• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.14 no.4
• /
• pp.274-281
• /
• 2002

Numerical analysis for the Bragg reflection due to a sinusoidally and a doubly-sinusoidally varying seabeds was performed by using a couple of ordinary differential equations derived from the Boussinesq equations. Incident waves are a train of cnoidal waves. The effects of the dispersion and shape of seabed were investigated. It is shown that the reflection of a sinusoidally varying seabed is enhanced by increasing the dispersion and the amplitude of a seabed. The reflection of waves over a doubly-sinusoidally varying seabed can also be enhanced by increasing the amplitude of seabed decreasing the difference of wave numbers of seabed components.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
• /
• v.35 no.1
• /
• pp.91-96
• /
• 2002

The present research describes the Bragg reflection of obliquely incident waves propagating over sinusoidally varying topographies. A numerical model based on the boundary element method is employed. Wave numbers providing Bragg reflection are calculated and compared to theoretical predictions. The reflection coefficients obtained from this model are also compared with those of the eigenfunction expansion method. A very good agreement is observed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.13 no.3
• /
• pp.189-194
• /
• 2001

The present study describes the Bragg reflection of monochromatic water waves propagating over a train of doubly-sinusoidally varying topographies. A numerical model based on the boundary element method is firstly verified by calculating reflection and transmission coefficients of waves over a trench. Calculated solutions are compared with those of the eigenfunction expansion method. The model is then used to simulated reflection of monochromatic water waves propagating over doubly-sinusoidally varying bottom topographies. Obtained reflection coefficients are compared with those of available laboratory measurements, those of the eigenfunction expansion method and the extended mild-slope equation. A reasonable agreement is shown.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
• /
• v.32 no.4
• /
• pp.447-455
• /
• 1999

In this study, the Bragg resonant of cnoidal waves propagating over a sinusoidally varying topography lying on a uniformly sloping beach is investigated. The governing equations derived from the Boussinesq equations are numerically integrated. The effects of fast varying terms and nonlinearity in reflection coefficients are also examined. Variation of reflection coefficient for different sloping beaches is studied. It is found that reflection coefficients are not strongly dependent on slopes of beaches.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
• /
• v.33 no.6
• /
• pp.805-814
• /
• 2000

A numerical model based on the boundary element method is employed to describe diffraction of monochromatic water waves due to varying topographies. The model is firstly verified by comparing obtained reflection and transmission coefficients of waves over a trench to those of the eigenfunction expansion method. The model is then used to investigate the Bragg reflection of waves over sinusoidally varying topographies. Calculated reflection coefficients are compared to available laboratory measurements and semi-theoretical results. A reasonably good agreement is observed.served.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
• /
• 1999.05a
• /
• pp.433-438
• /
• 1999

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
• /
• v.35 no.6
• /
• pp.677-684
• /
• 2002

In this study, a finite element model is employed to simulate the diffraction of waves caused by a change of water depths. The model is firstly applied to the estimation of reflection coefficients of monochromatic waves over a sinusoidally varying topography. Predicted coefficients are compared with those of the eigenfunction expansion method and laboratory measurements. A good agreement is observed. The model is then used to investigate effects of heights of bottom topography and number of ripples on variation of reflection coefficients of monocromatic water waves.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
• /
• v.36 no.3 s.134
• /
• pp.413-422
• /
• 2003

Numerical analysis for the Bragg reflection due to sinusoidally varying seabeds tying on a sloping beach was performed by using a couple of ordinary differential equations derived from the Boussinesq equations. Incident waves were wane groups generated by two short waves with slightly different phases. Effects of the slope of a seabed to the reflection were investigated in detail. It is shown that the reflection of long waves enhanced by increasing the slope of a seabed. This phenomenon caused by increase of wave amplitude due to increase of nonlinearity and shoaling.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
• /
• v.38 no.6 s.155
• /
• pp.429-438
• /
• 2005

In this study, a couple of ordinary differential equations which can describe random waves are derived from the Boussinesq equations. Incident random waves are generated by using the TMA(TEXEL storm, MARSEN, ARSLOE) shallow-water spectrum. The governing equations are integrated with the 4-th order Runge-Kutta method. By using newly derived wave equations, nonlinear energy interaction of propagating waves in constant depth is studied. The characteristics of random waves propagate over a sinusoidally varying topography lying on a sloping beach are also investigated numerically. Transmission and reflection of random waves are considerably affected by nonlinearity.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.44-51
• /
• 1996

The accurate calculation of run-up heights of long waves along the coastline is important in the view of engineering. In this paper the run-up heights of long waves are estimated by using the cnoidal wave theory which also covers both sinusoidal and solitary waves. However, the generation and the calculation of run-up heights of cnoidal waves are difficult both in laboratory and numerical experiments. In this study, the maximum run-up heights of cnoidal waves on steep slopes are computed by using the boundary integral equation model. It has been shown that the run-up heights of cnoidal waves are less than those of solitary waves, while they are larger than those of sinusoidal waves having the same wavelengths and heights. The variation of run-up heights of cnoidal waves is not a monotonic function of the wavelength. However, the run-up heights of cnoidal waves asymptotically approach that of a solitary wave as the wavelength approaches infinity. The calculated run-up heights agreed reasonably with experimental data.