Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2016.66.3.093

A Study on Joseon's Luxurious Trends of Costumes and Import of Patterned Textiles in the 17th century  

Lee, Soo-Hyun (Dept. of Fashion Industry, Ewha Womans University Graduate School)
Hong, Na-Young (Dept. of Fashion Industry, Ewha Womans University)
Publication Information
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume / v.66, no.3, 2016 , pp. 93-106 More about this Journal
Abstract
The aims of this study are to elucidate the relationship between the luxurious trends of costumes and the importation of Ming's patterned textiles in the $17^{th}$ century, and to analyze the similarity between certain Joseon and Ming fabric patterns. After Imjinwaeran[임진왜란] and Byungjahoran[병자호란], more diverse Joseon textile patterns appeared. Generally, wars lead to a shortage of luxury goods and basic commodities. However, $17^{th}$ century Joseon had an abundance of luxury goods, which allowed even some commoners to have clothing made of Chinese silk. That was the result of free trade between the Koreans and the Chinese merchants in Joseon. Ming's merchants followed the Ming's troops into the Korean Peninsula and targeted Koreans to sell their goods, such as fur coats and fur hats. Free trade between Ming and Joseon took place at Junggang [중강] and Donggangjin [동강진]. Joseon imported Chinese textiles there and resold them to Japanese merchants. Some of the Changgi Chung's excavated fabrics might be an evidence of the import from the Ming. These fabrics had the inscription and were similar to Ming fabrics. It can be assumed that trade occurred between Joseon, China, and Japan, as fabrics found in the countries had similar patterns such as flower, bee, and four seasons, which represented longevity. Furthermore, Chinese fabrics might have triggered Joseon's weaving skills to develop, which led to the ability to weave refined and beautiful brocade satin at Sangbang [상방]. According to Uigwe[의궤], Sangbang could weave silk fabrics in the 1620s and 1630s. The improvement of weaving techniques might make it possible to weave some popular patterns at Sangbang.
Keywords
$17^{th}$ Century; Costumes; Import of Patterned Textiles; Joseon; Luxurious Trends; Trades;
Citations & Related Records
Times Cited By KSCI : 2  (Citation Analysis)
연도 인용수 순위
1 Andong National University Museum (ed) (2000). Research reports of excavated costumes from Changgi Chung's grave at Naedanri, Pohang. Andong, Andong National University Museum.
2 Bao, M. X. & Xu, H. (2006). Silk fabrics in the early period of Ching. Hanguk-Boksik, 24, 67-98.
3 Beijing Shi Changping Qu shi san ling te qu ban shi chu bian.(ed) (2006). Catalogue of relics from the Dingling mausoleum. Beijing, China, Beijing mei shu she ying chu ban she.
4 Binjeondogam-uigwe (1600).
5 Binjeondogam-uigwe (1632).
6 Cho, H. S. (2000). Analysis of excavated fabrics from Changgi Chung's grave, in Research reports of excavated costumes from Changgi Chung's grave at Naedanri, Pohang, Andong National University Museum (ed), Andong, Andong National University Museum.
7 Cho, H. S. (2006). Korean traditional pattern 1 textiles. National research institute of cultural heritage.
8 Cho, H. S. (2008). A Study on Flower Patterns Found in the Fabrics of the Joseon Dynasty. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 58(5), 87-101.
9 Cho, H. S. & Lee, E. J (2013). A study on Korean twill fabrics in the 17th century. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 63(4), 56-69.   DOI
10 Daegu National Museum (ed) (2011). The lady from the Shin Deukyeon's goes out. Daegu National Museum.
11 Dankook University Suk-joosun Memorial Museum (ed) (2002). Textile patterns in Chosun Dynasty. Seoul, Dankook University Suk-joosun Memorial Museum.
12 Garyedogam-uigwe (1627).
13 Go, D. H. (2013). Study on Sijeon Commerce in Joseon period. Paju, Jisiksanupsa.
14 Gyeonggi Provincial Museum (ed) (2004). Masterpieces from the excavated costumes of the Gyeonggi provincial museum. Yong-in, Gyeonggi Provincial Museum.
15 Han, M. G. (1999). Imjin-Waeran and the Relation between Korea and China. Seoul, Critical Revie of History.
16 Han, M. G. (2000). Gwanghaegun. Seoul, Critical Review of History.
17 Han, M. G. (2004). The shift from Ming to Qing and Korean peninsula. the Society for Ming-Qing Historical Studies, 22, 37-64.
