Numerical Simulation of Two-dimensional Breaking Waves

2차원 쇄파의 수치해석

In this paper two-dimensional breaking waves of plunger type are numerically simulated both on an even bottom and on a sinusoidally-varying bottom within the framework of potential theory. Based on the boundary integral method derived by Vinje and Brevig, fluid particles on the free surface are treated exactly by using semi-Lagrangian time-stepping. Numerical instability, in particular when the wave front becomes vertical, is discussed and the regriding method of nodal points has been found promising. Numerical accuracy is examined in terms of the wave energy and mass conservations. It is also found that the bottom topography affects significantly and the hydrostatic pressure contributes considerably to the nonoscillating force acting on the bottom, when waves are breaking.