• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.154-165
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• 2006

In the present study, a numerical model using Boussinesq equation is set up to predict the interacted equilibrium between waves and their induced currents in the occurrence of breaking waves over an underwater shoal, and the numerical results are compared with results of existing hydraulic experiments. A sensitivity analysis has been done to find out appropriate values of breaking wave parameters with the result (regular wave case) of Vincent and Briggs (1989)’ experiment. Then the numerical model is applied to the irregular wave cases of the experiment and the hydraulic model test of Ieodo which is a natural undersea shoal. The results show that a strong current forms in the wave direction at the downstream side of the shoals, causing the attenuation of wave heights there. The calculated wave heights generally show a similar pattern with the measured data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.83-95
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• 1990

It can be assumed that the ocean waves consist of many independent pure sinusoidal components which progress in arbitrary directions. To analyze irregular sea waves, both the spectrum method and the individual wave method have been used. The spectral approach is valid in the region where the water depth is deep and the linear property of velocity distribution is predominent, while the individual wave analysis method in the region where the water depth is shallow and the wave nonlinearity is significant. Therefore, to investigate the irregular wave transformation from the deep water to the shallow water region, it is necessary to relate the frequency spectrum which is estimated by the spectrum analysis method to the i oint probability distribution of wave height, period and direction affected by the boundary condition of the individual wave analysis method. It also becomes important to define the region where both methods can be applied. This study is a part of investigation to establish a systematic approach for analyzing the irregular wave transformation. The region where the spectral approach can be applied is discussed by earring out the experiments on the irregular wave transformation in the two-dimensional wave tank together with the numerical simulation. The applicability of the individual wave analysis method for predicting irregular wave transformation including wave shoaling and breaking and the relation between frequency spectrum and joint probability distribution of wave height and period are also investigated through the laboratory experiment and numerical simualtion.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.276-284
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• 2011

The rip current occurred at Haeundae beach was numerically investigated under directional random wave environment. The numerical simulation was performed using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation model, FUNWAVE which is capable of simulating nearshore circulation since it includes the effect of wave-induced momentum flux and horizontal turbulent mixing. The results of numerical simulation show the time-dependent evolution of the wave-induced nearshore circulation system (including rip current) that are caused by nonlinear transformation of directional irregular waves due to unique topography of Haeundae. From the results, it was found that rip current is well generated and developed where relatively lower wave height and relatively deeper water depth along the longshore direction, and sudden and strong events of rip current were observed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.296-308
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• 2001

A fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation of Wei et al. is finite differenced by Adams predictor-corrector method. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the domain and wale breaking mechanism is included in the equation. The generated waves are found to be good and the corresponding wale heights are very close to the target values. The shoaling of solitary wave and transformation of regular wave over submerged shelf were simulated successfully. The characteristics of breaking mechanism was identified through the numerical experiment and the results of two dimensional wave propagation test over the spherical shoal showed the importance of nonlinear wave model.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.294-300
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• 2006

Implicit numerical scheme using fractional step method and FCT is used to improve the computational efficiency of WAM. Square wave test and simulation of typhoon generated waves are conducted to verify the numerical scheme. The applied scheme shows much less numerical diffusion and due to the implicit character of the scheme much larger time steps can be used without numerical instability. For typhoon MAEMI, comparison between the numerical results and the measured data shows good agreement.

• Ecology and Resilient Infrastructure
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 2014

In this study, a numerical simulation technique for coastal area where wave and current interactions are observed is proposed. Considering the spatial scale of coastal area and the coastal processes such as wave, current, shoaling, wave breaking, and inundation processes, boussinesq equation model is used. A depth-integrated transport model based on the consistent assumption with the boussinesq equation model is used for the prediction of solute transport. To solve the equations, finite volume method with an approximate riemann solver is used. The proposed model is applied to a coastal area and reasonable computational results are obtained.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 1991

A wave prediction model of DP type with shallow water effects is composed. An jntercomparison study of the deep water wave models has been made to clarify the capacity of this model which has source functions by Incur and propagation scheme by Gadd. It is shown that the growth rate of wave energy is rapid and. for asymmetrical wind fields. this model behaves well. In spite of various response pattern for the wind fields the energy distribution gives reasonable agreements with those of other models.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2011.02a
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• pp.59-59
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• 2011

