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Modeling of Wave Breaking in Spectral Wave Evolution Equation  

Cho, Yong-Jun (서울시립대 토목공학과)
Ryu, Ha-Sang (㈜세일종합기술공사)
Publication Information
Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers / v.19, no.4, 2007 , pp. 303-312 More about this Journal
Abstract
There is still a controversy going on about how to model energy dissipation due to breaking over frequency domain. In this study, we unveil the exact structure of energy dissipation using stochastic wave breaking model. It turns out that contrary to our present understanding, energy dissipation is cubically distributed over frequency domain. The verification of proposed model is conducted using the acquired data during SUPERTANK Laboratory Data Collection Project (Krauss et al., 1992). For further verification, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of Conoidal wave over a beach of uniform slope, and obtain very promising results from the viewpoint of a skewness and asymmetry of wave field, usually regarded as the most fastidious parameter to satisfy.
Keywords
stochastic wave breaking model; spectral wave evolution equation; cubically distributed energy dissipation coefficient; wave skewness; wave assymetry;
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Times Cited By KSCI : 1  (Citation Analysis)
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