• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.91-98
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• 2000

The present paper is Part 2 of three-part paper for an experimental study on breaking waves generated by a submerged cylinder. Measurements of velocity and head loss profiles at the wakes of cylinder and breaker as well as the turbulent intensities in breaking region were made to elucidate the viscous aspects of breaking waves. Their mutual correlation is also investigated. It is found that the head loss profile is an excellent indicator of the strength and extent of breaker. Very high turbulent intensities measured at and just downstream of the breaker indicate the consequence of energy transfer of wave breaking into turbulence.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2007.05a
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• pp.592-596
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• 2007

본 연구에서는 구조물 전면에서 발생하는 권파와 그 이후 발생하는 처오름과 월파의 유속장을 계측하기 위하여 수리모형실험을 실시하였으며, 실험결과를 이용하여 월파의 유속분포를 나타내는 경험식을 제안하였다. 구조물 전면에서 내습파랑이 쇄파된 이후, 구조물을 월파하는 동안에 유체의 흐름은 넓은 연행기포의 지역을 형성하며 다위상(multiphase)상태가 된다. 쇄파에 의한 구조물 주위에서의 유체흐름 중 연행기포가 없는 영역의 유속 측정에는 입자화상유속계(particle image velocimetry, PIV)기법을, 연행기포 영역에서의 유속 측정에는 기포화상유속계(particle image velocimetry, BIV)기법을 적용하였다. 두 기법을 이용하여 측정된 유속장으로부터 구조물 주위에서의 쇄파, 처오름 및 월파시의 최대유속을 계측하였다. 구조물 위로 월파된 유체 흐름 분포는 비선형적인 특성을 보여주며, 시간별 최대유속은 주로 유체의 전면부에서 발생하는 것으로 나타났다. 또한 무차원화된 유속분포로부터 구조물 위에서의 월파시 유속분포가 자기상사성(self-similarity)을 갖는다는 것을 알 수 있었으며, 이를 이용하여 월파의 유속분포를 위한 실험적 경험식을 제시하였다.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2001.05a
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• pp.260-265
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• 2001

본 연구에서는 연속 웨이블렛 변환을 이용하여 Ringing 현상을 연구하였다. 사용되어진 웨이블렛은 Morlet 웨이블렛이었고, 실험은 파수조에서 수행되었다. 또한 Ringing 현상을 다루고자 쇄파를 발생시켰다. 실험에 쓰인 모델은 수면을 통과하여 수직으로 고정된 원주 실린더였고, 이 실린더에 작용된 힘과 파고가 측정되어졌다. 이들은 연속 웨이블렛 변환으로 분석되어졌고, 이러한 분석으로 얻어진 scalogram 들은 고주파 성분이 쇄파 충격시 만들어진다는 사실을 시간영역상에서 보여주었다. 이는 기존의 스펙트럼 분석에서는 찾기 힘든 것이다. Coherence 분석도 위의 결론을 뒷받침해 주었다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.136-145
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• 2007

When waves propagating over an underwater shoal break at the top of the shoal, wave heights are drastically decreased in the downstream breaking zone, but a secondary current shooting downstream with strong velocity can be induced by the breaking waves themselves. In the case that an offshore structure is placed in the breaking zone, the estimation of wave farce purely based on the visible wave height may cause an under-design of the structure. Thus, for the safe design of the structure, the breaking wave induced current should be necessarily considered in the comprehensive estimation of design load. In the present study, Boussinesq equation model to calculate the wave height distribution and breaking wave induced current was set up and applied to the scheme of a hydraulic model test previously undertaken. Based on the results of the Boussinesq model, fluid forces acting on the model structure were calculated and compared with the experimental results. The importance of the breaking wave induced current was quantitatively assessed by comparing fluid forces with or without current.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.149-155
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• 1999

A treatment of wave breaking is included in the extended Boussinesq equations of Nwogu. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the computa¬tional domain. The model uses fourth-order Adams predictor-corrector method to advance in time, and discretizes first-order spatial derivatives to fourth-order accuracy, and thus reducing all truncation errors to a level smaller than the dispersive terms. The generated wave fields are found to be good and the corresponding wave heights are very close to their target values. For the tests of wave breaking, although agreement is considered to be reasonable, wave heights in the inner surf zone are over-predicted. This indicates the breaking parameters in the model should be adjusted.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.303-312
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• 2007

There is still a controversy going on about how to model energy dissipation due to breaking over frequency domain. In this study, we unveil the exact structure of energy dissipation using stochastic wave breaking model. It turns out that contrary to our present understanding, energy dissipation is cubically distributed over frequency domain. The verification of proposed model is conducted using the acquired data during SUPERTANK Laboratory Data Collection Project (Krauss et al., 1992). For further verification, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of Conoidal wave over a beach of uniform slope, and obtain very promising results from the viewpoint of a skewness and asymmetry of wave field, usually regarded as the most fastidious parameter to satisfy.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.201-206
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• 2019

The flooding and overtopping due to unexpected large ocean wave may occur serious problems to environments and structures. Generally fixed wave breakers and several structures were installed to prevent such damages, however, they may affect to environments and charted path of ships badly. In this regard, new type of initial wave breaker was investigated in both of experimentally and numerically. For the experiments, conceptual devices were built by authors with stereo vision system. The moving particle semi-implicit method was adopted for simulation. It is revealed that the initial wave breaker reduce the damages from ocean waves by energy dissipated earlier. Furthermore, the effects of position of the initial wave breaker was also considered.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2004.11a
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• pp.96-101
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• 2004

When the wind blows hard, most waves are breaking in sea. Breaking waves occur, exceeding limitation of wave steepness(wave height/wave length=l/7). Because a wave of single angular frequency couldn't generate the breaking phenomena at two dimensional ocean engineering basin, the breaking wave can be generated by the superposition of waves with various angular frequencies. We research how are the particle kinematics in the breaking wave and the magnitude of the breaking wave exciting force. We compare the force in a regular wave which has same specifications(wave height, period and length) as the breaking wave. Also the experimental results of wave exciting force and particle velocity are investigated by comparison on the analytic results using the potential theory.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.511-520
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• 2007

WAM(WAve Model), deep water wave model has been extended to the region of shallow water, incorporating wave breaking, and triad wave interaction. To verify the model, numerical simulation of waves in Youngil bay, Pohang is performed and the simulated results show good agreements with measured wave data sets, one station at the mouth of bay and two stations inside the bay. As waves propagate toward the shore, wave height gradually diminishes by bottom friction and wave breaking, and wave direction, initially NE changes normal to the shore due to depth refraction.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.21 no.1 s.74
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• pp.18-24
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• 2007

When the wind blows strong, most waves are breaking at sea. Breaking waves occur by exceeding the limitation of wave steepness (wave height/wave length = 1/7). Because a wave of single angular frequency couldn't generate the breaking phenomena at a two-dimensional ocean engineering basin, the breaking wave can be generated by the superposition of waves with various angular frequencies based on dispersion relation. This study investigates the particle kinematics in the breaking wave and the magnitude of the breaking wave exciting force at the breaking point and breaking region. We compare the regular wave load in a regular wave, which has same specifications (wave height, period and length), with the breaking waveload. Also, the experimental results of wave exciting force and particle velocity are investigated, by comparison with the analytic results using the potential theory.