• 디자인학연구
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.233-244
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• 2005

현시대의 사회 문화적 기호로 대표되는 것 가운데 하나가 패션이다. 이는 패션이 전달하는 스타일이 단순한 양식이나 유행의 개념에 그치지 않고 일종의 소통의 코드이며 그 자체로서 하나의 미디어로서 기능하기 때문이다. 음악은 항상 패션에 자신의 힘을 과시해 왔고 패션 역시 음악에 영향력을 발휘하고 있다. 패션은 시각을 음악은 소리를 통해 세계에 대한 우리의 이미지를 표현하는 방식으로 패션과 음악은 뗄 수 없는 불가분의 관계를 가지고 있다. 또한 패션과 음악은 모두 사회상을 투영하는 동시에 사회군화 전반에 걸쳐 영향을 주고있는데 음악이 새로이 변화할 때마다 항상 새로운 청년문화가 창출되어 왔으며 이 문화들은 뚜렷한 패션 경향을 이루며 확산되어 왔다. 본 연구에서는 하위문화 집단에서 그들만의 정체성과 의식을 표현하기 위해 사용되는 패션 스타일과 음악 유형들 간의 관련성을 기호적 관점에서 분석함으로써 청년문화 저변에 자리잡고 있는 대중 음악과 패션 스타일의 관련성을 규명하였다. 이와 같이 하위문화는 자신의 삶의 조건이 강제하는 모순으로부터 도피하거나 이를 해결하는 가장 중요한 기제로써 표상행위가 되고 그들 스스로 독특한 음악 스타일이나 의복 스타일을 개발하여 상징적 저항의 기의를 표출하고 있었다. 결론적으로 하위문화에 있어서 대중음악과 패션스타일과의 관계는 내면의 가치를 기호화한 상동성으로 나타나고 있음을 알 수 있다.

• 복식
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• 제52권5호
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• pp.173-186
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• 2002

Street Style, occurred in British and America, has been expressed the character of the new generation by repeating developments and changes. Nowadays, pop music reflects the phase of society. and simultaneously it has influence on from culture to society. Rock Music was rooted in Country 8l western of America. Upon Country & Western, Afro-Americans Rhythm & Blues was added, and that was the birth of Rockabilly. Rockabilly developed to Rock'n 'roll and it started to change to various forms of Rock since 1950s. As the commercial impact and the breakthrough of teenagers emotion, the rock culture comprised the base of the youth culture. However. it formed the anti-establishment culture against the established value, accepting working class subculture. The teenager culture was affected by the Rock culture, also found relief in the opulence provided by the established generation, imitating it as it was. Simultaneously, it had a contrary aspect as anti-establishment form under the banner of revolt against languor in richness. The youth culture created street style that was escaped from high fashion, every time Rock music had changes. Since Street style was based on resistance of established culture and it fully refused vogue, it was indifferent from high fashion. The results of this study were as following. First, every time Rock music had changes, the new youth culture was concomitant with, the youth culture created street style. Secondly, rockahibilly style was characterized as diamond shaped design, embroidery, extra wide shirt collar, vivid contrast color . Rockers style was represented as metal studs, beads, denim, leather jacket, boots. Fusion of hippies style and Psychedelic, long hair, beads. worn denim were elements of headbangers style. Punks style was characterized as ripped T-shirt. rooster hair, over decorated jacket, short skirt. net or plastic T-shirt. Lastly, the firm relation between popular art and fashion was proved by examining the history of Rock Music and Street Style.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.108-115
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• 2024

Contemporary Chinese "micro-perspective" painting is an artistic phenomenon that we cannot ignore. It is the young artists who focus on themselves and their communities, record their stories and emotions in their life fragments into the coming history, and diary paintings as "micro-perspective" paintings allow "marginal people" to find their place. Based on the analysis of the aesthetic form and aesthetic characteristics of Chinese contemporary art, this paper explores the three aesthetic dimensions and their inherent aesthetic value, and explains its significance from the perspective of "micro-view" aesthetics. In the contemporary context, "micro-perspective" painting has become a unique cultural phenomenon, a consciousness situation. However, this phenomenon has a very unique artistic value and cultural value for the youth art group and even the formation of aesthetic culture and zeitgeist in China's current society.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.115-125
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• 2020