18 Han, M. G. (2009). Jeongmyo-& Byeongja-Horan wars and East Asia. Seoul, Blue History.
19 Han, M. G. (2010). Lee Ru-sung and Mao Wen-lung, Critical Review of History, 356-383.
20 Jang, H. J. (1999). A Study on the silk fabrics of Chosun era, (Doctoral dissertation, Busan University, Republic of Korea) Retrieved from http://www.riss.kr/search/download/FullTextDownload.do?control_no=45e4d287fecfd297&p_mat_type=be54d9b8bc7cdb09&p_submat_type=b51fa0b5ced94fec&fulltext_kind=a8cb3aaead67ab5b&t_gubun=&convertFlag=&naverYN=&outLink=&colName=bib_t&DDODFlag=&loginFlag=1&url_type=&query=%EC%A1%B0%EC%84%A0%EC%8B%9C%EB%8C%80+%EA%B2%AC%EC%A7%81%EB%AC%BC+%EC%97%B0%EA%B5%AC.
21 Jeong, E. J. (2012). Paintings of the Korean Envoys to China in the Joseon period. Seoul, Publishing of Review of Society.
22 Jo, C. R. (2011). Seaway Envoy Trip in 1636 and Sungjeong-byeongja-jocheonrok (崇禎丙子朝天錄) of Lee Man Yeong(李晩榮). Inmun Gwahak, 47, 81-100.
23 Joseonwangjo-silrok [조선왕조실록] (n.d.)
24 Lee, H. S. (2004). A study on the Korean import policy for the Chinese goods in the seventeenth century. Baesanhakbo, 68, 335-385.
25 Lee, M. J. (2003). The factors of luxury trend and fashion changes as result of costume regulations during Choson dynasty. the Research Journal of the costume culture, 11(4), 551-561.
26 Lee, M. J. (2004). A social phenomena and the change of dress and its ornaments in the 17th and 18th century Chosun Dynasty. Korean Classics Studies, 41, 61-85.
27 Lee, M. S. (2014). Diplomacy in Beijing in 1623. Seoul, Daewon-sa.
28 Mangiyoram [만기요람]
29 Park, K. J. & Koh, B. J. (2008). Regulations on dress and its ornaments in the true record of Joseon dynasty between the mid-15th century and mid-17th century. the Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 16(4), 748-471.   DOI
30 Park, K. J. (2006). A Study on the Prohibition on Dress and ornament From Seongjong To Hyeonjong App earing In the True Record of Joseon Dynasty. (Master's Thesis, Dankook University, Republic of Korea) Retrieved from http://www.riss.kr/search/download/FullTextDownload.do?control_no=a1ce0e9b05a301bfffe0bdc3ef48d419&p_mat_type=be54d9b8bc7cdb09&p_submat_type=f1a8c7a1de0e08b8&fulltext_kind=a8cb3aaead67ab5b&t_gubun=&convertFlag=&naverYN=&outLink=&colName=bib_t&DDODFlag=&loginFlag=1&url_type=&query=%EB%B3%B5%EC%8B%9D%EA%B8%88%EC%A0%9C%EC%97%B0%EA%B5%AC.
31 Sachon byungbu (ed) (1973a). Patterned Weaves 1. Tokyo, Japan, Yechodang[藝艸堂].
32 Sachon byungbu (ed) (1973b). Dyeing and Weaves of China. Kyoto, Japan, Yechodang[藝艸堂].
33 Seungjeongwon-Ilgi [승정원일기] (1632).
34 Song, M. K. (2009). Study of women’s clothes through historical records of funeral rites from early 17th century of Joseon Dynasty. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 12(3), 69-90.
35 Song, S. Y. (2011). A Study on Sayangwha pattern of Excavated Fabrics in the Joseon Dynasty, (Master's thesis, Kyungwon University, Republic of Korea). Retrieved from http://www.riss.kr/search/detail/DetailView.do?p_mat_type=be54d9b8bc7cdb09&control_no=ea7c5d9bb2822270ffe0bdc3ef48d419#redirect.
36 Yim, H. J. & Cho. H. S. (2004). A study on fabrics and pattern of the excavated costumes during 16.17th century in Joseon period. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 54(8), 113-128.
37 Yoon, G. H. (1604). Gabjinmanrok[甲辰萬綠].
38 Zhao, F. (1999). Treasures in Silk. Beijing, China, Yesadang [藝紗堂].
39 Yoon, (2014). A Study on Joseon Costume through the 'Yeonhaengrok(燕行錄)' recorded by 'Bukhak School(北學派)', (Master's thesis, Sungkyunkwan University, Republic of Korea). Retrieved from http://www.riss.kr/search/download/FullTextDownload.do?control_no=3431b210ab82a6a9ffe0bdc3ef48d419&p_mat_type=be54d9b8bc7cdb09&p_submat_type=f1a8c7a1de0e08b8&fulltext_kind=a8cb3aaead67ab5b&t_gubun=&convertFlag=&naverYN=&outLink=&colName=bib_t&DDODFlag=&loginFlag=1&url_type=&query=%EB%B6%81%ED%95%99%ED%8C%8C.