• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.31 no.4 s.54
• /
• pp.289-293
• /
• 2005

Nowadays there are many sun protection cosmetics including organic or inorganic UV filter as an active ingredient. Chemically stable inorganic sunsEreen agents, usually metal oxides, we widely employed in high SPF products. Titanium dioxide is one of the most frequently used inorganic UV filters. It has been used as pigments for a long period of cosmetic history. With the development of micronization techniques, it becomes possible to incorporate titanium dioxide in sunscreen formulations without whitening effect and it becomes an important research topic. However, there are very few works related to quantitations of titanium dioxide in sunscreen products. In this research, we analyzed amounts of titanium dioxide in sunscreen cosmetics by adapting redof titration, reduction of Ti(IV) to Ti(III) and reoxidation to Ti(IV). After calcification of other organic ingredients of cosmetics, titanium dioxide is dissolved by hot sulfuric acid. The dissolved Ti(IV) is reduced to the Ti(III) by adding aluminum metals. The reduced Ti(III) is titrated against a standard oxidizing agent, Fe(III) (ammonium iron(III) sulfate), with potassium thiocyanate as an indicator In order to test accuracy and applicability of the proposed method, we analyzed the amounts of titanium dioxide in four types of sunscreen cosmetics, such as cream, make-up base, foundation and powder, after adding known amounts of titanium dioxide $(1{\sim}25w/w%)$. The percent recoveries of the titanium dioxide in four types of formulations were in the range between 96 and 105%. We also analyzed 7 commercial cosmetic products labeled titanium dioxide as an ingredient and compared the results with those of obtained from ICP-AES (Inductively Coupled Plasma-Atomic Emission Spectrometry), one of the most powerful atomic analysis techniques. The results showed that the titrated amounts were well coincided with the analyzed amounts of titanium dioxide by ICP-AES. Although instrumental analytical methods, ICP-MS (Inductively Coupled Plasma-Mass Spectrometry) and ICP-AES, are the best for the analysis of titanium, it is hard to adopt because of their high prices for small cosmetic companies. It was found that the volumetric method presented here gat e quantitative and reliable results with routine lab-wares and chemicals.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.49 no.3
• /
• pp.231-245
• /
• 2023

In the cosmetics industry, it is important to develop new materials for functional cosmetics such as whitening, wrinkles, anti-oxidation, and anti-aging, as well as technology to increase absorption when applied to the skin. Therefore, in this study, we tried to optimize the nanoemulsion formulation by utilizing response surface methodology (RSM), an experimental design method. A nanoemulsion was prepared by a high-pressure emulsification method using Glabridin as an active ingredient, and finally, the optimized skin absorption rate of the nanoemulsion was evaluated. Nanoemulsions were prepared by varying the surfactant content, cholesterol content, oil content, polyol content, high-pressure homogenization pressure, and cycling number of high-pressure homogenization as RSM factors. Among them, surfactant content, oil content, high-pressure homogenization pressure, and cycling number of high-pressure homogenization, which are factors that have the greatest influence on particle size, were used as independent variables, and particle size and skin absorption rate of nanoemulsion were used as response variables. A total of 29 experiments were conducted at random, including 5 repetitions of the center point, and the particle size and skin absorption of the prepared nanoemulsion were measured. Based on the results, the formulation with the minimum particle size and maximum skin absorption was optimized, and the surfactant content of 5.0 wt%, oil content of 2.0 wt%, high-pressure homogenization pressure of 1,000 bar, and the cycling number of high-pressure homogenization of 4 pass were derived as the optimal conditions. As the physical properties of the nanoemulsion prepared under optimal conditions, the particle size was 111.6 ± 0.2 nm, the PDI was 0.247 ± 0.014, and the zeta potential was -56.7 ± 1.2 mV. The skin absorption rate of the nanoemulsion was compared with emulsion as a control. As a result of the nanoemulsion and general emulsion skin absorption test, the cumulative absorption of the nanoemulsion was 79.53 ± 0.23%, and the cumulative absorption of the emulsion as a control was 66.54 ± 1.45% after 24 h, which was 13% higher than the emulsion.

• Journal of Plant Biotechnology
• /
• v.45 no.2
• /
• pp.117-124
• /
• 2018

The imports of Centella asiatica L. Urban are increasing year-by-year due to the fact that its extract is a raw material used for skin wounds and in cosmetics. However, studies on the cultivation and identification of native C. asiatica species in Korea have been extremely rare. Therefore, this study was conducted in order to investigate the physiological and functional activity of Korean native C. asiatica plant cultivated in Hapcheon, Gyeongsangnam-do, Korea. As a result, the highest antibacterial and anti-inflammatory activities were examined with methanol extract while skin-whitening and wrinkle improvement were examined with water extract. Seven bacterium and one fungus were treated with 50% methanol extracts of C. asiatica and most of the bacterium showed similar or low levels of antibacterial activity compared to the control group of Omiza (Schisandra chinensis) extract, except for Streptococcus pyogenes, which showed higher antimicrobial activity than that of Omiza extract. However, neither C. asiatica and Omiza extracts showed antimicrobial activity against the fungus, C. albicans. The results of anti-inflammatory effect analyses with Raw 264.7 cells confirmed that the treatment of methanol extract reduced the level of NO by 50% or more compared to the control group. In addition, the water extract showed the highest reduction of melanin content of up to 20% more than the control group when examined with B16F10 cell line, indicating a significant skin-whitening effect. Furthermore, we were able to show the significant skin wrinkle improvement caused by C. asiatica extract with NHDF cell as an indicator, but strong cytotoxicity was also observed, suggesting that further studies are necessary.

