• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.10
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• pp.55-71
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• 2011

Court ladies' tasks were largely divided into two. First, if there is a royal family event, such as the royal family's wedding or feast, they followed the rules and regulations of work division that was defined in "Gyeonggukdaejeon". Secondly, during normal days, they were divided into Jimil (至密), Chimbang (針房), Subang (繡房), Sesugan (洗手間), Saenggwabang (生果房), Naesojubang (內燒廚房), and Oesojubang (外燒廚房) and took charge of female work that was needed daily at the palace including serving, cooking, laundry, needlework, embroidery, cleaning, and nurturing. This organization was operated by different palaces such as the daejeon(king's palace), daebijeon(queen dowager's palace), junggungjeon(queen's palace), or sejagung(prince's palace). Court ladies were selected among female slaves of the government office or naesusa(a ministry of royal household properties). Although commoners were forbidden to be selected, they sometimes became court ladies voluntarily for financial reasons or because of the will of their parents. Court ladies had different appearances according to the division they belonged to. The court girls of Jimil, Chimbang, and Subang wore saeangmeori while court girls from other places had braided hairstyles. At Jimil, they wore all different kinds of chima(skirt) and jeogori(jacket). Usually, court ladies wore navy chima, jade jeogori, green gyeonmagi(top jacket) with the uyeomeori hairstyle. When working in the evening, they wore pink jeogori or yellow-green jeogori, navy chima with the jojimmeori hairstyle for easiness to stay up all night and work. Navy chima was worn by court ladies. If there was a royal family event upper court ladies wore uyeomi, black or green wonsam, and stewards wore garima and dangui.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.787-800
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• 2020

This study aims to derive the criteria of folding techniques and their characteristics through analysis of literature and previous studies. This will be realized by performing a case study on male fashion design and folding. It will propose diverse directions and data for male fashion design, by making men's jackets using a folding technique. The concept and terms of folding were clarified through examination of existing literature and previous studies. Specifically, four pieces were created with motifs of the four seasons. Among the types of pleats expressed in the works, composition pleats include double ruffles, gathers, and draperies, while processed ones include box pleats, knife pleats, and accordion pleats. This study expresses continuity, fluidity, scalability, and ambiguity through the use of such pleats. The results of the production are as follows. First, in terms of the continuous use of regular and repetitive pleats, a possibility of rich pleats was confirmed because they varied depending on the gap between the pleat and target material. Second, in liquid but irregular pleats, diverse moods were created by the pleat movement. The overlapping of repeated pleats expresses diverse spaces and shapes in a 3D extended silhouette. Third, in pleat classification, ambiguity was confirmed with the use of continuous accordion pleats in the printed gradation fabric. It is anticipated that more diverse and creative designs could be created using more extended techniques in future studies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.5
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• pp.149-162
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• 2016