파랑의 전파와 변형에 대한 연구에는 수심방향으로 적분한 2차원방정식인 완경사방정식과 Boussinesq 방정식을 기반으로 한 수치모형을 이용한 연구가 최근까지 가장 활발하게 진행되어 오고 있다. 그러나 실제 구조물의 설계에는 2차원 수치모형에서 고려할 수 없는 수심방향 유속에 기인한 정확도의 문제로 인해 구조물의 형상과 재원을 설계하기 위한 정교한 수치모형실험이 어려워 주로 수리모형실험에 의존해 왔다. 수리모형실험은 실제 현상을 가장 잘 재현해낼 수 있어 신뢰성이 매우 높지만 다양한 실험을 수행하기가 어렵고 많은 시간과 비용이 소요되는 단점이 있다. 이에 따라 최근 수심방향으로 완전한 운동방정식인 Navier-Stokes 방정식을 푸는 3차원 수치모형에 대한 연구가 활발히 진행되고 있다. 이론적으로 매우 우수한 모형이긴 하나 정확도 높은 결과를 얻기 위해서는 매우 조밀한 격자를 필요로 하기 때문에 아직까지 막대한 계산시간이 필요하다는 단점이 있으나 컴퓨터 기술이 급격한 속도로 발전하고 있어 Navier-Stokes 방정식 모형의 적용 가능성은 계속 높아지고 있다. 파랑변형을 다루는 수치모형실험을 수행할 때 외부조파를 사용할 경우 구조물이나 지형에 의해 반사되어 나온 파랑이 조파지점에 도달할 때 실험영역으로 재 반사되는 문제가 발생한다. 이를 해결하기 위해 내부조파기법의 개발에 대한 연구가 필수적이었으며, 자유수면변위를 변수로 사용하는 모형의 경우 그 연구가 매우 활발하게 진행되어 왔다. 한편, Navier-Stokes 방정식 모형의 경우 자유수면변위를 변수로 사용하는 2차원 모형에 비해 상대적으로 연구가 미흡하였다. 본 연구에서는 기존의 연직 2차원 Navier-Stokes 방정식 모형에 사용된 연속방정식에 질량 원천항을 추가하는 내부조파기법을 도입하여 3차원 수치모형에서 고립파를 내부조파하고, 급경사에서의 고립파의 처오름 및 처내림 현상을 수리모형 실험결과와 비교 및 분석하였다. 수치모형은 Navier-Stokes 방정식을 엇갈림 격자체계에서 계산하는 동수압 모형으로서, Two-step projection 기법을 사용하는 유한차분모형을 사용하였다. 본 수치모형은 난류의 해석을 위해서 상대적으로 큰 에디(eddy)만을 고려하는 SANS(spatially averaged Navier-Stokes) 방정식을 계산하는 LES(large-eddy-simulation) 기반의 수치모형으로, 난류 모델링을 위해 Smagorinsky LES 모형을 사용한다. 또한, 압력장의 계산을 위해 Bi-CGSTAB 기법을 이용하여 Poisson 방정식의 해를 구하였으며, 자유수면 추적을 위하여 2차 정확도의 VOF(volume-of-fluid) 기법을 사용하였다. 수치모형실험이 전체적으로 수리모형실험에서 관측한 파랑의 처오름 및 처내림 현상을 잘 재현하고 있는 것으로 나타났으며, 정량적인 비교를 통해 수치모형의 성능을 검증하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.349-356
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to review and overcome the limits of the existing design wave model applied to such waters as those located inside bays or near islands where the impact of wind influenced waves are more dominant, due to the nature of topographic isolation, than the influence of direct waves coming from the open sea. Although the existing model for an inside bay design wave is excellent for considering wind factors and very adaptable to topographically complicated areas compared to other models, it is difficult to show the wave diffractions and reflections caused by large scale structures or topographic features in the region. The study examined the various methods capable of taking into account wave diffraction, the angle of wave reflection, and changes in water depth. As a result of applying the modified design wave model to the target situation (inside bay or near island areas), it was found that the reliability of the design wave height around marine structures was improved, compared to the existing models. Therefore, it is fair to predict that the new model could provide more accurate design waves in the design of marine structures.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.146-150
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• 1996

The waves are most important dynamical factors for the analyses of structural stability and topographical changes on coastal engineering field. However, wind-generated waves are very irregular in shape and transformed through refraction, diffraction and shoaling when they propagate into shallow water where bottom topography and water depth vary significantly. Recently, Vincent and Briggs (1989) reported hydraulic model experiments for the transformation of monochromatic and directionally-spread irregular waves passing over a submerged elliptical mound. They concluded that for the case of combined refraction-diffraction of waves by a shoal, the propagation characteristics of the irregular and equivalent regular wave conditions can be vastly different. On the irregular wave transformation have been made theoretical and numerical studies for several years. Although theoretical and laboratory studies on wave transformation have progressed considerably, field measurement and comparison of numerical results with related theories are still necessary for the prediction of the phenomena in reality. In this study, field measurement of both incident and transformed waves in Youngil Bay were made using various kinds of equipments, and numerical computations were made on the transformed frequency spectra of large waves propagating over the shoal using Chae and Jeong's (1992) elliptic model. It is shown that this model results agree very well with field data, and thus the applicability of the model is now validated.