• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2002.08a
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• pp.240-245
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• 2002

연안구조물을 설계하기 위해서는 구조물에 미치는 해양외력의 평가가 선행되어야 하며, 여러 가지 해양외력 중 구조물 건설위치에서의 파고, 즉 천해설계파는 제체중량, 제체형상, 피 복재의 중량 등의 결정에 직접적으로 영향을 미치기 때문에 가장 중요한 설계외력이다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2002.08a
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• pp.56-61
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• 2002

파의 굴절ㆍ회절은 포물형 근사식을 이용하여 상당히 높은 정도의 계산이 가능하다. 이 포물형 근사식은 규칙파 뿐만 아니라 불규칙파에도 적용할 수 있으며, 적당한 에너지 감쇠모형을 추가하면 쇄파까지도 고려할 수 있다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2007.05a
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• pp.576-580
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• 2007

수치기법이 복잡한 Boussinesq 방정식 대신 간단한 선형 Boussinesq 형태의 파동방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하면서도 완변수심상 지진해일 전파시 요구되는 물리적 분산효과를 정도 높게 고려할 수 있는 분산보정 지진해일 전파 유한요소모형을 개발하였다. 수심이 변하는 지형에서의 분산보정능력을 검증하기 위해 수중 원형천퇴상을 전파하는 Gaussian 형상의 가상지진에 대해 수치모의를 수행하고, 그 결과를 선형 Boussinesq 방정식에 의해 계산된 수치해와 비교하였다. 그 결과 개발된 유한요소모형이 수심이 변하는 지형에서도 상당히 정확하다는 것이 입증되었다.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2007.05a
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• pp.2130-2134
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• 2007

선형 Boussinesq 형태의 파동방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하는 능동적인 분산보정 지진해일 전파 유한 차분모형의 정확도를 향상시키기 위한 새로운 동시격자접속기법을 개발하였다. 이 격자접속기법은 공간에 대해 3차 보간식을 사용하므로 짧은 파에 대해서 보간에 따른 오차를 최소화할 수 있고, 시간에 대해 2차 보간식을 사용하기 때문에 기존 기법에 비해 더 정확한 값을 얻을 수 있다. 개발된 격자접속기법의 정확성을 평가하기 위해 수중 원형천퇴상을 전파하는 Gaussian 형상의 가상지진에 대해 격자접속기법을 적용하지 않고 계산한 결과와 격자접속기법을 적용하여 계산한 결과를 FUNWAVE에 포함되어 있는 선형화된 Boussinesq방정식에 의해 계산된 수치해와 비교하였다. 그 결과 개발된 동시격자접속기법의 우수함이 검증되었다.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.72-77
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• 2003

In this study, Mild slope equation is extended to both of rapidly varying topography and nonlinear waves in a Hamiltonian formulation. It is shown that its linearzed form is the same as the modified mild-slope equation proposed by Kirby and Misra(1998) And assuming that the bottom slopes are very slowly, it is the equivalent with nonlinear mild-slope equation proposed by Isobe(]994) for the monochromatic wave. Using finite-difference method, it is solved numerically and verified, comparing with the results of some hydraulic experiments. A good agreement between them is shown.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.260-265
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• 1994

A new set of elliptic wave equations describing the deformations of irregular waves on a large-scale current field in water of irregular depth is given, and using finite difference scheme an efficient numerical method is also presented. The elliptic equations are solved in a similar way to Initial value problem. This method is extensively used for the calculation of wave spectral transformation. and computation results agree very well with experimental data (Hiraishi, 1991). Finally numerical examples are presented concerning the interactions between waves and currents over a mildly sloping beach and also over a mound.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.296-308
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• 2001

A fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation of Wei et al. is finite differenced by Adams predictor-corrector method. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the domain and wale breaking mechanism is included in the equation. The generated waves are found to be good and the corresponding wale heights are very close to the target values. The shoaling of solitary wave and transformation of regular wave over submerged shelf were simulated successfully. The characteristics of breaking mechanism was identified through the numerical experiment and the results of two dimensional wave propagation test over the spherical shoal showed the importance of nonlinear wave model.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.158-168
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• 2001

A numerical model based on the wide-angle parabolic approximation equation is developed for the accurate simulation of the directional spreading and partial breaking of irregular waves. This model disintegrates the irregular waves into a series of monochromatic wave components, and the simultaneous calculations are made for each wave component. Then, the computed wave components are superposed to get the wave height of irregular waves. To consider the partial breaking of irregular waves in the computation the amount of energy dissipation due to breaking is estimated using the superposed wave height. The accuracy of the developed model is tested by comparing the numerical results with the experimental measurements reported earlier. In the case of non-breaking waves a considerable accuracy of the model is observed for both regular and irregular waves. On the contrary it is found that the accuracy is significantly degenerated for the case of breaking waves. Some analyses for the accuracy degeneration are presented.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.406-418
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• 2015

The present modified FUNWAVE-TVD model, which is a modification to its previous version 2.1, is applied to solitary wave propagation and is tested against the experiments of Vincent and Briggs(1989) and Luth et al.(1994). The eddy viscosity breaking scheme is used for comparison with the existing study in the case of breaking experiment. The symmetry of wave-induced current is maintained when the modified model is employed to Vincent and Briggs(1989) breaking experiment, but the symmetry of wave-induced current in previous model is not maintained. A better agreement with the breaking experimental data is obtained in the modified model using eddy viscosity breaking scheme than the shock capturing breaking scheme using nonlinear shallow water equation. For comparison with the schemes in the model, the fourth order MUSCL-TVD scheme by Erduran et al.(2005) and the third order MUSCL-TVD scheme using minmod limiter is applied, and the numerical solutions of solitary wave are compared.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.4B
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• pp.243-251
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• 2012

To investigate the characteristics of rip current occurring at Haeundae beach, observations obtained from a buoy and a CCTV were analyzed and numerical experiments were conducted. During observed rip-current events, the CCTV images showed that a couple of wave-trains, which are close to regular waves with slightly different directions, propagated to the beach, and wavelet analyses of data from the buoy showed very narrow-banded spectra with a peak frequency. From the evidences, it was inferred that a known mechanism of generating rip current due to the nodal line area of honeycomb-patterned wave crest was one of the significant factors of rip current occurrences of Haeundae beach. The mechanism has been explained by the following: When two wave-trains with slightly different directions propagate to a beach, wave crests of the incident wave-trains form honeycomb pattern due to nonlinear interaction. The nodal lines of honeycomb pattern are developed in the cross-shore direction. And longshore currents flow toward the nodal line area which has very low wave energy. Consequently their mass flux is expelled through the area toward the sea direction. To confirm the generation, numerical experiments were performed using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. In the cases with two incident wave-trains with slightly different directions and with a monochromatic wave propagating over a submerged shoal, it was seen that the honeycomb pattern of wave crests was well developed, and thus rip currents were evolved along the nodal lines.