• Journal of Life Science
• /
• v.27 no.9
• /
• pp.994-1002
• /
• 2017

This study was performed to evaluate the anti-oxidative, anti-inflammatory, anti-allergy, and whitening effects of Zizania latifolia ethanol extracts prepared from 5 different ethanol concentrations (10, 30, 50, 70, and 90%). As the ethanol concentration in the extraction solvent was increased, the radical scavenging activities also increased. The inhibitory activity of Z. latifolia ethanol extracts on nitric oxide (NO) production in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells tended to increase as the content of ethanol increased. The highest inhibitory activity was obtained with 70% ethanol extract. The antiallergy effects of Z. latifolia ethanol extracts were tested by measuring the release of ${\beta}-hexosaminidase$ in IgE-sensitized RBL-2H3 cells. The suppressive effect of Z. latifolia ethanol extracts increased in a dose-dependent manner as the proportion of ethanol increased, except for the 10% ethanol extract. Furthermore, the inhibitory effects of Z. latifolia ethanol extracts against melanin production in ${\alpha}-melanocyte$ stimulated hormone (MSH)-stimulated B16F0 cells increased as the ethanol ratio increased, and 70 and 90% ethanol extracts showed similar inhibitory activities to arbutin, a positive control, at $250{\mu}m$. The present study confirmed the efficacy of Z. latifolia ethanol extracts in various areas, demonstrating antioxidative, anti-inflammation, antiallergy, skin protective, and skin whitening effects, with no cytotoxicity. It could be used as a raw material in functional foods, as well as in cosmetics.

• Journal of Life Science
• /
• v.21 no.2
• /
• pp.279-285
• /
• 2011

The objective of the present study was to evaluate the skin whitening effect of the extracts of 3 herbs, Ligularia fischeri, Solidago virga-aurea and Aruncus dioicus, which were collected from Ullung island. Tyrosinase inhibition activities were 33% in pre-fermented extracts and 45% in post-fermented ones. When tyrosinase activities in B16F10 murine melanoma cells were tested, activities in pre- and post-fermented extracts were 41 and 56.5%, respectively. Thus, the post-fermented extracts might have greater skin whitening effects. The protein expression of MITF, TRP-1, TRP-2, and tyrosinase, which are all skin-whitening related transcription factors, showed that both pre- and post-fermented herbs inhibited protein biosynthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. Post-fermented herb extracts especially showed a greater decrease of protein expressions. The expression of MITF, a regulatory transcription factor, was also decreased by both extracts but was greater in the post-fermented ones. From the results, it can be concluded that the 3 herb extracts from Ullung island may inhibit melanin biosynthesis by the suppression of MITF activity in a signaling pathway. Results indicate that the post-fermented herbs tested in the present study had skin whitening activities and can be used as functional ingredients for food and cosmetic compositions.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
• /
• v.58 no.1
• /
• pp.31-38
• /
• 2015

The rhizomes of Anemarrhena asphodeloide was extracted with 100% ethanol and concentrated subfractions were separated with medium pressure liquid chromatography-based activity profiling. One compound was isolated from the subfraction 10 through the repeated preparative high performance liquid chromatography (prep-HPLC). According to physico-chemical and spectroscopic data including NMR and MS, the chemical structures of the compound was determined as nyasol (1). Nyasol was exhibited potent inhibitory activity for NO ($IC_{50}:12.5{\mu}g/mL$), tyrosinase ($IC_{50}:12.5{\mu}g/mL$), melanin contents ($IC_{50}:12.5{\mu}g/mL$), thymus and activation-regulated chemokine (TARC) production ($IC_{50}:6.25{\mu}g/mL$). As a result, nyasol has an excellent inflammation-dependent anti-whitening and TARC production activity. It could be used to a large range of functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.40 no.4
• /
• pp.403-412
• /
• 2014

To develop an effective skin whitening agent for cosmetics, we isolated cucurbitacin B from Cucumis sativus L. which has been used as traditional skin lighting regimen by the bioactivity-guided fractionation, and investigated the inhibitory effects of cucurbitacin B on melanogenesis. At a non-cytotoxic concentration, cucurbitacin B reduced melanin contents of B16F1 melanoma cells in a dose-dependent manner. Cucurbitacin B did not directly inhibit mushroom tyrosinase activity, but it inhibited intracellular tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner. Its inhibitory mechanism on melanin biosynthesis was further assessed, and we found that cucurbitacin B significantly decreased the protein level of tyrosinase, a major melanogenic enzymes and MITF, a master transcriptional factor of melanogenesis. In addition, cucurbitacin B increased the expression of WW domain-containing oxidoreductase (WWOX) which is known to function as tumor repressor and inhibits $Wnt/{\beta}$-catenin pathway. Collectively, these results suggest that cucuritacin B from C. sativus could be used as an active ingredient for skin whitening.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
• /
• v.41 no.9
• /
• pp.1211-1219
• /
• 2012