This study examines the costume artifacts discovered in the burial site of Choi Kyung Sun(1561~1622), which was moved from Gangwon in Gangrung Province. About 30 artifacts, including costumes, were recovered from Choi Kyung Sun's grave. The collection of men's coats discovered in the grave consisted of a Dallyeong (Official's robe), Jing-nyeong(Man's coat), Jungchi-mak(Man's coat), Cheolrik(Man's coat), Chang-ui(Man's coat), Gwang-su-ju-ui(Man's coat), and Do-po(Man's coat). Han-sam(Undershirts), Jeo-go-ri(Jacket), and trousers were also recovered, along with several items made of textiles, such as the cloth used to shroud and wrap the body. The costume artifacts recovered from Choi Kyung Sun's grave have several characteristics that distinguish them from other early 17th-century costume artifacts. Firstly, the body had a hairband made from horsehair. Secondly, the men's trousers were of the type worn before the Japanese Invasion(1592~1597). Thirdly, the style of the coats' sleeves, when compared with artifacts from other regions, was from an earlier era. Through these costume artifacts, it can be inferred that people who lived in the Gangwon Province, which was far away from Seoul, continuously wore outfits from before the Japanese Invasion, and trends spread slowly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1092-1101
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the size of ready-made clothing for elderly women and to evaluate their fit according to body type. Subjects were 33 women aged 60 and older, and they were classified by stature and drop index. The size of clothing which manufactured by four apparel brands were measured and compared with body size, and the size designation of four brands was compared. The questionnaire was carried out to subjects, and the size recognition and dissatisfaction with ready-made clothing were analyzed. The fitting test were carried out, and the subjects evaluated the fit of jackets and slacks of four brands. In the result of questionnaire, we found that subjects had little recognition about their clothing size. Subjects responded that they often felt dissatisfaction in their jacket length, sleeve length, shoulder width, bust girth, slacks, and waist girth. We found that each apparel brands had different sizing system and that even if the size designation of label was same, the clothing size was quite different. So the elderly women who didn't have so much knowledge about their own clothing size had a tendency to confuse with choosing proper clothing for themselves. In the wearer's evaluation, the significant difference in the degree of unsatisfaction were certified in several body parts according to wearer's body type. Especially, the degree of unsatisfaction in the case of subjects of having very small stature or very small hip was higher than other body types. From the result, we certified that it was necessary to consider the characteristics of each body type to increase the satisfaction of elderly women with clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.592-601
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• 2009

This study was conducted to find out the purchasing characteristics, the wearing practices and the preferring style of skirts. Also the comparison between recognized body type and actual body type for skirt was analyzed. The questionnaire was developed and administered to 179 women aged 20 to 59 in Busan. The women of 20th liked to buy skirts at the road shops and the internet shops but the 30th, 40th and 50th at the department stores and the discount stores. The main purpose of buying skirts was to coordinate with other clothes. The design of skirt was the most important factor of buying. The women of the 20th wore skirts without special purpose but the 30th, 40th and 50th wore those for social life. The women of the 20th liked to wear skirts with t-shirts and cardigan, the 30th with blouse and cardigan and 40~50th with blouse and jacket. As the age increased, the ratio of women who felt discomfort of skirts increased. Most of these women felt discomforts in the waist and abdomen part of skirt. The style of skirt that made up for the weak points in the body type was preferred. The preferred silhouettes of skirts were semi-tight and A-line. The preferred lengths of skirts were different from ages. Black was preferred color of skirts. There was a significant difference in recognized body type according to age groups. As the age increased, the ratio of women who thought themselves as thick waist type increased. Just only 43% women of total subjects recognized their body type accurately.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.130-136
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• 2008

The objective of this study was to date coffin woods of a grave of husband and wife, using the tree rings, which were excavated from Hoamdong, Chungju city in the central area of South Korea. The species of coffin woods was Japanese Red Pine (Pinus densiflora S. et Z.), one of the major conifers growing in Korea. The husband coffin was dated as A.D. 1628. Due to the absence of bark in the wife's coffin, the number of sapwood rings was estimated to obtain the cutting date. The cutting date of wife's one was estimated to be A.D. 1651${\pm}$10. The Jeogori Jacket for women, which was found in the husband coffin, indicates that the husband died earlier than the wife, as the tree-ring dates suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.575-584
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to develop the better fitting and more comfortable sleeve pattern for women's jacket, as the first step. Five types of existent sleeve pattern were collected, made and worn compared with the sensory evaluations method. The main results of this study were as follows 1. Sensory evaluation for appearance; According to the result of Duncan's multiple range test among the five sleeve patterns, TOJAIUN method sleeve was most satisfactory, and the next was the JUNGMYUNGJA method sleeve followed by NASAN, MOONWHA, ESMOD method sleeve. 2. Sensory evaluation for comfort; The result of Duncan's multiple range test showed that the ESMOD method sleeve was comfortable, and the next was the Japanese MOONWHA method sleeve followd by JUNGMYUNGJA, TOJAIVN, NASAN method sleeve. The result of 3-way ANOVA, main effect for 3 independent variables and interaction for pattern x part, posturers part showed significant difference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.8
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• pp.177-198
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• 2000

