• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.519-531
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• 2012

This study comprehends the various expressions of Lady Gaga's fashion style based on Craig Owens's Allegory theory. This study analyzed four application elements of Borrow, Site Specificity, Accumulate of Strategy, and Hybridization in addition, it studied all aspects of the aesthetic value of Lady GaGa (an influential popular culture icon). It was classified in the external representation of the fashion style for the aesthetic value. The results are summarized as follows: First, 'Borrow' of the singers of the 80's music and fashion style present from her elders and visual homage to shock artists. It influenced her fans with a difference in viewpoint for a star's fashion that subsequently resulted in a deformation of form, playful kitsch style, and mixed gender. Second, 'Site specificity' presents an extreme make over through an intentional and grotesques fashion style to extend physical territory and defenseless. The results remove stereotypes and reveal deconstructive performances. Third, 'Accumulate of strategy' simultaneously presents voluptuous beauty, futurism, and avant-garde style. This shows the countercultural tendency through the random repetition of fashion images and layerd coordination. Finally, 'Hybridization' presents multiful fashion style through a collaboration with world-famous designers and cosmetic brands. She expressed a diverse and complex fashion style composed of an art form that combines a high-tech cyborg image. The aesthetic values of Lady Gaga' fashion style are 'ambivalence virtuality', 'Transcendental mixed gender', 'plural textuality', and 'unexpected play culture'.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.34 no.4 s.117
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• pp.1-17
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• 2006

This study emphasizes users' participation, a living-transforming visuality, as users have appeared to be a central element of landscape design but ignored before. Also this study tries to propose meaning of extended visuality in contemporary landscape design on the basis of visual criticism on simple perception-and contemplations convention-based landscape design. For these purposes, this study reviews characteristics of visual changes appeared in modern reductionist paintings. In other words, arts can be interpreted in polysemous ways through bodies' experience. Deconstructive concepts derived from the theoretical reviews can be categorized into three including the participation of the users' bodies from a contemplative point of view, textuality and intertextuality, and experiences from works. Those concepts were used to criticize the previous discourse on landscape designs and to analyze various issues in the theories, themes and techniques in contemporary landscape design. The significance of the expanded visuality in contemporary landscape design is that it brings the users' voluntary participation. This structure can serve as a tool to obtain the users' perceptive effects. At the same time, it can be regarded as a process of establishing the relationships between the users and the works. Thus emphasis is placed not only on the influences of the effects structure of the works themselves, but also on the many different dimensions related to the users' bodies. It implies that the meaning of design is not determined by the designer but a product resulted from the voluntary relationships between users and works. These findings lead to ambiguous distinctions between arts everyday life, and eventually to the end of the concepts of formative dichotomous aesthetics and their effectiveness. Finding of this study call for not only redefining the space where landscape design is created and communicated, but also reconsidering the concepts of landscape design and its ontological meanings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1971-1980
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to explore the meaning and depth of traditional knitwears, and to develop knitwear designs by using Aran motif, one of major motifs of traditional knitwears and on the basis of the 'continuance' theory of Henri Bergson and Jill Deleuze. Connectivity, the sense of space and deconstructive fluidity-basic concepts of the continuance theory-are felt in such forms as pleats, origami, and air pumping systems, blob and twisting used in the modem fashion. The motif of Aran knitwear which has a long historical tradition can be reinterpreted in terms of those concepts of the continuance theory. In this study, we designed five pieces of knitwear while applying cable motif, an important motif of Aran knitwear, and the concepts of the continuance theory to them. This study will make a contribution to the designing of knit wears through reinterpretation of a traditional motif in terms of a modem philosophical thought.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.32 no.6 s.107
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• pp.68-81
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• 2005

