• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.75-84
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• 2009

The following research analyzed the sewing teaching of the tailored jacket shown in fashion textbooks, which are currently used in universities and educational organizations in the fashion industry. To analyze the sewing teaching of tailored jackets, we analyzed 35 textbooks in the market. Among them we used 14 textbooks which dealt with the patter formation method of tailored jackets, and cutting and sewing methods. First, the stitching direction and the location of attachment varied. The type of sticking tape and its position also differed, emphasizing the need to make an institutionalized education material which is based on the characteristic of the fabric and its silhouette. Second, controlling the ease length of the right side sewing princess line, or information about the shoulder line and sleeve line of the notch as not specifically shown in the textbooks. Furthermore, not many textbooks showed how to pull the lower part of the texture out of sight, nor did they explain why this needed to be done. Third, the lining is usually slightly larger than the outer texture of the clothing, as the lining is usually tugged in the sewing process, and this method makes the clothes more comfortable. The method of sewing the princessline $0.2{\sim}0.3cm$ outside the outer pattern was the most recommended. The center-back side was usually 2cm in activity measurements, but it turned out that a textbook which required ease treatment on the shoulder line did not do so on the lining material. The textbooks used in this research dealt only with how to manufacture a tailored jacket without full explanation about textures which could influence the manufacturing. The production method and process differed between different textbooks, showing the need to make a institutionalized education material. In a quickly-changing era where there is rapid change in the dressmaking procedure, we need to help students understand the process more easily through a formalized education process.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.588-596
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• 2015

This study aims to provide the basic reference necessary in improving the fitness of a ready-to-wear brand jacket through a research on the wearing conditions and preferences regarding a tailored jacket by body shape of the women in their 30s. The following results were drawn by implementing the research method of the self-administered type survey targeting 201 women in their 30s from August 14~28, 2014. First, the female consumers in their 30s preferred one button slim fit jacket when purchasing a tailored jacket and chose a close-fitting size. Second, the slim fit tailored jacket consumers preferred a jacket with some extra portion in the bust and hip areas but tightly fit in the waist area. Third, when purchasing a jacket under the ready-to-wear size system, the women with a triangle shape similar to a standard body silhouette had less instances of mending a jacket while the women with a big or small rectangle shape different from a standard body silhouette had more experiences of mending a jacket. Accordingly, it is expected of the manufacturers to increase the fitness satisfaction of the consumers by identifying the problems concerning the fitness and suggesting the improvement plans to produce a jacket of a good fitness reflecting the properties of different body shapes through such research on the wearing conditions and preferences regarding a tailored jacket by body shape of the women in their 30s.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권6호
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• pp.990-1001
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• 2009

본 연구는 지각자의 성별, 의복, 헤어스타일이 남성의 전문성 및 선호도의 시각적 평가에 미치는 영향을 조사하는데 그 목적이 있었다. 연구방법은 준실험방법이었으며, 실험설계는 $2\times8\times2$(지각자의 성별$\times$의복$\times$헤어스타일)의 요인설계를 사용하였다. 자극물은 20대 남성의 사진 16장이었다. 의복은 베이지색과 남색의 테일러드 칼라 재킷, 베이지색, 남색, 빨강색의 점퍼와 스웨터였고, 하의는 청바지를 착용하였다. 헤어스타일은 길이에 따라 짧은형과 중간형으로 구분하였다. 조사대상자는 서울지역의 남성 208명과 여성 223명이었다. 청바지와 함께 베이지색 스웨터를 착용하는 것은 지성적 이미지가 높게 보였고, 빨강색 점퍼의 착용은 지성적 이미지가 낮게 보였으며, 베이지색 재킷은 역능적 이미지가 낮게 평가되었다. 남성의 짧은 헤어스타일은 중간형 헤어스타일보다 전문성이 높게 평가되었다. 남자 지각자는 여자보다 짧은 헤어스타일을 더 선호하였으나 여자는 헤어스타일 선호도가 유사하였다. 여자는 테일러드 칼라의 재킷과 수티앵 칼라의 점퍼에 대한 선호도가 유사하였으나 남자는 재킷보다 점퍼의 선호도가 더 높았다. 베이지색 재킷에는 중간형 헤어스타일, 빨강 스웨터에는 짧은 헤어스타일이 전문성이 높게 평가되었다. 남자 지각자는 청바지에 수티앵 칼라의 점퍼를 착용한 것을 청바지에 테일러드 칼라의 재킷을 착용한 것보다 더 긍정적으로 평가함으로써 남자가 여자보다 옷차림에 대해 보수적인 태도를 나타냈다. 또한 청바지 차림에서는 점퍼를 입고 짧은 헤어스타일을 한 남자가 긍정적으로 평가되었고, 재킷을 입고 중간형 헤어스타일을 한 남자는 부정적으로 지각되었다. 결론적으로 베이지색 재킷에는 중간형 머리, 빨강 스웨터에는 짧은형 머리가 전문성이 높게 보였으므로 의복과 헤어스타일이 상호작용하여 전문성 평가에 영향을 준다고 할 수 있다.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2003년도 춘계학술대회
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• pp.34-34
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• 2003

