• Title/Summary/Keyword: Breaking waves

Search Result 231, Processing Time 0.021 seconds

Analytical Approximation in Deep Water Waves

  • Shin, JangRyong
    • Journal of Advanced Research in Ocean Engineering
    • /
    • v.2 no.1
    • /
    • pp.1-11
    • /
    • 2016
  • The objective of this paper is to present an analytical solution in deep water waves and verify the validity of the theory (Shin, 2015). Hence this is a follow-up to Shin (2015). Instead of a variational approach, another approach was considered for a more accurate assessment in this study. The products of two coefficients were not neglected in this study. The two wave profiles from the KFSBC and DFSBC were evaluated at N discrete points on the free-surface, and the combination coefficients were determined for when the two curves pass the discrete points. Thus, the solution satisfies the differential equation (DE), bottom boundary condition (BBC), and the kinematic free surface boundary condition (KFSBC) exactly. The error in the dynamic free surface boundary condition (DFSBC) is less than 0.003%. The wave theory was simplified based on the assumption tanh $D{\approx}1$ in this paper. Unlike the perturbation method, the results are possible for steep waves and can be calculated without iteration. The result is very simple compared to the 5th Stokes' theory. Stokes' breaking-wave criterion has been checked in this study.

Investigation on the Design Wave Forces for Ear-do Ocean Research Station II: Fluid Force in the Breaking Wave Field (이어도 종합해양과학기지에 대한 설계파력의 검토 II: 쇄파역에서의 유체력)

  • 전인식;심재설;최성진
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
    • /
    • v.12 no.4
    • /
    • pp.168-180
    • /
    • 2000
  • In the Part I, the three dimensional model testing with NNW deep water wave direction gave the results such that the occurrence of breaking waves over the peak of Ear-Do caused very small wave height at the structure position. But the measured wave forces were rather greater than the calculated forces based on deep water wave height. Furthermore, It was also perceived that the time series of the forces looked like corresponding to the case that waves were superimposed by an unidirectional current. In the present Part II, the current is presumed to be a flow secondly induced by breaking waves, and an extensive study to clarify the current in a quantitative sense is performed through numerical analysis and hydraulic experiment. The results showed that a strong circulation can surely occur in the vicinity of the structure due to radiation stress differentials given by the breaking waves. It was also recognized that the velocity of the induced current varied with the magnitude of energy dissipation rate introduced in the numerical analysis. The numerical analysis was tuned adjusting the dissipation rate so that the calculated wave field could closely match with the experimental results of Part I. The fluid force (in prototype) for the optimal match showed approximately 2.2% increased over the calculated value based on the deep water wave height (24.6m) whereas the force corresponding to the average of the experimental values showed the increase of about 13.0%.

  • PDF

On the Viscous Flow Around Breaking Waves Generated by a Submerged Cylinder(Part 2 : Aspects of Viscous Flow) (몰수실린더에 의하여 생성되는 쇄파주의 점성유동의 고찰(제2부: 점성유동특성))

  • B.S. Hyun;Y.H. Shin
    • Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
    • /
    • v.37 no.1
    • /
    • pp.91-98
    • /
    • 2000
  • The present paper is Part 2 of three-part paper for an experimental study on breaking waves generated by a submerged cylinder. Measurements of velocity and head loss profiles at the wakes of cylinder and breaker as well as the turbulent intensities in breaking region were made to elucidate the viscous aspects of breaking waves. Their mutual correlation is also investigated. It is found that the head loss profile is an excellent indicator of the strength and extent of breaker. Very high turbulent intensities measured at and just downstream of the breaker indicate the consequence of energy transfer of wave breaking into turbulence.

