• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.41-55
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• 2016

This study analyzed the influence of other customers' perception (similarity, physical attraction, and suitable behavior) of the fashion retail environment on male customers' store attitude and behavioral response. In addition, comparing the effect of store type, this study comprehensively provides the effect of other customers' perception in fashion retailing. In order to investigate research questions, an online survey was conducted and 220 responses were analyzed using AMOS 18.0. The results of this research were as follow. First, the dimensions of physical attraction and suitable behavior of other customers influenced toward target customer's fashion store attitude. Second, the effect of store attitude towards the perceiver's behavioral response was proven. Third, customers established their store attitude by other customers' physical attraction in luxury stores, while others' behavior was meaningful in SPA store. Fourth, other customer's similarity dimension did not influence the male customers' store attitude. This study contributes to a comprehensive understanding of other customer's effect in fashion stores by examining different store types. In addition, managers may establish a customer portfolio strategy and training based on this research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.379-390
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• 2005

Every Society has it's own ideology and lifestyle and these form its unique aesthetic experience or values. In the paper observing recent, especially in 1980s and 1990s. Korean street fashion that is one way of expressing their values and lifestyle, the aesthetic values related to the morality have been studied. Through the studies using the cafes of Korean street fashion style we can understand the change of morality and fashion style according to the change of socio-cultural environments more deeply. For study methods documentary study and case study were executed. Morality related clothing were defined in detail through documentary studies and for analysis of street fashion from 1980s and 1990s the cases from 'Mut' and 'Ceci' magazines as well as the articles from Chosunilbo, Dongailbo and Maeilkyungje were looked over one by one. By understanding the intrinsic meanings and formal features of resent Korean street fashion, the direction for future fashion designing could be guided, which could satisfy consumers' needs in the rapidly changing world situation. Followings are the results of the study. First, morality of clothing could be defined in detail regarding modesty and extravagance. Modesty could be directly related to exposure of body and norms for appearances and extravagance to fashion oriented, luxury goods or brand name oriented and spending. Second, the exposing body has been accepted and permitted by public even with criticism more easily but they were less generous to values about norms regarding clothing. Third, the change of morality related to modest has happened earlier than the change of morality related to extravagance, which has begun very recently in 2000s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.6
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• pp.122-134
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• 2016

With the advent of the new political regime of Jong Un Kim, North Korea is undergoing many changes, with its main motivation being economic growth. This study aims to identify the changes in clothing in North Korea under the new political climate. The research conducted a review on literature and empirical study. For literature review, books and papers from studies related to North Korea have been reviewed. For the empirical part, interviews with diverse class of North Korean refugees including Hanawon, videos on TV, 1,100 pictures and related articles from newspapers and Internet have been collected. Through this analysis, the study found that subtle changes in North Korean fashion started prior to the Jong Un Kim's regime, but has become full-blown since Kim's assumption of power. This proves that the country is not yet independent from its political situation. The results are as follows: First, the appearance of Ri Sol-ju has liberalized the fashion concept of North Korean women, and the popularity of her trademark style has actually contributed to a more amicable image for Kim. Second, the "Hallyu" style has spread to North Korea through various channels, and has started new trends. Third, the diversification of fashion styles has been greatly accelerated in accordance with the expansion of market, resulting from the economic revitalization policy. Last of all, Jong Un Kim's direct orders concerning fashion have resulted in some significant changes. The sophisticated uniforms of flight attendants and the development of luxury cosmetics being prime examples. As studies on this subject are extremely rare, this research is significant to identify the changes on the clothing culture under Jong Un Kim's regime, and to present an expanded view, as the two countries work towards an united Korea.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.49-64
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• 2001

