권호 표지

Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume

  • Bimonthly
  • /
  • 1229-6880(pISSN)
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  • 2287-7827(eISSN)

Domain

  • Culture/Arts/Sports ＞ Clothing Design
  • Human Ecology ＞ Clothing

Aim & Scope

한국복식학회 학술지 ‘服飾’은 복식전공분야의 학문적 교류를 통한 복식학 분야의 발전에 이바지함을 그 목적으로 하고 있습니다. 즉 각 전공분야의 정보를 신속하게 공유하여 복식 산업발전에 기여하며 패션산업 현장에서의 디자인을 비롯한 여러 분야의 연구에 실질적인 도움을 주고자 합니다. ‘服飾’ 학술지에는 복식사, 복식미학 및 패션디자인, 패션마케팅, 및 심리, 의복구성 및 텍스타일, 복식일반을 비롯한 복식 전반에 걸친 학자들의 연구 성과를 싣고 있습니다. ‘服飾’은 2003년부터 한국연구재단 등재학술지로 지정되었으며, 지금까지 연 10회 발행되던 학술지를 게재논문의 질적 향상을 위하여 2020년부터는 연 6회 발행하고 있습니다. 또한 논문 Full-Text등을 전산화하여 인터넷에서도 검색이 가능한 정보화사업을 하고 있습니다. The purpose of the Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (JKSC), the academic journal of the Korean Society of Costume (KSC), is to contribute to the development and diversity of the study of costume by becoming a means to scholarly exchange. In other words, the goal is to contribute to the development of the fashion industry and to give practical assistance to various design-related research by prompt exchange of information from the various fields of costume studies. JKSC covers a broad spectrum of research outputs from the field of costume studies, such as the history of costume, dress aesthetics, fashion design, fashion marketing, psychology, clothing construction, and textiles. First published in 1977, JKSC has been listed on the Korean Citation Index (KCI) by the National Research Foundation of Korea (NRF) since 2003. Once published as frequently as 10 times per year, the JKSC has, since 2020, been published six times per year in order to better promote the qualitative improvement of its academic papers. KSC is now in the process of informatizing a system to provide a range of online services, while its full-text electronic resources are already available online.

