• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권9호
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• pp.1320-1330
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to classify Y generation according to Hip Hop mania elements and to investigate the differences in psychological characteristics (self-consciousness, egocentrism) and buying behavior of Hip Hop fashion among the classified groups. The subjects were 500 middle and high school students living in Seoul and Kyonggi area.46g data were analysed using cluster analysis, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple range test. The results were as (follows : As a result of classifying Y generation with Hip Hop mania element including behavior and attitude aspect they were classified into three groups; Hip Hop mania group, Hip Hop interesting group, Hip Hop uninterested group. Among groups there were significant differences in public and private self-consciousness, self-centeredness, evaluative criteria of Hip Hop fashion, information sources and clothing store patronage. Hip Hop Mania group showed significantly higher level in both public and private self-consciousness, thus the members of the group were so egocentric in their thinking and behavior. When they purchased Hip Hop fashion, they regarded both aesthetic appreciation and practicality as import information.

• 복식
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• 제60권6호
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• pp.62-73
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• 2010

The purpose of this thesis is to make an effective Korean Hip Hop culture and suggest a new style direction in classifying the types of fashion styles of the Hip Hop musicians and studying their features. They are surveyed in stage costumes, hair styles, make-ups, accessaries, and total fashion styles, and then classified into Normal Hip Hop Style, Casual Hip Hop Style, Sporty Hip Hop Style, Mix & Match Hip Hop Style, and Classical Hip Hop Style. The results of the study are as follows: First, Normal Hip Hop Style is the most general and universal Hip Hop fashion type. They wear clothes in bigger sizes and exaggeratively. And also a cornrow hair style, a tattoo, and a piercing represent marked individualities. Second, Casual Hip Hop Style is more active and practical than Normal Hip Hop Style. Their blue jeans and T-shirts express more simple and polished style. And also they make variable fashion styles and hair styles such as a cornrow hair and a buzz cut. Third, Sporty Hip Hop Style is from B-boy's clothes when they do active and violent break dancing. As NBA basketball games are popular, they wear training clothes, breeches, big T-shirts, and jumpers & caps on embroidered sport team's names. Their hair style is short or natural and also they have caps or hoods to present active mood. Fourth, Mix & Match Hip Hop Style is existed variable elements in one style. The typical type of this style is jacket & blue jean. It is characterized by dress shirts, neck ties, blue jeans, sneakers, beards, and moustaches. Fifth, Classical Hip Hop Style is from African Americans. They try to express assimilated appearance of Anglo-Saxons. They wear black suits, shoes, hats, and sunglasses to represent formality and elegance. In the above results, there are variable fashion styles in one Hip Hop music genre and also fashion style is changed with musical inclination. This thesis is an important guide to produce variable and creative Hip Hop fashion styles in Korean Hip Hop culture.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.416-429
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• 2011

Most of precedent studies related to hip hop culture and fashion, which have been conducted till now were progressed under only theoretical background of hiphop, not the changed status of hiphop currently. Practical studies explaining the status of hip hop in popular culture, especially, the area of popular fashion are insufficient. Therefore, this study was conducted by focusing on cultural characteristics and musical characteristics by the stream of period, for which concept hip hop is accepted to people currently and which effect it makes on the area of fashion. Especially, the study was progressed by dividing periodical background into before and after the 2000s because there was the most noticeable change for the genre of hip hop in that period. Because of the appearance of 'Alternative hip hop' which is a sub-genre of hip hop music, hip hop music was changed to be more popular. Also, hip hop fashion also showed big changes. Hip hop fashion before 2000s had showed poor conditions, resistance, complex and alienation of them by their fashion. On the other hand, hip hop fashion after 2000s also showed popular characteristics because of high-level environment and social status. This study intended to understand and grasp hip hop as a kind of cultural situation coexisted by many-sided characteristics as well as redefine the changed concept and contents of new hip hop currently.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.493-504
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• 2022

This study aims to gain a deeper understanding of the fashion styles of underground rappers in China and South Korea. Due to rappers' fashion influence on modern fashion trends, research on rapper fashion has been conducted steadily in the field of apparel. Qualitative research methodologies including literature research and in-depth interviews were the primary techniques used to solve the research questions. In-depth interviews were conducted with 10 Chinese underground rappers and 10 Korean underground rappers to reveal and explore their fashion style and view of fashion. As a result, the participants' fashion styles were categorized into four styles: authentic hip-hop fashion style, popularized hip-hop fashion style, easy sports casual style, and trendy street style. Rappers from both countries consider that their identity as rappers can be demonstrated through their hip-hop fashion style. The influence of hip-hop culture and the popularity of rap music differs between China and Korea. It affects not only the rapper's musical characteristics, but also their fashion style. While Korean underground rappers' fashions style is trendier, Chinese underground rappers' fashions style displays stronger characteristics of hip-hop fashion. Due to the public's negative view of rappers, some Korean underground rappers intentionally try to hide their identity by wearing a fashion style that differs from the authentic rapper image. Understanding the fashion styles of underground rappers in Korea and China is expected to assist in predicting future hip-hop culture and rapper fashion trends.

