Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.29049/rjcc.2018.26.5.764

Trompe l'oeil in contemporary men's fashion  

Jang, Jung Im (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University)
Lee, Younhee (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University)
Publication Information
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture / v.26, no.5, 2018 , pp. 764-776 More about this Journal
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to serve as a reference for creative fashion design by analyzing the types and aesthetic characteristics of trompe l'oeil in contemporary men's fashion. This research is an empirical study that utilizes both qualitative and quantitative methods to analyze fashion design cases and research articles such as academic papers and professional books. The study covers four major men's collections: Paris, Milan, New York, and London. The period being analyzed is from 2005 Spring/Summer, which is widely regarded as a turning point at which men's collections began rapidly, to 2019 Spring/Summer. The study analyzes 471 photos from domestic and international websites, with the following results. Types of trompe l'oeil in contemporary male fashion are classified into four types: (1) the deconstruction of clothing forms or creation methods, (2) optical illusions that create the effect of multiple layers of clothing on a single article of clothing and the reproduction of apparel details and clothing using 2D printing or embroideries, (3) realistic patterns on garments to create a camouflage effect, and (4) articles of clothing containing body images such as the chest, trunk, or internal human anatomy. These aesthetic characteristics in men's fashion design using types of trompe l'oeil are playful, deconstructive, and decorative features based on hyper-reality. This study aims to acknowledge trompe l'oeil as being widely used in contemporary men's fashion as a type of formative art, playing a crucial role in creative fashion design.
Keywords
men's fashion; trompe l'oeil; playfulness; deconstruction; decorativeness;
Citations & Related Records
연도 인용수 순위
  • Reference
1 Cho, J.-S. (2004). A study on trompe l'oeil expressed in modern fashion: Focused on 1990s. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 12(5), 880-896.
2 Denim Jeans Observer. (2018, February 4). Krizia Robustella 2018-2019 fall autumn winter mens runway. Retrieved April 22, 2018, from https://www.denimjeansobserver.com/mag/2018/02/04/krizia-robustella-2018-2019-fall-winter-mens-runway-fashion-080-barcelona-moda-satire-fakes-streetwear-denim-jeans-observer
3 Elle. (2014, September 17). Jean Paul Gaultier: les 22 moments les plus forts de sa carriere [Jean Paul Gaultier: The 22 strongest moments of his career]. Retrieved July 12, 2018, from http://www.elle.fr/Mode/Dossiers-mode/Jean-Paul-Gaultier-les-22-moments-les-plus-forts-de-sa-carriere/ABACA-36362-01-1
4 Firstviewkorea. (2008, July). Fake funology. Retrieved April 28, 2018, from http://www.firstviewkorea.com
5 Vogue. (2009b, January 20). Autumn/Winter 2009 menswear: Vivienne Westwood Man Autumn/Winter 2009 Menswear Collection. https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumn-winter-2009-menswear/vivienne-westwood-man/collection
6 Vogue. (2009c, January 23). Autumn/Winter 2009 menswear: Comme Des Garcons homme plus autumn/winter 2009 menswear collection. Retrieved April 25, 2018, from https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumn-winter-2009-menswear/comme-des-garcons-homme-plus/collection
7 Vogue. (2010). Fall 2010 menswear: Alexander McQueen. Retrieved September 22, 2018, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2010-menswear/alexander-mcqueen/slideshow/collection#8
8 Lee, J. H. (2011). 지식의 미술관 [A museum of knowledge]. Paju: Artbooks.
9 Kim, S. E., & Ha, J. S. (2016). A study on aesthetic values of neo-deconstructive fashion: Focused on Vetments, Marques' Almeida, Jacquemus. Journal of Fashion Design, 16(4), 129-150. doi:10.18652/2016.16.4.8   DOI
10 Kim, S. Y. (2010). A study of trompe l'oeil expressions in modern fashion: With a special reference to those since 2000. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 34(4), 597-605. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.4.597   DOI