http://onkjournal.co.kr/sobis/ksc.jsp KSCI KCI

Volume 57 Issue 5 Serial No. 114

  1. Kwon, Jin;Kwon, Myoung-Sook 1
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study was to analyze and minimize structural error between sample knitting and actual knitting in weft knitting apparel. Basic stitches used in this study were plain stitch, $0{\times}0$ rib stitch, $1{\times}1$ rib stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, Milan rib stitch. They were knitted into two different gauges(7 and 12 gauge) and 6 different sample sizes by computer program. The weight, length and width of these 5 basic knitting stitches were measured and their changes according to gauge, stitch and knitting were calculated and analyzed. The results were as follows; The weight of $0{\times}0$ rib stitch was the largest, followed by Milan rib stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, plain stitch and $1{\times}1$ rib stitch. As the density of stitch per unit area increases, the weight increases. The length of $0{\times}0$ rib stitch was the largest, followed by plain stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, $1{\times}1$ rib stitch and Milan stitch in both 7 and 12 gauge. As the number of course increases, the length increases accordingly. However, its increase ratio shows higher than that of number of course. It means that the reduction in number of course is needed to get aimed length. The width of Milan rib stitch was the largest, followed by $0{\times}0$ rib stitch, plain stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, $1{\times}1$ rib stitch in 7 gauge. In 12 gauge, Milan stitch, plain stitch and $0{\times}0$ rib stitch were the highest, followed by $2{\times}2$ rib stitch and $1{\times}1$ rib stitch. It showed that the change in shape of stitch influenced on the width more than the length of stitch.
  2. Ko, Young-Sook;Cho, Kyu-Hwa 12
    PDF KSCI
    This study aims at investigating Geisha costume hidden in the history until now and how the fashion of Geisha style is expressed in accordance with character through the movie 'Memoirs of a Geisha'. Major contents of the text consist of studies including the historical background and characteristics of Geisha costume in Chapter 2, the Japanese style expressed in the movie through the analysis of the work in Chapter 3, The movie brought in an opportunity to spread the mysterious culture and art of Japan to the world, making Japanese style an important interest in the world of fashion as well. In a way to study this, the investigation was carried out through literature data, DVD and newspaper of , fashion magazine, articles from the Internet, ete. The Geisha trend has made the hot blast blown harder in such ways to affect not only fashion but also cosmetics, electronic appliance, interior, etc. In S/S 2006, it was not limited to the Japanese style but diffused to the Orientalism in China, India, Korea, etc. It can be said that this study has its significance to be a starting point in investigating the special characters of Japanese Geisha costume hidden up to now. In the studies following in the future, the formative beauty demonstrated per Japanese designer needs to be more studied. Furthermore, it seems noteworthy to analyze and compare Chosun Dynasty's Kisaeng with Japanese Geisha.
  3. Lee, Joo-Young;Kwon, Young-Suk 33
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study is to examine the roles and costume of Sodong as shown in the illustration of Choseon Delegation to Japan. Results of the study can be described as below. First, as shown in the illustration, Sodong played roles as Tongin and dancer. As Tongin, Sodong provided services or made errands for his seniors. In the other role, while, Sodong danced to comfort his seniors and show dances of Choseon to Japanese people. Second, Sodong wore Kwaecha over Sochangeui throughout his march with the delegation as Tongin. This is probably because the two clothes made him feel convenient and easily active. In both 1700s and 1800s, meanwhile, Sodong also wore Jikryeong and Cheolik. Third, Sodong wore Kwaecha over Sochangeui, or Danryeong and Nansam all the time when he navigated together with the delegation. When passing through Tsusima into the Japanese mainland, which meant starting international exchanges between Choseon and Japan, Sodong sticked to formality to the utmost by wearing Danryeong and Nansam. Fourth, Sodong wore Kwaecha over Sochangeui when he performed as dancer. The two clothes were also worn by Mudong during outdoor banquets in Choseon at that time. In addition, it is thought that Sodong wore Jikryeong, Danryeong and Nansam like when he marched or navigated together with Choseon Delegation.
  4. Kim, Sun-Young 45
    PDF KSCI
