• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.276-284
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• 2011

The rip current occurred at Haeundae beach was numerically investigated under directional random wave environment. The numerical simulation was performed using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation model, FUNWAVE which is capable of simulating nearshore circulation since it includes the effect of wave-induced momentum flux and horizontal turbulent mixing. The results of numerical simulation show the time-dependent evolution of the wave-induced nearshore circulation system (including rip current) that are caused by nonlinear transformation of directional irregular waves due to unique topography of Haeundae. From the results, it was found that rip current is well generated and developed where relatively lower wave height and relatively deeper water depth along the longshore direction, and sudden and strong events of rip current were observed.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2022.05a
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• pp.177-177
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• 2022

기후변화 및 해안 구조물의 증가 등 여러 원인이 연안침식 및 해안선 변화와 같은 연안의 지형변화를 가속하고 있다. 빠르게 변화하는 연안의 지형변화예측 및 대응책 강구를 위해서는 연안의 유사이송 현상에 대한 신속한 예측이 필요하다. 본 연구에서는 GPU 엔진 기반 파랑해석모형인 Celeris Advent를 활용하여 실시간으로 연안의 유사이송 모의가 가능한 수치모형을 개발하였다. Celeris Advent는 GPU의 병렬코어를 활용해 실시간 연산과 GUI를 통한 사용자와의 실시간 상호작용이 가능한 모형이다. 지배방정식은 확장형 Boussinesq 방정식에 유사이송방정식을 양방향 결합하여 구성하였고, 지배방정식에는 하이브리드 유한체적-유한차분 수치기법을 적용하여 이송항은 유한체적법(Kurganov & Petrova, 2007), 소스항은 유한차분법을 통해 이산화하여 해석한다. 유사이송방정식은 수심적분형 이송확산방정식에 침식 및 퇴적 플럭스를 반영하는 소스항을 결합하여, 이송항 및 확산항을 통해 유사의 이송/확산을 고려함과 동시에 소스항을 통해 하상과의 상호작용을 고려하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.11-19
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• 2024

In this study, the program was modified by adding the empirical formula of EurOtop (2018) to enable calculation of wave overtopping on armoured slope structures in the FUNWAVE-TVD model using the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation. The validity of the modified numerical model was verified by comparing it with CLASH data and experiment data for the rubble mound structure. This model accurately reproduced the change in wave overtopping rate according to the difference in the roughness factor of the armoured block, and well reproduced the rate of decrease in wave overtopping rate due to the increase in relative freeboard. The overtopping rate of the armoured slope structures showed significant differences depending on the positioning condition of the armoured blocks. When Tetrapods were placed with regular positioning, the overtopping rate increased significantly compared to when they were placed with random positioning, and it was consistent with when they were placed with Rocks. Meanwhile, when rocks were placed in one row, the wave overtopping rate was greater than when rocks were placed in two rows, which is believed to be due to the influence of the roughness and permeability of the structure's surface.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.149-155
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• 1999

A treatment of wave breaking is included in the extended Boussinesq equations of Nwogu. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the computa¬tional domain. The model uses fourth-order Adams predictor-corrector method to advance in time, and discretizes first-order spatial derivatives to fourth-order accuracy, and thus reducing all truncation errors to a level smaller than the dispersive terms. The generated wave fields are found to be good and the corresponding wave heights are very close to their target values. For the tests of wave breaking, although agreement is considered to be reasonable, wave heights in the inner surf zone are over-predicted. This indicates the breaking parameters in the model should be adjusted.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.49 no.1
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• pp.61-72
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• 2016

In Korea, the aquifers at the coastal areas are mostly shallow alluvial unconfined aquifers. To simulate the flow and dispersion in unconfined aquifer, a FDM model has been developed to solve the nonlinear Boussinesq equation. Related analysis and verification have been executed. The iteration method is used to solve the nonlinearity, and the model shows 3-D shape because it is a 2-D y model that consider the undulation of water table and bottom. For the verification of the model, the output of flow module is compared to the 1-D analytic solution of Lee (1989) which have the drawdown or uplift boundary condition, and the two results show almost the same value. and the mass balance of dispersion module shows about 10% error. The developed model can be used for the analysis and design of the flow and dispersion in the unconfined aquifers. The model has been applied to the estuary area of Ssangcheon watershed, and the parameters have been deduced as a result : hydraulic conductivity is 90 m/day, and longitudinal dispersivity is 15 m. And the analysis with these parameters shows that the wells are situated in the influence circle of each others except for No. 7 well. Groundwater discharge to sea is $3700m^3/day$. And the chlorine ion ($cl^-$) concentration at the pumping wells increase at least 1000 mg/L if groundwater dam is not exist, so the groundwater dam plays an important role for the prevention of sea water intrusion.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.527-537
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• 2003

