• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.333-342
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• 2017

In order to understand the mechanism of the cross-shore evolution of storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) profiles of a sandy beach, the vertically two-dimensional laboratory experiment was performed with a movable bed. The beach profiles and free surface motion were measured under monochromatic wave conditions evolving the storm and normal beach profiles. The observation was conducted in the surf zone during the alternation of the two wave conditions to reach its quasi-equilibrium state. The sandbar-crest and trough and the steep berm were evolved due to the plunging breakers in the storm case, and the bar-trough was decayed due to the spilling breakers in the normal case. From the measurements, it was found that the storm wave case was in an erosion state and the normal wave case was in an accretion state. The strong undertow, which is a dominant factor of the offshore migration mechanism, was developed in the storm wave case, and the weak undertow was developed in the normal wave case. The skewness and the asymmetry of the nonlinear wave motion, which is a dominant factor of the onshore migration mechanism, was measured similarly in both cases.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.61-97
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• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Marine Engineers Conference
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• 2012.06a
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• pp.215-215
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• 2012

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.630-636
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• 2008

Monitoring the location of the shoreline and foreshore changes through the time and core tasks are carried out by coastal engineers for a wide range of research. With the advent of digital imaging technology, the shore-based video monitoring system provides many advantages than field surveys. This study presents the development and construction(installation) of video monitoring system to assist the study of coastal and shoreline dynamics and evolution, especially sandbar variation at the Nakdong river estuary. For the purpose of this study, at high building near the Dadea-po beach (St. 2) and Jinudo(island) (St. 1) foreshore region, where coastline variation is highly active, 5 video cameras installed; the coastline movement has monitored since Aug. 2007 using the systems. From the image results of video camera, the 'Spit' type sandbar appears at the foreshore region of Doyodeung and Dadea-po beach and measured the deposition process of Jinudo(island) foreshore region. As a result, the monitoring system using video-based technique built in this study would be able to identify changes in the area and width of shoreline and beach of Nakdong river estuary.

• The Korean Journal of Quaternary Research
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 1993

The shingle beach as a typical pocket beach located in Jeongdo-ri, Wando, Cheolanam-do, Korea has been investigated in terms of textural characteristics, mainly gravel shape and roundness. In the Jeongdo-ri gravel beach, changes of beach profile after storm weather and textural parameters of gravels were observed and measured from May 1992 to March 1993. Beach profile is divided into two different Fair-weather zone and Storm-weather zone influenced by dynamic condition of wave energy. The former is affected by wave and tide under fair-weather condition, the latter seems to be formed under storm-weather condition. Each zone comprises a series of beach faces and berms formed by continuous sedimentary processes of swash, overwash and backwash. Storm-weather zone is subdivided into three groups having a pair of beach face and berm respectively. Mean sizes of berm gravel(45.5 mm -123.6 mm) are coarser than gravels of beach face (36.8 mm - 78.3 mm) in fair-weather zone. On the other hand, in storm-weather zone, gravels of berms (33.1 mm -82.5 mm) are finer than those of beachfaces (46.2 mm - 105.2 mm). The proportion of disc shaped gravels of berm (50.0% - 58.5 %) is higher than that of beachface (45.9 % - 51.3 %) in each subzone except C-group of storm-weather zone. And the proportion of the equant shaped gravel increases about up to 10% seaward. Therefore, shore-normal distribution of gravels seems to be affected by shape and size sorting effects. Shore-parallel distribution pattern of gravel shape is more distinctive than size distribution patterns. That is, disc and blade shaped particles decrease up to 20% and 13% respectively, and equants increase up to 34% to the westward. Gravels plotted on Sneed and Folk's triangular diagram are more compacted and elongated with decreasing size. Therefore primary gravels are shaped by characteristics of country rock e.g. cleavage, joint etc., and secondary are affected by sorting and size-controlled process evolution by wave action.