The styles of contemporary landscape design have diversified since the emergence of Postmodernism in landscape architecture. The diversification was mostly influenced by contemporary fine arts and architecture. This study examines the pluralistic development of Postmodern landscape design through the investigation of the influences from those sister arts. In this point of view, the main approaches of Postmodern landscape design are thought to be classified into three categories;'the formal abstract approach', 'the figurative approach' and 'the new picturesque approach'. The first category of the formal abstract approach was formulated with the concepts and vocabulary of Minimal Art and Installation Art. Its representative icons such as 'point grids' and 'stripes', and the main concepts such as the sense of 'flahess', 'expansion' and 'materiality' are mostly thought to be originated from these art forms. The second category of the figurative approach is characterised by the concepts and vocabulary of Pop Art and New Image Paintings. Its representative icons such as 'map' or 'figurative forms' and main concepts like the sense of 'reality', 'context' and 'symbolism' are mostly thought to be originated from these art forms. The third category of the new picturesque approach was formulated with the concepts and vocabulary of Land Art and Late Deconstructive Architecture. Its representative icons such as 'hybrid', 'layer' and 'fold', and the main concepts such as the sense of 'complexity', 'continuity' and 'reversibility' are thought to be originated from these art forms. The research shows that the main stream of contemporary landscape design seems to be gradually moving toward the second and third approach above, in step with the cultural orientation and the dynamism of contemporary urban life. Therefore, the study focused especially on the new picturesque approach which would be in greater need for coping with the hybrid culture today.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.515-527
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• 2014

This study is intended to develop the creative and high value-added products as well as the development of diversity for jump suit for the future by analyzing the trend and feature shown in jump suit in the modern fashion. In the research methodology, the analysis was carried out over a total of 351 work pieces on jump suit among those presented in the collection of Paris, Milan, New York and London from 2006S/S to 2013F/W as well as literature review. The aesthetic features on suit jump design introduced in the modern fashion could be characterized as the following. First, both upper and lower garments are composed with a simple array of items and the stress was put on modernity feature through minimal expression technique. The feature of solid simplicity was also given with achromatic color or neutral monochrome. Second, the feminity image was emphasized with adoption of such highlighting items as detailed add-ons, tops, camisoles and blouses that stress the organically curved streamline including silhouette, material itself, crease and drape that enable the direct and indirect exposition of human body and the expression of smooth curve in human body. Third, jump suit revealed the multipurpose feature as item available for the diverse wear such as working habiliment, sports wear, uniform, office wear and evening wear, depending on the terms and conditions. Fourth, the deconstructive characteristic appeared through integration with various items, destruction of formative structure, non-structural shape, and ambiguity in wearing method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.4
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• pp.94-110
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to delve into the identity of the swag style which has diversified into various forms by exploring the phenomenon, formative characteristics and the internal values of the swag style in modern fashioin. This study discusses the concept and the socio-cultural meanings of swag from the perspective of Jean Baudrillard's hyper-reality, and a form of existence. The classifies the swag fashion styles into parody, hip hop and collage-type mix-and-match. Expressive characteristics of the swag look in modern fashion are as follows. First, the swag look utilizes the parody technique. In the mid-2000s, the look parodied brand logos as a form of self-mocking and active self-derision toward cheap imitations. Second, the swag look borrows from the expressive factors of the hip-hop style. Born as a sub-culture based on music, hip-hop has become a way of life, as its nature became multi-cultural and trans-cultural while its fashion style gained popularity globally after the 1980s. Third, the swag look barrows from the pop-type collage form as it mixes-and-matches costume items based on the expressive characteristics of hip hop, and this can be seen through items being used in new, non-formative and free styles. Comic aesthetics is revealed in parodied expression, hip-hop factors and collage-style mix-and-match. Swag as a hyper-reality manifests itself in various natures: humorous nature, negative nature and deconstructive nature through reflection and re-enactment of reality, transmutation and distortion of reality, and absence of reality respectively. However, it does not have a binding nature, which is the norm for subcultures. This characteristic, in combination with it having internal lightness, strong meaning of communication, and a sharing of self-contentment, distinguishes itself from the general meanings of existing parody fashion, hip-hop fashion and collage fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.764-776
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to serve as a reference for creative fashion design by analyzing the types and aesthetic characteristics of trompe l'oeil in contemporary men's fashion. This research is an empirical study that utilizes both qualitative and quantitative methods to analyze fashion design cases and research articles such as academic papers and professional books. The study covers four major men's collections: Paris, Milan, New York, and London. The period being analyzed is from 2005 Spring/Summer, which is widely regarded as a turning point at which men's collections began rapidly, to 2019 Spring/Summer. The study analyzes 471 photos from domestic and international websites, with the following results. Types of trompe l'oeil in contemporary male fashion are classified into four types: (1) the deconstruction of clothing forms or creation methods, (2) optical illusions that create the effect of multiple layers of clothing on a single article of clothing and the reproduction of apparel details and clothing using 2D printing or embroideries, (3) realistic patterns on garments to create a camouflage effect, and (4) articles of clothing containing body images such as the chest, trunk, or internal human anatomy. These aesthetic characteristics in men's fashion design using types of trompe l'oeil are playful, deconstructive, and decorative features based on hyper-reality. This study aims to acknowledge trompe l'oeil as being widely used in contemporary men's fashion as a type of formative art, playing a crucial role in creative fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.13-30
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to analyzed the types of Deformation dipicted on the late 1990s western costumes. The late 20th century cultural experience or lifestyle is interpreted with 'popular culture' ,popular culture is described as cultural phenomenon in postmodern condition. Contemporary popular culture may no longer be strictly 'working-class' as the idealistic purists of political formalism would like to , but does emerge from subordinate cultures, from the inventive edges of the consensus, and from the previously ignored and suppressed. It gestured through a widening democratization of styles, sounds and images, to an important remarking , to new possibilities , new perpectives, new projects. The growing importance of popular culture as a source for change of expression in the art, expecially new desire and will of artists has been caused lots of ' Deformation' in their works. Deformation, doesn't mean to represent object faithfully as it were seen through the artist's eyes. In a sense it implies that artists deform it with conscious or unconscious form. So in this study , the phenomenon of the postmodern western costumes is to describe ' formative language' called 'Deformation.' and it is classified three types, that is, 'Deformation of human-body image.' , Deformation of silhouette.' 'Deformation of detail.'. First , Deformation of human-body image is represented by deconstructive , subversive image in western costumes, a lot of costumes types of deconstruction have been shown by fashion designers are emphasized empathy with Deformation of human-body image. Second, Deformation of silhouette is also represented subversion of traditional manner and ultiity, underwear and outwear structure and ugly image. parody image of postumodernism , and so on. Above all, the late 1990s western costumes with Deformation of silhouette was an infinitely larger and more complex world than it appeared from outside and has expressed as a rejection against the values which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued, And parody through the change of internal meaning is to bring about parodox, irony, contempt, satire , unexpectedness by applying the original to inapproporate subject through its substition, inversion. Third, Deformation of detail is represented overdecoration, exaggerative distortion of for , overlapping and fetish image, parody image, kitsch image, and so on , Once fetish achieve a certain' style factor' among trendsettler, they are picked up by internationally famous fashion designers, The characteristics of kitsch are overdecoration , unfitness , imitation , used western costumes.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.2
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• pp.5-41
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• 2000

