• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.18 no.2
• /
• pp.216-224
• /
• 2016

Recently, the interest in a garment that accentuates a fit and slender body continues to be highly desirable. Customers frequently want to wear a slim designed jacket that fits well, reflecting the trends of being young and slim. Accordingly, this research collected information on brands with ready-to-wear slim fit tailored jackets that target female customers in their 30s. By identifying the jacket pattern design and production state by brand, and evaluating the appearance when wearing the jacket, I was able to draw up the following conclusions. First, the fit highlights many problems because of the difference between the model size of brands that targeted domestic women in their 30s and the standard somatotype of them. This can be solved by considering the somatotype of women in their 30s when choosing the models. Second, the relative simplicity of the pattern should allow a slim fit tailored jacket to be produced that fits the front, back and side well. This would lead to the development of a jacket that would fit better as well as allowing for ease of movement. Similar to this, the model size of domestic brands changes frequently and customers prefer the size of a slim model instead of the size suitable for a target's somatotype. This results in a limit on the levels of satisfaction regarding brand targets for body types. Accordingly, it is hoped that this research will become the standard data for the development of a slim fit tailored jacket that will fit women in their 30s well.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.2 no.1
• /
• pp.99-109
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the combination of tailored suit details through visual evaluation which helps compensating middle aged women＇s body defects for their more attractive fashion styles. The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test were analyzed using mean, paired t-test, general linear measure and Duncan＇s multiple raged test. The results of this study are as follows: 1) The middle aged woman wearing the opened flap pocket-jacket and slacks looks longer(p〈0.001) in lower part of her body and taller(P〈0.01) as a whole than when wearing others. And, opened jacket makes a middle aged woman be seen with less appeared abdomen(p〈0.01) than that wearing others. 2) The middle aged woman wearing the opened flap pocket-jacket and skirt looks more elegant(p〈0.001), more graceful(p〈0.001), and a bit more balanced(p〈0.05) than that wearing the opened flap pocket-jacket and slacks suits. According to situation(TPO). the middle aged women wearing the opened flap pocket-jacket, and slacks or skirt looks more effective the visual effect in combination of details on Tailored suits. (Korean J of Human Ecology 2(1) : 99-109, 1999)

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.182-199
• /
• 2015

This research aims to design a new style jacket by developing patterns with dart manipulation, to achieve a tailored jacket which has been familiar to us, but with a more creative design. Tailored jackets has been widely worn both by women and men, and used to create various fashion styles. Generally the classic design with a basic lapel and collar is worn the most, and this shows demonstrates an importance of its design. Giacomo Manzu's work of relief art inspired for a creative design of tailored jackets. As a result of the analysis on the visual properties of the relief sculptures, it was found that an omissions of line for cubic effect and dramatized expression give an illusion effect. Based on the illusion effect shown in the case of a relief design, it was patterned and designed with dart manipulation. Through dart manipulation, the shape of a lapel was designed to meet the rear collar, which corresponds to a background plane, by making it like a sculpture at the front background pattern. Then it was found through dart manipulation could be extensively applied for various designs, as well as used to generate massing. Hopefully this creative pattern and design development would be helpful not only in diversification of consumer's needs, but also in the educational field for pattern and development of the fashion design industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.23 no.4
• /
• pp.569-580
• /
• 2015

The recent fashion market failed to satisfy the needs of female customers in their 30s who are demanding a slim jacket that makes the wearer look young and slim. Accordingly, the slim-fit jackets of domestic brands targeting the women in their 30s were collected to conduct look and movement fitting evaluations based on the standard somatotype, and a slim-fit tailored jacket prototype was developed based on the present findings. This research aims to increase the satisfaction level of the slim-fit jacket customers reflecting a variety of somatotypes of women in their 30s. The research process was developing jacket patterns fully reflecting the properties in terms of extra space and design lines for different somatotypes of women in their 30s based on the jacket pattern formulated through the advanced research, and then suggesting pattern design methods for the different somatotypes. In this sense, this research attempted to identify the problems concerning the slim-fit tailored jacket fitting for different somatotypes of women in their 30s. The main aim was to suggest ways to improve the customers' satisfaction level regarding the fit, and enable the manufacturers to produce a well-fitting jacket reflecting the peculiarities of each somatotype.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.5
• /
• pp.99-112
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this study is to examine the higher value-added characteristics of tailored jacket designs, which are major items of French luxury brands, in an effort to raise the competitiveness of domestic fashion designs. The characteristics of the jacket designs from the 1940s to the 1970s, the golden age of Haute Couture, were examined. Based on this, the characteristics of the higher value-added expressions of the luxury brands were established by analyzing the tailored jacket designs that appeared in the Paris collection after 2010. The results are as follows: the characteristics were categorized into 'traditional value expression,' 'conceptual value expression,' 'retro value expression,' and 'creative value expression.' Traditional value was expressed as the representation of the styles inherent to the golden age of the Haute Couture houses, and the status of the luxury brands with history was represented by equally arranging the size and characteristics of the elements of the designs related to jacket silhouette. Conceptual value was reestablished as contemporary identity into which the traditional ideology of the houses and the present designers' sentiments were grafted by developing the designs with the theme containing the identity of the past Haute Couture houses. Retro value was utilized as the strategy to differentiate the luxury brands with long history from contemporary products. Creative value was expressed as tailored jackets with new concepts of shape variation and usage conversion by combining creative sentiments with the high quality techniques of Haute Couture and appears to be able to create a new consumption market of luxury brands in the global fashion market.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.21 no.5
• /
• pp.552-563
• /
• 2019

