Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.12652/Ksce.2017.37.2.0333

An Experimental Study of Sand Beach Profile Evolution under Regular Waves Corresponding to Storm and Normal Conditions  

Choi, Junwoo (Korea Institute of Civil Engineering and Building Technology)
Roh, Min (Korea Institute of Civil Engineering and Building Technology)
Publication Information
KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research / v.37, no.2, 2017 , pp. 333-342 More about this Journal
Abstract
In order to understand the mechanism of the cross-shore evolution of storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) profiles of a sandy beach, the vertically two-dimensional laboratory experiment was performed with a movable bed. The beach profiles and free surface motion were measured under monochromatic wave conditions evolving the storm and normal beach profiles. The observation was conducted in the surf zone during the alternation of the two wave conditions to reach its quasi-equilibrium state. The sandbar-crest and trough and the steep berm were evolved due to the plunging breakers in the storm case, and the bar-trough was decayed due to the spilling breakers in the normal case. From the measurements, it was found that the storm wave case was in an erosion state and the normal wave case was in an accretion state. The strong undertow, which is a dominant factor of the offshore migration mechanism, was developed in the storm wave case, and the weak undertow was developed in the normal wave case. The skewness and the asymmetry of the nonlinear wave motion, which is a dominant factor of the onshore migration mechanism, was measured similarly in both cases.
Keywords
Laboratory movable-bed experiment; Beach profile evolution; Surfzone; Undertow; Skewness; Asymmetry;
Citations & Related Records
연도 인용수 순위
  • Reference
1 Alsina, J. M., Caceres, I., Brocchini, M. and Baldock, T. E. (2012). "An experimental study on sediment transport and bed evolution under different swash zone morphological conditions." Coastal Eng., Vol. 68, pp. 31-43.   DOI
2 Arcilla, A. S., Roelvink, J. A., O'Connor, B. A., Reniers, A. and Jimeniz, J. A. (1994). The Delta flume '93 experiment, Proc. Coastal Dynamics '94, ASCE, pp. 488-502.
3 Baldock, T. E. and Huntley, D. A. (2002). "Long-wave forcing by the breaking of random gravity waves on a beach." Proc. R. Soc. Lond. A, Vol. 458, pp. 2177-2201.
4 Baldock, T. E., Manoonvoravong, P. and Kim, S. P. (2010). "Sediment transport and beach morphodynamics induced by free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups." Coastal Eng., Vol. 57, pp. 898-916.   DOI
5 Baldock, T. E., Alsina, J. A. and Caceres, I. (2011). "Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves, wave groups and random waves." Coastal Eng., Vol. 58, pp. 214-227.   DOI
6 Battjes, J. A. (1974). "Surf similarity, paper presented at 14th Int." Conf. on Coast. Eng., Coastal Eng. Res. Counc., Copenhagen, Denmark.
7 Battjes, J. A. and Janssen, J. P. F. (1978). "Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves, paper presented at 16th Int." Conf. on Coast. Eng., Coastal Eng. Res. Counc., Hamburg, Germany.
8 Fernandez-Mora, A., Calvete, D., Falques, A. and de Swart, H. E. (2015). "Onshore sandbar migration in the surf zone : New insights into the wave-induced sediment transport mechanisms. Geophysical research letters, Vol. 42, No. 8, pp. 2869-2877.   DOI
9 Grasso, F., Michallet, H., Barthelemy, E. and Certain, R. (2009). "Physical modeling of intermediate cross-shore beach morphology : Transients and equilibrium states." J. Geophys. Res., 114, C09001.
10 Goda, Y. (2006). "Examination of the influence of several factors on longshore current computation with random waves." Coastal Eng., Vol. 53, pp. 157-170.   DOI
11 Hattori, M. and Kawamata, R. (1980). "Onshore-offshore transport and beach profile change." Proc. of the 17th Int. Conf. on Coast. Eng., ASCE, Sydney, Australia, pp. 1175-1193.
12 Henderson, S. M., Allen, J. S. and Newberger, P. A. (2004). "Nearshore sandbar migration predicted by an eddy-diffusive boundary layer model." J. Geophys. Res., 109, C05025.