• Geomechanics and Engineering
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.85-92
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• 2020

This study adopted soil test and laboratory physical model experiments to simulate the tailings impoundment accumulation process according to the principle of similarity. Relying on the practical engineering, it analyzed the tailings deposition characteristics on dry beach surface during the damming process, as well as the variation rules of dam saturation line. Results suggested that, the tailings particles gradually became finer along the dry beach surface to inside the impoundment. The particle size suddenly changed at the junction between the deposited beach and the water surface, which displayed an obvious coarsening phenomenon. Besides, the deposited beach exhibited the vertical feature of coarse upward and fine downward on the whole. Additionally, in the physical model, the saturation line elevated with the increase in dam height, and its amplitude was relatively obvious within the range of 1.0-4.5 m away from the initial dam. Under flood condition, the saturation line height was higher than that under normal condition on the whole, with the maximum height difference of 4 cm. This study could provide an important theoretical basis for further studies on dam failure experiments and the evolution rules of leaked tailings flow.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.96-102
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• 2014

A three-dimensional beach evolution model was presented to predict morphodynamics around a river mouth. The presented model was based on the depth-averaged (2DH) and quasi three-dimensional (Q-3D) nearshore current modules, and the model took into account shoreline changes, the effect of advection diffusion of suspended load and discharged sediments from the river. First, the 3D beach evolution model was applied to the formation of sand spits and terrace at the river mouth in order to investigate the performance of the model. Secondly, the model was applied to the river mouth at the Ara River, facing the Sea of Japan. The formation of sand spit at the Ara River in winter season was reproduced. The computed result showed qualitatively agreement with field site observation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.276-284
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• 2011

The rip current occurred at Haeundae beach was numerically investigated under directional random wave environment. The numerical simulation was performed using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation model, FUNWAVE which is capable of simulating nearshore circulation since it includes the effect of wave-induced momentum flux and horizontal turbulent mixing. The results of numerical simulation show the time-dependent evolution of the wave-induced nearshore circulation system (including rip current) that are caused by nonlinear transformation of directional irregular waves due to unique topography of Haeundae. From the results, it was found that rip current is well generated and developed where relatively lower wave height and relatively deeper water depth along the longshore direction, and sudden and strong events of rip current were observed.

• The Journal of the Petrological Society of Korea
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2008

The metasedimentary rocks of the Nampo Croup consisting of metaconglomerates, metasandstones, phyllites are exposed in the area of the Daechcon beach and Maryangri, Seocheon-gun. Their typical metamorphic assemblages of Bt-Mus-Grt-Qtz (${\pm}Pl{\pm}Chl$) and Bt-Mus-Qtz (${\pm}Pl{\pm}Chl$) indicate that they have been under intermediate P/T type metamorphism and were metamorphosed to garnet zone grade of amphibolite-facies during the Daebo Orogeny. Pressure-temperature conditions of peak metamorphism estimated from geothermobarometries are $560{\sim}595^{\circ}C$, $6.9{\sim}8.2\;kb$ respectively. The results of K-Ar biotite age determination are $143.2{\pm}3.6\;Ma$, $122.6{\pm}2.4\;Ma$ and $124.8{\pm}2.4\;Ma$ and the last two ages are considered as the results of later-stage thermal perturbation. On the bases of the formation age of Daedong Supergroup of $187{\sim}172\;Ma$ (Han et al., 2006; Jeon et al., 2007) combined with the results of this study, the hypothetical model of tectonometamorphic evolution of the study area during Daebo Orogeny is proposed. Crustal thickening resulted from folding and duplexing of thrusts in the area initiated at around 175 Ma just after sedimentation of Nampo Croup. And then rapid cooling by normal faulting due to crustal extention followed immediately after the peak metamorphism to the closure temperature of biotite.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.303-312
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• 2007

There is still a controversy going on about how to model energy dissipation due to breaking over frequency domain. In this study, we unveil the exact structure of energy dissipation using stochastic wave breaking model. It turns out that contrary to our present understanding, energy dissipation is cubically distributed over frequency domain. The verification of proposed model is conducted using the acquired data during SUPERTANK Laboratory Data Collection Project (Krauss et al., 1992). For further verification, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of Conoidal wave over a beach of uniform slope, and obtain very promising results from the viewpoint of a skewness and asymmetry of wave field, usually regarded as the most fastidious parameter to satisfy.