Jackets are regarded as an element used to judge ideas and fashion trends for the age in which they are presented. This article analyzed recent tailored jacket fashion trends by categorizing jackets according to design elements. For this, design elements of tailored jackets were categorized into silhouette, collar and lapel, shoulder and sleeve, and decorative elements. We collected and categorized the changes of 491 jackets that have appeared in collections over the past 5 years. The results showed shoulder and sleeve changes (36.25%), silhouette changes (33.4%), lapel and color changes (12.6%), decorative element changes (11.2%), and no changes (6.5%). Jacket forms with changed shoulders and sleeves appeared as styles that have laterally or vertically expanded the shoulder and arm hole with the production of various sleeve forms. Silhouette changes were expressed through forms such as exaggerated silhouettes of oversized-clothing, silhouettes made through cutting or layering, and the polarization of length. Forms with a changed collar and lapel appeared with polarization trends in which lapels dramatically grow larger or narrower, diverse frontal adjustments using no-collar designs, and the utilization of shawl-collars; in addition, forms with changed decorative elements were expressed with layered decorations such as pockets or collar add-ons, adjustment changes using buttons, ribbons or zippers, and various trimmings. The analysis results show that modern female tailored jackets are being made to realize an exaggerated physical beauty of shoulder, sleeve and torsos to maximize decorative effects through new attempts in design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.17 no.3
• /
• pp.183-196
• /
• 2015

This study aims to develop sleeve pattern of tailored jacket which shows seamlessly beauty of females in their twenties who have relatively smaller change of body compared people of other ages and has outstanding functional operation. So we selected a pattern of manufacturer who received highest score after evaluating wearing condition of three types of jacket in the industry, whose targets are career women in their twenties and then tested its appearance and functional operation of 6 experimental jackets with armhole depth of B/4 and B/4-1(cm) along with sleeve cap height of A.H/3, A.H/3+1, A.H/3+2. As a result, the pattern which has good result of external appearance evaluation were sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3+2 as well as sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3+1. The pattern of good result for movement adaptation were sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3 as well as sleeve with armhole depth of B/4 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3. So we could find that the larger is the armhole depth and height of sleeve, the better influence on adaptability of jacket it makes and that the smaller is the armhole depth and height of sleeve, the better influence on movement adaptability of jacket it makes. It has been proved that armhole depth of tailored jacket of females in their twenties doesn't affect significantly on its appearance when designing it but it makes good influence on movement adaptability when experimental clothing has armhole depth of B/4-1and that sleeve cap height of A.H/3 that is 1cm shorter than A.H/3+1 which is used in industry makes good influence on appearance and functional operation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.5 no.4
• /
• pp.159-165
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study was to develop Semantic Differential Scales with Tailored Jacket. Sixteen slides were made from selected Jacket which were representatives of four types of Jackets. The slides were shown to college students and graduate school students. The students were asked to describe their responses to each slide in Korean adjectives. In order to extract the representative and the frequency each adjective was calculated. As a results, 35 adjectives-elegant, graceful, neat, mature, slim, formal, natural, brisk, comfortable, etc-were selected. Therefore the Semantic Differential Scales composed of 35 pairs adjectives were developed.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.16 no.1
• /
• pp.137-143
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to prove the work efficiency of PDS by measuring the work time on the process of pattern making of woman's tailored jacket. Also compared to the manual work time, PDS work efficiency is estimated according to experience difference. The YUKA CAD system was used. Through analysis of PDS Process, work time was measured by stop watch. Also the appearance of the 2 jackets was evaluated by a pool of evaluators consisted of graduate students and experienced professional modelist. The results were as follows: The work efficiency of PDS is higher than the work efficiency of manual work. There were significant differences of work time between work types in the expert and inexpert group. A study compared the work efficiency by PDS work type with those by manual work type according to experience difference and found that the work efficiency by PDS in the expert group was 25.3%, in the inexpert group was 35%. There were significant differences of work time between experience groups in PDS work, the work efficiency of expert group to inexpert group in the total pattern making time by PDS was 36.7%. There were no significant differences of appearance of tailored jacket between work types.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.11 no.1
• /
• pp.112-120
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to develop Andongpo apparel pattern design connected with the Apparel CAD system. It includes pattern making, grading, marking program. In this study, it will be able to make apparel pattern quickly and accurately by using Apparel CAD system. The results were as following : Computerization of the pattern making process is expected to provide higher accuracy and efficiency in apparel pattern making for narrow and expensive Andongpo. ESMOD pattern making method was selected as basic pattern. Tailored jacket patterns were developed for Andongpo. Refer to and . The jacket patterns developed is automatically depicted by inputting consumer's body size. Tailored jacket patterns for Andongpo were marked by using marking program in Apparel CAD system. The efficiency of marking appeared of 70% or more in Andongpo jacket patterns. This results is showed it has an effect on narrow and expensive Andongpo. 3tailored jacket patterns will be able to make a simulation by 3D Apparel CAD system. The results of this study is expected to provide higher consumer's satisfaction and internet brand launching. In addition, encouraging majority of the young to participate in using CAD program for Andongpo is regarded as beneficial for the reinforcement of competitiveness of traditional clothing business.