• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.231-245
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• 2023

In the cosmetics industry, it is important to develop new materials for functional cosmetics such as whitening, wrinkles, anti-oxidation, and anti-aging, as well as technology to increase absorption when applied to the skin. Therefore, in this study, we tried to optimize the nanoemulsion formulation by utilizing response surface methodology (RSM), an experimental design method. A nanoemulsion was prepared by a high-pressure emulsification method using Glabridin as an active ingredient, and finally, the optimized skin absorption rate of the nanoemulsion was evaluated. Nanoemulsions were prepared by varying the surfactant content, cholesterol content, oil content, polyol content, high-pressure homogenization pressure, and cycling number of high-pressure homogenization as RSM factors. Among them, surfactant content, oil content, high-pressure homogenization pressure, and cycling number of high-pressure homogenization, which are factors that have the greatest influence on particle size, were used as independent variables, and particle size and skin absorption rate of nanoemulsion were used as response variables. A total of 29 experiments were conducted at random, including 5 repetitions of the center point, and the particle size and skin absorption of the prepared nanoemulsion were measured. Based on the results, the formulation with the minimum particle size and maximum skin absorption was optimized, and the surfactant content of 5.0 wt%, oil content of 2.0 wt%, high-pressure homogenization pressure of 1,000 bar, and the cycling number of high-pressure homogenization of 4 pass were derived as the optimal conditions. As the physical properties of the nanoemulsion prepared under optimal conditions, the particle size was 111.6 ± 0.2 nm, the PDI was 0.247 ± 0.014, and the zeta potential was -56.7 ± 1.2 mV. The skin absorption rate of the nanoemulsion was compared with emulsion as a control. As a result of the nanoemulsion and general emulsion skin absorption test, the cumulative absorption of the nanoemulsion was 79.53 ± 0.23%, and the cumulative absorption of the emulsion as a control was 66.54 ± 1.45% after 24 h, which was 13% higher than the emulsion.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.49-56
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• 2019

Pueraria thomsonii Benth. as a medicinal ingredient, has been traditionally used in Chinese medicine to treat fever, acute dysentery, diarrhea, diabetes, and cardiovascular disease. The effects of P. thomsonii flower on skin have not been reported yet. In this study, the whitening effect of P. thomsonii flower was verified using B16F1 melanoma cells and HS68 fibroblasts. P. thomsonii flower extract reduced melanin contents of B16F1 cells in a dose-dependent manner. To identify its active components, we analyzed P. thomsonii flower extract using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). As a result, we identified three major isoflavones of tectorigenin, tectoridin, and tectorigenin 7-O-xylosylglucoside. At a non-cytotoxic concentration, the three components also reduced melanin contents of B16F1 cells in a dose-dependent manner. The depigmentation effects were attributed to the reduced gene expression of tyrosinase and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). In order to elucidate another depigmentation mechanism, their effects on DKK-1, a fibroblast-derived depigmentation factor, was determined in HS68 cells. As a result, P. thomsonii flower extracts, tectoridin and tectorigenin 7-O-xylosylglucoside, reduced DKK-1 gene expression, while tectorigenin increased DKK-1 gene expression in a dose-dependent manner. These results suggest that tectorigenin can be used as an effective whitening agent that inhibit melanin synthesis in melanocytes and promote the secretion of depigmentation factor from fibroblasts.

• Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.145-148
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• 2006

Biological activities and application of Prunus sargentii Rehder were investigated. In the physiological activities, the electron donating ability (EDA) of ethanol extracts of Prunus sargentii Rehder was 85% in 100 ppm. SOD-like activity was inhibition about 50% in 1,000 ppm, it was gradual increased. As inhibitory effect of xanthine oxidase, it was more than 70% in 1,000 ppm and inhibitory effect of tyrosinase was a little low as 20% below 1,000 ppm.