11 Milman, M. (1982). Trompe-l'oeil painting. New York, N.Y.: Rizzoli.
12 Park, H. S. (2012, October 26). 눈을 속이다, 착시현상 [Deceive one's eyes, optical illusions]. The Science Times, Retrieved April 28, 2018, from https://www.sciencetimes.co.kr/?p=109255&post_type=news&news-tag=-
13 Hamilton, J. A. (1987). Dress as a cultural sub-system: A unifying metatheory for clothing and textiles. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 6(1), 1-7. doi:10.1177/0887302X8700600101   DOI
14 Pursuitist. (n.d.). Trompe l'oeil dresses by Hermes Paris, 1952 [Blog Post]. Retrieved April 25, 2018, from https://pursuitist.com/trompe-loeil-dresses-by-hermes-paris-1952
15 GQ. (2018, June 9). Spring/Summer 2019 menswear: Daniel W Fletcher spring/summer 2019 menswear collection. Retrieved July 13, 2018, from https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/shows/springsummer-2019-menswear/daniel-w-fletcher/collection
16 Gush, C. (2018, June 13). The best fashion from the London men's shows: For women. Refinery29, Retrieved May 5, 2018, from https://www.refinery29.com/en-gb/london-mens-fashion-week-trends
17 Kim, D. J. (Producer). (2017, July 7). 지식채널e: '그림'의 탄생 [A birth of painting]. EBS, Retrieved April 28, 2018, from http://www.ebs.co.kr/tv/show?prodId=352&lectId=10710007
18 Huh, J.-S., & Geum, K.-S. (2004). A study on the body distortion and deformation in fashion art. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 54(3), 145-158.
19 Hypebeast. (2018, January 19). Balenciaga reveals pre-fall 2018 collection with lowkey lookbook. Retrieved May 5, 2018, from https://hypebeast.com/2018/1/balenciaga-pre-fall-2018-lookbook
20 Kang, J. N. (2018, September 24). 세상에 없던 재미를 줘라! [Give them all the fun they didn't have!]. dongA.com, Retrieved September 28, 2018, from http://news.donga.com/3/all/20180924/92138559/1
21 Kim, K.-H. (2016). A study on the types and aesthetic characteristics of trompe loeil expressed in modern fashion since 2010. Journal of the Korean Fashion & Costume Design Association, 18(2), 221-236.
22 Kim, M. J. (1993). A study of the expression of eroticism and modern costume: Surrealism, pop art post modernism. Unpublished master's thesis, Seoul Women's university, Seoul, Korea.
23 Vogue. (2008a, January 14). Fall 2008 menswear: Moschino. Retrieved April 25, 2018, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2008-menswear/moschino/slideshow/collection#24
24 Trompe-l'oeil. (n.d.). In Naver Dictionary. Retrieved April 28, 2018, from https://dict.naver.com/frkodict/french/#/entry/frko/3214946
25 Victoria and Albert Museum. (n.d.). Elsa Schiaparelli 1927. Retrieved October 7, 2018, from http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O15655/cravat-jumper-elsa-schiaparelli
26 Vogue. (2004). Spring 2005 menswear: Moschino. Retrieved September 12, 2018, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2005-menswear/moschino
27 Vogue. (2005, July 6). Spring 2006 menswear: Dries Van Noten. Retrieved October 7, 2018, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2006-menswear/dries-van-noten/slideshow/collection#23
28 Vogue. (2007, June 28). Spring 2008 menswear: Jean Paul Gaultier. Retrieved July 13, 2018, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2008-menswear/jean-paul-gaultier/slideshow/collection#21
29 Vogue. (2008b, June 21). Spring 2009 menswear: Jil Sander. Retrieved September 22, 2018, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-menswear/jil-sander/slideshow/collection#8
30 Vogue. (2009a, January 18). Autumn/Winter 2009 menswear: Neil Barrett. Retrieved October 7, 2018, from https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumn-winter-2009-menswear/neil-barrett/collection
31 GQ. (2009, January 19). Autumn/Winter 2009 menswear: Alexander McQueen autumn/winter 2009 menswear collection. Retrieved May 5, 2018, from https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/shows/autumn-winter-2009-menswear/alexander-mcqueen/collection
32 www.ReneMagritte.org. (n.d.b). The Human Condition, 1933 by Rene Magritte. Retrieved April 25, 2018, from https://www.renemagritte.org/the-human-condition.jsp