Fur is conceived as a material signifier, not only with its commodity value as luxury goods but also as its symbolic value as objects invested by one's libidinal desire. In this study, complex meanings of fur as multi-layered signs of political and sexual power focusing on fetishism shall be explored, especially on the spectacle fetishism acted by mass media during the anti-fur movement in the 1980s. In conjuction herewith, a highlight shall also be made to the symbolic value in fashion design since 1990s. In this study, first, as a theoretical investigation, fetishism, that has been traditionally considered only as sexual fetishism in fashion discourse will be explored in socio-economic level. Second, in historical context, how the meanings and values of fur have become realized in various cultural spaces, such as literature, art, film and finally, fashion will be viewed. In fashion, fur is a product of desire and power influenced by commodity fetishism as well as sexual fetishism. During the anti-fur movement, mass media has developed the concept of spectacle fetishism. Fur is a sign of animal-victim, and fur-clad women is viewed with images full of imperialsm, sexism and racism, thus act as derisive spectacles of consumerism. Since 1990s as a reflection on anti-fur movement, fetishistic characteristics, which challenge traditional operation method, are expressed by disguise, parody, and returning to the nature. First, fur as disguise is intended to hide sexually perverse, decadent characteristics and expensiveness of fur by texturing or patterning techniques. Second, fur as parody uses fake fur or dyed fur in order to satirize erotically and ethnographically fetishized meanings of fur. Third, aboriginal design of fur is adapted to use symbolic values outside the West, which can potentially mobilize antagonistic oppositions out of their fetishistic regimes. In conclusion, fur as sign of female sexuality and its libidinal profits of exchange, has significant symbolic values expressed in fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.5 s.58
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• pp.763-776
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the glamour image in contemporary women's fashion since 1990. The method of study is to analyze the documentary and fashion magazines about the glamour images. Most of all, glamour has been composed by connection of hollywood film industry and fashion. Glamourous body image showed sensual, threatening and vague body. Formative characteristics in fashion showed a tight silhouette, neglige, lace look, dress showing neck and shoulder, fur coat, stiletto, diamond, gold, big and thick jewelry, satin, velvet, lace, mink and fox fur, etc. Internal meaning was a fantasy, ideal, wealth, fame, hyper-feminity, vagueness, vulgarity, sexuality, mystery, professional, fatalness, aggressiveness and evil. Since 1990, the glamour images in fashion were as follows; First, the glamour with hyper-feminity showed a classical femme-fatal image as fearful existence with a power more than allure. Second, the glamour with vulgarity showed an exaggerated, cheap and popular kitsch image, which have intense colors, lavish surfaces and excessive sexual signs. Third, the glamour with classical sensuality showed a hi-glamour image of hollywood actresses being active from 1930 to 1950, which was expressed glittery dress, stole, diamond, fur wrap, hill, luxury dress. Fourth, the glamour with sexual perversion showed an erotic, vague and sexual drag image, and fetish costume. Fetishistic elements were rubber, PVC, stiletto, thick and high boots and corset and particularly, they were a main method of expression of glamour image. Fifth, the glamour with future image showed a mechanical and mysterious image and it was a conscious style by metallic, plastic and sleeky fabric. In conclusion, glamour fashion image is an ideal beauty type of women and will exist as a meaningful aesthetic sign in women's fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.207-225
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• 2016

This study aims to analyze the impact of negative review type, brand reputation and opportunity scarcity perception, on preferences of fashion products in social commerce. For the above evaluation, we used the 2 (negative review type: objective/subjective) ${\times}2$ (brand reputation: high/low) ${\times}2$ (opportunity scarcity perception: high/low) model, designed with three mixed elements. We enrolled 260 women in their 20s and 30s, who live in Seoul and have used social commerce; a final total of 207 subjects were considered for analysis. The data were analyzed using the SPSS 18 program and reliability test, t-test and three-way ANOVA were performed. Following observations were made: First, preferences were higher when the subjects read objective negative reviews than subjective negative reviews, and when a fashion product was from a brand of high reputation than a brand of low reputation. Second, the interaction effect between negative review type and brand reputation was greater among the subjects whose opportunity scarcity perception is high, than those having low opportunity scarcity perception. Thus, we conclude that the social commerce should encourage consumers to write more objective reviews, and fashion brands should manage their reputations well. Also, social commerce can use scarcity messages aggressively to increase preferences of global fashion luxury goods, which is actively marketed in social commerce since 2015.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.45-59
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to discover the present situation of fashion journalism, which is a collaborator and watchdog of the fast-growing fashion business industry, then to proffer fundamental data for the setting of desirable fashion journalism in the field of newspaper. Unlike magazine and internet news service which are focused on a specific group, daily newspaper has a far-reaching influence without regarding the age, gender and social status of the readers. Therefore, how newspaper deals with fashion and fashion phenomena has immense influence on the attitude and understanding of common people on fashion. Defining fashion journalism is an activity of gathering and mediating of various ideas and opinions on fashion, the beginning of fashion journalism of newspaper traces back to the late of 19th century. From then to the period of Japan's occupancy by force, newspaper used fashion articles to lead enlightenment of lifestyle. After Korean War, newspaper was one of the main path of in-flowing western culture and fashion trend till 1970s. During $1980s{\sim}1990s$, fashion articles in newspaper were separated from woman and family section and fashion journalism made their own way to a specialized field. In the beginning of 21st century, fashion journalism in the field of newspaper is armed with more various and profound contents then ever, but it is also true fashion journalism is not free from accusation of commercialization and agitation of preference on imported luxury goods. Today fashion articles of daily newspapers are not subordinated to the common idea, 'fashion is only for women'. Fashion articles deals with men as well as women. Information on new products is regarded more important than fashion trend. Articles are not restricted in the fashion section. It means fashion journalism is expanding its territory to business section, opinion section and so on. However, fashion news dealing with aged people or young children are very rare. It suggests target readers of fashion news are concentrated on the people who have a considerable buying power. An main article usually has more than 3 photos. That means not only photos in fashion news are established as essential visual information today but also commercialization of fashion news makes rapid progress in this field. Also the considerable dependancy on the information sources from manufacturing side can be a problem of sustaining accuracy and impartiality of news.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.93-106
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• 2016

