• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.41-45
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• 2010

Emulsion body cleansing systems containing high levels of occlusives have recently been developed such as using insoluble crystalline hydroxy waxes, insoluble crystalline surfactant structures, encapsulated particles and smectite clay. In this study, moisturizing effect of various occlusives such as petrolatum and triglycerides was researched in emulsion body cleansing systems. The experiment shows that petrolatum has less moisturizing capacity in emulsion body cleansing systems than triglycerides. In "leave-on" products such as lotion and cream formulations, the moisturizing capacity of petrolatum is more than that of triglycerides, but in "wash-off" emulsion body cleanser of this research, different results appeared. Emulsion body cleansing systems contained high levels of anionic and amphoteric surfactants, therefore petrolatum has more solubility and less deposited amount into the skin during washing process than triglycerides.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.436-442
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• 2008

Hydroxyproline and Pro-Hyp dipeptide are the digestive products of collagen hydrolysate called collagen peptide. Some suggested that collagen peptides could improve aged or damaged skins, however, the effects of collagen peptides on the skin have not been known. In this study, we investigated the effects of digestive products of collagen peptides, hydroxyproline and Pro-Hyp dipeptide on skin quality using the UV-damaged dorsal skin of hairless mouse as a model system. Female SKH hairless mice were pre-irradiated with UV for 7 weeks, and then hydroxyproline, Pro-Hyp dipeptide were orally administered for 7 weeks with UV irradiation. Wrinkle formation (by replica image), skin elasticity, barrier status (by TEWL, transepidermal water loss), epidermis thickness, and biophysical changes in the stratum comeum (by hematoxylin & eosin staining) were examined. With the oral peptide treatment, effects such as skin barrier maintenance, anti-skin thickening, and recovery of the stratum corneum were observed. These results indicate that oral intake of collagen peptides may have beneficial effects on damaged skin cells.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.229-235
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• 2015

Skin aging is the phenomena finally expressed on the skin surface and related to the changes in the microstructure of the skin texture. Which is resulted in wrinkle formation and uneven tone of skin and so on. In this study, the synergy effect of Cedrol and a collagen-derived peptide in type III collagen synthesis was evaluated by in vitro test. The physiological skin state of 22 female volunteers was measured after using the cosmetics for 4 weeks. Results showed that Cedrol and a collagen-derived peptide had the excellent synergy effect in type III collagen synthesis. The cosmetics improved skin microrelief, star configurations, skin gloss, skin tone, hydration and elasticity except skin lightening. In conclusion, this study proved that Cedrol and collagen-derived peptide had the synergy effect of type III collagen synthesis in the cell level and cosmetics with those was improved skin aging in human volunteer test.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Applied Pharmacology
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• 2005.04a
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• pp.65-79
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.38 no.4
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• pp.915-921
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• 2021

In this study, we designed pantothenic acid (PA) loaded solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) for enhanced skin penetration of PA that is used for moisturizing agent in cosmetics with hydrophilic property. SLNs were prepared using various lipids and surfactants. PA loaded SLNs were fabricated using double emulsion method. The fabricated PA loaded SLNs assessed particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential, loading capacity. Skin penetration study was conducted using artificial skin tissue originated from human epidermis as one of the reconstructed human epidermis models. The mean particle size and zeta potential of SLNs ranged from 192.15 nm to 369.87 nm and -21.39 mV to -40.55 mV, respectively. The loading efficiency and loading amount of PA loaded SLNs were ranged from 44.36% to 57.16% and 12.60% to 16.36%, respectively. The results of penetration demonstrated that all SLNs improved PA skin penetration. In addition, the amount of PA from SLNs were approximately 3.8 - 8.8 times higher than that from PA solution. Therefore, the fabricated SLNs demonstrated the enhancment of skin penetration of PA. Particularly, the SLN, which used glyceryl behenate and Span 60, showed optimal skin penetration of PA.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.251-257
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• 2021

ln this study, natural extracts extracted from cypress sapiens, a natural material, were investigated as materials that could protect skin aging caused by ultraviolet rays, and experiments were conducted on the synthesis of filaggrins that make up the natural moisturizing factor of the skin, the synthesis of pro-colagen, a fibrous protein, which plays an important role in moisturizing the dermis, and elastin, which is an enzyme that decomposes collagen. As a result, cypress ethanol extract (COE) was a dependent inhibitor to collagenase and elastase, inhibiting the synthesis of filaggrin and the expression of MMP-1 for exfoliated cells damaged by ultraviolet rays. Therefore, it is estimated that ethanol extract will have the effect of delaying wrinkles and as a functional cosmetic material that inhibits skin aging convergence. Based on this study, we would like to further study the mechanism of the synthesis of filaggrin on the suppression of expression of MMP, which is the anti-wrinkle effect.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.2 s.57
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• pp.81-88
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• 2006