13 Hsu, T.-J., Elgar, S. and Guza, R. T. (2006). "Wave-induced sediment transport and onshore sandbar migraton." Coastal Eng., Vol. 53, pp. 817-824.   DOI
14 Kraus, N. C. and Smith, J. M. (1994). "SUPERTANK Laboratory data collection project." Technical report CERC-94-3, U.S. army engineer waterways experiment station, Vicksburg, MS, Vol. 1-2.
15 Hoefel, F. and Elgar, S. (2003). "Wave-induced sediment transport and sandbar migration." Science, Vol. 299, pp. 1885-1887.   DOI
16 Kirby, J. T., Ozkan-Haller, H. T. and Haller, M. C. (2006). "Seiching in a large wave flume." Proc. of Int. Conf. on Coast. Eng., San Diego, CA, pp. 1159-1171.
17 Komurcu, M. I., Ozolcer, I. H., Yuksek, O. and Karasu S. (2007). "Determination of bar parameters caused by cross-shore sediment movement." Ocean Eng., Vol. 34, pp. 685-695.   DOI
18 Kraus, N. C. and Mason, J. M. (1993). "Discussion of 'Prediction of storm/normal beach profiles' by Robert A." Dalrymple (March/ April, 1992, Vol. 118, No. 2). J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., Vol. 119:4, No. 468, pp. 468-470.   DOI
19 Kriebel, D. L., Dally, W. R. and Dean, R. G. (1986). "Undistorted froude model for surf zone sediment transport." Coastal Eng., Vol. 20, pp. 1296-1310.
20 Lippmann, T. C., Brookins, A. H. and Thornton, E. B. (1996). "Wave energy transformation on natural profiles." Coastal Eng., Vol. 27, pp. 1-20.   DOI
21 Liu, W. and Tajima, Y. (2014). "Image-based study of breaking and broken wave characteristics in front of the seawall." Proc. of 34th Int. Conf. on Coast. Eng., ASCE, Seoul.
22 Marino-Tapia, I. J., Russell, P. E., O'Hare, T. J., Davidson, M. A. and Huntley, D. A. (2007a). "Cross-shore sediment transport on natural beaches and its relation to sandbar migration patterns : 1." Field observations and derivation of a transport parameterization, J. Geophys. Res., 112, C03001.
23 Reniers, A. J. H. M. and Battjes, J. A. (1997). "A laboratory study of longshore currents over barred and non-barred beaches." Coastal Eng., Vol. 30, pp. 1-22.   DOI
24 Marino-Tapia, I. J., O'Hare, T. J., Russell, P. E., Davidson, M. A. and Huntley, D. A. (2007b). "Cross-shore sediment transport on natural beaches and its relation to sandbar migration patterns : 2." Application of the field transport parameterization, J. Geophys. Res., 112, C03002.
25 Martinez, M. L., Intralawan, A., Vazquez, G., Perez-Maqueo, O., Sutton, P. and Landgrave, R. (2007). "The coasts of our world : Ecological, economic and social importance." Ecol. Econ., Vol. 63, No. 2-3, pp. 254-272.   DOI
26 Michallet, H., Cienfuegos, R., Barthelemy, E. and Grasso, F. (2011). "Kine-matics of waves propagating and breaking on a barred beach." Eur. J. Mechanics B/Fluids, Vol. 30, pp. 624-634.   DOI
27 Schaffer, H. A. (1993). "Infragravity waves induced by short wave groups." J. Fluid Mech., Vol. 247, pp. 551-588.   DOI
28 Rouse, H. (1937). "Nomogram for the settling velocity of spheres." National Research Council, Washington, DC. 57-64.
29 Ruessink, B. G., Walstraa, D. J. R. and Southgate, H. N. (2003). "Calibration and verification of a parametric wave model on barred beaches." Coastal Eng., Vol. 48, pp. 139-149.   DOI
30 Ruessink, B. G., Kuriyama, Y., Reniers, J. H. M., Roelvink, J. A., Walstra, D. J. R. (2007). "Modeling cross-shore sandbar behavior on the timescale of weeks." J. Geophys. Res., 112, F03010.