The purpose of this thesis is to study about destructive method in late twentieth Century Paintings. To do this we will consider the examples of Frank Stella and Anselm Kiefer's expressive methods. And this thesis is designed to investigate the change of the two Modes. The centering change is in the destructive manner of them, and they are traced systematically. In these chapters we will study the procedure of the destruction and specification of the Modes; the subject which contains the special element, the relation between it and the artist's willful meaning, morphological specification, symbol system formative language, subject, material and coloring way. etc. The origin of the methodology is systematically studied and the procedures of the content applicated are considered. In the special characteristics of the methodology, the special feactures it contains will be considered. The basis of the deconstructive idea from Nietsche, Derrida, Saussire, Andrew Benjamin and others will be applied to understand the two Modes of artistic methodology, and whether or not they can be tools of explaining the methodology of our time is distinguished. Next, the methodologically founded contents and concepts from Chapter#2 are related and intertwined together. The outer destructive aspect and inner destructive specification are centrally uncovered by the Interpretation. The resulting background of the Mode, the factor of destruction and central concept, along with the works, applied ideas, and pre-scholar's writings, are conjoined and explained. The characteristics of S Mode are revealed as being similar to those of Vandalic Destruction and Baroque formalistic Style, while K Mode is closely related to Iconoclastic Destruction and Neoclassical Antiformal Style.