  • PDF

Experimental and Numerical Study on the Characteristics of Free Surface Waves by the Movement of a Circular Cylinder-Shaped Submerged Body in a Single Fluid Layer

  • Jun-Beom Kim;Eun-Hong Min;Weoncheol Koo
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
    • /
    • v.37 no.3
    • /
    • pp.89-98
    • /
    • 2023
  • Analyzing the interactions of free surface waves caused by a submerged-body movement is important as a fundamental study of submerged-body motion. In this study, a two-dimensional mini-towing tank was used to tow an underwater body for analyzing the generation and propagation characteristics of free surface waves. The magnitude of the maximum wave height generated by the underwater body motion increased with the body velocity at shallow submerged depths but did not increase further when the generated wave steepness corresponded to a breaking wave condition. Long-period waves were generated in the forward direction as the body moved initially, and then short-period waves were measured when the body moved at a constant velocity. In numerical simulations based on potential flow, the fluid pressure changes caused by the submerged-body motion were implemented, and the maximum wave height was accurately predicted; however, the complex physical phenomena caused by fluid viscosity and wave breaking in the downstream direction were difficult to implement. This research provides a fundamental understanding of the changes in the free surface caused by a moving underwater body.

Numerical Simulation of Two-dimensional Breaking Waves (2차원 쇄파의 수치해석)

  • Il-H.,Cho;Hang-S.,Choi
    • Bulletin of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
    • /
    • v.25 no.4
    • /
    • pp.1-6
    • /
    • 1988
  • In this paper two-dimensional breaking waves of plunger type are numerically simulated both on an even bottom and on a sinusoidally-varying bottom within the framework of potential theory. Based on the boundary integral method derived by Vinje and Brevig, fluid particles on the free surface are treated exactly by using semi-Lagrangian time-stepping. Numerical instability, in particular when the wave front becomes vertical, is discussed and the regriding method of nodal points has been found promising. Numerical accuracy is examined in terms of the wave energy and mass conservations. It is also found that the bottom topography affects significantly and the hydrostatic pressure contributes considerably to the nonoscillating force acting on the bottom, when waves are breaking.

  • PDF

Numerical Simulation of Breaking Waves around a Two-Dimensional Rectangular Cylinder Piercing Free Surface

  • Kim, Seung-Nam;Lee, Young-Gill
    • Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
    • /
    • v.5 no.4
    • /
    • pp.29-43
    • /
    • 2001
  • In this paper, free surface flows around an advancing two-dimensional rectangular cylinder piercing the free surface are studied using numerical and experimental methods. Especially, wave breaking phenomenon around the cylinder is treated in detail. A series of numerical simulations and experiments were performed for the purpose of comparison. For the numerical simulations, a finite difference method was adopted with a rectangular grid system, and the variation of the free surface was computed by the marker density method. The computational results are compared with the experiments. It is confirmed that the present numerical method is useful for the numerical simulation of nonlinear free surface waves around a piercing body.

  • PDF

Appearing Condition of Breaking Waves at Infant Stage and Numerical Simulation (쇄파의 초기단계 생성조건과 수치시뮬레이션)

  • Kwag, Seung-Hyun
    • Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
    • /
    • v.33 no.6
    • /
    • pp.873-879
    • /
    • 2009
  • The steady breakers at an infant stage are investigated through the numerical simulation. The appearing condition and characteristics of the sub-breaking waves are reviewed by analysing bow waves. The instability analysis is possibly done through the relationship between the free-surface curvature and circumferential force, which is obtained from the momentum equations. Navier-Stokes equations are solved by a finite difference method where the body-fitted coordinate system, the wall function and the advanced mesh system are invoked. The numerical result shows that the gradient of M/$U_s$ is greatly influenced by the Froude number and the decrease of M/$U_s$ indicates that the flows are unstable. Additionally flows with plunging or spilling are simulated successfully, but the application of breakers to the severely broken wave still remains to be settled in the future.