Rider jackets were once reserved for military uniforms but have become an important styling item in recent fashion trends. The design characteristics of the rider jacket are rooted in symbolism, and the image associated with a rider jacket is in line with the challenging of authority and being a member of the rebellious youth subculture. Usually, young people with anti-social tendencies wore jackets, and some styles were used as a medium to express their emotional homogeneity, and they received favorable responses as the items represented them. The design characteristics of a rider jacket can be largely divided into resistance against the older generation, violence, challenging cultural norms, sexuality, and resistance, as well as embodying violent characteristics, including strength, courage. and male chauvinism. The reason for the development of these challenging characteristics are disparagement and anger of the lower class, who were excluded from mainstream society. Rider jackets can be viewed negatively due to the kind of message it is conveying against mainstream society. Among the sexual features were leather pants, short-length leather rider jackets, glossy metal accessories, and belt buckles, which also highlighted gay and decadent images that came to be associated with the jackets. The drapery created various kinds of wrinkles according to the way of dressing, and it had beautiful expressiveness while serving to express the body more beautifully. Drapery can be classified according to the aesthetic characteristics or expression techniques, and if the type of drapery is classified according to the morphological characteristics, it can be classified into variable and fixed structures, depending on whether the part to which the drapery is applied is fluid or not. In other words, it depends on the dressing method or the intention, and if the drapery technique is directly applied to the garment or is attached to the form. This fashion design proposal may have the greatest significance in that it sought to propose a new style incorporating a drapery technique with a strong feminine image to a rider jacket, which traditionally was associated with a masculine image.

• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.197-215
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• 1998

Vivienne Westwood, the revolutionary cre-ator of Punk fashion(ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, fetishist accoutrements) was a street fashion designer. Although Westwood's clothes have frequently been described as decadent, degenerate and unwearable, they have also exerted a powerful influence on interntional fashion. Westwood became a fashion designer in the mid-1970s, when he emergence of Punk put London back on the fashion map for the first time since 1965. Just as the Mods, Rockers, and Hippies of the 1960s had embraced par-ticular styles of dress and music, so also did the Punks create their own subculture. The Punk“style in revolt”was a deliberately“re-volting style”that incorporated into fashion various offensive or threatening objects like tampons, razor blades, and lavatory chains. Vivienne Westwood and parter Malcolm McLaren articulated this youth culture, who roots lay in music. A sign is something which stands for some object or idea, while the semiotics are the ex-ternal expression for an internal meaning. Semiotics can be used as a medium of communication between dress and music. A language is simply used for explicit of meaning, while the style of dress and music express the explicative and implicative signs. Peirce's scheme among several theories of the semiotics was chosen for this study, because the Peirce's scheme was the first non-language communication medium between external and internal stages, and readily inter-preted the styles of dress and music. Punk rock was studied at first to identify the style which influenced Vivienne Westwood's works and then Semiotics were used to apply the above results to the 1970s and 1990s for analyzing and interpreting the Vivienne Westwood's works were also interpreted by the symbolic characteristics of Semiotics, because the symbol of semiotics often found at Youth Cults reflected punk rock. The symbol of revolt, decadence, grungy, freedom in Vivienne Wes-twood's works wre determined by using Punk rock's semiotics. This study could conclude that the style of dress and punk rock were able to be interpreted by semiotics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.626-639
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• 2009