• 복식
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• 제65권4호
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• pp.61-75
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• 2015

This research aims to analyze the prep-hop fashion, which is an original look created through the convergence of the hip-hop and preppy look, and identify the design characteristics of the prep-hop fashion. The style mixes the fashion of what was traditionally a lower-class look with the upper class. The design characteristics are as follows: First, the prep-hop fashion expresses slim, casual and sophisticated look with items and silhouettes. The items are categorized into jackets, shirts and pants. The prep-hop jackets provides a casual look to its wearer unlike the jackets of preppy or conservative looks. Slim suits show different meanings and features depending on the changes in the time and culture despite the continued use of the items. Second, the colors of the prep-hop fashion include overall basic colors used in the preppy look and hip-hop fashion. The aesthetic values of the colors express pleasant color images different from the conservative and resistant images expressed in the preppy and hip-hop style before the convergence, respectively. Third, the materials and patterns are expressed in a unique way to fulfill the emotional needs that are considered vital to contemporary fashion. The materials in the prep-hop fashion extend the ranges of usage by using the materials with unexpectedness broken out of general range of usage. While the use of the patterns is one of the methods to demonstrate that the prep-hop fashion is created by the convergence between hip-hop fashion and preppy look, the meaning concludes pleasantness and casualness different from the past. Fourth, the prep-hop fashion is mainly composed of hip-hop fashion accessories, which express the authenticity of the hip-hop fashion to protect the non-mainstream characteristics. The design characteristics of the prep-hop fashion pursue the individuality of the contemporary fashion, which lacks originality due to commercialization. The development of the prep-hop fashion, as a new form that combined contrasting genres and trends, is expected to develop more publicly.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2011년도 제44차 학술발표회
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• pp.95-95
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• 2011

가방지 중에서 고급 브랜드의 핸드백은 근래의 세계적인 경기불황에서도 꾸준한 소비층을 형성하면서 매출 상승을 유도하고 있는데, 기존 40~50대 시니어들을 위한 전통적인 레자 또는 자카드 문양직물의 고유한 디자인 뿐만 아니라 20~30대의 젊은 층을 위한 다양한 칼라의 프린팅 문양 직물도 많이 개발되고 있는 실정이다. 본 연구는 잠재권축사와 고강력PET를 이용하여 이소재 복합 ATY를 제조하고 제직 및 날염을 통해 다양한 프린팅 문양을 발현할 수 있는 가방지용 직물 개발에 관한 것이다. 최근의 캐주얼 및 힙합룩은 물론, 베이직 정장 차림까지 트렌디한 우븐 백이 코디 아이템 1호로 떠오르고 있는데, 가방용 브랜드 중"레스포색"과 "키플링" 등이 급상승 기류를 타며 국내에 빠르게 정착하고 있으며 수입 브랜드인 경전상사의 "롱샴"도 폴딩백으로 인기를 누리고 있다. 핫 이슈인 스포티즘을 떠올리지 않더라도 최근의 변화는 소비자의 니즈를 적극 수용하려는 패션잡화 업체들의 움직임을 대변하고 있으며, 직물형태의 백이 합리적인 가격에서나 가볍고 편리한 실용적인 부분 모두 소비자의 니즈를 채워주기에 충분하고, 트렌드가 부각된 가방일수록 시즌에 따라 스피디하게 구매가 이뤄지고 있다는 장점이 있어서, 최신 트렌드의 디자인과 재료 효과를 극대화한 제품이 다수 선보이고 있다. 본 연구에서는 이러한 다양한 트렌드 디자인의 문양 발현을 위한 직물을 위해 PET Base의 잠재권축사와 PET 고강력사를 사용하였는데, 이때 사용되는 잠재권사는 Effect사로써 온도, Air압 등의 공정요소 제어를 통해 Soft한 touch을 위한 잔루프를 발현하도록 하였으며, PET 고강력사는 Core사로 사용함으로써 잠재권축사의 강도를 보강하여 가방지로써 요구되는 강력을 가질 수 있도록 하였다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.213-235
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to recognize the meanings of plastic language by analyzing the sign of the Graffiti depicted in western modern costumes. And the scope of this study was focused on analysing the costumes from 1980's when the Graffiti was recognized as one of the plastic arts. Graffiti was an unprofessional and covert desire of self-expression, having a close relation with our lives. It was used in diverse ways with repeating creation, development, and extinction, from expressing liveliness in Old Stone Age through describing symbolic meaning in the modern art. Graffiti means rude, humorous, or political writing and pictures on the walls of buildings. It's different from the delicate letters or pictures to inscript on the tree or rocks. Being introduced as part of Post-modernism in the 1970s, Graffiti was acknowledged as a new artistic action with the culture of hip-hop. In addition the Graffiti, the expression of sign was reflected artist's internal consciousness with boundless sign. The sign is something to transmit message from the nonverbal point of view, the oldest sign was the sign for petition or the expression of something as a primitive form. Sign can be defined as a framework of life inherited as a practice from the primitive age long past. Graffiti was cited as a concrete example of sign, theme of this paper, and general understanding on sign expression was pursued through free work which all artists present with essential and positive ways using signs, their own languages, and life style. The result of this study was summarized as follows: Since the end of the 20th century, a lot of fashion designers have represented symbolic images, such as letter and signs, as purely personal ways of expression through the western costumes. It was found that fashion designers of the Graffiti whose free work style from inherent inner consciousness might provide a basic framework to search for complex signs of modem costumes naturally understood life itself as plastic art, and sublimated human inherent desire and their inner world through their works.