Numerical Simulation of Wave Breaking Near Ship Bow

  • Lee, Young-Gill;Kim, Nam-Chul;Yu, Jin-Won;Choi, Si-Young
    • Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
    • /
    • v.12 no.1
    • /
    • pp.16-27
    • /
    • 2008
  • The interaction between advancing ships and the waves generated by them plays important roles in wave resistances and ship motions. Wave breaking phenomena near the ship bow at different speeds are investigated both numerically and experimentally. Numerical simulations of free surface profiles near the fore bodies of ships are performed and visualized to grasp the general trend or the mechanism of wave breaking phenomena from moderate waves rather than concentrating on local chaotic irregularities as ship speeds increase. Navier-Stokes equations are differentiated based on the finite difference method. The Marker and Cell (MAC) Method and Marker-Density Method are employed, and they are compared for the description of free surface conditions associated with the governing equations. Extra effort has been directed toward the realization of extremely complex free surface conditions at wave breaking. For this purpose, the air-water interface is treated with marker density, which is used for two layer flows of fluids with different properties. Adaptation schemes and refinement of the numerical grid system are also used at local complex flows to improve the accuracy of the solutions. In addition to numerical simulations, various model tests are performed in a ship model towing tank. The results are compared with numerical calculations for verification and for realizing better, more efficient research performance. It is expected that the present research results regarding wave breaking and the geometry of the fore body of ship will facilitate better hull form design productivity at the preliminary ship design stage, especially in the case of small and fast ship design. Also, the obtained knowledge on the impact due to the interaction of breaking waves and an advancing hull surface is expected to be applicable to investigation of the ship bow slamming problem as a specific application.

Automated Surface Wave Measurements for Evaluating the Depth of Surface-Breaking Cracks in Concrete

  • Kee, Seong-Hoon;Nam, Boohyun
    • International Journal of Concrete Structures and Materials
    • /
    • v.9 no.3
    • /
    • pp.307-321
    • /
    • 2015
  • The primary objective of this study is to investigate the feasibility of an innovative surface-mount sensor, made of a piezoelectric disc (PZT sensor), as a consistent source for surface wave velocity and transmission measurements in concrete structures. To this end, one concrete slab with lateral dimensions of 1500 by 1500 mm and a thickness of 200 mm was prepared in the laboratory. The concrete slab had a notch-type, surface-breaking crack at its center, with depths increasing from 0 to 100 mm at stepwise intervals of 10 mm. A PZT sensor was attached to the concrete surface and used to generate incident surface waves for surface wave measurements. Two accelerometers were used to measure the surface waves. Signals generated by the PZT sensors show a broad bandwidth with a center frequency around 40 kHz, and very good signal consistency in the frequency range from 0 to 100 kHz. Furthermore, repeatability of the surface wave velocity and transmission measurements is significantly improved compared to that obtained using manual impact sources. In addition, the PZT sensors are demonstrated to be effective for monitoring an actual surface-breaking crack in a concrete beam specimen subjected to various external loadings (compressive and flexural loading with stepwise increases). The findings in this study demonstrate that the surface mount sensor has great potential as a consistent source for surface wave velocity and transmission measurements for automated health monitoring of concrete structures.

A Synoptic and Climatological Comparison of Record-breaking Heat Waves in Korea and Europe (한반도와 유럽에서 발생한 폭염의 종관기후학적 특성 비교)

  • Kim, Jiyoung;Lee, Dae-Geun;Kysely, Jan
    • Atmosphere
    • /
    • v.18 no.4
    • /
    • pp.355-365
    • /
    • 2008
  • Synoptic and climatological characteristics of heat waves over Korea and Europe as well as their biometeorological impacts were compared. In July of 1994, excess deaths of about 2,388 in the population of South Korea are estimated by the modified excess death calculation algorithm ofKysely (2004). The excess deaths correspond to the net mortality increase of 12.5% in July of 1994 if we compare the estimated value to the expected number of deaths in this month (i.e., about 19,171). The comparative study of heat waves in Korea and Europe shows that the record-breaking heat waves in both regions are closely associated with prolonged droughts. In particular, reduction of soil moisture, precipitation and cloud cover and enhancement of insolation during the drought periods are very likely to be related to the increase in the intensity and the duration ofheat waves. Climate models predict that the frequency, intensity, and duration of heat waves in the 21 st century will be greatly enhanced in both areas. In order to reduce the biometeorological and socioeconomic impacts due to heat waves, not only the development of heat-related mortality prediction model that can be widely applied to many climate regimes, but also studies on the climatological association between extreme temperatures and abnormal hydrological cycle are needed.