• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
• /
• 2007.05a
• /
• pp.576-580
• /
• 2007

수치기법이 복잡한 Boussinesq 방정식 대신 간단한 선형 Boussinesq 형태의 파동방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하면서도 완변수심상 지진해일 전파시 요구되는 물리적 분산효과를 정도 높게 고려할 수 있는 분산보정 지진해일 전파 유한요소모형을 개발하였다. 수심이 변하는 지형에서의 분산보정능력을 검증하기 위해 수중 원형천퇴상을 전파하는 Gaussian 형상의 가상지진에 대해 수치모의를 수행하고, 그 결과를 선형 Boussinesq 방정식에 의해 계산된 수치해와 비교하였다. 그 결과 개발된 유한요소모형이 수심이 변하는 지형에서도 상당히 정확하다는 것이 입증되었다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.14 no.4
• /
• pp.274-281
• /
• 2002

Numerical analysis for the Bragg reflection due to a sinusoidally and a doubly-sinusoidally varying seabeds was performed by using a couple of ordinary differential equations derived from the Boussinesq equations. Incident waves are a train of cnoidal waves. The effects of the dispersion and shape of seabed were investigated. It is shown that the reflection of a sinusoidally varying seabed is enhanced by increasing the dispersion and the amplitude of a seabed. The reflection of waves over a doubly-sinusoidally varying seabed can also be enhanced by increasing the amplitude of seabed decreasing the difference of wave numbers of seabed components.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.35 no.5
• /
• pp.1061-1071
• /
• 2015

In the present study, the Navier-Stokes (N-S) equations delineating water flows inside porous media were derived applying Reynolds transport theorem in order to provide a basis for analyzing water wave problems inside the porous media. Then, the derived N-S equations were compared with the same species of equations in existing researches. Based on the N-S equations, a set of Boussinesq equations was then derived in such a form that the dispersiveness and nonlinearity of water waves inside the porous media can be properly reproduced. Finally, numerical analyses were carried out to demonstrate the validity of the equations. The reflection and transmission coefficients of porous breakwaters were calculated and compared with the results of existing hydraulic experiments. The numerical results showed a rather sensitive dependency on the virtual mass coefficient of grains constituting the porous media. The selection of the coefficient with zero turned out to give nice agreements with numerical and experimental results.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
• /
• 2005.05b
• /
• pp.527-531
• /
• 2005

지진해일파는 풍파에 비해 파장이 매우 길어 장파로 간주되지만 조석에 비하면 파장이 짧아 상대적으로 분산성이 강하므로, 먼거리를 전파하는 경우에는 분산성을 고려하여 해석하여야 한다. 특히 동해에서 발생하는 지진해일의 경우 파원이 작고 수심이 깊어 단주기파 성분이 강하므로 그 물리적인 분산효과가 매우 중요하다. 이에 본 연구에서는 지진해일 수치모의시 임의로 구성된 유한요소망과 양해법을 사용하면서도 복잡한 Boussinesq 방정식 대신 간단한 Boussinesq-type의 파동방정식을 사용하면서도 물리적 분산효과를 정도 높게 고려할 수 있는 능동적인 분산보정기법을 이용한 2차원 유한요소모형을 개발하여 가상진원에 의해 발생된 2차원 지진해일 전파에 대하여 수치모의한 결과, 요소크기와 시간간격이 고정되었음에도 불구하고 다양한 수심에 대해 선형 Boussinesq 방정식의 해석해와 매우 잘 일치하는 좋은 결과를 보였다.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
• /
• v.38 no.6 s.155
• /
• pp.429-438
• /
• 2005

In this study, a couple of ordinary differential equations which can describe random waves are derived from the Boussinesq equations. Incident random waves are generated by using the TMA(TEXEL storm, MARSEN, ARSLOE) shallow-water spectrum. The governing equations are integrated with the 4-th order Runge-Kutta method. By using newly derived wave equations, nonlinear energy interaction of propagating waves in constant depth is studied. The characteristics of random waves propagate over a sinusoidally varying topography lying on a sloping beach are also investigated numerically. Transmission and reflection of random waves are considerably affected by nonlinearity.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
• /
• v.32 no.4
• /
• pp.447-455
• /
• 1999

In this study, the Bragg resonant of cnoidal waves propagating over a sinusoidally varying topography lying on a uniformly sloping beach is investigated. The governing equations derived from the Boussinesq equations are numerically integrated. The effects of fast varying terms and nonlinearity in reflection coefficients are also examined. Variation of reflection coefficient for different sloping beaches is studied. It is found that reflection coefficients are not strongly dependent on slopes of beaches.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.17 no.3
• /
• pp.202-212
• /
• 2005

In the design of an of offshore structure located near an underwater shoal, the same amount of attention given to the wave height may have to be put to the wave induced current as well since some of the wave energy translates to the current. In the present study, two numerical models each based on the nonlinear Boussinesq equation and the linear mild slope equation are applied to calculate the wave deformation and secondly induced current around a shoal. The underwater shoal in Vincent and briggs' experiment (1989) is used here, and all non-breaking wave conditions of the experiment with various monochromatic and unidirectional or multidirectional spectral wave incidences are concerned. Both numerical models clearly showed wave induced currents symmetrically farmed along the centerline over the shoal. The calculated wave heights along a preset line also generally showed very nice agreements with the experimental values.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.18 no.2
• /
• pp.154-165
• /
• 2006

In the present study, a numerical model using Boussinesq equation is set up to predict the interacted equilibrium between waves and their induced currents in the occurrence of breaking waves over an underwater shoal, and the numerical results are compared with results of existing hydraulic experiments. A sensitivity analysis has been done to find out appropriate values of breaking wave parameters with the result (regular wave case) of Vincent and Briggs (1989)’ experiment. Then the numerical model is applied to the irregular wave cases of the experiment and the hydraulic model test of Ieodo which is a natural undersea shoal. The results show that a strong current forms in the wave direction at the downstream side of the shoals, causing the attenuation of wave heights there. The calculated wave heights generally show a similar pattern with the measured data.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
• /
• 2010.05a
• /
• pp.52-56
• /
• 2010

본 연구에서는 지진해일의 전파 과정을 모의함에 있어 선형 천수방정식의 수치분산을 이용하는 기법이 아닌 선형 Boussinesq 방정식을 직접 차분하는 유한차분기법을 제안하였다. 지배방적식과 차분식의 일치성을 해석하기 위해 이산화 오차를 확인하고, 수치해의 안정적 수렴여부를 판단하기 위해 Von neumann 안정성 해석을 수행하였다. 또한 기법의 정확성을 검증하기 위하여 Gauss 분포의 초기 자유수면변위를 갖는 문제에 적용하여 선형 Boussinesq 방정식의 해석해와 비교하였다. 그 결과 기존의 선형 천수방정식을 차분화한 수치모형에 비하여 정확한 결과를 제공하였고 분산보정기법을 이용한 수치모형과 동일한 정확도를 보였으나 본 수치모형을 이용했을 때 비교적 넓은 범위의 조건에서 정확도 높은 결과를 제공하였다.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.31 no.5
• /
• pp.346-351
• /
• 2017

The aim of this paper is to apply the Crowhurst-Zhenquan scheme to one-dimensional Madsen-Sørensen extended Boussinesq equations. In order to verify the application of the aforementioned scheme, the propagation of solitary waves was simulated for two different cases of submarine topography; e.g., a plane beach and submerged breakwater. The simulated results are compared to the results of recent studies and show favorable agreement. The behavior of progressive waves is also investigated.