    This study is on the aesthetic characteristics of Balenciaga design succeeded to by Nicolas Ghesquiere, and tried to understand his pursuing brand's new design concept and aesthetics. The three key characteristics of Balenciaga designed by Nicolas Ghesquiere are Retrospecitvness, Eclecticism, Deconstruciton. First, Balenciaga looks retrospective sense through reinterpreting tradition. Nicolas created a new sense of expression by mixing his proper instinct with Balenciaga's original properties, historical components of the past western dress, and various design elements of assistants who used to work in Balenciaga. Second, Balenciaga expresses uncertain meaning by compromising between contrast and synthesis among the past and the future, the males and the females, simple and ornament, or different styles. Third, Nicolas's experimental and outsider-oriented view of Deconstruction through reorienting of thought is considered a try for a new formative concept as a designer who is not limited by general rules.
  5. Kong, Jin-Hee;Kwon, Young-Ah 58
    PDF KSCI
    This study conducted a survey to find out atopic dermatitis patients' required performance and preference in design factors to develop spring/summer(S/S) knitwears preferred by atopic patients. On the platform of achieved information from statistical analysis, S/S knitwear samples for atopic patients were designed and constructed with cotton/Seacell(R) blended yarn, And subjective wearing sensation were evaluated comparing the samples and the commercial products made with cotton/chitosan blended yarn, trying to help producing more comfortable S/S knitwears for atopic patients. SPSS 12.0 program was used for frequency analysis, Chi-square analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The result was as follows; For comfort of S/S knitwears, atopic patients most considered skin care property. Atopic patients preferred simple and basic knitwear in light color with thin and soft fabric such as plain knit. The preferred style was that 'appropriately fit with suitable ease'. They also preferred 'closed front'; 'boat neckline' and 'V neckline'; 'raglan sleeve' and 'set-in sleeve'. For hem trim, they preferred 'rib' structure. Male preferred simple and plain style with 'round collar' and 'tubular or rib trim", while female preferred sophisticated and characteristic style with 'set-in sleeve' with 'rib trim'. Under the circumstances with insufficient functional knitwears developed, this study tried to develop comfort S/S knitwears for atopic dermatitis patients and the developed knitwears showed as good as or better performance in wearing feeling, fitting, and appearance than the previously developed functional goods.
  6. Jeong, Su-Jin;Kang, Kyung-Ja 72
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of eyeshadow color(brown, purple), lipstick color(red, red purple, and yellow red), and lipstick tone(vivid, light, dull, and dark), clothing color(same, different), clothing tone(vivid, light, dull, and dark) on image formation. Sets of stimulus and response scales(7 point semantic) were used as experimental materials. The stimuli were 128 color pictures manipulated with the combination of eyeshadow color, lipstick color, lipstick tone, clothing color, and clothing tone using computer simulation. The subjects were 768 female undergraduates living in Gyeongnam-do. Image factor of the stimulus was composed of 4 different components, attractiveness, visibility, stability, and softness). In the 4 image components, lipstick tone, clothing color and clothing tone showed independent effect. Eyeshadow color influenced independently on the attractiveness, visibility and stability. According to the variation of clothing color and tone, makeup color, it was investigated that the images for a clothing wearer were expressed diversely, were shown differently in image dimensions, and could be produced to different images.
  7. Choi, Kyu-Soon 90
    PDF KSCI
    Some study has showed that the origin of a woven with supplementary golden wefts in China was from Wei(魏) dynasty. The earliest, what we can see now, of a woven with supplementary golden wefts is the thing of Tang(唐) dynasty in China. So, until it has a new archaeological discovering, the study of the origin of it can but use literature records. This study compared with several records before Sui(隋) dynasty. It showed that the beginning of a woven with supplementary golden wefts in China was not from Wei dynasty but from Jin(晋) dynasty. This study also showed that the purse of the official had been weaving with supplementary golden Weft from Northern Qi(北齊) dynasty to Sui dynasty. These records are very important for studying woven with supplementary golden wefts in China.
  8. Kim, Hyun-Hee;Kim, Yong-Sook 99
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study were to identity face satisfaction and make-up behavior according to their lifestyles of middle aged women. The subjects were 350 women of 40 - 59 years old. The results of this study were as follow: 1. Lifestyle factors of middle aged women were self confidence, leisure activities, interests in appearance, economical efficiency, conservatism, and value-orientation. They were classified into four types of dignified & appearance interested group, passive stagnated group, unconfident & economic group, and value-oriented & leisure group according to their lifestyles. 