The characteristics of ship induced waves caused by navigation become widely different from both ship's speed and water depth condition. The ship induced waves specially generated in coastwise routes frequently give rise to call unforeseen danger for swimmers and small boats as well as shoreline erosion or sea wall destruction in coastal zones. The main concern of ship induced wave study until now is either how to reduce ship resistance or how to manoeuvre the ship safely under a constant water depth in the view point of shipbuilding engineers. Moreover, due to the trends for appearance of the high speed ships at the shallow coastal water, we are confronted with the danger of damages from those ship induced waves. Therefore, it is necessary to examine the development of ship induced waves and the influence of their deformation effects according to its propagation ray. In present study, in order to predict the development of the ship induced waves and their propagation under the conditions of complicate and variable shallow water depth with varying ship's speed, we constructed a computer model using Boussinesq equation with a fixed coordinate system and verified the model results by comparison with experimental results. Additionally, the model was applied under the variable water depth based on actual passage and we then confirmed the importance of the variable water depth consideration.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.154-165
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• 2006

In the present study, a numerical model using Boussinesq equation is set up to predict the interacted equilibrium between waves and their induced currents in the occurrence of breaking waves over an underwater shoal, and the numerical results are compared with results of existing hydraulic experiments. A sensitivity analysis has been done to find out appropriate values of breaking wave parameters with the result (regular wave case) of Vincent and Briggs (1989)’ experiment. Then the numerical model is applied to the irregular wave cases of the experiment and the hydraulic model test of Ieodo which is a natural undersea shoal. The results show that a strong current forms in the wave direction at the downstream side of the shoals, causing the attenuation of wave heights there. The calculated wave heights generally show a similar pattern with the measured data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.314-326
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• 2014

On 31 March 2007, the abnormal wave occurred along the western coast of Korea. In order to investigate the generation mechanism of abnormal waves and to understand the amplification process of the abnormal waves, the observed data were analyzed and one-dimensional numerical model experiments were performed by using both the linear shallow water equation and the linear Boussinesq equation models. Various types of pressure jump for the abnormal waves previously proposed by other researchers were reviewed. As a result, it was not possible to reproduce the abnormal waves from the previously proposed pressure jumps. In this study, we proposed a new form of pressure jump, and numerical simulations were performed in order to check the validity of the proposed pressure jump. The numerical results showed that the calculated period of abnormal waves and the maximum water elevations agreed reasonably well with those of the observations.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.238-245
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• 2015

Recently, Choi et al.(2015) showed that a numerical simulation of the SandyDuck experiment under a directional random wave environment agreed well with the experimental data including the wave height distribution of the random waves, the well-developed longshore current and its energetic fluctuation. Based on the Boussinesq modeling, this study investigates the effect of the alongshore variations, which are induced by not only the field topography but also the phase interaction of multidirectional random waves in the surf zone wave field, on the rip currents. As a result, transient rip currents as well as topographical rip currents cause the complicated surfzone circulation and mixing process due to their interactions in a multi-directional random wave condition while the topographical rip currents are dominant in a monochromatic wave condition.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.257-264
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• 2021

This study established a numerical model capable of calculating the wave overtopping rate of coastal structures by nonlinear irregular waves using the FUNWAVE-TVD model, a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. Here, a numerical model was established by coding the mean value approach equations of EurOtop (2018) and empirical formula by Goda (2009), and adding them as subroutines of the FUNWAVE-TVD model. The verification of the model was performed by numerically calculating the wave overtopping rate of nonlinear irregular waves on vertical wall structures and comparing them with the experimental results presented in EurOtop (2018). As a result of the verification, the numerical calculation result according to the EurOtop equation of this model was very well matched with the experimental result in all relative freeboard (R_c/H_mo) range under non-impulsive wave conditions, and the numerical calculation result of empirical formula was evaluated slightly smaller than the experimental result in R_c/H_mo < 0.8 and slightly larger than the experimental result in R_c/H_mo > 0.8. The results of this model were well represented in both the exponential curve and the power curve under impulsive wave conditions. Therefore, it was confirmed that this numerical model can simulate the wave overtopping rate caused by nonlinear irregular waves in an vertical wall structure.