본 연구는 체형의 특성이 현저히 나타나는 40~50대의 Plus-size 여성을 대상으로 체형의 특징이 고려된 치수체계에 대해 맞음새가 우수한 재킷을 개발하고, 이 원형을 토대로 하여 체형의 단점을 보완할 시각적 효과를 연구하기 위해 Plus-size에 해당하는 여성을 선정하여 수트(suit)를 제작한 후 착의 평가하여 Plus-size에 적합한 수트를 제안하는데 목적을 두고 있다. 결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 1. Plus-size 여성의 착용실태를 파악하기 위해 실시한 착용실태 조사는 판매자의 측면의 심층면접과 소비자 측면의 착장조사로 구분하여 조사하고 분석하였다. 착용실태조사 결과, Plus-size 여성은 의복구매시 맞음새와 편안함을 중시하고 상완부와 어깨의 두께, 가슴둘레와 복부의 비만등의 체형단점을 갖게 되므로 판매자측에서는 의복제도 시에 등품, 앞품, 상완부, 복부의 여유분을 고려하고 있었다. 시각적 효과로는 세미피트 스타일의 프린세스 라인과 허리선+20, 30cm의 재킷길이, 그리고 테일러드 칼라, 스테인 칼라, 라운드 네크라인이 판매자과 소비자의 양측면에서 선호되고 있었다. 2. Plus-size 여성의 체형에 맞음새가 우수한 재킷원형을 개발하기 위해 Plus-size 여성복의 재킷 원형 중 4종의 기존원형을 선정하고, 착의 피험자 3인을 대상으로 3차에 걸친 착의실험을 통해 연구 원형을 개발하고 평가단을 구성해 객관적인 평가 33문항에 대한 외관 관능검사를 실시하였다. 1) 가슴둘레 여유분을 8~9cm, 허리둘레 여유분을 6~7cm, 엉덩이둘레 여유분을 6~8cm로 적용하여 맞음새를 향상시켜 날씬해 보이는 효과를 높였다. 2) 진동깊이 계산식은 (B/10+10.5)+2cm 적용하고, 진동두께 계산식은 (B/8-1.5)+2cm를 적용함으로써 진동깊이와 진동두께의 편차가 작아짐으로 인해 소매부위와 진동부위의 맞음새를 향상시켰다. 3) 가슴둘레의 증가에 따라 등길이에 앞길이 치수를 증가시키는 계산식을 설정하여 앞가슴둘레의 맞음새를 향상시켰다. 4) Plus-size여성의 경우 허리부분의 신체적합성을 높이기 위하여 사이드 판넬(side panel)의 재킷원형으로 하였다. 앞 허리와 배 부분의 지방 침착이 크므로 앞 허리둘레 다아트 폭과 앞판 사이드 판넬(side panel) 솔기 다아트 폭을 작게 설정하고, 뒤판 사이드 판넬 솔기 폭을 크게 설정하였다. 5) 어깨끝점 사이길이는 다른 부위의 체지방 침착과 같이 비례적으로 증가하지 않으므로 표준체형에 비해 좁게 설정하였다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.159-165
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to develop Semantic Differential Scales with Tailored Jacket. Sixteen slides were made from selected Jacket which were representatives of four types of Jackets. The slides were shown to college students and graduate school students. The students were asked to describe their responses to each slide in Korean adjectives. In order to extract the representative and the frequency each adjective was calculated. As a results, 35 adjectives-elegant, graceful, neat, mature, slim, formal, natural, brisk, comfortable, etc-were selected. Therefore the Semantic Differential Scales composed of 35 pairs adjectives were developed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.569-580
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• 2015

The recent fashion market failed to satisfy the needs of female customers in their 30s who are demanding a slim jacket that makes the wearer look young and slim. Accordingly, the slim-fit jackets of domestic brands targeting the women in their 30s were collected to conduct look and movement fitting evaluations based on the standard somatotype, and a slim-fit tailored jacket prototype was developed based on the present findings. This research aims to increase the satisfaction level of the slim-fit jacket customers reflecting a variety of somatotypes of women in their 30s. The research process was developing jacket patterns fully reflecting the properties in terms of extra space and design lines for different somatotypes of women in their 30s based on the jacket pattern formulated through the advanced research, and then suggesting pattern design methods for the different somatotypes. In this sense, this research attempted to identify the problems concerning the slim-fit tailored jacket fitting for different somatotypes of women in their 30s. The main aim was to suggest ways to improve the customers' satisfaction level regarding the fit, and enable the manufacturers to produce a well-fitting jacket reflecting the peculiarities of each somatotype.

