• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
• /
• 2006.05a
• /
• pp.1931-1934
• /
• 2006

The accuracy impact of using high-order Boussinesq-type model as compared to the typical order model is examined in this paper. The multi-layer model developed by Lynett and Liu(2004a) is used for simulating of wave breaking over a step region. The overall comparisons between the two-layer model and the hydraulic experiments are quite good. The one-layer model overshoals the wave near the breakpoint, while the two-layer model shoals at a rate more consistent with the experimental data.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.19 no.2 s.63
• /
• pp.29-33
• /
• 2005

The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and design of coastal structures. Numerical experiments are conducted to identify the shoaling and breaking characteristics of a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation-based model. Simulated shoaling showed good agreement with the Shouto's formula, and the results of the breaking experiment agreed well with experimented data, over several beach profile.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.6 no.3
• /
• pp.281-289
• /
• 1994

An equation set of nonlinear model for regular/irregular waves presented in this study can be applied to waves travelling from deep water to shallow water, which is different from the Boussinesq equations. The presented equations completely satisfy the linear dispersion relationship and when expanded, they are proven to be consistent with the Boussinesq equation of several types. In addition, the position of averaged velocity below the still water level is estimated based on the linear wave theory.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.19 no.5
• /
• pp.418-428
• /
• 2007

In the calculation of wave propagation by Boussinesq equation model, it is very common to experience numerical noises generated from nonlinear interaction and breaking wave occurrence, and the numerical solution is rapidly diverged unless the noises are properly controlled. A comparative study was here undertaken for the characteristics of three different lowpass filters (FFT filter, Gaussian filter and Shapiro filter) which are all designed to be applied to the interim results of numerical calculation. The numerical results obtained with application of respective filter techniques were compared with the results of an existing hydraulic experiment for the aspects of noise suppression, conservation of main signal and altering time. The results show that the Shapiro filter can be best applied with optimal choices of its element number, pass number and filtering tune interval. The combination of the number of filter element off, pass number of 50 or less, and application interval of 100 to 200 time steps generally showed good performance in both accuracy and efficiency of the numerical calculation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.19 no.5
• /
• pp.446-456
• /
• 2007

Numerical analyses of stem waves, the interaction between incident and reflected waves of obliquely incident regular waves along a vertical wall in a constant water depth, are presented. For the numerical model of the analysis, the two-layer Boussinesq equations developed by Lynett and Liu(2004a,b) are employed. Numerical results are compared with both laboratory measurements and those obtained using parabolic approximation model. The overall comparisons between the results from the two numerical models and the experiments are good. However, the two-layer Boussinesq model is more accurate than the parabolic approximation model as the angle of incident waves increases. In particular, the higher harmonic generation due to the wave nonlinearity is captured only in the Boussinesq model.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 2011.02a
• /
• pp.57-57
• /
• 2011