Amino acid complex was made with the composition of amino acids quite similar to that of stratum corneum on the skin. In order to evaluate the efficacy of amino acid complex on the skin as an active cosmetic ingredient, we measured cytotoxicity. TIMP-1 expression, moisturizing effect and the amount of horny substance. In cytotoxicity assay, amino acid complex did not show any cytotoxicity. In moisturizing effect test using corneometer, it showed very good moisturizing effect. In TIMP-1 mRNA assay using RT-PCR, moo acid complex showed the increase of TIMP-1 expression, suggesting that amino acid complex have anti-wrinkle effect. Therefore, amino acid complex may be useful as an active ingredient for anti-aging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.381-388
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• 2019

Recently, the importance of individual skin characteristic is emphasized for customized beauty products. There are many studies on the concept of the syndrome differentiation, related to individual cosmetics in Korean Medicine. However, skin characteristic according to Yin deficiency syndrome (YDS), which is associated with aging, are yet to be clarified. The objective of this study was to evaluate the skin characteristic and questionnaire of female with YDS compare to with non-YDS. 218 healthy females between 40 and 59 years of age were assessed for the skin hydration, elasticity, brightness (L^* value), redness (a^* value), pore, pigmentation, wrinkle, and sebum by Corneometerr^®, Cutometerr^®, and Janus lll. Independent t-test showed lower hydration, lower elasticity, and higher redness in the YDS group compared to the non-YDS group (all p < 0.05). There was significant difference on the facial fever, insomnia, decreased amount of urine, and skin sensitive checklist. These results suggested that using the questionnaire associated with YDS and skin characteristic could separate skin types and apply to customized beauty products.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.237-242
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• 2012

In this study, the skin moisturing effect and stability of cream containing L. cuneata G. Don extract (ethyl acetate fraction) were evaluated. The skin hydrating effect of the cream containing extract was 1020% higher than the placebo cream, and the TWEL of the cream containing extracts was decreased to $7.7g/m^2h$ compared to the control ($10.2g/m^2$) and placebo cream ($8.9g/m^2$). The pH, viscosity, and absorbance were measured under the 4, 25, 37, $45^{\circ}C$ and the sun light during the 12 weeks. The pH change between cream containing extract and placebo cream did not show the significant difference under the 4, 25, 37, $45^{\circ}C$ except for the sun light. Both creams showed high decrease (about 59%) of viscosity at $45^{\circ}C$. However, there was no significant change under other conditions. The absorbance of the cream containing the extract and the placebo cream was decreased similarly at all conditions. This decrease in absorbance was relatively small compared to the decrease of absorbance of the extract in ethanol solution under the sun light (Fig. 7). In addition, any change in color or smell of the cream was not observed during the 12 weeks. Also physical changes as creaming and cohesion were not shown. These results indicate that the cream containing L. cuneata extract has the skin moisturizing effect and is relatively stable. Therefore, it is suggested that the ethyl acetate fraction of L. cuneata extract could be applicable to cosmetics as a new cosmetic material with its antioxidative and antibacterial activities reported previously.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.43-50
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• 2008

Ceramides, a constituent of stratum corneum lipids, play a crucial role in the formation and maintenance of the epidermal permeability barrier. As in many other skin disorders, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis show decrease and transformation of the ceramides. The application of ceramide has been demonstrated to be efficient in the repair of these skin disorders. Nevertheless, natural ceramides are still too expensive and small in quantity to be used as a cosmetic ingredient. Although a lot of pseudo-ceramides have been developed and on the market until now, those pseudo-ceramides did not fully meet the consumer's needs, therefore, there is still a demand for a novel pseudo-ceramides. We synthesized a novel pseudo-ceramide BPC-16 from 2-(2-amino-ethylamino)-ethanol(AEEA), which was characterized by structures having both amide bonds and hydroxyl groups as hydrophilic units, as well as two long alkyl chains. We formulated emulsion with BPC-16, cholesterol, stearic acid, and other components to make an emulsion. These emulsion showed a typical optical anisotropy on cross-polarized microscopy. This 'Maltese cross' appearance is a characteristic figure observed in concentric lamellar emulsion under cross-polarized microscopy. In cytotoxicity assay using MTT in monolayer and three dimension(3D) cell culture, a BPC-16 showed only negligible cytotoxicity up to the effective concentration for barrier repair and moisturization(less than 10 mM). In the measurement of TEWL, this BPC-16 showed significant recovery of water-retaining properties when it was topically applied to either SDS-induced dry skin or normal skin compared to that of base cream. This novel pseudo-ceramide BPC-16 showed as effective in skin barrier repair and moisturization as natural ceramides.