• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.31-36
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• 2004

Liquid crystalline phases were formed from acylglutamate; polyglyceryl-10 myristate and glycerine mixture and they were used as a base material for preparing an O/W emulsion. When an oil phase is added into the liquid crystalline phases, it was inserted into the dispersed liquid crystal droplets rather than stayed outside the liquid crystals, which can be known by the fact that the size of liquid crystal droplets increases with the increasing oil phase content. Along with the increase in the droplet size, the complex modulus increases from 100 to 350 pascals and the loss angle decreases from 60 to 24 degrees, from which it can be known that the increase in the internal phase volume results in the increase in the elastic property of oil in liquid crystalline-phases (O/LC). When the water phase was lastly added into the O/LC phase, the emulsification occurred to form a O/W emulsion and the averaged particle size of the O/W emulsion changes from 22.5nm to 538nm with the addition of water phase. The results from the droplet size measurements and stability tests under accelerated conditions such as high temperature show that the obtained O/W emulsion is very consistent with time.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.756-776
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• 2016

The concern over beauty is increasing as the importance of appearance is becoming more prominent. Accordingly, the importance of studying beauty is now apparent. The purpose of this study is to analyze existing beauty-related research in order to assess current trends in beauty-related studies. Materials were collected from the master's theses and academic journals from 1997 through 2016. In addition, 81 beauty-related papers were selected and classified into 3 categories according to their subjects and content. There were 19 hair attitude papers, 52 papers about make-up and skincare, and 10 papers on cosmetic surgery. Each type was divided into detailed themes according to the study theme and its number was grasped. Consequently it was classified into 9 themes about the attitude toward hair and the relevant variable study, 10 themes about the attitude toward hair style and relevant variable study, 24 themes about the make-up attitude and relevant variable study, 28 themes about the skin care attitude and relevant variable study, and 10 themes about the cosmetic surgery attitude and relevant variable study. The results revealed that academic concern about beauty sharply increased starting in 2005. Moreover, we determined that the methodologies used in hair and make-up studies were sound and detailed, while cosmetic surgery studies were more inconsistent and poorly analyzed. Thus cosmetic surgery should be further researched in a more standardized and thorough manner. This review of attitudes toward beauty will serve as a basis for follow-up studies that employ meta-analyses to draw more quantitative conclusions by aggregating many more study results.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.255-263
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• 2017

In this study, the antioxidant activities, cellular protective effects, and inhibitory effects on elastase of non-fermented and fermented extracts of Parthenocissus tricuspidata (P. tricuspidata) stem using Lactobacillus pentosus were investigated. The free radical scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of non-fermented and fermented extracts were 42.3 and $34.5{\mu}g/mL$, respectively, in which the activity after fermentation was approximately 18.4% higher. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system of non-fermented and fermented extracts were 2.6 and $2.5{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. The activity after fermentation was approximately 4.2% higher. In the $^1O_2$-induced cellular damage of erythrocytes, the cellular protective effects (${\tau}_{50}$) of non-fermented and fermented extracts were 126.4 and 173.0 min at $50{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. The activity after fermentation was approximately 34.0% higher. The effect of fermented extract was 3.9 times higher than $(+)-{\alpha}$-tocopherol (${\tau}_{50}=43.4min$), known as a lipophilic antioxidant at $50{\mu}g/mL$. The inhibitory effect of elastase was investigated to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy using Hs68 human fibroblasts cells. The elastase inhibitory activities ($IC_{50}$) of non-fermented and fermented extracts were 873.6 and $687.8{\mu}g/mL$, respectively, and the activity after fermentation was approximately 21.3% higher. These results indicated that fermented extract of P. tricuspidata stem has potentials as natural cosmetic ingredients with antioxidant and anti-wrinkle effect.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.103-116
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• 2004

The goal of this study was to get the basic data for the domestic cosmetic industry, through analyzing female college ,students’ responses to cosmetic care of hair and their behavior, and their preference for hair cosmetics and brands. In their level of understanding and concern of hair cosmetic care, as well as their general knowledge, ‘dyed or decolorized hair’ types had the highest response rate at 49％, followed by ‘permanent wave’ type at 39％. Thus they were very interested in hairdressing-related operations, and even they made an attempt to do it directly. In the ways and management for dealing with harmful side effects caused by dyeing, decolorizing, or permanent, 74.7％ of the respondents experienced adverse effects, as well as having complaints, after permanent wave. Of the complaints 245 students experienced, ‘hair damage’ was the highest rate of 42.4％, followed by ‘unsatisfied with hair style’ at 19.8％. From the above results, female college students showed a various interest in hair cosmetic care; however, they had little knowledge in this regard. Accordingly, it is necessary to educate them for the segmentation of hair cosmetics and the appropriate hair care, to meet their diversified cosmetic needs which becomes diversified, and to offer them the correct information of hair beauty.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.381-388
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• 2019

Recently, the importance of individual skin characteristic is emphasized for customized beauty products. There are many studies on the concept of the syndrome differentiation, related to individual cosmetics in Korean Medicine. However, skin characteristic according to Yin deficiency syndrome (YDS), which is associated with aging, are yet to be clarified. The objective of this study was to evaluate the skin characteristic and questionnaire of female with YDS compare to with non-YDS. 218 healthy females between 40 and 59 years of age were assessed for the skin hydration, elasticity, brightness (L^* value), redness (a^* value), pore, pigmentation, wrinkle, and sebum by Corneometerr^®, Cutometerr^®, and Janus lll. Independent t-test showed lower hydration, lower elasticity, and higher redness in the YDS group compared to the non-YDS group (all p < 0.05). There was significant difference on the facial fever, insomnia, decreased amount of urine, and skin sensitive checklist. These results suggested that using the questionnaire associated with YDS and skin characteristic could separate skin types and apply to customized beauty products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.189-199
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• 2015