지진해일은 진행속도가 빠르고 파장이 길며 파형의 변화 없이 먼 거리를 진행 할 수 있어 주변지역은 물론 멀리 떨어진 지역에도 심한 범람피해를 야기시킨다. 지진해일의 일반적인 특징으로 장파와 단파가 합성되어 있고 먼 거리를 전파할 경우 분산효과의 역할이 중요하게 된다. 특히 우리나라의 동해안에 영향을 주는 지진해일은 단주기파 성분이 강하고 파장에 비해 먼 거리를 전파하기에 분산을 고려하는 선형 Boussinesq 방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하는 것이 바람직하다. 하지만 지금까지의 지진해일 전파모의를 위한 모형은 선형 Boussinesq 방정식의 복잡한 계산과 계산시간이 길다는 단점 때문에 선형 천수방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하고 분산효과는 수치분산을 이용하여 고려해왔다. 지진해일 해석 시 일반적으로 사용되어 오던 기존의 leap-frog 유한차분 모형(Imamura et al., 1988; 조용식, 1996)은 지배방정식으로 선형 천수방정식을 사용하고 파의 분산효과는 수치분산을 이용하여 고려하므로 정해진 시간 간격에 대해 수심에 따라 격자 간격을 적절히 선택해야 하는데 수심이 복잡하게 변하는 경우 격자간격 조정이 불가능하여 분산효과를 정도 높게 고려할 수 없다. 이 문제점을 해결하기 위하여 윤성범 등(2004)은 파동방정식의 인위적인 분산항을 이용하여 Boussinesq 방정식의 분산효과를 고려할 수 있는 능동적인 분산보정기법을 제안하였고 Cho et al.(2007)는 일정한 수심에서 수치적인 분산오차가 Boussinesq 방정식의 물리적인 분산항을 대체하도록 수심, 격자 간격 및 계산 시간 간격 사이의 관계식을 유도하고 Boussinesq 방정식의 분산항과 일치하는 수치분산을 이용하여 실용적인 분산보정기법을 개발하였다. 이에 Ahn(2010)은 현재 컴퓨터의 계산 능력이 향상되어 선형 Boussinesq 방정식을 직접 차분하여 계산하는데 무리가 없다고 판단하여 선형 Boussinesq 방정식을 직접 차분한 모형을 개발하였다. 본 연구에서는 기존의 원해 지진해일 전파모의에 이용되어왔던 선형 천수방정식에 수치분산을 고려한 모형 대신 선형 Boussinesq 방정식의 유한차분 모형을 제안하였으며 기존의 선형 Boussinesq 방정식 모형의 격자와 수심간의 제약을 없애기 위해 차분 기법을 달리 한 2차 정확도의 유한차분 모형을 제안하였다. 검증을 위하여 선형 Boussinesq 방정식의 해석해(Carrier, 1991)와 비교하였다.

• Tribology and Lubricants
• /
• v.14 no.4
• /
• pp.121-127
• /
• 1998

In this study, a numerical procedure to solve a contact problem has been developed. The procedure takes advantage of signal processing technique in frequency domain to achieve shorter computing time. Boussinesq's equation was adopted as the response function. This procedure is applicable to a non-periodic surface profile as well as a periodic one. The validity of this procedure has been established by comparing the numerical results with the exact solutions. The fastness of this procedure was shown in comparison with other algorithm.

• Kyungpook Mathematical Journal
• /
• v.49 no.1
• /
• pp.81-93
• /
• 2009

Bifurcation method of dynamical systems is employed to investigate exact solitary wave solutions and kink wave solutions in the generalized modified Boussinesq equation. Under some parameter conditions, their explicit expressions are obtained. Some previous results are extended.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
• /
• 2003.08a
• /
• pp.240-244
• /
• 2003

파랑의 변형 가운데 천수, 굴절, 회절, 반사를 예측하는 수학적 모형은 크게 두 가지 유형으로 나눌 수 있는데, 첫 번째로 파형경사인 ha(k：파수. $\alpha$：진폭)를 비선형의 매개변수로 하는 Stokes 파랑식이 있고, 두 번째로 상대파고인 $\alpha$/h를 비선형의 매개변수로 하고 상대수심인 kh를 분산성의 매개변수로 하는 천수방정식(Shallow water equation)이 있다. 파랑의 변형 가운데 천수, 굴절만을 예측하고 회절, 반사를 예측하지 못하는 수학적 모형으로는 에너지 이송방정식이 있다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.2 no.2
• /
• pp.112-117
• /
• 1990

Boussinesq-type equations should be employed in which the water surface profile is considerably steep or the bottom topography is abruptly changed. The primary reason is that the pressure deviates significantly from the hydrostatic pressure distribution due to the large curvature of the stream lines. It is shown that such a Boussinesq type equation can be also derived by making use of the concept of the averaged flow description for specifying the turbulence effects. In addition, a numerical scheme is developed to solve the equations and the effects of the Boussinesq term is briefly investigated.