31 Srisuwan, C., Work, P., Karasu, S. and ozolcer, I. (2015). "Beach profile model with size-selective sediment transport. I : laboratory experiment and sensitivity study." J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., Vol. 141, No. 2, 04014032.   DOI
32 Stive, M. J. F. and deVriend, H. J. (1994). "Shear stresses and mean flow in shoaling and breaking waves." Proc. of the 24th Int. Conf. on Coast. Eng., ASCE, pp. 594-608.
33 Svendsen, I. A. (1984a). "Wave heights and set-up in a surf zone." Coastal Eng., Vol. 8, pp. 303-329.   DOI
34 Svendsen, I. A. (1984b). "Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone." Coastal Eng., Vol. 8, pp. 347-365.   DOI
35 Tajima, Y. and Madsen, O. S. (2003). "Modeling near-shore waves and surface roller." Proc. of the 2nd Conf. of Asian and Pacific Coasts, Paper no. 28.
36 Thornton, E. B. and Guza, R. T. (1983). "Transformation of wave height distribution." J. Geophys. Res., Vol. 88, No. C10, pp. 5925-5938.   DOI
37 Wang, P. and Kraus, N. C. (2005). "Beach profile equilibrium and patterns of wave decay and energy dissipation across the surfzone elucidated in a large-scale laboratory experiment." J. Coastal Research, Vol. 21, No. 3, pp. 522-534.   DOI
38 Yoon, H.-D. and Cox, D. T. (2010). "Large-scale laboratory observations of wave breaking turbulence over an evolving beach." J. Geophys. Res., Vol. 115, C10007.   DOI
39 Williams, J. J., Buscombe, D., Masselink, G., Turner, I. L. and Swinkels, C. (2012). "Barrier dynamics experiment (BARDEX) : Aims, design and procedures." Coastal Eng., Vol. 63, pp. 3-12.   DOI
40 Wright, L. D. and Short, A. D. (1984). "Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches : A synthesis." Mar. Geolo., Vol. 56, pp. 93-118.   DOI
41 Choi, J., Lee, J.-I. and Yoon, S. B. (2012). "Surface roller modeling for mean longshore current over a barred beach in a random wave environment." Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 28, No. 5, pp. 1100-1120.
42 Berni, C., Barthelemy, E. and Michallet, H. (2013). "Surf zone cross-shore boundary layer velocity asymmetry and skewness : an experimental study on a mobile bed." J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, Vol. 118, pp. 2188-2200.   DOI
43 Cazenave, A., Lombard, A. and Llovel, W. (2008). "Present-day sea level rise : A synthesis." C. R. Geosci., Vol. 340, No. 11, pp. 761-770.   DOI
44 Choi, J., Kirby, J. T. and Yoon, S. B. (2015). "Boussinesq modeling of longshore currents in the SandyDuck experiment under directional random wave conditions." Coastal Eng., Vol. 101, pp. 17-34.   DOI
45 Cienfuegos, R., Barthelemy, E. and Bonneton, P. (2010). "Wavebreaking model for Boussinesq-type equations including roller effects in the mass conservation equation." J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., Vol. 136, No. 1, pp. 10-26.   DOI
46 Elgar, S. (1987), "Relationships involving third moments and bispectra of a harmonic process" IEEE Trans. Acoust. Speech, and Signal Processing, ASSP-35, 12.
47 Dally, W. R. and Brown, C. A. (1995). "A modeling investigation of the breaking wave roller with application to cross-shore currents." J. Geophys. Res., Vol. 100, No. C12, pp. 24,873-24,883.   DOI
48 Dalrymple, R. A. (1992). "Prediction of storm/normal beach profiles." J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., Vol. 118:2, No. 193, pp. 193-200.   DOI
49 Dean, R. G. (1973). "Heuristic models of sand transport in the surf zone, in Engineering Dynamics of the Coastal Zone." First Australian Conf. on Coast. Eng., Sydney, 208-214.