• 복식
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• 제66권5호
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• pp.99-112
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to examine the higher value-added characteristics of tailored jacket designs, which are major items of French luxury brands, in an effort to raise the competitiveness of domestic fashion designs. The characteristics of the jacket designs from the 1940s to the 1970s, the golden age of Haute Couture, were examined. Based on this, the characteristics of the higher value-added expressions of the luxury brands were established by analyzing the tailored jacket designs that appeared in the Paris collection after 2010. The results are as follows: the characteristics were categorized into 'traditional value expression,' 'conceptual value expression,' 'retro value expression,' and 'creative value expression.' Traditional value was expressed as the representation of the styles inherent to the golden age of the Haute Couture houses, and the status of the luxury brands with history was represented by equally arranging the size and characteristics of the elements of the designs related to jacket silhouette. Conceptual value was reestablished as contemporary identity into which the traditional ideology of the houses and the present designers' sentiments were grafted by developing the designs with the theme containing the identity of the past Haute Couture houses. Retro value was utilized as the strategy to differentiate the luxury brands with long history from contemporary products. Creative value was expressed as tailored jackets with new concepts of shape variation and usage conversion by combining creative sentiments with the high quality techniques of Haute Couture and appears to be able to create a new consumption market of luxury brands in the global fashion market.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.952-959
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• 2012

This study looks into the changes in collar patterns in tailored jackets with different numbers of buttons. The study discusses the pattern design method of tailored colors in 4 different styles, such as the effect of the number of buttons of tailored jackets on collar width and length, lapel width and length, and angle of lapel and overall balance in design. Through the first dress experiment, patterns were adjusted and corrected. The second dress experiment was conducted with the modified experimental clothes. The results of comparison and analysis are as follows. The 1 button tailored jacket was most preferred for its beautiful expression and overall balance of upper color and lapel when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The second most preferred one was the 2 button tailored jacket with lapel width of 8 cm, and the 3 button jacket showed relatively good balance when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The 4 button tailored jacket showed a bad balance in collar and button. Also, its overall silhouette was disappointing and thus was less preferred than others. For smaller number of buttons, the angle of lapel's break line increased, thus displaying a more refined and slim silhouette. On the other hand, the angle of lapel's break line decreased for greater number of buttons, thus displaying a dull and fat image. As a result, the jacket with many buttons was less preferred.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.183-196
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• 2015

This study aims to develop sleeve pattern of tailored jacket which shows seamlessly beauty of females in their twenties who have relatively smaller change of body compared people of other ages and has outstanding functional operation. So we selected a pattern of manufacturer who received highest score after evaluating wearing condition of three types of jacket in the industry, whose targets are career women in their twenties and then tested its appearance and functional operation of 6 experimental jackets with armhole depth of B/4 and B/4-1(cm) along with sleeve cap height of A.H/3, A.H/3+1, A.H/3+2. As a result, the pattern which has good result of external appearance evaluation were sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3+2 as well as sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3+1. The pattern of good result for movement adaptation were sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3 as well as sleeve with armhole depth of B/4 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3. So we could find that the larger is the armhole depth and height of sleeve, the better influence on adaptability of jacket it makes and that the smaller is the armhole depth and height of sleeve, the better influence on movement adaptability of jacket it makes. It has been proved that armhole depth of tailored jacket of females in their twenties doesn't affect significantly on its appearance when designing it but it makes good influence on movement adaptability when experimental clothing has armhole depth of B/4-1and that sleeve cap height of A.H/3 that is 1cm shorter than A.H/3+1 which is used in industry makes good influence on appearance and functional operation.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

This study investigated body type among women in their 20s and the development of prototypes for tailored jackets by body type in order to design clothes in consideration of an imbalance in body type caused by the popularity of portable devices such as smartphones and Netbooks. This study aims to create a design of jacket patterns by body type through both actual and virtual wear testing among women in their 20s, who are the major consumer of ready-made clothes and are very sensitive to size fit. This study will provide pattern information for the manufacture of jackets with a goal of securing the latest scientific body type information and establish the grounds for a research method in the manufacture of clothes. According to actual and virtual wear tests of four different body types, a significant difference was found in armhole circumference in most types because it was scanned with the arms slightly apart to prevent the armhole area from being missed during the 3D scanning. This has resulted in a slight distortion in measurements. To correct this problem, it is necessary to verify the precision of the body scanner and its program. In categories in which a large significant difference was found, it is necessary to test them against many subjects. In addition, it would be required to perform a further study on the 3D virtual wear system, which could be useful in the clothing industry.