2. They were satisfied with their eyes, lips, and eyebrows, but not satisfied with face tone, face shape, and skin texture. Total face satisfaction level was over average. The face satisfaction level of dignified & appearance interested group and value-oriented & leisure group were higher than other groups, but that of passive stagnated group was the lowest. 3. They pursued internal beauty and natural makeup, and did not follow trendy colors. Dignified & appearance interested group pursued characteristic, elegant, changeable, and various make-up colors, but value-oriented & leisure group pursued more various, changeable, and trendy colors. They did not prefer trendy products because of high price. Dignified & appearance interested group and unconfident & economic group were highly price-oriented, but value-oriented & leisure group purchased trendy products. 4. Dignified & appearance interested group included working women with not much income, but passive stagnated group included low-educated and non-working women. Unconfident & economic group included low-educated non-working women with not much income, but value-oriented & leisure group included highly-educated working women with high income.
  9. Lee, Hye-Ja 112
    PDF KSCI
    This study reviewed the costume mainly on the Joseon Giroyondo(耆老宴圖) between 17th 18th Century. In Joseon Dynasty, they produced paintings to commemorate the meeting of Girohwe(耆老會), namely Giroyon(耆老宴); this painting is Giroyondo. The feature of Giroyon depended on political purpose and social phenomenon. Therefore, the composition of figures in Giroyondo and their costume were seen differently. By its character, Giroyondo was classified into official one from Giroso(耆老所), private one arranged by the participants and Court Giroyon(宮中腸宴圖). People figured in Giroyondo are roughly divided into costume in Girosin(耆老臣) officials and minor officials. Girosin officials wore Hongdalyong(紅團領) and Samo(紗帽) in official Giroyondo while they wore Hungnib(黑笠.) and Jingnyong(直領) in private Giroyondo. In Court Giroyon, which was for classy and formal Court event, they wore Dalyong(團領) and Samo but in colors of blue and green. Minor officials were observed in two categories; those who wore Samo and Gakdae(角帶), and those in Dugeon(頭巾). However, they were not showed up in private Giroyondo.
  10. Lee, Yu-Ri;Lee, Mi-Young 123
    PDF KSCI
    Since the late 1980's, the number of research papers published in the Journal of the Korean Society of Costume(JKSC) has increased. The JKSC is usually known for its focus on issues relevant to the aesthetics of dress, fashion design, and the history of Western or Oriental dress. The main goal of this paper is to link the academic importance of the fashion marketing field to the expansion of the journal and society. First, we defined the scope of the fashion marketing field, based on a literature review and general practices of other competitive societies and journals. First, we reviewed the curricula of the fashion marketing field from 49 universities in Korea. Next, we examined the research topics and methodology of 271 papers in the fashion marketing field published in JKSC since its first issue in 1977. By comparing the findings from the curricula and research, we drew conclusions for the fashion marketing field of the journal and society. We found that the approximately 80% of the fashion marketing courses provided at the undergraduate level are related to merchandise planning and selling processes from the company perspective. However, in more than 85% of the research papers, consumer characteristics and decision-making processes were the main focus and were used as key variables. These findings imply that more various methodological approaches are required for the research to enrich the theoretical background which, in turn, can support curricular development in fashion marketing field. The fashion marketing field in JKSC and society should make the most of accumulated knowledge in product design, symbolic aspects of fashion, and the qualitative approach in the research topics of the JKSC and society.
  11. Kim, Eun-Jung;Kang, Soon-Che 140
    PDF KSCI
    The study aimed to classify the synonyms of clothing terms, such as equal relationship, connoting relationship and partial relationship. The subjects of the study are eleven Chinese character study books such as <石峰千字文 Seokbongcheonjamun> <丙子本千字文 Byeongjacheonjamun>, <註解千字文 Juhaecheonjamun>, <訓蒙字會 Hungmongjahoi>, <新增類合 Sinjeungyuhap>, <兒學編 Aahakpyeon(1816) (1908)>, <蒙喩編 Mongyupyeon>, <字類註釋 Jalyujuseok>, <正蒙類語 Joengmongyueo> and <通學徑編 Tonghakgyeongpyeon>, seven foreign language study books such as <譯語類解 Yeokeoyuhae>, <譯語類解補編 Yeokeoyuhae-supplementary book>, <同文類解 Dongnunyuhae>, <蒙語類解 Mongeoyuhae>, <蒙語類解補編 Mongeoyuhae-supplementary book>, <倭語類解 Oaeeoyuhae> and <方言類釋 Bangeonyuseok>, and some vocabulary books <才物譜 Jaemulbo>, <廣才物譜 Kwangjaemulbo>, <物譜 Mulbo>, <物名攷 Mulmyeongko>, and <事類博解 Salyupakhae>. There are two kinds of synonyms with equal relationship that are spelled as more than two names for the same clothing. The first group was names that have different vocabularies for the same Chinese character headword, for example, Gyeokji and Namosin, Jeoguriot and Dongdolssi, Deungjige and Got dongot, Daloi and Nangja, Jitbidan and