The aims of this study are to elucidate the relationship between the luxurious trends of costumes and the importation of Ming's patterned textiles in the $17^{th}$ century, and to analyze the similarity between certain Joseon and Ming fabric patterns. After Imjinwaeran[임진왜란] and Byungjahoran[병자호란], more diverse Joseon textile patterns appeared. Generally, wars lead to a shortage of luxury goods and basic commodities. However, $17^{th}$ century Joseon had an abundance of luxury goods, which allowed even some commoners to have clothing made of Chinese silk. That was the result of free trade between the Koreans and the Chinese merchants in Joseon. Ming's merchants followed the Ming's troops into the Korean Peninsula and targeted Koreans to sell their goods, such as fur coats and fur hats. Free trade between Ming and Joseon took place at Junggang [중강] and Donggangjin [동강진]. Joseon imported Chinese textiles there and resold them to Japanese merchants. Some of the Changgi Chung's excavated fabrics might be an evidence of the import from the Ming. These fabrics had the inscription and were similar to Ming fabrics. It can be assumed that trade occurred between Joseon, China, and Japan, as fabrics found in the countries had similar patterns such as flower, bee, and four seasons, which represented longevity. Furthermore, Chinese fabrics might have triggered Joseon's weaving skills to develop, which led to the ability to weave refined and beautiful brocade satin at Sangbang [상방]. According to Uigwe[의궤], Sangbang could weave silk fabrics in the 1620s and 1630s. The improvement of weaving techniques might make it possible to weave some popular patterns at Sangbang.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.61-78
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• 2021

Gianni Versace is one of the most influential Italian designers between the 1980s and 1990s and a representative person to add sexiness and splendour to Italian fashion. This study aimed to analyze the design identity that resulted in the successful handover to Donatella Versace and to review how effectively differentiated and unique heritage elements of Versace were transferred and operated. Literature reviews were performed to find Gianni Versace's design identity and archive. The scope of this study was Donatella's collection from 2018 to 2020. In particular, Signature, the most remarkable design identity of luxury brands with a visual identity that includes the mark, logo and symbol and design elements such as the item, colour, materials, details, etc., were the special focus. In this study, the elements of the visual identity of the signature were classified with the logo, icon, silhouette, materials, patterns, colours, and changes in details that were applied with the uniqueness and philosophy of the differentiated brand. Donatella Versace empathized with Versace's heritage as the brand heritage recalling Versace's honour in the 1990s and reproduced his honour again by reinterpretation of Versace's design images. Donatella is considered an excellent creative director who leads the brand by keeping the heritage and applying the trends of the times. This study as a case study of Versace has the meaning that Versace has maintained the brand identity starting from Gianni Versace as the first generation and successful takeover after the change of directors upon recreation to meet the modern times.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.398-413
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• 2019

This study empirically analyzed the influence of fashion brands' marketing issues on actual sales and consumer preference-focusing on evaluation trends of brands over time by using the theoretical background and big data provided through literature. This study examined the influence of three fashion brands (Balenciaga, Vetements, and Off-White) that have recently seen a drastic increase in the number of searched volumes through social networks. To identify the consumer-brand evaluations and trends and the marketing issues, the time period was divided into Groups A and B, which are from 2014 to 2015 and from 2016 to 2017, respectively. This study analyzed the frequency of overlapping keywords by using the R program to graphically visualize the changes over the timeline. Specifically, this analysis extracted data mainly related to bags, wallets and accessories for 2014-2015, but in 2016-2017, all four brands saw a vast increase in the frequency of searching product keywords related to clothing and footwear, and newly extracted ones were the top keywords. When analyzing the big data with these keywords as indicators, I confirmed that the products related to bags, wallets, and accessories were shifted to those related to apparel and footwear. Consumers previously recognized luxury brands such as Balenciaga as accessories-oriented brands that were focused on handbags and sunglasses, but now they are gaining popularity and recognition among consumers as a fashion brand.