The major purpose of this study is to obtain the evident and visual data about the changes of Korean dress with a socio-cultural context through dress depicted in the Korean films since the 1960s. For this purpose, after were Korean socio-cultural background including the history of Korean films and mass fashion trends reviewed, total fifteen Korean films by ten year were selected on the basis of contemporaneity popularity, and fashionability, and analyzed with the data reviewed before. And the results can be summarized as follows : Dress in the Korean films of the 1960s shows sporty casual took influenced by western style, with the popularity of young fashion and youth film. The typical styles are sac dress and mini skirt fur women, and suit with American silhouette for men. Unisex mode including slim T-shirts and blue jeans with European silhouette supt appears mainly in the Korean films of the 1970s, with the change of sex roles and mass fashion trend. Dress in the Korean films of the 1980s is characterized by bold silhouette and decorative details. with the boom of erotic metro-drama and luxurious fashion trend, such as padded jacket, X silhouette ensemble, brig look coat for women, and American style suit for men. Dress in the Korean films of the 1990s shows the rapid cycle of fashion with the increase of casual wear, reflecting the popularity of romantic comedy film and various socio-cultural circumstances. As a result, the current of dress depleted in the Korean films since the 1960s is summarized as the cycle of fashion accelerated, the similarity between men's and women's wear, and the increase of sporty casual wear. Also, dress in the films reflects effectively the socio-cultural context related to fashion except for especially emphasizing characters in films.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of the types and the colors of men's casual wear, hairstyles, and the methods of stimulus manufacture on men's image perception. The subjects were 360 women from the metropolitan area of Seoul. The clothing types used for the study were a sweater and a jumper(casual jacket) with jean pants. The clothing colors were beige, indigo, and red. Two hairstyles, the short and the medium length hairs, were compared. Two types of stimuli, the photograph and the computer simulation picture, were used. The results of the factor analysis disclosed five dimensions on men's image: neatness, individuality, ability, activity, and sociability. In general, the photograph stimuli were evaluated more positively in activity, individuality, and sociability than the picture stimuli. The sweaters were perceived higher in ability, activity, and sociability than the jumpers. The Indigo color was evaluated as neat. The medium length hairstyles were perceived as neat and the short hairstyles were perceived as sociable. The jumpers were evaluated lower in individuality in the picture stimuli than in the photograph stimuli. The beige and indigo colors were evaluated to be neater in the picture stimuli than in the photograph. When using the picture stimuli, the men's image wearing the sweaters with the medium length hairstyles were evaluated lower in individuality. When using the photograph stimuli, the men's image wearing the sweater with the short hairstyles were evaluated higher in activity. Men's image wearing the indigo jumper and the beige sweater with medium length hairs were evaluated as high in neatness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.3
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• pp.51-62
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to examine the visual evaluation of image according to the style, hue, value, and chroma of the male clothing and the preference of image. A quasi-experimental method was used for this study. The first factorial design was the $2{\times}3{\times}2{\times}2$ (style of upper clothes ${\times}$ hue ${\times}$ chroma ${\times}$ color of trousers), and the second factorial design was the $2{\times}3{\times}2$ (style of upper clothes ${\times}$ value ${\times}$ color of trousers). The styles of upper clothes were a soutien collar casual jacket and a polo shirt. The subjects were 509 female college students living in Seoul. Factor analysis showed five image categories of men's clothing: initiative, dignity, politeness, activity, and mildness. Yellow was evaluated as having the highest initiative and activity. Blue was shown to have lower mildness than red and yellow. The high saturated chroma was perceived to be higher initiative and activity than low chroma. The shirts were evaluated higher in activity and mildness than the casual jackets were. The beige pants were perceived to be higher in dignity and mildness than the dark blue pants. The high chroma jackets were perceived to be higher in both initiative and activity than the low chroma jackets. The navy blue pants with the upper clothes in low chroma blue were perceived to be higher in politeness than with the upper clothes in low chroma red or yellow. The low value clothes were perceived to be higher in both initiative and dignity.