Oaedan, jusa and jeuusya, jusa and Murui, Muja and Heoja, and so on. The second group was names that are spelled with sound and meaning of Chinese character, for example, Nuyeok and Saui, Binhyeo and Jam, Mosi and Jyeopo, and so on. Also synonyms of Chinese names were found in equal relationship. Synonyms with connoting relationship in which one name perfectly connotes meaning of another name are Gotgal and Susik, Danryeong and Gwandae, Bosyeon and Chyeong, ete. In these cases, the range of the meaning of clothing terms can be confirmed since names with broad meaning connote names with narrow meaning. There are differences in use and form. In partial relationship synonym with the same name, some synonyms like Baji and Goui, and jeoksam and Hansam have difference in use, while Gamto, Got and Sarno, Neolku and Satgat, and Nangja and Cheopji have difference in form. These presented differences among similar names.
  12. Kim, Jeong-Hee 151
    PDF KSCI
    Appearance matters in society today. Women want to feel good and look their best. They do make-up, wear garment and accessory for their good looking. Doing make-up, we have to know how we are look and to consider face shape. But it is difficult to recognize face shape. Because there is no standard face shape of adult women of quantitative analysis. The purpose of this study was to offer standard face shape of adult women in Korea. Furthermore, the study was to determine and differentiate face shape of each age group to set the basic data for the Korean beauty industry. In this study, photographs of 600 Korean women, age between $20{\sim}50's$, were indirectly measured in Venus face2D program. The measurements were analyzed by statistical methods. As a result of basic statistical data analysis, the average lengths of face were 196mm, lengths of forehead-hairline between eyebrows were 62mm, lengths of eyebrow between noses were 68mm, length of nose between chin were 66mm, and width of face were 150mm. By comparing to each age group's face using ANOVA, the statistically noticeable differences were found in measurements.
  13. Choi, Kyung-Hee 166
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study is to reinterpret sexuality represented in fashion since the latter half of the 19th century in a contextual view, on the basis of Foucauldian idea of post-structural sexuality. As for research methodology, literary research was undertaken from the conception of sexuality to a historical review of the culture and dress. Foucault maintains the view of plural sexuality, which floats by power relationship between dominant and oppositional discourses in a specific historical context. In contextual approach sexual ideology codified in fashion since the latter 19C shows the following aspects: First, the traditional sexual ideology in the latter 19C is a capitalist value, which gives a priority to bourgeois man's profits, and the Victorian discourses of sexuality constructs the dichotomized fashion of the period. Next, the former half of the $20^{th}$ C is regarded as the period of conformity rather than opposition with various alternatives appropriated to the mainstream, so the traditional sexual ideology in fashion of this period is still preserved. Finally, in post-capitalism period of the latter 20C a variety of anti-fashion visualized plural sexuality from the enormous oppositional discourses. Although it doesn't all mean deconstruction of sexuality in fashion by the anti-fashion re-appropriated without oppositional meanings, pluralization of sexuality implies dynamics of sexual discourses in the next historical period. As a result, fashion since the latter 19C has been changed as a means for expressing age and sexual desire out of gender and class. And mainstream fashion in even postmodern period keeps the modern value on the center of the hegemonic heterosexual masculinity though the increase of Androgynous Femininity in women's fashion may connote the meaning of femininity. The plural sexuality represented in fashion has a contextual flexibility, thus sexuality floats with a specific socio-cultural context and fashion represents a masquerade as an identity vehicle.
  14. Lim, Ji-Young 183
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    The purpose of the study was to investigate the harmony range and the disharmony range by evaluating the degrees of harmony in terms of types of coloration in men's shirts and neckties. In addition, the study aimed to examine perceptional differences between male and female towards degrees of harmony affected by types of coloration; tone on tone coloration(64), tone in tone coloration(96), contrast coloration(128), achromatic-chromatic coloration(96), and achromatic-achromatic coloration(16). The 4,032 male and 4,032 female college students, were participated in this study. The results are as follows. For five types of coloration, the harmony range and disharmony range were identified. Tone on tone and achromatic-chromatic coloration had a more wide range than tone in tone and contrast coloration from both male and female students. The male students had a more wide range of harmony on all coloration.