• Title/Summary/Keyword: 파랑변형

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EVP Models for Wave Transformation in Regions of Slowly Varying Depth (EVP방법(方法)을 이용한 완경사(緩傾斜) 영역(領域)에서의 파랑변형(波浪變形) 수치모형(數値模型))

  • Oh, Seong Taek;Lee, Kil Seong;Lee, Chul Eung
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.12 no.3
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    • pp.231-238
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    • 1992
  • Error vector propagation method is applied to the elliptic mild slope equation in order to reduce the computation time. Results from the elliptic, parabolic, and hyperbolic models are compared with experimental data for an elliptic shoal. Also, results of the elliptic and hyperbolic models are compared with experimental data for a detached breakwater. As a result of applying this model. it is concluded that the present model satisfactorily reduces the computation time compared with other numerical models. In the accuracy of solutions, there are some oscillations but the trend compares well with other models.

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Higher Order Parabolic Wave Equations (고차 포물형 파랑 근사식)

  • Seo, Seung-Nam;Lee, Dong-Young
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.19 no.3
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    • pp.205-212
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    • 2007
  • Parabolic approximation wave models based on $Pad{\acute{e}}$ approximants are analyzed in order to calculate wave transformation. In this study a $Pad{\acute{e}}(2,2)$ parabolic approximation model is developed to increase the accuracy of computation in comparison with the existing models. Numerical studies on a constant sloping bed show that the new model proves to allow for much more successful treatment of large angles of incidence than is possible using the previously available models.

Parabolic Wave Equations Based on $Pad{\acute{e}}$ Approximants - Model Applicable to Incidence Angle $80^{\circ}$ ($Pad{\acute{e}}$ 근사에 의한 포물형 파랑 근사식 - 입사각 $80^{\circ}$까지 적용 모형)

  • Seo, Seung-Nam
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.19 no.4
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    • pp.375-384
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    • 2007
  • Parabolic approximation wave models based on $Pad{\acute{e}}$ approximants are presented of which the $Pad{\acute{e}}$(15, 15) is shown to be applicable to incidence angle $80^{\circ}$ in comparison with the exact solution of a constant sloping bed. After introducing a systematic way of the derivation to the parabolic wave equation, parabolic models are obtained in this study upto the 15th order and several numerical results are given to wave transformation in a constant sloping bed.

Numerical Simulation of Solute Transport in Coastal Areas (해안지역에서의 용존성 물질의 이송확산 거동 수치모의)

  • Kim, Dae-Hong
    • Ecology and Resilient Infrastructure
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    • v.1 no.1
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    • pp.1-7
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    • 2014
  • In this study, a numerical simulation technique for coastal area where wave and current interactions are observed is proposed. Considering the spatial scale of coastal area and the coastal processes such as wave, current, shoaling, wave breaking, and inundation processes, boussinesq equation model is used. A depth-integrated transport model based on the consistent assumption with the boussinesq equation model is used for the prediction of solute transport. To solve the equations, finite volume method with an approximate riemann solver is used. The proposed model is applied to a coastal area and reasonable computational results are obtained.

Comparison of PCGM and Parabolic Approximation Numerical Models for an Elliptic Shoal (타원형천퇴에 대한 PCGM과 포물형근사식 수치모형비교)

  • 서승남;연영진
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.6 no.3
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    • pp.216-225
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    • 1994
  • By use of laboratory experiment data set for an elliptic shoal by Berkhoff et al. (1982), both accuracy and Performance tests of numerical results between PCGM (Preconditioned Conjugate Gradient Method) and PA(Parabolic Approximation) are compared. Although both results show good agreement with the experimental data the PA model gives better reproduction of the relatively high amplitudes in the section 4-5 downwave of the shoal, in comparison with the PCGM. The PA model has been proved to be a useful tool for predicting wave transformationsin large shallow water region, but it can be applied only to the case of negligible reflection. On the other hand, there is a need to improve the computational efficiency of the PCGM model which is a finite difference scheme directly derived from the mild slope equation and can handle reflection. By taking the results of th PA model as an input data of the PCGM, the CPU time can be reduced by about 40%.

