A Study on the Whitening Effect of the Oriental Medicinal Herb Forsythia suspensa Fruit as a Cosmetic Ingredient

천연한방소재인 연교 추출물의 미백 효과에 관한 연구

  • 이정노 (코리아나 화장품 송파기술연구소) ;
  • 박재희 (코리아나 화장품 송파기술연구소) ;
  • 김상우 (코리아나 화장품 송파기술연구소) ;
  • 유영경 (코리아나 화장품 송파기술연구소) ;
  • 이강태 (코리아나 화장품 송파기술연구소) ;
  • 이건국 (코리아나 화장품 송파기술연구소)
  • Published : 2007.06.30

Abstract

The aim of this study was to investigate the inhibitory effects of Forsythia suspensa fruit extracts (FSfE) ($0.1{\sim}1.0%$) and their active component on melanogenesis. FSfE dose-dependently inhibited melanin synthesis (up to $63.1{\pm}3.1%$ at the concentration of 1.0%) without cell cytotoxicity. We purifed one active compound from FSfE and identified its structure. It was identified as 4-[(3,4-Dimethoxyphenyl)methyl)]dihydro-3-[(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)methyl]-2(3H)-furanone (arctigenin) by $^1H-NMR,\;^{13}C-NMR$, and Mass analysis. Arctigenin also inhibited melanin synthesis in a dose dependent manner (up to $52.7{\pm}3.1%$ at the concentration of $3.0{\mu}g/mL$). In order to verify the whitening activity of the cream containing 3% FSfE, we performed the clinical test with twenty five female volunteers for 8 weeks. Bioengineering analyses and visual assessment by doctors at the initial time point and 8 weeks after applications showed that cream containing FSfE have significant whiteining effect (paired t-test). From the results, we conclude that the FSfE can be used as a useful whitening agent.

본 연구는 연교 추출물과 연교 추출물에서 분리한 활성물질의 멜라닌 생성 억제 효과에 관한 것이다. 연교 추출물은 $0.1{\sim}1.0%$ (v/v)에서 세포독성이 없는 것을 확인하였으며 이를 바탕으로 멜라닌 생성억제 실험결과 1.0 %에서 $63.1{\pm}3.1%$ 저해 효과를 확인하였다. 또한 활성물질을 분리하여 $^1H-NMR,\;^{13}C-NMR$, Mass analysis 등의 기기분석 결과 리그난 계열의 활성물질인 4-[(3,4-Dimethoxyphenyl)methyl)]dihydro-3-[(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)methyl]-2(3H)-furanone (arctigenin)으로 동정되었다. 활성물질에 대한 멜라닌 저해효과를 확인한 결과 농도 의존적으로 $3.0{\mu}g/mL$에서 $52.7{\pm}3.1%$를 저해하는 것을 확인하였다. 또한 연교 추출물을 3 % 함유한 크림의 미백효과에 대한 임상실험을 진행한 결과 전문의의 육안평가와 기기평가 모두 통계적으로 유의한 결과를 얻을 수 있었다. 결론적으로 연교 추출물은 미백 효능을 갖는 화장품 소재로서의 개발 가능성이 클 것으로 기대된다.

Keywords

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