In this study, we have investigated the stability of sunscreens based on the solubility of organic UV absorbers in the oil and sun protection efficacy of the products composed of a combination of organic UV absorbers to develop more stable and efficient sunscreen products. Results showed that the solubility of the organic UV absorber and stability were varied depending on the type, storage conditions and concentration of oil. It was also observed from the products in the emulsion type. Various UV absorbances were determined to the products composed of the combination of organic UV absorbers. In some combinations, a synergistic effect was observed to make an increase in absorbance compared to a single component. In other cases, specific synergistic effect was displayed only when combined with the particular component. In addition, the storage condition also affected the sunscreen efficacy. In conclusion, this study confirmed that there are various factors which could affect the UV-blocking efficiency of sunscreen products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.79-86
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• 2007

The aim of this study was to investigate the inhibitory effects of Forsythia suspensa fruit extracts (FSfE) ($0.1{\sim}1.0%$) and their active component on melanogenesis. FSfE dose-dependently inhibited melanin synthesis (up to $63.1{\pm}3.1%$ at the concentration of 1.0%) without cell cytotoxicity. We purifed one active compound from FSfE and identified its structure. It was identified as 4-[(3,4-Dimethoxyphenyl)methyl)]dihydro-3-[(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)methyl]-2(3H)-furanone (arctigenin) by $^1H-NMR,\;^{13}C-NMR$, and Mass analysis. Arctigenin also inhibited melanin synthesis in a dose dependent manner (up to $52.7{\pm}3.1%$ at the concentration of $3.0{\mu}g/mL$). In order to verify the whitening activity of the cream containing 3% FSfE, we performed the clinical test with twenty five female volunteers for 8 weeks. Bioengineering analyses and visual assessment by doctors at the initial time point and 8 weeks after applications showed that cream containing FSfE have significant whiteining effect (paired t-test). From the results, we conclude that the FSfE can be used as a useful whitening agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.59-64
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• 2005

In case of lipsticks, observer's subjective sensitivity has been the main index to estimate gloss and gloss-lasting capability. The glossmeter has been applied to measure the gloss of make-up cosmetics like nail enamel, however is not effective for lipstick because of uneven sampling. Also gloss-lasting capability couldn't have been measured. In this study, we optimized measurement methods of gloss and gloss-lasting capability of lipsticks, which are highly correlated to subjective sensory tests. We set up the standard methods of gloss measurement by changing application conditions, for example, materials, sizes and application number of times and so on. And we introduced optimizing measurement system, in which shaking speed and temperature were controlled to measure gloss-lasting capability. Applying our methods, the gloss values were very close to the results of sensory tests, and we could express the gloss and gloss-lasting capability of lipsticks numerically Repeatability and reproducibility of our methods were certified by six-sigma statistical tool.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.219-226
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• 2021

Gastrodia elata has a very low pollination rate in natural state, and even in artificial cultivation, there are very few individuals that bloom due to the degeneration, so little studies have been conducted. This study confirmed that the potential as a cosmetic ingredient by evaluating the antioxidant activity through the evaluation of DPPH radical scavenging activity, anti-inflammatory activity through the inhibitory effect on nitric oxide production, and the moisturizing activity through the effect on promoting hyaluronic acid production by artificially flowering G. elata flower. It was also confirmed that the appearance rate and flowering rate of G. elata harvested in spring were high, and the content of gastrodin was 0.36%. The IC50 value of G. elata flower extract was 0.045% and it was confirmed that G. elata flower extract had higher radical scavenging activity than G. elata root extract. The NO production inhibitory activity against the flower extract showed a significant inhibitory effect from 1% to 83.2%. Hyaluronic acid production promotion efficacy was not confirmed in the G. elata root extract, but the production rate increased with concentration dependence in the flower extract, and it was the highest at 46.9% when 0.02% treatment was performed. Based on the above research results, it is judged that G. elata flower extract has high potential for use as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin moisturizing cosmetic ingredient.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.236-242
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• 2020

In this paper, we present the improvement in low moisturizing ability and stability that existing skin softeners have due to the low oil content, by developing skin softener using nanoemulsion of phospholipid liposome, based on the properties of nanoemulsion in cosmetic formulation. In this study, two types of oil; dimethicone (DC 200/6cs) or medium chain triglyceride (MCT), and two kinds of lecithin; unsaturated or saturated were respectively applied to produce nanoemulsion. In the particle size analysis of nanoemulsion, the droplet size of nanoemulsion containing DC200/6cs and unsaturated lecithin was the smallest, and all nanoemulsion showed high stability in the measurement of zeta potential. Therefore, with the smallest particle size and high stability, moisture contents and trans epidermal water loss(TEWL) were measured using the skin softener of DC200/6cs and unsaturated lecithin contained nanoemulsion, and the measurement was compared with the non-oil skin softener and the skin softener with only small amount of oil. The results showed that the moisture content of the skin softener using nanoemulsion increased greatly than other two skin softeners, showing high hydration ability and water retention capacity, and TEWL decreased greatly, therefore preventing the evaporation of moisture from the skin. As a result, the oil content and stability of the skin softener was improved by utilizing nanoemulson based of phospholipid liposome, and it is expected to be used in various ways in cosmetic industry.