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Nonlinear Dynamic Analysis of Deep Water Riser by the Utilization on the Kinematic Constraint Condition (운동학적 제약조건을 이용한 심해저 라이저의 비선형 동적해석)

  • 홍남식
    • Journal of the Computational Structural Engineering Institute of Korea
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    • v.12 no.3
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    • pp.495-508
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    • 1999
  • 변형된 라이저의 단위 접선벡터상의 운동학적 제약조건을 적용하여 심해저 라이저의 비선형 동적해석을 행한다. 이 조건의 적용으로 자유도수를 감소시킬 수 있으며 심한 비선형성으로 인한 해의 발산 가능성을 제거할 수 있다. 라이저의 거대변형으로 인한 기하학적 비선형성과 비선형 경계조건이 고려된다. 또한, 비선형성이 포함되는 수동학적 하중이 조류와 파랑에 의해 발생하여 내부에 정상류가 흐르는 라이저관의 외벽에 작용하게 된다. 이 외에도라이저 자체의 축방향 변형조건을 고려한다. Galerkin의 유한요소 근사화와 시간증분자를 적용하여 유한요소에 대한 평형 메트릭스 방정식을 유도하고, 수치해석을 위한 알고리즘을 제안하며 API 보고서의 결과와 비교함으로써 제안된 모델이 검증된다. 또한, 기하학적 비선형성으로 인한 영향을 조사하였다.

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Shallow Water Waves around Tokdo (독도 인근해역에서의 천해파)

  • 황연호;전인식;오병철;심재설
    • Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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    • 2001.10a
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    • pp.117-121
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    • 2001
  • For the effective development or preservation of Tokdo, the natural environments in the ambient sea area should be well investigated. The wave deformations and wave breaking in the vicinity have much affected the bottom morphology of Tokdo as well as its ecological environment. The present study investigates the wave deformations and wave breaking through a numerical model. The final goal is to provide the fundamental wave data for the effective development or preservation of Tokdo in future. The extended mild slope equation was applied to Tokdo sea area for three different deep water wave conditions (S, SSE, NNE directions). The results showed that for the S and SSE directions the wave heights in the area between the east island and the west island were very low with the level of 1~2m, but for the NNE direction they appeared pretty high with 3~4m, In the sea area near the northwest of west island, the wave heights were low to be 1~3m for all three directions of deep water wave.

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Characteristics of Wave Breaker and Longshore Current in the Surf Zone (쇄파특성과 쇄파대내의 연안류)

  • 김경호
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.3 no.2
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    • pp.65-71
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    • 1991
  • Many investigations of wave deformation without currents have been carried out experimentally and theoretically but, studies treating the effect of longshore current on the wave deformation are few. It is thus necessary to evaluate the effect of longshore current on the wave deformation after breaking. In the paper the wave height attenuation. the wave direction and the variation of mean water level are calculated in which effects of longshore current are involved. To assess the effect of longshore current on the wave deformation, factors above with longshore current are compared with them without longshore current by using calculated results.

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A Parabolic Wave Model Applicable to Large Area (광역에 적용가능한 포물선형 파랑모형)

  • 이정렬
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.8 no.3
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    • pp.246-255
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    • 1996
  • A mild slope equation of parabolic type is derived with the revision of the 2nd order differential term and a new approach for the application to large area is presented. The replacement with long waves can overcome the numerical difficulty due to small waves over the system of large grid sizes. No matter how long the replaced wave length is, the refraction and shoaling are maintained by toeing its own wave speed and group velocity, respectively. However, the diffraction effect is modified by means of Eikonal equation. The developed numerical model was applied to the shoal of Ito and Tanimoto (1972) to yield the satisfactory results.

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Large-Scale Experiments on the Wave-Induced Liquefaction of Sandbed (파랑작용에 의한 모래지반의 액상화에 관한 대형 수리모형실험)

  • Kang, Yoon-Koo;Suzuki, Kojiro
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.21 no.3 s.76
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    • pp.26-32
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    • 2007
  • A series of large-scale experiments were carried out in order to examine wave-induced liquefaction in a loosely packed sandbed, its afterward high densification and liquefaction by oscillatory pore pressure. The experiments were conducted in a Large Hydro-Geo Flume that can nearly solve the problems of scale effects of the sandbed, and the 50% sieve diameter of sand was 0.2 mm. The generation of residual pore pressure and its afterward high densification which had observed by Takahashi et al. (1999) in a wave flume experiment using fine sand with the size of 0.08 mm. As a result, the relative density of the sandbed after high densification was increased up to 79% and liquefaction by oscillatory pore pressure was not observed.