• 한국해양학회지
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.133-140
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• 1984

Oceanographic applications of digital filters are studied with special emphasis on the convolution filter with Hamming window and the recursive filters. Convolution filters are simple to understand and easy to design but not efficient for a long data set. Recursive filters, despite of the complexities, have advantages on economy and filter characteristic. By means of digital filtering technique we find that the alongshore wind at Pusan and the sea surface temperature at Gampo in summers during 1973 to 1979 are negatively correlated at low frequencies (periods longer than 5 days) but not so at high frequencies.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.156-161
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• 1993

Structures built in the coastal area often cause unexpectedly severe shoreline change on the adjacent beaches. Therefore, beach evolution is one of the most important problem in the coastal engineering. Beach evolution in the coastal area consisted of wave transform model and sediment transport model. Ebersoale's elliptic mild slope equation which considered the effect of combind wave refraction and perline and Dean's one line theory for the sediment transport model were used in this study. Kwangan beach was selected as study area and field observations were done. Numerical simulation for beach evolution in the Kwangan beach was performed and shoreline change predictions were suggested as results.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.108-115
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• 1991

This paper aims at the elucidation of the characteristics of longshore current profile after wave breaking. Wave breakers are always accompanied by complex turbulent process, wave energy losess occur and the mean water level also varies due to the gradient of radiation stress. These with other factors result in the development of longshore currents. Longshore currents have relations to the alongshore sand transport and to the diffusion of contaminants in nearshore region, thus the understanding and elucidation of them are very important from the engineering point of view. Using the calculated results, the factors such as lateral mixing cofficients, bed shear stress. wave angle. wave steepness and bottom slope. which are influencing the longshore current profile. are examined. Also, by comparing the results of longshore currents with the experimental data obtained by other investigators, the procedure proposed in the present study is shown to be valid.

• Journal of the Korean association of regional geographers
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.851-864
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• 2004

A coastal dune field, located at Kimnyong-Wolchung beach in Jejudo, Korea, extends alongshore for about 4 km, with dunes extending inland about 6 km. Detailed geomorphological analysis of the area was carried out by using areal photography and Landsat images. Samples were collected across two transects, and physical and chemical properties are analyzed to detect the variation of both properties depending on distance form the beach. Paleosol layers found during the field trip suggest that dune emplacement is episodic. Radiocarbon dates from nearby Hyupjae beach indicate that dunes have been formed during the late Holocene by the disturbance of calcareous materials.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.47-56
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• 2001

A numerical model for practical use based on the 1-line theory is presented to simulate shoreline changes due to construction of offshore structures. The shoreline change model calculates the longshore sediment transport rate using breaking waves. Before the shoreline change model execution, a wave model, adopting the modified Boussinesq equation including the breaking parameters and bottom friction term, was used to provide the longshore distribution of the breaking waves. The contents of present model are outlined first. Then to examine the characteristics of this model, the effects of the parameters contained in this model are clarified through the calculations of shoreline changes for simple cases. Finally, as the guides for practical application of this model, several comments are made on the parameters used in the model, such as transport parameter, average beach slope, breaking height variation alongshore, depth of closure, etc. with the presentation of typical examples of 3-dimensional movable bed experimental results for application of this model. Here, beach change behind the offshore structures is represented by the movement of the shoreline position. Analysis gives that the transport parameters should be taken as site specific parameters in terms of time scale for the shoreline change and adjusted to achieve the best agreement between the calculated and the observed near the structures.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.55 no.9
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• pp.645-655
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• 2022

Recently rip currents are frequently observed in the summer at the beaches located along the East Sea coast. To understand the generation types of rip currents occurred at the Ease Sea beaches, numerical simulations of rip currents over the topographies of the Sokcho, Naksan, Gyeongpo, Mangsang beaches were performed by using a Boussinesq-type wave and current model, FUNWAVE. The offshore and nearshore topographically-controlled rip currents and the transient rip currents were well reproduced due to the alongshore non-uniformities involving the phase interaction effects. This study looked over the generation types of rip currents to occur at the beaches with complicated field bathymetries.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.251-269
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• 2022

The process-based XBeach model has numerous empirical parameters because of insufficient understanding of hydrodynamics and sediment transport on the nearshore; hence, it is necessary to calibrate parameters to apply to various study areas and wave conditions. Therefore, the calibration process of parameters is essential for the improvement of model performance. Generally, the trial-and-error method is widely used; however, this method is passive and limited to various and comprehensive parameter ranges. In this study, the Generalized Likelihood Uncertainty Estimation (GLUE) method was used to estimate the optimal range of three parameters (gamma, facua, and gamma2) using morphological field data collected in Maengbang beach during the four typhoons that struck from September to October 2019. The model performance and optimal range of empirical parameters were evaluated using Brier Skill Score (BSS) along with the baseline profiles, sensitivity, and likelihood density analysis of BSS in the GLUE tools. Accordingly, the optimal parameter combinations were derived when facua was less than 0.15 and simulated well the shifting shape, from crescentic sand bar to alongshore uniform sand bars in the surf zone of Maengbang beach after storm impact. However, the erosion and accretion patterns nearby in the surf zone and shoreline remain challenges in the XBeach model.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.247-257
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• 2022

In order to investigate the generations of rip currents modulated with the tidal elevations at a mega-tidal beach at the West Sea coast, numerical simulations of rip currents over the topography of the Daecheon beach were performed by using a Boussinesq-type wave and current model, FUNWAVE. The mega-tidal coast includes rocky outcrops (i.e., reefs) lying over or under the water surface according to the tidal elevations in the offshore and nearshore bathymetry. The offshore topographically-controlled rip currents were well reproduced due to the alongshore non-uniformities transformed by the tide-modulated topography. This study addressed the generation types of rip currents to occur at the mega-tidal coast with the tide-modulated outcrops and reefs.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.667-678
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• 1997

A primitive equation numerical model driven only by $M_2$ tide is used to examine role of tide in the temperature and velocity fields of Deukryang Bay. The numerical model reproduces several features of the observational temperature fields such that the isotherms tend to be parallel to the coast in the bay, and the colder water exists at the right hand side in the bay. The horizontal temperature and velocity fields in the model are dominantly influenced by bottom topography. The model also shows that the surface colder water in the bay is accompanied by strong-alongshore current during the flood tide. An investigation for baroclinicity in the bay by additional numerical experiment indicates that the baroclinirity in velocity field is very weak. The model, however, did not reproduce a stratification in the observation, implying that the model needs to add other semi-diurnal components such as $S_2,\;O_2\;or\;K_2$ tides to $M_2$ tide.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.92-102
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• 2004

In this paper, an analytical solution of calculating the excess temperature field due to a point heat source is presented in the presence of spring-neap modulation of convective alongshore flow. The basic form of the solution is identical to that given by Jung et al. (2003) but the convective term in the exponential kernel function is extended and a spring-neap variation in the horizontal eddy diffusivity is newly introduced. A set of calculations have been performed to examine the sensitivity of the heat build-up to the change in current fields and turbulent dispersion. Results indicate that the excess temperature field is confined within the tidal excursion distance, while the excess temperature field beyond the distance is mainly controlled by the horizontal diffusion. The heat build-up within the distance is considerably affected by the spring-neap variation in the horizontal eddy diffusivity; the relatively high excess temperature more than 1$^{\circ}C$ is extended further when the eddy diffusivity has spring-neap modulation.