33 Yoo, H. T. (1987). 착시의 조형심리 [Optical illusions]. Seoul: Monthly Graphic Design.
34 The artinspector. (n.d.). Jacopo de Babari: Stilleben mit rebhuhn, eisenhandschuhen und armbruststreifen [Jacopo de Babari: Still-life with partridge and gauntlets]. Retrieved April 25, 2018, from https://the-artinspector.de/galerie/debabari-stillleben-mit-rebhuhn-eisenhandschuhen-und-armbruststreifen
35 Rabkin, E. (2016, April 22). The rise of the fashion hipster. The Business of Fashion, Retrieved April 28, 2018, from https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/opinion/op-ed-the-rise-of-the-fashion-hipster
36 Shin, H.-J. (2010). A study on fashion designs applying trompe l'oeil by layering: Focused on development of womans wear brand new product. Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
37 Shon, Y.-M., & Cho, Y.-A. (2002). A study on trompe-1'oeil expressed in modern fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 52(4), 155-171.
38 Song, Y.-K. (2008). A study on the aesthetic characteristics of kidult fashion. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Sejong University, Seoul, Korea.
39 Stylosophy. (n.d.). Moschino Uomo S/S 2010. Retrieved April 15, 2018, from https://www.stylosophy.it/foto/moschino-uomo-2010_4321.html
40 The Fashionisto. (2010, January 21). Paris fashion week: Jean Paul Gaultier fall 2010. Retrieved April 25, 2018, from https://www.thefashionisto.com/paris-fashion-week-jean-paul-gaultier-fall-2010
41 Tomandlorenzo. (2016, January 19). Moschino fall 2016 menswear collection. Retrieved April 25, 2018, from https://tomandlorenzo.com/2016/01/moschino-fall-2016-menswear-collection
42 Vogue. (2011, January 22). Fall 2011 menswear: Miharayasuhiro. Retrieved September 22, 2018, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-menswear/miharayasuhiro/slideshow/collection#12
43 Vogue. (2012, January 16). Fall 2012 menswear: Moschino. Retrieved September 22, 2018, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-menswear/moschino/slideshow/collection
44 Vogue. (2016c, June 27). Spring 2017 menswear: Thom Browne. Retrieved September 12, 2018, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-menswear/thom-browne/slideshow/collection#28
45 Vogue. (2013, June 26). Spring 2014 menswear: Walter Van Beirendonck. Retrieved April 20, 2018, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-menswear/walter-van-beirendonck/slideshow/collection
46 Vogue. (2016a, January 21). Fall 2016 menswear: Valentino. Retrieved April 25, 2018, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-menswear/valentino/slideshow/collection#19
47 Vogue. (2016b, June 26). Spring 2017 menswear: Off-White. Retrieved May 5, 2018, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-menswear/off-white/slideshow/collection#5
48 Vogue. (2016d, September 23). Spring 2017 ready-to-wear: Moschino. Retrieved October 7, 2018, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/moschino/slideshow/collection
49 Vogue. (2017, January 23). Fall 2017 menswear: Thom Browne. Retrieved September 22, 2018, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/thom-browne/slideshow/collection#30
50 www.ReneMagritte.org. (n.d.a). Homage to Mack Sennett, 1934 by Rene Magritte. Retrieved April 25, 2018, from https://www.renemagritte.org/homage-to-mack-sennett.jsp