• Korean Journal of Environmental Biology
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.30-35
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• 2008

In order to investigate whether or not CCD-986sk cell line can be affected by Korean Ecklonia stolonifera Okamura, we examined the MTT assay when we treated Korean Ecklonia stolonifera Okamura extract in CCD-986sk human fibroblast cell line. The sample were tested for cell proliferation activity by means of a modification of the MTT assay. Ecklonia stolonifera Okamura extract showed significantly strong cell proliferation activity at the range of from 6.25 mg $mL^{-1}$ to 1.56 mg $mL^{-1}$ compared with control group. And in order to search for inhibition agents of skin melanin formation, we tested for inhibition effect of melanin pigmentation of Korean Ecklonia stolonifera Okamura using Clone M-3 mouse melanocyte cell lines. when we treated the extracts of Ecklonia stolonifera Okamura to the mouse melanocyte cell lines, the sample showed a significantly little formation of melanin pigments compared with control group at the only range of 200 mg $mL^{-1}$. These results suggest that extract of Korean Ecklonia stolonifera Okamura may represents an excellent candidate for inhibition of melanin pigmentation and for protection of human skin aging at in vitro level.

• Journal of Convergence for Information Technology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.119-126
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• 2022

In this study, the antioxidant ability, anti-inflammatory ability and whitening effect of the extracted Grateloupia filicina under optimal conditions were confirmed. The useful substances of Grateloupia filicina were extracted with various ethanol aqueous solutions to measure DPPH, ABTS, and nitrite radical elimination capabilities, and the polyphenol and flavonoid contents were analyzed. When extracted with a 20% ethanol aqueous solution, the radical elimination ability was the best, and the content of polyphenol and flavonoids was also the highest. From this, it was confirmed that the 20% ethanol aqueous solution efficiently extracted the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory substances of Grateloupia filicina. Meanwhile, the cytotoxicity and anti-inflammatory properties of the Grateloupia filicina extract were confirmed using RAW 264.7 cell lines. Grateloupia filicina extract did not show toxicity at a concentration of 200 ㎍/mL, and showed NO production inhibitory capacity of 50% or more at this concentration. As a result, it was confirmed that the Grateloupia filicina extract can be used as a functional cosmetic raw material having antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

• KSBB Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.7-15
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• 2007

Extensive research was carried out for inhibition of melanin formation as development of whitening cosmetic ingredients. But degradation of melanin itself was not intensively pursued as development of cosmetics. In this study, novel melanin degradation enzyme was developed and characterized. Also this enzyme production process was optimized and formulation was tried using micro encapsulation technique.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.173-182
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• 2024

This study was designed to compare the effects on antioxidant, whitening, and anti-wrinkle improvement of 60% ethanol extracts from Trigonotis radicans var. sericea (TR) and Lactobacillus brevis-fermented T. radicans var. sericea (FTR). The total phenolics contents of TR was 18.6 mg/g, and FTR was 18.2 mg/g. The HPLC analysis confirmed more phenolic compounds were produced in FTR by bioconversion than in TR. The FTR showed higher 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity than TR. The results of the 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical cation decolorization assay, FTR and TR showed higher activity than BHT (positive control). The FTR (1.21-1.29 PF) showed higher antioxidant protection factor (PF) activity than the TR (1.15-1.22 PF) and showed higher tyrosinase, collagenase and elastase inhibitory activities. This results showed L. brevis -fermentation of Trigonotis radicans var. sericea changed the composition profile and has effects on antioxidant, whitening and anti-wrinkle improvement.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.29 no.7
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• pp.755-761
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• 2019