• 복식
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• 제66권4호
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• pp.94-110
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to delve into the identity of the swag style which has diversified into various forms by exploring the phenomenon, formative characteristics and the internal values of the swag style in modern fashioin. This study discusses the concept and the socio-cultural meanings of swag from the perspective of Jean Baudrillard's hyper-reality, and a form of existence. The classifies the swag fashion styles into parody, hip hop and collage-type mix-and-match. Expressive characteristics of the swag look in modern fashion are as follows. First, the swag look utilizes the parody technique. In the mid-2000s, the look parodied brand logos as a form of self-mocking and active self-derision toward cheap imitations. Second, the swag look borrows from the expressive factors of the hip-hop style. Born as a sub-culture based on music, hip-hop has become a way of life, as its nature became multi-cultural and trans-cultural while its fashion style gained popularity globally after the 1980s. Third, the swag look barrows from the pop-type collage form as it mixes-and-matches costume items based on the expressive characteristics of hip hop, and this can be seen through items being used in new, non-formative and free styles. Comic aesthetics is revealed in parodied expression, hip-hop factors and collage-style mix-and-match. Swag as a hyper-reality manifests itself in various natures: humorous nature, negative nature and deconstructive nature through reflection and re-enactment of reality, transmutation and distortion of reality, and absence of reality respectively. However, it does not have a binding nature, which is the norm for subcultures. This characteristic, in combination with it having internal lightness, strong meaning of communication, and a sharing of self-contentment, distinguishes itself from the general meanings of existing parody fashion, hip-hop fashion and collage fashion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.116-127
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• 2002

The hip-hop fashion of the nineteens is just as important in hip-hop as in rapping, breaking, or graffitiwriting to young people. Hip-hop fashions major influences range from martial-arts moves, to street-gang uniforms and paraphernalia. Hip-hop fashion grew and evolved with the subculture. The identification with street-gang culture is important to hip-hop in general and still set the pace for hip-hop fashion. There are things that are necessary fashion components for each segment of hip-hop life. So even prisons are now selling prison clothes. Explaining the look, The rawest street element is a jail element, so the strongest statement is a uniform with shirts and trousers that match perfectly, like a jail piece. Insiders can detect the away of gang and prison culture on the iconography of seemingly innocuous brands. Hip-hop glam is part of an evolution of hip-hop style. Rap's gone luxe, and it is women who are leading the high-fashion charge. They wear in diamonds and fur. Now it is a very glam. Now, many brands are upping their marketing activities through a focus on their women's lines in advertising, and featuring hot celebrities. There is also a lot of rethinking of looks going on. Sexy and tight is emerging as the style of choice in this market and fabrications are becoming more important, as designers refine and upgrade their women's line. The clothes of hip-hop glam were the ordinary with the extraordinary: Designer fur and leather with athletic team jerseys, Nike sneakers, diamond bracelets and mall brands like Guess and Fubu. The hip-hop musician's sporty hip-hop looks has amply young people. The hip-hop looks of baggy jeans, oversized shirts and rugged outerwear have become a part of mainstream fashion. Hip-hop fashion has the characteristics of being sporty. In the 90s, Military look has got one of the fashionable hip-hop fashion style. It does not have inner symbolic meaning or ideology but it only represents a fashion trend and revival fashion. Not only fashion designer but also hip-hop musician selected the trend for hip-hop fashion style.