Suen, Feng Chen Wang, Pronounce, and Angel Chen-were selected that had their works presented at both Chinese and global fashion shows between 2016 and 2021. By analyzing the design characteristics of each brand, it is possible to understand the style characteristics and trends of Chinese menswear designs. A case study approach was adopted utilizing literature data, whereby 1663 photos were collected from the fashion information website POP (www.pop-fashion.com). Changes in Chinese men's image and the menswear market were identified. The design characteristics of modern Chinese menswear are as follows. First, the results from analyzing the target brands show that each brand has a distinct personality. Compared with the traditional or formal style, urban casual and sports styles (based on street style) account for a larger proportion. Second, the boundaries between different styles are becoming ambiguous, and contrasting styles are harmoniously expressed by breaking down boundaries through changes and combinations of colors, materials, and details. Third, after examining the overall trend, 2018 was a watershed point, after which the design trend has changed from either conservative or exaggerated to a practical and everyday style, demonstrating a genderless trend.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.102-114
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• 2000

The works of the Futurism were developed along with manifestos and statement in publishing. Futurist aesthetic and ideological agenda on futurist fashion displayed in manifestos on clothes. Futurist fashion propagated in consummate Futurist style through the written manifesto. The Futurists anticipated much of modern fashion phenomenon. In Futurist Men's Clothing, men's clothing is aggressive, agile, dynamic, simple and comfortable, hygienic, gay, luminous, volatile, asymmetric and variable. In Futurist Manifesto on Woman's Clothing, woman is now a principal agent of revolt, a walking synthesis of the audacious, performance-oriented aesthetic of the futurist universe. For Futurist woman's clothing they claimed ingenuity, daring, and economy. The Futurist Manifesto of Italian Hat was continued with their provocative style and radical ambition. Their innovation will rescue a lagging Italian expert and restore the Italian male to his former Iatin Vigor. Speed, dynamic, utility, and funtionality are the main characters. In Futurist Manifesto of Italian Cravat, Futurist cravat is called Anti-cravatta, which is anti-traditional style and made of unconventional materials. In general, the Futurist argued for clothes that promoted simple and functionality. These Futurist fashion project were invention of the new style, avant-garde style, in daily wear and were realized for the renewal of taste in clothing design as a modernizing factors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.113-127
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• 2004

This study examined the trend of pattern which appeared throughout men's clothing fashion magazine from 1999 to 2002 and the influence which the demographic characteristic have on the sensibility dimension of pattern and the preference degree of kinds of pattern. The results of study were as follows. 1) The pattern which was used most frequently on recent men's clothing was a length stripe, and the representation technique which was used most frequently on recent men's clothing was the technique of a geometric expression. 2) The pattern which men and women preferred most out of ten kinds of patterns-length stripe, width stripe, oblique stripe, check, square, waterdrop, paisley, flower of style shape, flower of realistic shape, flower of shape-was a length stripe. 3) The sensibility dimension of pattern image was composed of fascination, dignity, daring, gentleness, and reality. 4) Because sensitivity dimension and kinds of pattern were significant according to the distinction of sex, vocation, academic career, income, this study can conclude the demographic characteristic have an influence on sensitivity dimension and kinds of pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.123-135
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• 2002

The purposes of this study were to observe the influences of Salon culture on fashion, and to understand of 17th-l8th century's costume from a different point of view. The literatures about Salons and costume in 17th-l8th century were considered for this study Salon culture had influenced on women's and men's fashion from 17th 18th century as results. The influences of salon culture on fashion were as follows; At first, it caused radical feminism for women's dress. Women for this period chose their dress to maximize their breast and tight their waist radically to express their beauty. Women were realized as sexual being for the period, then, this caused feminism. The second influence was the Andorgynous of men's dress. Men maximized beautiful decoration, body line on their dress and showed feminine dress style. which caused Andorgynous of men's dress as men and women mutually created new beauty effect. Salon had influences on the birth of new feminine culture and fashion, supplying individual self-control and freedom to women not as aesthetic objects.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.31-41
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• 2013

By researching Western equestrian clothing, this study investigated the process in which styles of menswear are introduced into women's sportswear. In addition to women's equestrian clothing shown in paintings and illustrations kept in overseas museums, this study also analyzed books addressing 200 years of Western dress style history, from the late $17^{th}$ century to the $19^{th}$ century. The analysis data present the design characteristics of women's equestrian clothing according to different periods. A total of 21 works were used as research data: two from periods prior to the $17^{th}$ century, three from the $17^{th}$ century, ten from the $18^{th}$ century, and six from the $19^{th}$ century. The research results show that items of trendy menswear were commonly used in women's equestrian clothing during the late $17^{th}$ century - to be specific, in all forms of clothing worn on the upper body, including coat and cravat, tricomhat, and accessories. Women's equestrian clothing after the $18^{th}$ century took the form of menswear. However, the uniform was also generally worn with a fitted, tailored redingote on top of the robe, along with pants. In the $19^{th}$ century, women's equestrian clothing became longer in length, like men's styles. The uniform gradually lost volume, and the jacket became shorter and narrower. In addition, the drawers were replaced with pants that came down to the ankles, which were similar to men's trousers. Breeches also became knee - length, thus following the style of menswear. These results show that women's equestrian clothing, worn during horseback riding, a sport previously enjoyed by Western aristocrats, were similar to what men wore. Also, in contrast to the distinct differences seen between men's and women's daily clothing, the equestrian uniforms of women showed a tendency to follow the clothing style of men.