Kojic acid (KA) is produced by Aspergillus oryzae-sort of like mushrooms, which is commonly called as koji in Japan. KA is used as a chelation agent and a preservative preventing oxidative browning of fruits. KA also shows antibacterial and antifungal properties. Because KA stops the production of melanin by inhibiting tyrosinase in the biosynthetic pathway from tyrosine to melanin in skin, it has been applied as a skin lightening ingredient in cosmetics. Since some animal studies have shown that high amounts of KA had side effects such as in liver, kidney, reproductive, cardiovascular, gastrointestinal, respiratory, brain, and nervous system, more efficient KA derivatives are needed to be developed in order to safely apply as a skin lightening ingredient. A series of KA derivatives via conjugated with triazole by click reaction were synthesized and their in vitro tyrosinase inhibitory activities were evaluated. Most of all KA derivatives have shown in moderate tyrosinase inhibitory activities. In case of KA-hybrid compound, 1~3 have shown tyrosinase inhibitory activities about 50~10,000 times more effective tyrosinase inhibitor compared to KA itself. Specifically, the $IC_{50}$ value of KA-hybrid compound, 2 was $0.0044{\pm}0.74{\mu}M$ against tyrosinase. It is about 10,000 times more effective tyrosinase inhibitor compared to KA itself ($IC_{50}=45.2{\pm}4.6{\mu}M$).

• Journal of Radiation Protection and Research
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.93-98
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• 2011

We induced the activation of melanocytes in the epidermis of C57BL/6 mice by ultraviolet-B (UV-B) irradiation, and observed the effect of an herbal preparation (HemoHIM, HH) on the formation, and decrease of UV-B-induced epidermal melanocytes. C57BL/6 mice were irradiated by UV-B $80\;mJ{\cdot}cm^{-2}$ ($0.5\;mW{\cdot}sec^{-1}$) daily for 7 days, and HH was intraperitoneally, orally or topically applied pre- or post-irradiation. For the estimation of change of epidermal melanocytes, light microscopic observation with dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) stain was performed. Split epidermal sheets prepared from the ear of untreated mice exhibited 13~15 melanocytes${\cdot}mm^{-2}$, and one week after UV irradiation, the applied areas showed an increased number of strongly DOPA-positive melanocytes with stout dendrites. But intraperitoneal, oral or topical treatment with HH before each irradiation interrupted UV-B-induced pigmentation and resulted in a marked reduction in the number of epidermal melanocytes as compared to the number found in UV-B-irradiated, untreated control skin. The number and size of DOPA-positive epidermal melanocytes were also significantly decreased in intraperitoneally injected or topically applicated group after irradiation with HH at 3rd and 6th weeks after irradiation. The present study suggests the HH as inhibitor of UV-B-induced pigmentation, and depigmenting agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.17-23
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• 2005

We had previously reported that Selina (selina-4(14), 7(11)-dien-8-one) was isolated from methanol extract of Afractylodes rhizome and has strong whitening activity in B16 melanoma cells. In this report, we demonstrated its action mechanism in melan-a cells, non-tumorigenic melanocytes. We also investigated the clinical efficacy of cosmetic preparation containing Selina. Selina reduced the melanin synthesis of Melan-a cells by $50\%$ at a concentration of $10 {\mu}g/mL$ without any apparent cytotoxicity. We also found that the treatment of cells with Selina decreased tyrosinase activity by $60\%$ at a concentration of $10 {\mu}g/mL$ but Selina was not a direct inhibitor of tyrosinase activities. To elucidate the action mechanism of Selina, we investigated the changes in mRNA and protein level of tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2 using RT-PCR and western blotting, respectively. As a result, the mRNA and protein level of tyrosinase were markedly reduced at $10 {\mu}g/mL$ of Selina without any effect on TRP-1 and TRP-2. These results suggest that Selina exerts its whitening effect mainly through regulating expression of tyrosinase. A 7 week-clinical trial using formulation containing $0.2\%$ selina-4(14), 7(11)-dien-8-one with 20 volunteers resulted in statistically significant whitening effect (p < 0.05), without any adverse effect. Based on these results, Selina (selina-4(14), 7(11)-dien-8-one) can be s useful and safe ingredient for the cleanness and brightness of skin.