In this study, extracts from Caragana sinica flowers and leaves were tested for antioxidant and angiotensin converting enzyme inhibitory activities, along with xanthine oxidase, tyrosinase, elastase, and astringent effects. Total phenolic compounds of acetone extracts from Caragana sinica flowers and leaves were the highest at 3.42 and 2.98 mg/g, respectively, when various extraction solvents were used. Optimal conditions for extraction of phenolic compounds from Caragana sinica leaves and flowers were 70% ethanol for 18 hr. DPPH scavenging activities were the highest in 70% ethanol extracts of Caragana sinica. ABTS radical cation decolorization values of 70% ethanol extracts were higher than those 60% ethanol extracts at 74%. Antioxidant protection factor was 1.2 PF in 70% ethanol extracts from Caragana sinica flowers and leaves. TBARS was lower than that of control (0.54 ${\mu}M$) in all sections. Angiotensin converting enzyme inhibitory activity of Caragana sinica flower extract was 80~90% at a phenolic concentration of 0.2~1.0 mg/mL, whereas xanthin oxidase inhibitory activity of Caragana sinica leaf extract was higher than that of flower extract. Tyrosinase inhibitory activity, which is related to skin-whitening, was above 20%, whereas elastase inhibitory activity related to anti-wrinkle effect was above 50% at a phenolic concentration of 0.8 mg/mL. Astringent effects of Caragana sinica flower and leaf extracts were higher than tannic acid as a control at an equivalent concentration. This result suggests that extracts from Caragana sinica flowers and leaves are suitable as functional foods having anti-hypertension, anti-gout, and medicinal cosmetic activities, including whitening and anti-wrinkle effects.

• The Korea Journal of Herbology
• /
• v.27 no.3
• /
• pp.67-74
• /
• 2012

Objectives : The present study was designed to investigate effects of Ssanghwa-tang (Shu$\bar{a}$nghu$\bar{a}$-g$\bar{e}$ng) on oxidation/reduction reaction-related and aging-related enzymes $in$ $vitro$. Methods : We performed MTT assay, collagenase inhibition assay, elastase inhibition assay, tyrosinase inhibition assay, DPPH free radical scavenging assay, SOD-like activity and xanthine oxidase (XO) inhibition assay. Results : The 50% ethanol (EtOH) extract of Ssanghwa-tang (SHT) showed 55% inhibition of collagenase activity, and 42% inhibition of elastase activity at 1 mg/ml concentration. Also it's treatment showed 18% inhibition of tyrosinase activity, to relate whitening effect, at the same dose of 50% ethanol extract of SHT. Antioxidant activities were determined by DPPH radical scavenging, XO inhibiting activity and SOD-like activity. These scavenging, XO-inhibiting and SOD-like activities were measured in 80%, 75%, and 28% inhibitions, respectively, at a 1 mg/ml treated dose, compared to those of control. The inhibitory effects of 50% EtOH extract on aging and oxidation-related enzyme activities were higher than those of water extract and 95% EtOH extract. Conclusions : Taken together, our findings suggest that the SHT has potential and applicable benefits for development of cosmetics to have anti-aging (anti-wrinkle and whitening) and anti-oxidation functions.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.44 no.3
• /
• pp.219-229
• /
• 2018

The purpose of this study was to investigate the role of the Moringa oleifera (M. oleifera) extract as a cosmetic additive. The tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory effects showed 47% and 39% at $1,000{\mu}g/mL$ concentration, respectively. Also, the collagenase inhibition effect was 31% at $500{\mu}g/mL$ concentration. A cell viability test, measured on macrophage cell (RAW 264.7) and melanoma cell (B16F10) by ethanol extract of M. oleifera, showed 94.2% and 94.8% at $100{\mu}g/mL$ concentration, respectively. In order to confirm anti-inflammatory activity, we examined the inhibitory effects on the production of lipopolysaccharides (LPS)-induced NO in RAW 264.7 cells by Griess assay. As a result, the M. oleifera extract showed a concentration-dependent inhibition of NO production. The protein expression inhibitory effects of M. oleifera extract were measured by western blot at 25, 50, $100{\mu}g/mL$ concentration and the ${\beta}-actin$. Results showed that the expression inhibition rates of the iNOS, COX-2, MITF, TRP-1, TRP-2, tyrosinase protein were decreased by 85.8%, 57.5%, 80.7%, 30%, 29.9%, 23.6% at $100{\mu}g/mL$ concentration, respectively. It was concluded that M. oleifera extracts had the anti-inflammatory and whitening effects and thus could be applied for cosmetics as a natural ingredient.