As the global trend of Retro combined with the tendency of individualism which respects dramatic change and diversity in the 21st century, Goth subculture of Korea developed into various popular styles. This study, noticing the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture and fashion trends, intends to examine the current fashion trends to analyze the various aspects of the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture. To do this, various documents and numerous Internet materials on the Korean Goth culture are comprehensively reviewed, and the Goth look images of popular stars, photographs from fashion magazines and fashion collections are gathered, analysed, and classified into types, and the specific characteristics of these types are comprehensively analysed. According to the result of this research, Punk Goth look, departing from the sensational and aggressive style of Punk look, expresses sexy and luxurious images, while Romantic Goth look shows the brilliant and cheerful style by mixing the cute girlish image and the elegant feminine image of exaggerated details and voluminous silhouette. Avant garde Goth look parodies Goth image by using the dramatic effects of Goth images or is expressed in performances. Sexy Goth look, which reveals the sexual attractiveness of men and women much more assertively, tries to do suggestive representation and excessive exposure of human body. Dandy Goth look, which has the simple and modern line, expresses the calm and chic feeling by employing basic items with minimized details and coordinating unique accessories for accent.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.623-634
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to explore the culture of clothing of subgroups among adolescents by residence. In this research informants were selected by selective sampling and ethnographic methods such as field work depth interviews and open-ended descriptions were employed to interpret their culture of clothing. The results were followed. First our adolescents enjoyed the popular song as leisure and these popular culture was their inspiration source of style. Second adolescents were grouping the Kang-Bouk and the adolescents group preferred the style of popular singers and the Kang-Nam adolescents group preferred the musical competence of singers and specific type particularly Hip-Hop style. And in acception pattern of fashion style the Kang-Bouk groups accepted the recent fashion style continuously and wanted to be striking while the Kang-Nam groups accepted the various Hip-Hop styles and sought to comfort and suitability of that style. Third to consider the connotations of marketing the Kan-Bouk groups shopped on the street perceived as fashionable among peer groups and sought to the lower price but the Kang-Nam groups used the shops selling their original ip-Hop style without regard to the price and sites. Although there existed a two years' difference between the first and the second research(1996-1998) subgroups among adolescents according to the residence have had their own culture of clothing constantly. And a segmentation tendency by clothing behavior within the same adolescent generation is revealed more visibly.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to illuminate the relations between Pop Art and pop music, which formed a serious coupling loop in an identical cultural background. Also this study intends to set up a position of visualized sexual identity as it Points out the conceptional characteristics of glam, a subculture outside mainstream, which includes the matters of sexual minorities such as homosexuality and bisexuality under the influence of the aesthetic and philosophical composition by Andy Warhol. In conjunction herewith, we explore the visual representation of glam style focusing on the influence of Warhol. The classification and explanation about the visual representation of glam style under the influence of Warhol are practised by distinguishing as denotative representation and connotative representation. For the denotative representation shown in the glum style, first, the discordant images were put together by bricolage, then adapted into the new dramatic symbol of youth. Second, through a visually androgynous style a subversion of sex for symbols of sexuality and gender was represented. Third, the factitiveness as a weird display and fallacy is shown from boisterous make-up and unisex sかling in theatricality and put-ons, featuring artificiality, assemblage and unnaturality. And the connaotative representation shown in glum inglam style, first, glam style implies its experimental nature which attempts to break down boundaries between masculinity and femininity, homosexuality and heterosex-uality. Second, the bricolage in sequin and other discordant elements have connotative meanings as sensuality and excessiveness. Third, mixing various style as sexual play shows ironic visual images, in accordance with Superior Theory and Discord Theory.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제17권8호
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• pp.396-405
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• 2017

2000년대 이후 청소년의 팬덤활동에 대한 연구들이 지속적으로 이루어지고 있다. 팬덤활동은 청소년들에게 하나의 하위문화이기 때문에 문화를 인정해주는 동시에, 부정적인 영향을 줄일 수 있는 방법으로 도움을 줄 필요가 있다. 따라서, 본 연구에서는 청소년들의 팬덤활동이 삶만족도에 영향을 미치는지 알아보고, 자아존중감이 조절효과를 보이는지 살펴보았다. 연구를 위하여 한국청소년정책연구원에서 실시한 한국아동 청소년패널조사 중 초등학교 1학년의 6차년도 자료를 이용하였으며, 총 1088명의 자료를 분석하였다. 본 연구의 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 청소년의 팬덤활동과 삶만족도, 팬덤활동과 자아존중감은 부적 상관이 있었다. 청소년의 자아존중감과 삶만족도는 정적인 상관이 있었다. 둘째, 청소년의 팬덤활동은 삶만족도에 부정적인 영향을 미치고, 팬덤활동과 삶만족도의 관계에서 자아존중감은 조절효과를 보이는 것으로 나타났다. 본 연구는 팬덤활동의 부정적인 역할을 조절할 수 있는 변인을 밝혔다는 데 의의가 있고, 추후 팬덤활동과 개인내적변인, 청소년의 삶만족도와의 관계에 대한 심층적인 연구를 할 수 있는 발판을 마련하였다.