• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.117-126
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• 2009

In order to test the accuracy between the modified mild slope equation (MMSE) without evanescent modes and the plane-wave approximation (PA) of eigenfunction expansion method, various numerical results from both models are presented. In this study, analytical solutions of two models are employed, one based on the MMSE derived by Porter (2003) and the other on the scatterer method of PA by Seo (2008a). Judging from direct comparisons against existing results of rapidly varying topography, the PA model gives better predictions of the wave propagation than the MMSE model.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.521-532
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• 2007

In the derivation of mild slope equation, a Galerkin method is used to rigorously form the Sturm-Liouville problem of depth dependent functions. By use of the canonical transformation to the dependent variable of the equation a reduced Helmholtz equation is obtained which exclusively consists of terms proportional to wave number, bottom slope and bottom curvature. Through numerical studies the behavior of terms is shown to play an important role in wave transformations over variable depth and it is proved that their relative magnitudes limit applicability of the mild slope equation(MSE) against the modified mild slope equation(MMSE).

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.360-371
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• 2006

In order to calculate waves propagating into the shallow water region, a generalized parabolic approximate model is presented. The model is derived from the modified mild slope equation and includes all the existing parabolic models presented in the paper. Numerical results are presented in comparison to laboratory data of Berkhoff et al.(1982). The existing parabolic model shows almost same accuracy against the modified parabolic model and both results of models stand in closer agreement to the laboratory data. Therefore the existing parabolic model based on mild slope equation is a useful tool to compute shallow water waves which turns out to be more fast and stable in computational aspect.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2006.09a
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• pp.69-72
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• 2006

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.165-172
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• 2009

A set of equations for description of transformation of harmonic waves is proposed here. Velocity potential function and separation of variables are introduced for the derivation. The continuity equation is in a vertical plane is integrated through the water so that a horizontal one-dimensional wave equation is produced. The new equation composed of the complex velocity potential function, further be modified into. A set up of equations composed of the wave amplitude and wave phase gradient. The horizontally one-dimensional equations on the wave amplitude and wave phase gradient are the first and second-order ordinary differential equations. They are solved in a one-way marching manner starting from a side where boundary values are supplied, i.e. the wave amplitude, the wave amplitude gradient, and the wave phase gradient. Simple spatially-centered finite difference schemes are adopted for the present set of equations. The equations set is applied to three test cases, Booij's inclined plane slope profile, Massel's smooth bed profile, and Bragg's wavy bed profile. The present equations set is satisfactorily verified against existing theories including Massel's modified mild-slope equation, Berkhoff's mild-slope equation, and the full linear equation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.39-44
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• 2009

To improve the accuracy of numerical simulation of wave trans- formation across the surf zone, nonlinear shoaling effect based on Shuto's empirical formula and breaking mechanism are induced in the elliptic modified mild slope equation. The variations of shoaling coefficient with relative depth and deep water wave steepness are successfully reproduced and show good agreements with Shuto's formula. Breaking experiments show larger wave height distributions than linear model due to nonlinear shoaling but breaking mechanism shows a little bit larger damping in 1/20 beach slope experiment.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.28-33
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• 1990

A parabolic model is presented for the effective calculation of refraction-diffraction of regular water while they are propagating on the water of slowly varying sea bed with currents. Parabolic wave equation has been used in the model, which is derived from a mild-slope equation using Pade' approximation. With the corrections of Kirby's (1986) model some numerical experiments were carried out to analyze the model accuracy.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.55-63
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• 1998

Recently the modified mild-slope equation has been developed by several researchers using different approaches, which, compared to the Berkhoff's mild-slope equation, includes additional terms proportional to the square of bottom slope and to the bottom curvature. By examining this equation, it is shown that both terms are equally important in intermediate-depth water, but in shallow water the influence of the bottom curvature term diminishes while that of the bottom slope square term remains significant. In order to examine the importance of these terms in more detail, the modified mild-slope equation and the Berkhoff's mild-slope equation are tested for the problems of wave reflection from a plane slope, a non-plane slope, and periodic ripples. It is shown that, when only the bottom slope is concerned, the mild-slope equation can give accurate results up to a slope of 1 in 1 rather than 1 in 3, which, until now, has been known as the limiting bottom slope for its proper application. It is also shown that the bottom curvature term plays an important role in modeling wave propagation over a bottom topography with relatively mild variation, but, where the bottom slope is not small, the bottom slope square term should also be included for more accurate results.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.174-180
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• 2010

The inhomogeneous Helmholtz equation is introduced for variable water depth and potential function and separation of variables are introduced for the derivation. Only harmonic wave motions are considered. The governing equation composed of the potential function for irrotational flow is directly applied to the still water level, and the inhomogeneous Helmholtz equation for variable water depth is obtained. By introducing the wave amplitude and wave phase gradient the governing equation with complex potential function is transformed into two equations of real variables. The transformed equations are the first and second-order ordinary differential equations, respectively, and can be solved in a forward marching manner when proper boundary values are supplied, i.e. the wave amplitude, the wave amplitude gradient, and the wave phase gradient at a side boundary. Simple spatially-centered finite difference numerical schemes are adopted to solve the present set of equations. The equation set is applied to two test cases, Booij’ inclined plane slope profile, and Bragg’ wavy bed profile. The present equations set is satisfactorily verified against other theories including the full linear equation, Massel's modified mild-slope equation, and Berkhoff's mild-slope equation etc.